1, garden selection

Wine grapes have strong adaptability to soil, but the most suitable growth is rich in organic matter, loose and fertile, neutral sandy loam and loam.

Sunny slopes shall be selected for garden construction in mountainous areas, and the slope shall not exceed 25 degrees, and terraces shall be built above 10 degrees.

Good irrigation and drainage conditions are needed in both mountainous areas and plains, and the groundwater level is below 1 meter. Low-lying, waterlogging and saline-alkali are strictly prohibited. You should choose to build a garden above 5 meters above sea level.

2. Landscape planning and design

(1) Row direction and frame type of planting

Wine grapes should be cultivated in the north and south plains and in the mountains on the contour lines.

(2) Determination of plant spacing

The planting row spacing is 2.5m, the plant spacing is 0.5m-0.55m, and 7500 -7950 plants (500 -530 plants per mu) are planted in each project.

(3) Roads and shelterbelts

If the area of the vineyard is large, a main road with a width of 6 -7 meters should be set up, which runs through the whole garden. A branch road with a width of 3 meters is set in the community. Field operation road, 2 meters wide. Road design should be convenient for field work.

Vineyards are small or scattered, and only field roads are set up.

The shelter forest in the vineyard is a mixture of poplar, elm, Amorpha fruticosa and other trees and shrubs.

(4) Drainage and irrigation channels

The drainage and irrigation system planning of vineyards should be combined with roads. There is a three-stage irrigation system on one side of the road for irrigation, including main irrigation system, branch irrigation system and capillary irrigation system (planting ditch). The main methods are canal irrigation, drip irrigation and pipe irrigation. Dig a drainage ditch on the other side of the road (main road), especially in places with high groundwater level and low terrain. The drainage system must be unobstructed. It is best to connect the plains with rivers, and the mountainous areas with reservoirs or reservoirs for irrigation in case of drought.

(5) residence and workplace

Houses and workshops are set up in the center of the vineyard, with convenient transportation and convenient field work.

3. Garden preparation before planting

(1) Land preparation and soil improvement

Before planting, dig deep into the garden with a rotary tiller to remove impurities and level the land. Deep ploughing and deep planing in mountainous areas, the active soil layer is more than 60 cm, and organic fertilizer is added; Pay attention to choosing gentle slope land or flat land when building gardens in plain. Pay attention to soil and water conservation and soil improvement. Sandy land should be mixed with clay, loam and organic fertilizer, and clay land should be mixed with sand and organic fertilizer to improve soil.

(2) Digging planting ditches

Dig planting ditches along the line, one every 2.5 meters. The depth and width of the trench should reach 60 cm- 100 cm. When digging ditches, the topsoil and subsoil should be separated.

(3) Fertilizer and exotic soil

Apply 3-5 cubic meters of high-quality farmyard manure every 666.7 square meters. Fertilizer is human manure, manure or livestock manure, which is used after decomposition. In order to improve soil structure and increase organic matter, as many crop straws as possible are filled in the ditch. Apply diammonium phosphate or potassium sulfate compound fertilizer 15 kg -25 kg as base fertilizer every 666.7 square meters. The sand turned into fertile exotic soil, and the sticky texture was mixed with sand.

(4) Backfilling with soil and fertilizer

Topsoil and straw are mixed and filled at the bottom of the ditch, and crushed straw, manure and topsoil are evenly mixed and filled in the middle and upper part of the ditch. When backfilling to the ground elevation 15 cm -20 cm, chemical fertilizer can be sprayed in the ditch, and the topsoil of about 20 cm can be covered on it to make it flush with the ground.

(5) water and cover with plastic film.

After the planting ditch is backfilled, the ridges on both sides of the ditch can be watered, soaked and raked. After brewing, the planting ditch surface should be lower than the original plane 10 cm. Spraying herbicides on planting ditches before film mulching, the common variety is dimethoate. The dosage should be strictly controlled according to the pure area and instructions of planting ditch. After harrowing, cover the planting ditch with plastic film to increase temperature and keep moisture. The covered plastic film was removed from the end of June to the beginning of July.

4, seedling preparation

Green-leaf seedlings in nutrient pots are fast-growing seedlings cultivated in the same year, with a height of more than 10 cm and 4-5 functional leaves.

One-year-old seedlings are cuttings and grafted seedlings cultivated last year, which require developed roots, more than 6 lateral roots, more than 0.5 cm in diameter and more than 3 complete buds.

