One or four gill bass
Shanghai Songjiang perch, which is famous for its fish essence, has always been regarded as a superior delicacy because of its delicious taste, tender meat and special cooking skills. Songjiang perch is plump, with a body length of 10 cm and a weight of 100 g. Its head is big and flat, its mouth is wide and its eyes are small, and it is yellowish brown, covered with several black stripes and slightly black spots. What is even more surprising is that there is still water in the gill cavity after the fish comes out of the water. If put in rice chaff, it can live for four or five days. This fish has concave ridges on the front and back of its gills, which are shaped like gill holes, colored like gill holes, and orange-red stripes on the gill cover, which are shaped like four exposed gill leaves, so it is called "four-gill bass".
Although perch is small, it is quite famous. Fan Chengda, a poet in the Southern Song Dynasty, said in a poem: "There are fish in the orange, and the west wind blows four gills and bass;" When it is crisp and greasy, it is everywhere except Songjiang. "Praise Songjiang bass heartily. According to legend, Emperor Qianlong of Qing Dynasty went to Jiangnan to taste Songjiang perch and named it "the first fish in Jiangnan". Since then, Songjiang Prefecture has paid tribute to the imperial court every year.
1972, when former US President Nixon visited Shanghai, he tasted Songjiang bass. During the period of 1983, Shanghai Jinjiang Hotel held a cooking skill performance of Hong Kong Songjiang bass, which caused a sensation among local Chinese and foreign people. It can be seen that Songjiang perch is regarded as "the treasure of fish" in ancient and modern China and abroad.
Shanghai Jinjiang Hotel is famous for cooking perch. The soup of "four grilled bass" is milky white, fresh and fragrant, tender and delicious.
Raw materials: 750g live bass, 80g spring bamboo shoots, 50g egg white 1, 50g crude oil, 5g onion segments, 5g ginger slices, 0g yellow wine10g, refined salt10g, 3g monosodium glutamate and 760g clear water.
Method: wash the perch and cut the dried bamboo shoots into pieces. Heat the wok on high fire, slide the wok, put oil in it, add onion and ginger slices, until golden brown, turn the belly of the perch up, fry for a while, turn the back of the perch up, cook the cooking wine, cover the lid, uncover the lid, add water, cook for 5 minutes, cover the lid again when the soup is milky white, stew for 6 minutes on low fire, and then uncover the lid.
Second, mandarin fish in white sauce.
"Mandarin fish in white sauce" is one of the famous specialties in Shanghai. This dish is made of live mandarin fish, with milky white color and tender fish, which is favored by diners.
According to legend, there is also an allusion to cooking with mandarin fish. At that time, Kangxi went south to make unannounced visits to the people. One day at noon, he came to the entrance of Nishinomiya, saw a hotel and pushed the door in. Just sit tight, the clerk ran over and said, "What do you want to eat, guest officer?" "A fish, a catty of wine." Kangxi said. After a while, the bartender brought wine and vegetables to Kangxi. Kangxi poured himself a glass of wine, ate a fish and asked for another one. Because this fish is really delicious, Kangxi asked, "What's the name of this dish?" "Campanula grass carp," replied the bartender, "This kind of fish has golden patterns on its abdomen, so it is called' Campanula grass carp'." Kangxi said, "Boss, how about I change the name of this dish?" "Very good." So the bartender brought a pen and paper, and Kangxi wrote the words "Gongmen Fish" and signed "Michelle Ye". Shortly after the signboard was put up, the clerk was pleasantly surprised to hear that it was written by the son of heaven. He quickly knelt down in front of the sign and shouted, "Thank you for your kindness." Although this is a legend, the delicacies made from live mandarin fish are widely circulated.
Ingredients: 1 live mandarin fish (about 1000g), 25g lean diced ham, 50g green beans, 25g cooking wine, 6g refined salt, 5g monosodium glutamate, 10g onion ginger, 100g soup, 10g water starch.
Method:
(1) Scrape the scales of Siniperca chuatsi, cut the umbilicus, wring out the gills and internal organs from the mouth with chopsticks, wash, cut off the fins on both sides and back, blanch them in a boiling water pot, take them out, put them in cold water, gently scrape off the black skin with a knife, cut several knives on both sides of the fish to make them tasty, and put a little salt evenly into a long pot.
(2) Heat a wok, pour in oil, add ham, string beans, soup, refined salt and monosodium glutamate, pour in fish soup, stir-fry with water starch after boiling, and pour it on mandarin fish.
