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What are the characteristics of potted grape shaping?
Potted grapes can not only produce grapes, but also have ornamental value. Therefore, the modeling of potted grapes should give consideration to both production and viewing. After selecting the box, the crown should be shaped by shaping and pruning, so that the branches and vines of potted grapes can be distributed reasonably in a limited space, with sufficient light, good ventilation, beautiful tree shape, coordinated colors and good growth and development, which is suitable for production and viewing.

The shaping methods of potted grapes are flexible and diverse, and the shaping methods aiming at producing grapes are different from those aiming at viewing. The common plastic methods of potted grapes can be roughly divided into two categories, one is the plastic method with artistic appreciation as the main goal, and the other is the plastic method with the goal of producing grapes with both green and shade. As far as the number of branches and vines is concerned, it can be divided into single main rattan shaping and double main rattan or multi-main rattan shaping.

(1) single main vine shaping refers to planting 1 grape in a pot, leaving 1 main vine and 1 ~ 2 lateral vines, such as single stem type, rod type, umbrella type, pagoda type, small shed and so on.

① Only 1 main vine about 60 ~ 80 cm long is cultivated by single stem shaping, that is, 3 ~ 4 fruiting vines are selected on the main stem to promote its flowering and fruiting. After the trunk thickens year by year, the stent can be removed and become an independent single-stem plastic surgery.

The shaping steps of this tree are as follows: after the grape seeds sprout new buds in the pot, select the strong new buds at the base 1 as the main vines for cultivation, and wipe off the redundant branches. Later, with the gradual elongation of the main vine, it will be tied to the post at any time to prevent wind folding or bumping. When the new shoot length is about 1 m, leave 70 ~ 80 cm for coring. After the new branch germinates the secondary branch, the lower 1 ~ 2 secondary branch leaves 2 ~ 3 leaves, and the upper 2 ~ 3 secondary branch leaves 4 ~ 5 leaves to promote the robust growth of the main vine and promote the flower bud differentiation of the main bud, which is the second. Therefore, it is necessary to leave more secondary branches and pick the core, mainly to increase the leaf area to help the main vine thicken and promote the formation of flower buds. Therefore, when pruning in winter, most of them should be cut off, leaving only 1 main vine, which is about 70 ~ 80 cm long. If the secondary branches are thick, they can also be kept properly to make them become lateral vines.

1 When pruning in winter, if only 1 main vine is left and all other auxiliary branches are cut off, then in the following spring, after the bud eyes germinate, the upper three branches can be selected as fruiting vines for cultivation, and only 1 ~ 2 leaves are left for the new branches sprouting at the lower part to assist the main vine, so don't erase them all.

When pruning in the winter of the following year, each of the upper three fruiting vines leaves 2 ~ 3 buds, making them the fruiting mother vines. At this point, the single-stem tree has basically formed.

In the third and fourth years of pruning, 3 ~ 5 fruiting vines are left per plant every year, and the pruning method of double branch regeneration is adopted to keep its tree shape and stable fruiting parts.

After the fifth year, the trunk gradually thickens and can grow independently without relying on pillars. At this time, the original pillar can be removed.

(2) The shoulder pole type plastic steps are the same as the one-handed type at first. Set a T-shaped bracket about 80 cm in the pot. When the main vine grows to 70 ~ 80 cm, pick the core to make the top of it grow two balanced buds, which are led to the left and right sides respectively, and then leave 2 ~ 3 fruiting vines to bear fruit every year. This kind of tree, with no ear on the trunk, hangs under the crossbar and looks like a telephone pole, so it is called pole type. After the second year, the shaping method of this tree is basically the same as that of the single stem type, except that 1 fruiting branches are less when pruning in the winter of the second year, and 1 fruiting mother branches are less when pruning in the winter of the following years.

(3) Umbrella shaping is to erect a 1 single-layer funnel-shaped bracket in the basin, and then cultivate 2-3 fruiting mother branches on the main vine with a height of about 1 m, and make them extend evenly around, so that the fruit ears formed by the fruiting branches are evenly hung under the circle, which looks like an umbrella, hence the name umbrella.