5. Planting period

It is suitable for green leaf seedlings in nutrition pots in early May; It is advisable to sprout in early April in a year.

6. Planting method

(1) Green-leaf seedling in nutrition bowl

When planting, use a soil sampler to take soil and punch holes according to the planting point, take down the nutrition bowl, put the seedlings with soil into the hole, fill some soil around them and water them.

Don't touch the branches and leaves of the seedlings when planting. The roots should be closely connected with the soil, and the bottom should not be "suspended". In addition, deep planting and shallow burying are needed, that is, after the planting ditch is backfilled, the seedlings are planted in the ditch 10 cm below the ground, and the soil cover is flush with the soil surface of the original nutrition bowl of the seedlings. When the new buds of seedlings grow to 30 cm -50 cm high, the soil is buried flush with the ground.

(2) One-year seedling production

Dig a hole in the planting ditch for planting. The size of the pit depends on the length of the seedling root system. If it is too long, a section can be cut off properly, so that the root system can be fully extended when planting, closely connected with the soil, and watered in time after planting. We should also adopt the method of deep planting and shallow burial.

7. Frames and frame materials

(1) rack

Single fence frame: The frame is 2m high, and a column is erected every 6-8m in rows, and a lead wire is pulled on the column every 40-60cm. The two ends of the row are reinforced with falling stones or pillars.

Double fence frame: The frame is 2m high, and two columns are erected at intervals of 6m-8m in each row. The lower ends of the two columns are 50cm-60cm apart and the upper ends are 80cm- 100cm apart. Grape seedlings live in the middle of two rows of columns, and the two rows of columns are pulled by lead wires every 50cm to form a "V" shape or rows of columns on the whole frame surface, and the lead wires are spaced from the ground. Pull the lead in the forward direction at both ends of the cross arm.

(2) Scaffolding

Columns: Commonly used columns are cement columns and stone columns. The thickness and width of the cement column are 12× 12 cm, and the height is 2.4 cm.

M -2.5 meters. The stone pillar can be a square stone pillar of 10 cm-15 cm with a height of 2.4m-2.5m..

Pull wire: lead wire 12 is commonly used.

Cross arm: The main materials are wood, bamboo and metal.

Rockfall: Reinforce the pillar with broken stone strips and stones buried in the ground.

Second, the management of soil, fertilizer and water.

1, soil management

(1) deep turn

The whole garden is deeply ploughed, and in late autumn, the vineyards are generally 20 cm -30 cm deep between rows, which can not only add deep ploughing layers to improve the soil, but also turn weed seeds, germs and eggs to the lower layer. Interlaced deep turn, ditching 40 cm -60 cm away from plants. Young gardens are 40 cm -50 cm deep, adult gardens are 50 cm -60 cm deep, and ditches are 40 cm -70 cm wide. After turning over one line after another, the whole park can be completed in a few years. In autumn, deep tillage combined with base fertilizer, sloping land, sandy land and low-lying clay land combined with deep tillage of exotic soil (sand mixed with clay or clay mixed with sand) can improve the soil.

(2) Pruning trees

Trees should be pruned in time after they are unearthed and put on shelves. The size of the tree should be expanded year by year with the increase of the age of the tree, and the width of the mature tree should be 2 -2.5 meters. Build soil ridges on both sides of the tree, with the height of 10 cm-15 cm.

(3) covering with plastic film

In order to increase temperature and protect soil moisture, the vines were covered with plastic film in early spring and removed in early July.

(4) intertillage weeding

Weeding between rows of vineyards is done manually during the growing season, that is, from May to September. The intertillage depth is 5 cm-10 cm, 4 -8 times a year. Especially after watering or raining, intertillage in time.

Step 2 apply fertilizer

(1) Fertilization type

Organic fertilizer is mainly used as base fertilizer; Inorganic fertilizer is mainly used for topdressing; Combined application of bacterial fertilizer and biological fertilizer.

(2) applying base fertilizer

First, the fertilization time

It is applied in the middle and late September of the first year after planting.

Fruit trees are planted immediately after harvest. That is, late September-65438+1late October.

Ⅱ. Fertilization amount and types

The vineyards planted in that year should be applied with 3 -5 cubic meters of high-quality organic fertilizer every 666.7㎡.

In the second year, it will be appropriately improved on the basis of the first year.

