Analysis:

Development strategy of textile and garment industry in Guangdong province

I. Introduction

Textile industry is an industrial sector closely related to the national economy and people's lives. This industrial sector includes fiber manufacturing, textile, dyeing and finishing, clothing and other production technology industries. They are independent and closely related to each other, forming a large industry with long industrial chain and complex and wide value chain. With the progress of modern science and technology and its application in textile industry, the connotation of textile industry has changed greatly, from the traditional "textile and textile" to the "modern textile industry" mode, which is embodied as follows:

(1) The transformation of textile production mode: from manual operation to machinery to electromechanical integration. Especially, the application of computer, automatic control and information technology in the textile industry has made the textile industry enter a new era of "modern information textile industry".

(2) The change of textile raw materials: from natural fiber to the dual structure of "natural fiber+chemical fiber". Make the textile industry get rid of the weakness of relying entirely on natural fibers and being limited by natural climate and region.

(3) Changes in the application field of textile products: From simple living consumption to production consumption, the consumption pattern of clothing, decoration and industry has been formed.

Textile industry is a traditional pillar industry in Guangdong Province. After a century of hard work and development, a relatively complete industrial system has been established. Especially since the reform and opening up, the textile industry has entered the international market and become one of the largest net foreign exchange earning industries in Guangdong Province. 1999, the total output value of textile and garment industry in our province was 1175.3 billion yuan, of which the output value of textile and garment accounted for 5 1.5% and 48.5% respectively (see figure1). In the same year, the export of textile and garment industry in our province earned 128.5 USD (textiles accounted for13 of similar products in China and 2 1% of the total export of our province). It can be seen that the textile and garment industry has played an important role in the national economic construction. At the same time, the textile industry in our province, like the whole country, began to expose deep-seated hidden dangers. Since 1993, the state-owned textile enterprises have been losing money continuously, and gradually got into trouble. The main reason is that the repeated construction over the years has resulted in excessive total amount, heavy debts, redundant staff, heavy social burden, low product quality, weak technological innovation ability and lack of market competitiveness. Practical experience tells us that to realize the long-term sustainable development of textile industry in our province, we must change the traditional extensive economic model, turn to intensive growth and market economy system, and turn from quantitative growth to qualitative improvement, so as to realize new development. In recent years, state-owned textile enterprises have implemented the policy of "pressing spindles", compressed backward cotton spindles and diverted surplus personnel, which initially realized the overall turnaround of state-owned textile enterprises in the system and appeared a gratifying situation.

In the 2 1 century, in the era of market economy and knowledge economy, and today when China is facing WTO, how to face the characteristics of the textile industry, use the achievements of scientific and technological development, improve the quality and grade of textile products, enhance the competitiveness of products in the international market, and meet the needs of domestic and foreign markets for textiles is a problem that every textile enterprise must seriously consider. After joining the WTO, China's economy will be internationalized and integrated into the world economy. In order to adapt to the pattern of economic internationalization and market globalization, it is more important to study the technical development strategy of textile industry. Based on the analysis of the technical development level and trend of international, domestic and Guangdong textile industry, this paper puts forward the technical development strategy and thinking of China's textile industry to achieve sustainable development based on domestic and facing the world.

Second, the trend and characteristics of technological development in textile and garment industry

1. Trends and characteristics of international development:

Since the 1980s, the major developed countries in the world have obviously increased their investment in the textile industry, carried out extensive technological transformation, and constantly updated their production technologies and equipment, thus transforming the textile industry from a "labor-intensive" industry into a "capital and technology-intensive" industry. Science and technology play an important role in realizing the internal upgrading of textile industry, and the development trend of international textile technology is generally towards automation, continuity and computerization. Nowadays, in developed countries, new technologies such as non-spindle spinning, shuttleless woven cloth, continuous polymerization direct spinning of chemical fiber and spunbonded direct spinning have been widely used in production fields. With the "mechatronics" technology widely infiltrated into all kinds of textile equipment, not only the production automation and quality control technology have undergone fundamental changes, but also the labor productivity has been greatly improved. Especially the development of nonwoven technology has brought a new revolution to textile processing technology. It uses chemical or mechanical methods to strengthen the fiber web and directly make the fabric, which saves the traditional tedious spinning and weaving process and improves the production efficiency of the textile industry by several times and dozens of times. At present, the deepening and expansion of scientific and technological progress and innovation in textile industry has become a remarkable feature of the development of international textile industry. Clothing textiles are developing in the direction of functionalization and health care, decorative textiles are developing in the direction of serialization, matching and high-grade, and industrial textiles are developing in the direction of high strength, high modulus, high temperature resistance and corrosion resistance, which fundamentally changes the face of all industries in the textile industry chain.