The umbrella-shaped shaping step is to cultivate the main vine with a length of 1 m, and generally only 1 ~ 2 leaves are left on the secondary branches of the main vine to assist the thickening growth of the main vine. In the second year, two lateral vines were selected from the top of the main vine, led to the left and right sides respectively, and fixed on the circle to make it bear fruit.

When pruning in the winter of the following year, each lateral vine should be cut short with 4-5 knots, so as to be used as the bearing mother branch. In the spring of the third year, two fruiting branches are selected from each fruiting mother branch to make it bear fruit.

When pruning in the winter of the third year, two buds are left at the base of each fruiting branch to form four fruiting mother branches. At this time, the tree has basically formed. When pruning in the next year, keep 4 ~ 6 fruiting branches, and keep the tree shape unchanged with double branches or single branches, so that the fruiting parts will not move up too fast.

(4) Pagoda-shaped shaping First, a long main vine is cultivated, so that it spirals upwards and surrounds a triangular bracket to form a tower shape. The shaping steps are as follows: after the grapes are planted and survived, select 1 robust new shoots to cultivate into main vines, and pick them when the new shoots grow to about 1.2 meters. After the secondary buds germinate, the top 1 leaf leaves 4-5 leaves for coring, and the remaining secondary buds leave 2-3 leaves for coring. The purpose of leaving more secondary branches and leaves is to help the main vines grow thicker.

When pruning in winter in 1 year, all the secondary branches are cut off, leaving only the main vine about 1.2 meters long, which is circled and tied to the triangular bracket. After germination in the spring of the following year, 3 ~ 4 branches with suitable positions are selected as fruiting branches in the upper half of the main vine.

When pruning in winter the following year, the topmost 1 fruiting branch will be shortened by 4-6 buds as the extension branch of the main vine, and the other fruiting branches will be shortened by 2 buds, thus completing the Sophora japonica. When pruning in the next year, leave 3 ~ 4 fruiting mother branches and 6 ~ 8 fruiting branches per plant, and leave 1 ear for each fruiting branch, not too much. The fruiting branches should be evenly distributed on the shelf surface, and the redundant secondary branches should be removed in time, and good ventilation and light transmission conditions should be maintained. When pruning in winter, the method of 1 branch regeneration can be used for pruning.

⑤ Cliff-shaped This tree only cultivates 65,438+0 main vines, which can be hung on one side of the basin for growth, or placed on several high frames or rockeries for viewing.

The shaping steps of this tree are as follows: select 1 strong new shoots from the secondary branches germinated after planting, cultivate them into main vines, and smooth the other secondary branches. In order to help the main vine grow thicker and faster, the redundant auxiliary branches can also be left for pruning in winter and then cut off. When the main tip is about 10 knots, the core is removed. After the secondary bud germinates, the top secondary bud leaves 4 ~ 5 leaves, and the other secondary buds leave 1 ~ 2 leaves. When the main vine turns from green to yellow to brown, it is gradually bent at an angle of about 70 degrees and tied to the bent bamboo piece (pole) or No.8 iron wire. In the spring of the following year, 2 ~ 3 fruiting branches were selected at the top of the main vine, and the results were kept, while the other secondary branches were removed. This plastic method is easy to sprout secondary shoots in the curved part, and it grows vigorously, so we should pay attention to inhibition, and the drooping part is easy to grow weakly, so we should pay attention to adjustment.

When pruning in the winter of the following year, except for the top fruiting branch, which leaves 4-5 nodes for short cutting and continues to extend, the other new branches all leave 2 buds for short cutting and double branch regeneration. With the growth of tree age and the increase of fruit quantity, it is necessary to tie the main vines and fruit vines firmly to prevent them from leaning and lodging.

⑥ shed shaping This tree-shaped frame has a large surface area, many fruits and high yield, and needs a larger container. The shaping steps are as follows: after planting the seedlings of the current year and sprouting new buds, select 1 or two robust new buds according to the size of the planting container, and cultivate them into main vines with the length of about1.0 ~1.2m.. In the spring of the following year, after the new shoots germinate, 3 ~ 4 fruiting branches are selected at appropriate positions on the shed surface. When pruning in the winter of the following year, 2 ~ 3 buds are left at the base of the fruiting vine.