After the third year, more than 5,000 kilograms of high-quality organic fertilizer was applied in 666.7㎡, and 3 kilograms to 5 kilograms of calcium superphosphate or 2 kilograms to 4 kilograms of quaternary compound fertilizer were added per kilogram of kloc-0/00.

(3) Fertilization method

The base fertilizer is mainly based on expanding holes and deep ploughing, and furrow application is adopted.

In the first year, a strip ditch with a depth of 40 cm -60 cm was dug along the edge of the planting ditch, and the decomposed farm manure, straw, calcium superphosphate (or four elements) and the like were evenly mixed with the topsoil and filled in the ditch.

The next year, the same method was used on the other side of the planting ditch.

According to this method, alternate fertilization is carried out year by year.

(4) Topdressing

ⅰ. 1-2-year-old sapling

Topdressing in the year of planting requires appropriate shallow application, usually 4 -5 times a year. The principle of topdressing is to promote early and control late, that is, nitrogen fertilizer is mainly used to promote vigorous growth of plants in the early stage, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizer are mainly used to control vigorous growth and promote branch maturity in the later stage.

Refer to the following methods.

Top dressing for the first time, after the slow seedling stage, drill 3 -4 holes 5cm- 10cm away from the plant. Top dressing each plant with 25g urea and covering it with soil.

Top dressing for the second time, after the first top dressing 15 days, 20 cm away from the plant, dig 3 -4 pits with a depth of 5 cm-10 cm. Top dressing each plant with 25g urea and covering it with soil.

Topdressing for the third time, after the second topdressing 15 days, 25 cm away from the plants, digging deep ditches 10 cm (plastic film can be removed at this time), applying 30 g -50 g diammonium phosphate to each plant, and then covering the soil.

Topdressing for the fourth time: topdressing 30g-50g diammonium phosphate at the other side of the plant about 25cm on the 5th day after the third topdressing, and covering the soil after application.

The fifth topdressing, after the fourth topdressing 15 days, dig two semi-circular ditches with a depth of 10 cm-15 cm at a distance of 30 cm from the plant, and apply 25 g of potassium sulfate and 50 g of diammonium phosphate or potassium sulfate compound fertilizer to each plant, and then cover the soil.

In the middle and late growth period, furrows can be interspersed, and human manure or livestock manure can be scattered in the planting ditches.

ⅱ. Fruit trees

Topdressing according to the young tree method, topdressing five times a year, and the topdressing amount depends on the yield, that is, topdressing every time per 100 kg 1.2 kg-1.5 kg compound fertilizer.

(5) Topdressing outside the roots

That is, spraying fertilizer on the leaves for 4 -5 times during the growth period can be combined with spraying pesticides at the same time.

The suitable types and concentrations of fertilizers are urea 1%, potassium dihydrogen phosphate 0.3%, calcium superphosphate 0.2%, potassium sulfate 0.05%, plant ash 2-4%, zinc sulfate 0. 1-0.2%, borax 0. 1-0.3% and magnesium sulfate 0.05%. Among them, calcium superphosphate and plant ash should be soaked 1 -2 days before spraying, and clear liquid should be taken for later use.

Before flowering, boron and nitrogen fertilizer are the main fertilizers, followed by phosphorus, potassium, mirror and magnesium fertilizer, and phosphorus and potassium are the main fertilizers from fruit setting to berry maturity.

3. Drainage and irrigation

(1) irrigation

Planting as a young tree is combined with topdressing and watering.

Results According to the climate and rainfall, timely irrigation mainly includes: water for accelerating germination, and water for accelerating germination after grapes are unearthed and put on shelves. This irrigation can be combined with topdressing. Pay attention to the cold and rainy weather in spring.

Water before flowering, combined with topdressing irrigation 5 -7 days before flowering. 3 -4 days after fertilization, intertillage and hoeing will keep moisture and raise temperature.

Combined topdressing and irrigation from 10 day to 15 day after flowering.

Before the berries grow to the first color, water them properly according to the weather and rainfall. Water for urging fruit should be watered frequently and less, and the ground will be wet. Generally do not water after coloring, unless it is particularly dry.

Water the fruit after harvest, and water it once in combination with fertilization.

Freeze the water, fill it once before catching a cold, and bury it when the surface is slightly dry after the water permeates.

(2) Drainage

Drainage in time after rain, no water.

