If potted oranges are not managed properly, they often only bloom, produce no or few fruits, or even not bloom at all. In order for potted oranges to bloom and bear fruit every year, scientific management of water, fertilizer, pruning and other aspects must be carried out to achieve the goal of abundant fruits. The main aspects of management are as follows:

There are two reasons for proper pruning of potted oranges. First, the pots are small and have less soil, which provides limited nutrients and cannot meet the growth needs of the oranges, so they must be pruned; Yes, through shaping and pruning, the reasonable distribution of nutrients in the tree is adjusted, so that the limited nutrients are concentrated on the buds and leaves, forming more fruit-bearing branches, so as to achieve full branches with flowers and fruits. Before the spring shoots of potted oranges germinate, intensive pruning must be carried out. First, remove dead branches, diseased branches, leggy branches, inward branches, cross branches, sprouting branches, etc. Weakly cut strong branches to leave 4 or 5 full buds; cut weak branches hard to leave 2 or 3 buds to encourage each branch to produce more strong spring shoots. After the branches are all grown in spring, in order to control their excessive growth, you can lightly prune them and cut off 3 or 4 nodes of the branches. The new shoots that will grow in the future will be pinched when they have 6 to 8 nodes, in order to induce more summer shoots.

"Withhold water" before flowering. In order to prevent excessive growth of summer shoots, and at the same time, the tree body needs to accumulate nutrients and promote the formation of flower buds, potted oranges should be "withheld water" before the summer heat. The specific method is to gradually reduce the water supply to the potted oranges more than ten days before the summer heat begins; stop the water supply for the first 5 days, the pot soil will be exposed to the sun, a large amount of water will evaporate, and the pot soil will dry; due to lack of water in the root system, the branches and leaves will lose water and the leaves will dry up. ,curly. In order to prevent the leaves from dehydrating, you can spray water on the leaves in the morning and evening, and you can also spray a small amount of water on the potting soil to keep the oranges in conditions that are both dry and not likely to die. Instead, their axillary buds will expand day by day, and the color of the buds will change from green to white. , when most of the axillary buds turn from green to white, "withholding water" to promote flowering will be successful. At this time, water supply to the potted oranges should be restored in time.

Preserve flowers and fruits After the oranges bloom, in addition to applying thin fertilizer once a week, the flowers and fruits must also be thinned. Before the flowers bloom, some of the flower buds should be thinned out; after the flowers have faded and the fruits have set, some young fruits in improper positions should be thinned out. The purpose is to reduce the consumption of nutrients and allow the limited nutrients to be concentrated on the remaining flowers and fruits, so that the fruits can grow longer. Bigger is better. During the growth period of the fruit, if there is sufficient fertilizer and water and the nutritional status of the plant is good, some branches will sprout new shoots. The growth of new shoots will inevitably divert some nutrients and affect the growth of the fruit. In order to preserve the fruit, the new shoots that grow must be wiped out in time. When the fruit turns yellow and ripe, stop fertilizing and reduce watering to keep the soil moist and slightly dry. If you continue to give too much fertilizer and water, the fruits will mature and fall early, shortening the viewing time.

Reasonable fertilization. Oranges like fertilizer, so you should apply more thin fertilizer at ordinary times. Apply decomposed liquid fertilizer once before the plants germinate, and then apply liquid fertilizer based on nitrogen fertilizer every 7 to 10 days to promote longer branches and leaves and more spring shoots. After each topping, fertilizer should be applied in time to promote early maturity of the branches. During the growth period of oranges, you can sprinkle some cake fertilizer on the surface of the pot so that some fertilizer can penetrate into the soil every time you water to enhance fertility. After autumn, fertilization is reduced to avoid excessive plant nutrition, promote autumn shoots, compete with fruits for nutrients and cause fruit drop.

Repotting: Since the potted oranges have little soil in the pots, the nutrient supply is very limited. After many years, the soil fertility is lacking, and the oranges will weaken year by year, with few flowers and few fruits. In order to keep oranges blooming and bearing fruit every year, they must be repotted. The optimal time for repotting is half a month before the oranges sprout. Before repotting, prepare a pot that is one size larger than the original pot. Take the oranges out of the pot without breaking the mud. Cut off 1 or 2 centimeters of surface soil along the mud and cut off dead and rotten roots. , and peel off 1 cm of soil at the bottom of the mud ball, and take out the tiles that were stuck in the soil on the bottom of the pot. Place the drainage holes in the new pot with tiles, first lay a 2-3 cm thick drainage layer, and then lay a 4-5 cm thick layer of nutrient-rich culture soil mixed with a small amount of superphosphate. Then put the orange mud ball into the pot, fill the surrounding area with culture soil to the mouth of the pot, compact the pot soil slightly, pour enough root water, place it in a ventilated and semi-shady place, and put it back to the original place after a week for daily management. .