Immediately after planting, set stems and leave cutting buds in the same direction. The height of the stem is 60 ~ 70 cm. After germination in spring, the buds and shoots within 40 cm near the ground on the trunk should be erased in time to ensure the normal growth of useful branches in the plastic belt. In order to make several buds at the lower part of the plastic belt branch out, the upper part of the bud is carved before germination. In summer, cultivate several new shoots with suitable direction, angle and growth, and leave them as main branches in the base. Never use competitive branches as main branches, otherwise the tree will be difficult to balance. From the new branches cut from the fixed stem, the upright new branches with vigorous growth in the middle position are selected as the extension branches of the central main stem. In order to maintain the growth advantage of extended branches, attention should be paid to controlling the competitive branches under them: if there are many new shoots in the plastic belt, they can be drained early; When there are few new buds, they can be treated by twisting the new buds or re-coring. In autumn, the angle and orientation of the new shoots of each main branch are adjusted and fixed by pulling branches. In winter, when the young trees grow vigorously and the branches are long enough, cut off 80 ~ 90cm； of branches protruding from the central leadership trunk; Cut each main branch by 40-50 cm, and cut off the first bud, leaving the outer bud; If the tree is weak and the branches grow short, the extension branches of the central leadership trunk are cut off by 40 ~ 50 cm, and the main branches are cut off by 30 ~ 40 cm; At the same time, the base angle of each main branch is about 65,438 0.20, which lays the foundation for forming a complete and firm tree structure.

(2) Pruning in the second to third year after planting

In spring and summer, pay attention to erasing the buds and shoots within 40 cm near the ground on the trunk, as well as the buds on the upper part of the back of the base of each main branch. Strictly control the competitive branches of each backbone branch (kinking, re-coring and dewatering), and cut off the long branches. In order to promote the growth of lateral branches of anticline, buds with appropriate positions can be selected for budding before budding. In autumn, the auxiliary branches (about 70 ~ 100 cm) long enough will be leveled, and the main branches (base and second floor) will be pulled to the ideal orientation and angle. Continue to choose the first and second layers of main branches in winter. The inner distance of the first main branch layer 10 ~ 20 cm, sometimes up to 30 cm (the three main branches are far apart). Adjust the azimuth of the three main branches at the base to about 120 by pulling branches and cutting buds. Each main branch at the bottom has 1 ~ 2 small lateral branches, which are suitable for lateral anticline. Competing branches are not allowed as horizontal branches. When the lateral branch bud position is low and it is difficult to sprout, it can be stimulated by bud carving. The first lateral branch is 20 ~ 40 cm away from the central trunk, and the second lateral branch is about 50 cm away from the first lateral branch. The side branches on each main branch should be arranged in odd and even numbers. In the central leadership, the distance between the first floor and the second floor is 70 ~ 80 cm, which can be completed in two years to form the second floor. In order to improve the early yield, several auxiliary branches or large branches can be arranged between layers, but the growth and elongation of each main branch can not be affected. In winter, the extension branches of each main branch should be pruned when the buds are full, generally 40 ~ 50 cm in length, and the buds at the bud mouth are still outside the buds. If the azimuth angle is not suitable, you can adjust the direction of bud cutting. After germination in early September or spring, the opening angle of the base angle of the strong main branch should be about 60, and the opening angle of the waist angle should be 70 ~ 80. For the annual growth of main branches less than 1 m, it is not necessary to pull out branches, and then pull them out when the length is enough. In order to keep the balance and correct orientation of the main branches, it is more effective to pay attention to the methods of cutting buds, pulling branches and controlling competitive branches.

(3) pruning in the 4th-5th year after planting.

Summer pruning is the same as in previous years, however, it is necessary to increase the pruning of auxiliary branches (twisting tips, coring, girdling, girdling, etc.). ) to promote proper flowering and fruiting. In autumn, besides further adjusting the angle, height and spacing of main branches and lateral branches, attention should also be paid to thinning long branches and dense branches to improve the crown illumination and flower bud quality. In winter, the extension branches of the central main branch of the 4-year-old tree are cut off by 50-60 cm, the extension branches of the main branch are cut off by 40-50 cm, and the extension branches of the side branches are cut off by about 40 cm. The auxiliary branches are still long and smooth, so leave more flower buds to prepare for the fruit. Normal growth of 5-year-old trees, the tree height can reach more than 3 meters, the crown size has met the requirements, accounting for 60% ~ 70% of its nutritional space, leaving only 1.5 ~ 2 meters row space. In order to prevent the crown from closing, the extension branches of the first layer of main branches do not need to be cut again to delay the transition period of the crown. At the same time, we should continue to choose the second side branch and the third main branch on the base branch. In order to promote the early fruiting of young trees and control the crown by fruit, the method of "putting first and then shrinking" should be adopted to cultivate branches. The strong branches on the back of the main branches should be close together, flattened or slightly drooping (> 120), and most of them form uniaxial slender oblique pine branches. In order to effectively alleviate the tree vigor and promote the age-appropriate fruit, it is still necessary to cultivate the branch group and transform the auxiliary branches by using various techniques such as commutation, cutting and chemical control.