Third, shaping and pruning

1, plastic surgery

The row spacing of wine grapes is 0.5 m× 2.5 m, and it is cultivated in hedgerow, which is suitable for fan-shaped or dragon-shaped shaping: fan-shaped shaping can be divided into small fan-shaped, medium fan-shaped and dragon-shaped shaping, and plastic shaping can be divided into two dragons and three dragons; Fan-shaped and dragon-shaped mixed molding can also be applied to production. The following introduces the shaping method of small fan.

(1) plastic surgery in the first year

When the shoots of green leaf seedlings and seed strips with callus grow to more than 5 cm in the same year after planting, pinch off the top. Some secondary buds germinated. When the length of the secondary branches is more than 5 cm, 2 -3 secondary branches which are robust and close to the ground are selected for each plant as the main branches of the plant, and other secondary branches are erased.

One-year-old seedlings should be smeared in time from the time they germinate after sowing, leaving 3 -4 strong buds for the first time. When the new shoots grow to about 10 cm, the second shoot fixing is carried out, and 2 -3 new shoots are left per plant.

After the remaining new shoots grow to 40 cm, they can be framed in time. Frames can be buried directly with permanent pillars according to standards. Pull the first lead wire 30 cm from the ground (50 cm after the second year), and then pull the second lead wire after the new buds grow for a period of time, with a spacing of 50 cm. Tie the main buds evenly on two curved frames to keep the new buds growing upright.

When the main tip is 70 cm -80 cm high, the first coring will be carried out, and the latest coring time will be in late July.

The secondary branches grown after the core removal of the main branches are completely erased below 60 cm from the ground. There are 65,438+0 leaves in the upper secondary branch, 3 -5 leaves are reserved for the second coring, and 65,438+0 leaves are reserved for the other secondary branches for repeated coring. After coring, send out the top secondary branch for the second time, leaving only 1 top branch and 3-4 leaves for repeated coring. When cutting in winter, the thickness of cutting mouth should be above 0.7 cm, and the cutting length is generally 50 cm -60 cm. You can cut 60 cm -70 cm thick vines, 20 cm -30 cm thin vines and 2 -3 buds too thin vines.

(2) Plastic surgery in the second year

After the grapes are unearthed, they should be tied and put on the shelves in time. Based on single plant, fully consider the density of branches and vines among plants, so that the branches and vines are evenly distributed on the shelf surface.

In principle, all the buds below 30 cm of the main vine should be smoothed, but considering the high yield in two years, the inflorescence buds should be properly selected. Leave 2 -3 robust buds on the first main vine, and then remove the rest.

The extended tip of the main vine is cored according to the length. According to the results of growth potential, the length of the extended shoot can be 80 cm, and the vertical growth can be extended to 100 cm. Other fruiting branches leave 6-9 leaves above the inflorescence for coring, and the coring time starts from one week before flowering to the end of flowering.

As a result, only the top branches are left on the extended branches and secondary branches, and all other secondary branches are erased, leaving 2-3 leaves for repeated coring.

When cutting in winter, the cutting of extended branches is mainly based on the cutting length of last year and the growth potential of that year. Cut it short last year, and cut it 60 cm-70 cm when it was growing strongly; It was cut for a long time last year, but in that year, it was necessary to cut 50 cm to 60 cm; It was cut for a long time last year, but the annual growth potential was weak, so it should be cut by 40 cm -50 cm. Other tips cut 3-4 short buds. The thickness of the incision should be above 0.7 cm.

(3) plastic surgery in the third year

The methods of putting on shelves, smearing buds, removing secondary buds and removing cores are basically the same as those of the previous year. Each bearing branch leaves 1-3 new shoots as bearing branches, and the main branch of the preparatory branch extends upward to more than three leads, and each bearing branch group evenly occupies the frame surface, basically forming a tree shape.

Take 2 -3 main vines as the main body, form fruiting branches in 2-3 years, and complete small fan-shaped shaping. With the growth of the tree and the increase of the age of the tree, the preparatory branches are cultivated year by year, the main vines are replaced in turn, and the long heads of the main branches are reduced and trimmed to keep the tree strong. After 4 -5 years, if the plant is too dense, it can be thinned and transformed into a middle fan shape to maintain the longest growth period and high quality and high yield.

prune

(1) summer pruning

First, bud smearing, re-shearing and bud fixing

Wipe the bud, from germination to leaf spreading. Erasing the hidden buds, deformed buds, weak buds, secondary buds, buds with improper position or bad direction, weak buds in heavy buds or triple buds at the base of bearing mother branches are mostly strong buds with inflorescences after wiping buds, so that new shoots can grow healthily.