Three, eight-treasure duck
"Babao Duck" is a famous dish in Shanghai hotels, but it is best cooked in Shanghai Chenghuangmiao Shanghai Old Hotel, so it is well-known by gourmets at home and abroad.
In the early 1920s, there were no babao ducks in old restaurants. One day, the shopkeeper heard a guest say how delicious the Babao duck in a restaurant was. For the sake of prosperous business, the shopkeeper took the chef as a customer to a restaurant to taste, and brought back an eight-treasure duck for careful analysis and research. On the basis of absorbing other people's cooking skills, they improved the cooking techniques and materials: First, they changed the traditional practice of deboning the eight-treasure duck, opened the back with bones, filled it with ingredients, locked it in a big bowl and sealed it with cellophane; Second, change the burning to steaming. In this way, the duck shape is full and full, the original juice is outstanding, and it is fragrant. Then sprinkle with shrimp and green beans prepared with steamed duck original brine to make the finished product more colorful. Overnight, the old restaurant "Babel Duck" became famous.
Ingredients: duck 1 piece (about 1500g), diced mushrooms 150g, diced winter bamboo shoots 75g, diced meat 25g, sliced duck gizzard 25g, diced ham 50g, scallops 15g, and diced chestnuts/kloc-0.
Method:
(1) Cut the duck's back side, gut it, wash it, chop off its feet, break its leg bones, blanch the whole duck in a boiling water pot, take it out, wash it, dry it, apply seasonings such as soy sauce, yellow wine and sugar, and buckle it in a big bowl with its belly up.
(2) Stir scallops, diced mushrooms, diced bamboo shoots, diced meat, diced ham, diced chestnuts, sliced duck gizzards, lotus plums, glutinous rice, yellow wine, white sugar, soy sauce and monosodium glutamate into stuffing, put the duck head, neck and feet on the stuffing, seal the bowl with cellophane, and put it in a cage for 3 hours to make the duck meat crisp. Then pour the original brine into the pot, add shrimps and green beans, boil and thicken with water starch, pour the raw oil, push it evenly and pour it on the duck.
Four, eight-treasure hot sauce
"Babao Chili sauce" is a famous specialty in Shanghai, which is improved from "fried Chili sauce". "Stir-fried Chili sauce" is an ordinary home-cooked dish, which used to be eaten at a rice stall. Because of its dark color and strong taste, it is very suitable for eating. In the 1940s, the chefs of Tonghe Restaurant in Jiujiang Road poured a shrimp "cap" on the fried spicy sauce with reference to the cooking method of Shanghai local cuisine "Family portrait", and adjusted and enriched the raw materials of the fried spicy sauce, and cooked it with eight main raw materials such as shrimp, chicken, duck gizzard, pork leg, stomach, Kaiyang, mushrooms and bamboo shoots, hence the name. "Babao Chili sauce" is spicy, fresh and slightly sweet, very tasty and deeply loved by diners. Later, some restaurants in Shanghai followed suit, and "Babao Chili sauce" was widely circulated.
Raw materials: 50g of starch shrimp, 50g of sliced duck gizzard, 70g of cooked diced chicken, 50g of diced pork leg, 50g of peanuts, 50g of diced bamboo shoots, 25g of cooked pork belly, 20g of dried shrimp10g, 25g of bean paste, 20g of Chili sauce, 20g of soy sauce10g, and 20g of dried pork belly.
Method: (1) Take a bowl, add sliced duck gizzard, diced chicken, diced pork, diced belly, diced bamboo shoots, shrimp skin and peanuts and mix well.
(2) Heat a wok, add cooking oil, add chopped green onion and Jiang Mo to stir-fry, then add Chili sauce and bean paste into the wok at the same time, stir-fry for half a minute, add the mixed diced chicken and other raw materials, turn it over a few times, cook cooking wine, simmer for a while, add sugar, soy sauce, monosodium glutamate and broth to boil, continue to use low fire for 3 minutes, and then change to high fire.
(3) Add cooking oil to the wok, and when it is 60% hot, pour in the shrimps and stir fry. When the shrimp turns white, take it out of the wok and pour it into the colander. Put a little oil in the original hot pot. Add broth, salt and monosodium glutamate, cook thoroughly, add shrimp, thicken with starch, pour in cooked oil, and drizzle with hot sauce.
Step 5 steam crucian carp
Steamed crucian carp is a traditional specialty of Dexing Pavilion Hotel in Shanghai.