(2) Double main vine shaping: planting 1 grape in 1 pot, leaving 1 main vine, 2 main vines and corresponding fruiting vines. The modeling methods of double main vines mainly include basket-lifting, fan-shaped and funnel-shaped modeling.

① Basket-lifting model Two main vines were planted on 1 grape, and they climbed up symmetrically along the left and right brackets to form a basket-lifting model. The shaping steps are as follows: after the grape seedlings are planted and germinated, two healthy new buds are selected as the main vines for cultivation, and all other new buds are erased. Each new shoot can also retain 1 ~ 2 leaves to make nutrition and assist the main vine to thicken and grow. When the new shoots grow to 70 ~ 80 cm, leave 60 ~ 70 cm for coring. For the secondary branches that germinate late, except for the top secondary branch, 4 ~ 5 leaves are left for core, and all the other secondary branches are left with 1 ~ 2 leaves for core.

1 year winter pruning, only two secondary branches 60 ~ 70 cm long are kept, and all the other secondary branches are cut off. After germination in the following spring, two fruiting vines are selected from each main vine, and all the redundant buds are removed.

When pruning in the winter of the following year, two buds are left at the base of each main vine, and four fruiting mother branches are formed in the following year.

After the third year, select 6 ~ 8 fruiting branches per plant every year.

(2) First, two main vines are cultivated, and the fruiting vines on the main vines are selected to be evenly distributed on the shelves. This kind of tree-shaped vine does not overlap and cross, and has good ventilation and light transmission, so it is an excellent tree-shaped potted grape for production.

③ Funnel-shaped plastic funnel-shaped trees can be divided into single-layer funnels and double-layer funnels. If 1 circle is attached to the bracket in the basin, it is a single-layer funnel, and if two circles are attached, it is a double-layer funnel. Single-layer funnel can only cultivate 1 main vine, and then lead it to scaffolding. The double-layer funnel needs to cultivate two main vines and attach them to the upper and lower funnels of the bracket respectively.

The shaping steps are as follows: after the potted grape seedlings germinate, 1 or two robust new shoots are selected as the main vines for cultivation, and the remaining new shoots are erased. If it is a double-layer funnel, 1 of the two selected main vines will be pulled out and tied to the lower circle when it grows to 80 ~ 90 cm; In addition, the 1 block was picked when it grew to 1.0 ~ 1.2 meters, and tied to the upper circle. For other secondary branches, leave 1 ~ 2 leaves for coring.

During the winter pruning in 1 year, all the secondary branches on the main vine were cut off, leaving only two main vines, one with a length of 80-90cm and the other with a length of1.0-1.2m. After germination in the following spring, 2 ~ 3 new shoots were taken from the upper parts of the two main vines as fruiting branches, and the remaining new shoots were left with 1 ~ 2 leaves.

When pruning in the winter of the following year, leave 2 ~ 3 small segments at the base of each bearing branch to form 4 ~ 6 bearing mother branches. In the future pruning, the pruning method of double branch renewal is adopted to keep the tree shape and stabilize the result part.

(4) Cluster pruning is a tree with 1 extremely short trunk. Three main vines are selected on the trunk, two or three fruiting mother branches are selected on each main vine, and 1-2 fruiting mother branches are selected on each fruiting mother branch, so that these vines are evenly distributed in all directions of the basin, and space and light and heat resources are fully utilized. In this tree, there is no need to set up a bracket.

The shaping steps are as follows: after the grapes are planted and survive, leave a short section of the trunk about 10 cm, and after the bud eyes germinate, leave three new shoots on the upper part, cultivate them into three main vines, and smooth all the other buds. When the new shoots grow to 10 ~ 12 leaves, leave 8 ~ 9 leaves for coring. After the secondary buds germinate, 4 ~ 5 leaves are reserved for the top secondary buds, and 1 ~ 2 leaves are reserved for the rest secondary buds.

When pruning in 1 year in winter, each of the three main vines leaves 6 ~ 7 buds, making them the mother branches of the next year. In the spring of the following year, after the bud eyes germinate, two fruiting branches are selected from each fruiting mother branch, and if there are inflorescences, 1 ~ 2 ears are selected from each fruiting branch.

When pruning in the winter of the following year, each of the six fruiting branches leaves two buds for short cutting. Pruning in the next few years will maintain this shape and stabilize the resulting parts.