Re-cuttage: When the new shoots grow to 10 cm, the bleeding period has passed, so it is necessary to re-cuttage with fixed branches. Branches with too long cuttings in winter and weak top development should be retracted to the fruiting place. Shrink the eye of the bud in the middle of the branch to the strong bud, sparse and dense branches and vines, and cut off the dead pile.

Fixed branches, new branches about 20 cm -30 cm long, when there are 5-6 leaves. At this time, the growth of fruiting branches, developing branches, new branches and inflorescences can already be distinguished. Remove weak branches and over-strong branches, clustered branches, no top branches and densely developed branches, so that the remaining branches can grow neatly and evenly. The number of buds left by common varieties after this shoot fixing is roughly equivalent to the predetermined number of buds. When the new buds grow to about 40 cm, the remaining buds can be adjusted again to reach the predetermined number of remaining buds.

The main basis for determining the amount of shoots left is the growth and fruiting habits of varieties, the strength of trees, the level of cultivation management and the yield over the years (mainly last year). The yield per 666.7m2 is1500kg, and each plant is 15-17.

ⅱ. Choose the heart

Results Pick the tip from one week before flowering to the end of flowering, and leave 6 -9 leaves above the inflorescence.

Core-taking for developing branches: core-taking for main spreading branches is 70 cm -80 cm, and core-taking for other developing branches is 40 cm -50 cm.

Ⅲ. Secondary tip treatment

After the main shoot is enucleated, 1 -2 auxiliary shoots and 3-5 leaves can be left at the top of the main shoot. Only 2-3 leaves are left at the top of the secondary auxiliary shoot, and 1-2 leaves are left for repeated coring or thinning.

Generally, there are no secondary branches above the inflorescence, but there are two treatments for the secondary branches above the inflorescence: one is to keep 1-2 leaves for repeated coring, and the other is to remove all secondary branches. The secondary branch leaves the main branch 1-2 leaves, and the winter buds are full, which has a good effect on yield and quality, but it is easy to close the branch because of too much labor and improper management. On the contrary, all the secondary branches are removed, which saves labor and is easy to manage, but the fruit ripens late and the quality is not as good as the former. When pruning, it should be used flexibly according to the tree potential and yield.

Ⅳ. Remove tendrils and smooth ears.

Remove tendrils in time. When the new shoots are thin and the load is too large, some inflorescences should be properly picked before flowering, and the shoots should be tied at the beginning of June to make the ears droop naturally.

ⅴ. Cut off the top and pick the old leaves.

Before coloring the fruit, cut off the new shoots that are too dense on the shelf surface, remove some old leaves under the shelf and some old leaves near the fruit ear, and improve the ventilation and light transmission conditions. But it is not advisable to cut the top and pick the leaves too early.

ⅵ. Tie vines

Tie old vines: in the cold-proof area, tie vines in time after the grape plants are unearthed, and make the branches and vines evenly distributed on the shelves according to the plastic requirements.

Binding new shoots: Generally, new shoots begin to grow to 20 cm -30 cm, and the shelf surface should be continuously bound with the extension of new shoots throughout the growth period. According to the requirements of plastic surgery, the protruding shoots should be bound vertically, and when the growth potential is weak and the shelf surface is full, they should be bound at an appropriate inclination. Other new branches can be "arched" and the secondary branches can not be tied.

When tying the tip, put the new tip in the middle of the strap material, leaving a gap to make the strap buckle into a dead button, so that the new tip has enough growth space, and then firmly tie it to the lead wire so that it cannot move back and forth. The commonly used buckles are mostly "∞" or pig's trotters. Binding materials are iris, straw and so on.

(2) Pruning in winter should be carried out after defoliation and before soil freezing.

ⅰ. Trim length

In production, according to the number of buds left, there are four pruning lengths: extremely short branches (below 2 buds), short branches (2-4 buds), middle branches (5-7 buds) and long branches (above 8 buds).

For the extended branches used to enlarge the tree, the middle and long shoots are pruned in multiple rows, and the short shoots are pruned to fix the fruiting parts and prevent them from rising or moving out quickly. Fan-shaped pruning mostly adopts mixed pruning of long, medium and short tips. At the same time, the length of cutting should be determined according to the thickness of branches. Generally, thicker branches can be cut long. On the contrary, it is shortened or thinned. Thinning should be carried out on branches that are too dense, too fine, damaged by diseases and insect pests or immature.

