The top of pear tree has obvious advantages, strong polarity (pictured) and is sensitive to pruning. Try to cut it lightly during plastic surgery, and don't trim it too much to cause it to grow. Pear has weak branching ability, few branches and small opening angle, so there are few long branches on the main branch and the branch density is small. At the beginning of plastic pruning, we should pay attention to the angle of branch opening, don't let the backbone branches extend too fast, and increase the number of branches by carving buds.

As shown in the figure, the pear tree polarity is displayed (the arrow indicates the polarity position).

Because pear trees have a particularly strong vertex advantage, few branches, small opening angle and great difference in growth force between branches, the extension branches of the central trunk and the main branch often grow too strongly, rise and extend too fast, and it is easy to form a crown with strong upper part and weak lower part, and it is easy to lose balance between the main branch and the main edge. If we don't pay special attention to the side branches, we can't even form ideal side branches. It is easy to be strong before and weak after, dense before and empty after. When pruning, the central stem should be controlled to rise too fast to slow down the growth and control it effectively. The main branch should have a base angle, which can generally be above 50. For varieties with few branches, such as Japanese pears, the opening angle of the main branches should not be less than 60 to increase the branches, otherwise it is easy to form a disjoint phenomenon on the main branches, only more short fruit branches and short fruit branches appear, and the side branches are few and weak. This kind of tree has low yield and is easy to age. After shaping the bottom corner of pear tree, we should pay attention to opening the sharp corner every year. If the tip is inclined upward, it is easy to be strong in the front and weak in the back, which will accelerate the exposure of the bore. In order to shorten multiple branches, 1-2 weak buds should be cut off before the complete buds, so that more long branches can appear and grow evenly, and the short branches behind them are stronger.

Pear branches are weak, so long branches should be used as much as possible to expand the amount of early branches and strive for early high yield. In particular, some Japanese pears and Yali pears with few branches should be thinned, and strong branches should be used as much as possible to make them useful by changing their direction, position and growth. For example, an upright flourishing branch can bear fruit for a long time, and then it will open, droop and weaken, and then retract for use. Or pull it to make it grow sideways. The back of the main branch is flourishing, which can be used in summer by pinching the tips and changing the growth posture. In short, we should make more branches, less branches and more branches.

Pay attention to cultivating the middle and rear branches of the main branch as soon as possible, cultivate more large and medium branches on the anticline side, control the extension speed of the top of the main branch, and prevent the lower part from being empty after fruiting. The long branches that have been preserved can be put out for a long time before they can be transformed into results.

The first year after pear tree planting is a slow seedling stage, often with few branches and very weak. In this case, don't rush to determine the main branch, don't prune it in winter, and don't leave the terminal buds of weak branches. Choose strong short branches in the parts with good orientation on the main branch, which will damage the eyes above the short branches so as to grow branches in the next year. Branches made of this kind of short branches have good bottom angles and good growth and development. For the remaining weak branches, only the terminal buds can be removed to balance the main branches, and then the growth potential between the remaining main branches can be balanced by re-cutting the strong branches and lightly cutting the weak branches. When three main branches cannot be selected within one year, the remaining main branches should be slightly shortened. For auxiliary branches, it is necessary to leave more and put more, stretch the angle, increase the branches and leaves, and make them form early fruits. Too strong and vigorous branches should be leveled first, and when the growth of backbone branches is affected, methods such as shrinking branches, cutting branches and thinning branches should be adopted to make way for backbone branches.

The large, medium and small branches of pear are easy to extend on a single axis, so we should make as many branches as possible to form a fan-shaped branch group, and keep more branches in the young tree period and cultivate them early. In a word, pear tree pruning should be sparse, less short cutting and retraction, branch addition should be realized by carving buds, and the opening angle should be mainly pulling branches. Young trees should increase the amount of branches and leaves as much as possible, and pruning should be light; During the full fruit period, the balance relationship and master-slave relationship should be adjusted, and the fruiting branches should be finely pruned.