Potted peach trees can not only bear fruit, but also have the function of viewing and beautifying the environment. Therefore, pruning potted peach trees should be beneficial to both fruit and ornamental and beautification. In the tree, you can choose three main branches happy shape, two main branches "Y" shape and curve extension shape. If the three main branches are beaming and the new branches are about 40 cm long, the shoots of about 10 cm can be cut off to promote the growth of secondary branches. When the secondary bud is about 20 cm long, three branches are selected. If the double main branches are Y-shaped, two branches with suitable orientation, similar growth and scattered growth are selected as the main branches, so that they extend outward at an angle of about 60 degrees, and the rest branches are selected. When the three (or two) main branches are about 30 cm long, cut off the shoots about 10 cm to promote the growth of secondary branches. By the end of August, all the tender parts of the new shoots will be removed, which will promote the fullness of branches and buds and improve the ability of cold resistance and overwintering. After the flower buds are formed in the second year, they are pruned by pruning the fruiting branches. While pruning the fruiting branches, we should also select and keep the preparatory branches. The ratio of fruiting branches to prepared branches is generally 2∶ 1 or 1∶ 1. For the prepared branches, the full buds can be kept short to promote them to produce solid fruit branches, and then bear fruit.
Potted peach trees are more convenient for watering and fertilizing, but there must be a certain number and proportion. Don't water them too much, and don't apply too much fertilizer, especially don't apply too much nitrogen fertilizer to inhibit the growth of vain work. For the new shoots growing on the back of the main branches, about 15 cm should be reserved for short cutting in June to promote branching, flowering and fruiting. For other peripheral shoots, when the length is about 40 cm, the shoots of about 10 cm are picked to promote the development of secondary shoots, and those with the length less than 30 cm can be removed. By the middle and late July, when the secondary bud after 1 enucleation germinated to about 25 cm long, it was slightly enucleated. New branches that have been transformed into fruiting branches and other new branches that have stopped growing can no longer be topped. From late August to early September, all the secondary branches that have not stopped growing will be pulled out to promote the enrichment of branches and improve the cold resistance and wintering ability. But the coring time should not be too early, and the secondary buds will not germinate after coring.