Cooking with crucian carp, as early as the Qing Dynasty. Legend has it that "Braised Pearl with Big Clam" is a famous dish that Cao Xueqin pondered when he was young. On one occasion, Cao Xueqin went to visit her aunt in Suzhou. In the market, I saw the black-backed crucian carp alive and kicking in the basin, as well as the "pear chicken head" (Euryale ferox) sold by vendors. He was furious and wondered why he didn't buy back two crucian carp and go back to cook a dish for them. I immediately bought live crucian carp and gorgon euryales, returned to menstruation's home, and asked the chef to stew the clams in the washed fish belly. After the cook did the same thing, it was really delicious. Cao Xueqin thought while eating that such delicious fish and vegetables must have a good name. Black-backed crucian carp is like mussels and gorgons are like pearls, so this dish is called "Braised Pearl with Big Clams"! Coincidentally, Zheng Banqiao, one of the "Eight Eccentrics of Yangzhou", had a whim one day and asked his family to chop up the fresh meat sent by friends and put it in the fish belly to fry. The title of the play is "Carassius auratus is pregnant", and the production method is similar to "Braised Pearl with Big Clam", and the result has been well received by the family.
It is said that one year, when Mr. Yu Youren, a veteran of the Kuomintang, visited the Shanghai Chenghuang Temple, he went to Dexing Pavilion, a famous restaurant nearby, for dinner. Because Yu Youren is from Shaanxi and doesn't like sweet dishes, the chef steamed the fish. After this dish is cooked, the fish is tender and delicious, and it tastes particularly good. Since then, "steamed crucian carp" has become the first famous Shanghai dish in Dexing Pavilion.
Raw materials: 2 live crucian carp (about 750g), 25g ham, 25g winter bamboo shoots, 50g water-soaked mushrooms, 5g refined salt, 25g Shaoxing wine, 5g monosodium glutamate, 0.5g pepper, 0/0g onion ginger/kloc-0, 20g lard.
Method:
(1) Scrape the scales, gills and internal organs of crucian carp, and wash the black belly coat. Shred winter bamboo shoots, ham and mushrooms for later use.
(2) Put the crucian carp in a long pot, add shredded ham, shredded winter bamboo shoots and shredded mushrooms, sprinkle pepper, monosodium glutamate, refined salt and onion ginger, add Shaoxing wine, pour lard, steam in a cage for15min, take out and take out onion ginger.
Sixth, the lotus crab war
There are many kinds of crabs in China, including river crabs, swimming crabs, blue crabs and river crabs, among which river crabs are the most popular. Suzhou, Shanghai is famous as "Yangcheng Lake Clear Water Hairy Crab". A poem says, "Yangcheng Lake crabs are not good, so why live in Suzhou in this life?"
Crabs are rich in nutrition and high in fat, vitamin A and riboflavin. Especially the female crab in September and the male crab in October of the lunar calendar, the eggs are full of paste and greasy, big and fleshy. "September navel ball, October tip" is the experience of buying clear water hairy crabs.
There are many ways to eat hairy crabs. In Shanghai in the 1930s, they were usually cooked or steamed. In late autumn, restaurants, hotels, and delicatessens all listed Qingshui hairy crabs. In the future, people think that manual peeling is too troublesome and unsanitary, so Wang Baohe restaurant, which is famous for its crab feast, will remove crab meat by chefs and carefully cook crab dishes according to their tastes, such as "Emerald Shrimp and Crab" and "Crab Oil Dragon Roll". Among them, "Lotus Crab Fight" is very popular because of its delicious white lotus and crab powder, and has become a famous dish with a long history in Shanghai.
Raw materials: live crab 12 (about1.600g), 6 egg whites, 25g shredded onion, 5g shredded carrot1.5g, 0.5g shredded Nostoc flagelliforme, 50g Shaoxing wine, 20g onion, 20g Jiang Mo, 4g monosodium glutamate and 4g refined salt.
Method:
(1) Wash and steam crabs, remove crab powder, wash crab shells and blow dry for later use. Heat a wok, add 75g of raw oil, stir-fry minced onion and ginger and crab powder slightly, add Shaoxing wine, refined salt, monosodium glutamate, pepper and clear soup and stir-fry until the crab powder is completely dried, then take it out of the wok and put it into 12 crab shell evenly.
(2) Break up the egg white, add a little salt and 150g water, stir until the foam comes out, skim off the foam and stir again. Then pour the egg white on the crab powder in each crab shell, put the shredded onion, shredded Nostoc flagelliforme and minced carrot into it to make an orchid pattern, then steam it in a cage for about 6 minutes, and then take it out and put it in a pot after it turns into a white hibiscus flower.