Ⅱ. Number of branches left by pruning in winter

The yield per 666.7 m2 1500 kg, and the amount of cuttings per plant is 7 -8.

Ⅲ. Updating and pruning

Regeneration of fruiting mother branch

Use the following methods to update the bare branches and vines on the lower part.

Double-branch regeneration: Leave a fixed bearing branch group on the main vine at an upward interval (20-30 cm) from the base. When pruning in winter, two mature branches close to the old vine are left in each fruiting branch group, the upper branch is properly left with (3-6 buds) as the fruiting mother branch, the lower branch is shortened, and 1-3 buds are left as the spare branch; When cutting in the winter of the following year, the upper fruiting branch of the fruiting fruit is thinned, and two mature branches close to the old vine are selected from the lower preparatory branches. The top branch will be cut with 3-6 buds as fruiting branches, and the lower branch will be cut with 1-3 buds as reserve branches, which will be updated repeatedly every year.

Single-branch regeneration: for each bearing branch group, one branch of the current year near the base is selected, and 2-4 buds are reserved for short-branch pruning, and other branches are thinned. Short cut branches are the fruiting mother branches and preparatory branches in the second year, which are combined into one. In the second year, 65,438+0-2 fruiting branches were selected from the sprouted new shoots. When cutting in winter, 2-3 buds are cut from the branches near the main vines, and other branches are thinned and updated every year.

Turn around and change your head

If the main spreading branches grow weakly or exceed the top of the frame, they should be retracted and trimmed, and the new branches that grow vigorously behind them should be used as extension branches, and the original extension branches should be cut off.

Remove the old, weak and diseased vines. According to the growth of the main vines, select the branches with suitable base parts, vigorous growth or budding to cultivate new main vines.

Fourth, pest control.

1, strengthen cultivation management to reduce the source of disease and enhance the tree potential.

(1) thoroughly remove litter, diseased fruit, old skin, warped skin, weeds, etc. Concentrate on burning or burying in the garden to reduce the source of pests and diseases.

(2) Timely and reasonably establish seedlings, fix shoots, remove secondary branches, remove stones and tie vines to improve the ventilation and light transmission conditions of orchards.

(3) Reasonable load

(4) Irrigation after rain, timely intertillage and weeding, and pay attention to drainage and waterlogging prevention in low-lying gardens.

(5) Increase the application of organic fertilizer, timely topdressing, and pay attention to the coordinated application of various elements.

(6) Scrape the epidermis of mature trees in early spring to eliminate overwintering pests and diseases.

2. Chemical control

(1) hibernation period

Spray 3-5 Baume's ancient sulfur mixture to prevent cold after winter shearing and before taking off the shelf.

Before being put on shelves in the second year after being unearthed, spray 5 waves of smectite sulfur mixture or 3 waves of smectite sulfur mixture with 200 times of sodium pentachlorophenol.

(2) Growth period

I. Pest control

Pest control is based on prevention, combining prevention with control. In the growing period, from mid-May, spraying Bordeaux mixture 1 time every 10 day. At the early stage of growth (before mid-July), 200-240 times of Bordeaux lime can be sprayed. Spraying the same amount of Bordeaux mixture with lime 160-200 times in the late growth stage. Spraying cloth more than 6 times a year can effectively control the occurrence of various diseases of wine grapes. If diseases appear in the field, other fungicides should be sprayed in time to control the diseases. Symptoms will be found in time during the growth period and prevented as soon as possible.

Grape black bean disease: the disease occurs when the new shoots begin to grow after germination, and the peak period is before flowering. 800 times of 50% carbendazim wettable powder or 600 times of 50% carbendazim wettable powder can be sprayed during the onset period.

Grape gray mold: it harms corolla and flower stalk at flowering stage and fruits at berry maturity stage. At the onset, 800 times of 50% thiophanate methyl wettable powder or 800- 1000 times of 50% huishuangte wettable powder can be sprayed.

Grape white rot: It begins at the young fruit stage, and the disease is the heaviest before color, and it is aggravated by high temperature and rainy weather. At onset, 600 times of 50% thiophanate methyl warm powder or 500 times of 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder can be sprayed.

