After planting seedlings in the first year, leave 0.8 ~ 1 m to fix the stem, and there must be full buds evenly distributed in three directions under the incision. When the new buds grow to more than 20 cm in spring, the new buds designated as the main branches are induced in time, and the angle of the new buds is adjusted to about 45 with bamboo poles, and the top part is upward. Other branches can be pulled to the level of June to inhibit their growth. When pruning in winter, the extended branches of the main branches are cut short at the strong buds, and the cut buds must be side buds, no buds or lower buds, and other branches are thinned out. In the second growing season, lure the main branches with bamboo poles. Keep the tip of the main branch upward, and remove the clustered branches on the back of the main branch and the strong new branches at the tip of the main branch in time; Cut the strong branches lightly, and cut the weak branches again. In winter, all the competitive branches at the top of the main branch, the long branches on the back and the 1 annual branches growing on the main branch are drained; Branches from lateral buds on the main branch can be kept, and the part beyond the net surface is induced to be 90 degrees with the main branch and tied horizontally on the frame surface. For branches with flower buds and short fruit branches, they can grow and bear fruit. After the third year, the part of the main branch beyond the net surface continues to be tied horizontally to the net surface, and the vertex part is still upward. Open the side branches on the main branches in time to slow down the growth and promote the differentiation of flower buds. In the first two years, we should maximize the advantages of the top of the main branch and extend the length of the main branch as much as possible. The key of pruning technology in greenhouse cultivation is to keep the growth of the top of the main branch. About 6 years later, the tree was shaped into a crown with 2 ~ 3 main branches, 6 lateral branches and 65,438+02 secondary lateral branches, with the first lateral branch being 80cm away from the main branch, the adjacent lateral branches on the same main branch being 70 ~ 80cm away, and the same lateral branch being 65,438+0.5 ~ 2 m away. Auxiliary side branches are arranged on the side branches, the distance between adjacent auxiliary side branches is 20-30cm, and the length is1.2-1.5m. ..

In order to improve the productivity of pear trees, nutrients absorbed from the roots must be evenly transported to all corners of the branches on the shed surface. The main branches and lateral branches of pears are equivalent to the trunk of transporting nutrients. It is hoped that the "trunk line" will extend as straight as possible. If the middle suddenly tapers, the flow of nutrients will be blocked. If the vertex is blocked, the transmission will be blocked. Applying this principle to the pruning of pear trees requires that the main branches should not be bent, be as straight as possible, extend according to the thickness of natural decline, and always keep the growing point of the apex robust. By pruning, the elongation height of the developing branches on the shed surface is almost the same, so that the nutrients and water absorbed from the roots can be evenly supplied to all parts of the tree, while the developing branches from the tips of the main branches and side branches are like "main pipes" that absorb nutrients and water, thus promoting the top strength. Pruning the extension branches of main branches and side branches: ① When the extension branches of main branches and side branches only have leaf buds (5-year-old trees), leave 5-6 buds and cut them off at the full buds. (2) When several axillary buds grow on the extension branches of the main branch and the side branches, the full buds are cut off below the axillary buds. (3) When there are many axillary buds on the extension branches of the main and lateral branches, 5-6 buds are left on the extension branches with strong growth potential, 3-4 buds are left on the small extension branches, and cuttings are left on the upper buds. (4) When the branches protruding from the main branches and side branches become short fruit branches or branchlets, they are recovered and updated to 2-3 year-old branches.

After entering the fruiting period, the pruning of pear trees is mainly to ensure the growth advantage of the top of the main branch. By enucleating the fruiting branches, the growth can be controlled, the fruiting mother branches can be retracted or updated in time, and the over-dense side branches and branches can be thinned out. Don't leave piles when pruning in winter, which will easily lead to excessive growth. If you subtract the excess length in summer, you can keep an excess length with a spacing of 50 cm. The branches are updated every year. There are many opportunities for branches to bend on the shed surface, and some branches bend upward, which is easy to produce long branches, so try to lure them horizontally.