(3) Put 100g stock in the pot, add salt and monosodium glutamate, boil, thicken with water starch, add a little cooked oil, and pour it on the lotus root crab bucket.
Seven, bamboo shoots pickled soup
"Fresh soup with bamboo shoots" is a famous dish in Shanghai. This vegetable soup is white and thick, the meat is crisp and fat, and it tastes delicious. Every spring when bamboo shoots are on the market, Shanghainese like to cook this delicious food.
Bamboo shoots were called "bracts" in ancient times. As early as the Xia Dynasty, people used bamboo shoots instead of food to pay tribute to bamboo shoots and handed them down from generation to generation. At the same time, many poems praising bamboo shoots were left. "An old friend knows what I mean, a thousand miles to send bamboo shoots. Qingtouyu baby, take off the cotton one by one. Bamboo shoots are as white as jade as an infant. This is Su Dongpo's bamboo shoot poem. The chef in the north didn't know what it was, and my eyes lit up when I saw bamboo shoots. The famous monk Ji Dian of the Song Dynasty, Bamboo Shoots Sparse, said: "Gold is painted in the oil pan, and white jade is boiled in the rice pan. "Zanning, another monk in the Song Dynasty, also wrote a monograph on eating bamboo shoots, Bamboo Shoot Spectrum.
Legend has it that Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty especially loved bamboo shoots in the south of the Yangtze River. Cao Yin, his wife and brother Xu Li paid tribute to Beijing every year during their tenure in Jiangning, Suzhou Weaving and Lianghuai Salt Administration (bamboo shoots unearthed when swallows came).
Ingredients: 200g of salted leg meat, 200g of fresh sparerib meat, 50g of clean bamboo shoot meat10g, rice wine10g, a little refined salt, 2g of monosodium glutamate and 8g of lard.
Method: (1) Wash the cured leg meat and fresh rib meat at the same time, scrape the dirt off the skin, and blanch the skin in a pot. Boil it with strong fire first, and then simmer it for half an hour. When it is ripe, turn the bacon over, continue to simmer until the skin becomes soft, take it out when inserting it with bamboo chopsticks, heat it to remove bones, and trim the fat and skin for later use; Boil the fresh ribs until they are 80% cooked, and take them out for later use.
(2) When eating, cut the salty fresh meat into four squares, cut the bamboo shoots into hob blocks, put them into the original soup pot, cook them with strong fire first, then with medium fire for six or seven minutes, and when the soup is thick, cook them with monosodium glutamate and salt, and then take them out of the pot.
Eight, crystal shrimp
"Crystal Shrimp" is one of the famous specialties of Shanghai Jing 'an Hotel, which was once rated as "the first dish in Shanghai". Its development, the famous writer Liang Shiqiu once wrote in "Talking about how to eat in elegant rooms": "Speaking of shrimp, the best is Fujian restaurant. I remember that Zhongxintang on Chang 'an Avenue in Beiping is the only large Fujian restaurant in Beiping. The fried shrimp is full, bright and transparent, soft and crisp. Good management of seafood by monks is a unique step. In the 1940s, the famous chefs of Shanghai Jing 'an Hotel absorbed "fried shrimp" from Cantonese cuisine and Fujian cuisine, and made innovations in cooking skills. In addition, the selection of materials is excellent, the production is rigorous and the flavor is unique. "Crystal shrimp" served on the table, full of strange fragrance, crystal clear, like pearls. No wonder Jing 'an Hotel eats more than ten tons of shrimp every year.
Ingredients: 500g selected river shrimp, egg white 1, 5g monosodium glutamate and 7 refined salt. 5 grams, 15 grams of starch and 4 grams of baking soda, 600 grams of crude oil (actual dosage 40 grams) and 1 gram of sesame oil.
Method: (1) Peel the shrimp shell, add 500 grams of clean water, mix well, wash the shrimp twice, rinse with clean water, pick it up, put it in a colander to drain the water, lay it in a ventilated place to dry for half an hour, then absorb the water with a clean cloth, put it in a bowl, add egg white, monosodium glutamate, refined salt, starch, baking soda powder, and then add raw oil to mix well.
(2) Heat the wok and drain the oil. When the heat reaches 60%, quickly disperse the shrimp with a spoon. When the shrimps are ripe, they will be poured into a sieve to drain the oil.
(3) Mix the broth, monosodium glutamate, salt and starch into thick soup, put the original pot on the fire, add shrimps, pour the thick soup, turn it over a few times, add sesame oil and push it evenly.