Grape powdery mildew: from young fruit stage to mature fruit stage. 800 times of 50% triadimefon powder can be sprayed during the onset period.

Grape anthracnose: the fruit begins to develop before coloring. Before coloring, 75% chlorothalonil wettable powder can be sprayed 500 times or 80% anthrax thiram wettable powder 500 times.

Grape downy mildew: onset before flowering, from mid-July to mid-August. 600 times of 58% toxic manganese zinc wettable powder or 600 times of 85% ethyl phosphate wettable powder can be sprayed. 72% cymoxanil Mn-Zn wettable powder was sprayed with 800 times solution.

Grape leaf spot disease: the disease begins in the middle period of plant growth, and 65% mancozeb wettable powder can be sprayed with 500 -600 times solution.

Gall mite: also known as "felt disease", it develops from leaf spreading to defoliation. Spraying 0.3- 0.5 Baume sulfur mixture or other acaricide on the leaves.

Grape leafhopper: two generations a year. It is seriously harmful in summer and autumn. Spraying 50% dichlorvos emulsion 1000 times or 20% fenvalerate EC 1000 times for control.

Ⅱ. Matters needing attention in chemical control

Attention should be paid to the alternate use of various pesticides when spraying throughout the year, and the varieties of pesticides and fungicides that have been used for 2 -3 years should be replaced; The main way to prevent diseases throughout the year is to spray Bordeaux mixture, and the organic bactericide should be sprayed once between two Bordeaux mixtures during the peak period. The validity period of fungicides commonly used in production is 7 days-10 day, and the application interval should not be too long; It is best to spray fungicides at night, and to add a spreading agent to improve the efficacy, it can be mixed with pesticides that do not react chemically, and the concentration of drugs should not be increased at will.

Verb (abbreviation of verb) harvesting and overwintering management

1, collecting

(1) Preparation before harvesting

Before harvesting grapes, we must make all kinds of preparations, such as labor arrangement, harvesting tools, packaging, etc.

Inspection and maintenance of materials and transportation machinery, investigation on the growth and maturity of varieties in various districts of the park and output estimation.

(2) Harvest time

The harvest period of wine grapes is generally determined according to the requirements of winemaking in wineries. Brewing materials should contain more than 18% sugar and 0.8%- 1.4% acid. The harvest period of late-maturing varieties in Qinhuangdao area is from late September to1early October.

(3) harvesting method

At present, harvesting is completely done by manpower. When picking fruit, cut it from the base of the stalk with sharp fruit picking scissors. Don't squeeze, handle with care, and remove bruises, diseases and rotten grains. It should be done in the morning or afternoon when the climate is cool, and packed in fruit baskets or plastic turnover boxes.

2. Overwintering management

(1) Cold-proof and buried soil

Qinhuangdao area must be covered with soil in winter, otherwise it is unsafe to overwinter.

Ⅰ. Cold time

The cold-proof time of burying soil varies with the freezing period of soil. Generally speaking, the soil should be buried before freezing, mostly in Qinhuangdao at the end of June, the end of 65438+1the beginning of October-165438+ 10. Young trees and weak trees should be properly buried for 3 -5 days.

Ⅱ. Cold-proof methods

Wine grapes are planted on the ground because of hedges. After pruning in winter, bind the vines into bundles and press them on the ground as low as possible. The roots of vines in the overwhelming direction should be properly padded with soil. Be careful not to fold the vines and let the vines of grapes overlap each other. Soil is taken from the row for landfill, with a thickness of 30 cm -40 cm and a width of more than 1 m, and a convex cold-proof ridge is cultivated along the row.

(2) Remove cold and branches and vines from the shelf.

Grape juice flows in front of buds to dispel the cold, which is generally unearthed in northeast Hebei in early April. According to the phenology of other tree species, the unearthed time can also be determined, such as the flowering of mountain apricots, the budding of apricot trees, the initial fall of poplar inflorescences, etc., which can be regarded as the suitable unearthed time for grape mining. Most of the soil will be cleared in the first time, and all the soil will be cleared in the second time according to the weather conditions. When taking soil, we should pay attention to protecting branches and vines to avoid collision, and the excavation time of young trees and weak trees should be appropriately delayed for 3 -5 days.

After unearthed, branches and vines can be put on shelves. When tying vines, the vines should be inclined to the cold direction to adapt to the bending caused by cold and prevent the base from cracking.