(1) fiber manufacturing industry: the overall technology is developing in the direction of high speed, differentiation, ultra-fine and compound. The proportion of chemical fiber in the total fiber output is increasing year by year, and the fineness of fiber monofilament is decreasing. Synthetic fibers are developing in the direction of imitating nature and supernatural, while natural fibers are trying to improve their moth-proof, wrinkle-resistant and mildew-proof properties. With the development of new products, the production technology of differentiated fibers represented by polyester has made great progress. At first, it changed the appearance and feel of fiber for the purpose of imitating natural fiber, and now it has developed into super-simulated and super-sensitive fiber with super-natural fiber properties. For example, Sillook Royal Imitation Silk Fiber from Toray Japan, Belina Microfiber from Bell Japan, Biosil Antibacterial Fiber from Toyo Japan, Gripy Aromatic Fiber from Mitsubishi Japan, Lycra Elastic Fiber from Dupont USA, Meraklon High Fluffy Polypropylene Fiber from Italy, Tencel New Viscose Fiber from Kautauer UK are all new fiber varieties enjoying high reputation in the international market. The recent development of new chemical fiber technologies not only continues to use fine denier and superfine denier technologies, multi-differential technologies and polymer modification technologies, but also attracts attention to high-tech composite spinning, including conventional spinning technology, ultra-high speed spinning technology, high-tech composite filament processing technology, new spinning fiber mixing technology and various infiltration mixing technologies. In addition, bionic technology is also used to develop bionic fibers and produce biodegradable and environmentally friendly fibers; Using genetic technology to change hemp characters and cotton color; Production of biological cellulose fiber by bacterial culture technology.

(2) Textile dyeing and finishing industry: transform or update traditional textile dyeing and finishing equipment with advanced technology. By using the technologies of mixing, winding and twisting, the differentiated fibers, new synthetic fibers, conventional fibers and natural fibers are combined and innovated in different forms, and a variety of differentiated effects are obtained, such as slub silk, winding silk, core-spun silk, multilayer silk, loop silk, spiral silk and snowflake silk. Using jacquard, embroidery, hollowing, napping, wool-like, hemp-like, leather-like, composite and other weaving techniques, we can get a novel appearance fabric, either as thin as cicada's wings or shiny, or comfortable and warm inside, waterproof and breathable outside, or soft knitting and realistic leather-like. Advanced finishing techniques, such as soft finishing, fluffy finishing, creping finishing and various functional finishing, are adopted to give the products soft, antistatic, flame retardant and antibacterial properties. In production, additives that do harm to people's life or ecological environment will be eliminated (such as azo dyes and formaldehyde finishing), and pollution emission production will be banned and replaced by green (environmental protection) production technology.

(3) Clothing manufacturing industry: The fashion trend in 2 1 century is to pursue high-grade and famous brands, comfort, leisure, health, function, style and art. Now the clothing manufacturing industry has entered the stage of brand benefit, and the main means is to collect information, design and sell products by using network technology. Clothing CAD (Computer Aided Design) system is becoming more and more popular. In American garment industry, more than 50% of enterprises are equipped with garment CAD, more than 70% in Europe and more than 80% in Japan. At present, garment CAD has developed to CIMS (Computer Integrated Manufacturing System), and many famous brands (such as Lectra) have CIMS. CIMS includes all activities of market forecasting, product design, product manufacturing, production management and finished product sales. It is not only the integration of logistics and equipment, but also the integration of information. CIMS can improve productivity by 30% ~ 50%, shorten production cycle by 30% ~ 60%, reduce design cost 15% ~ 30%, reduce labor cost by 5% ~ 20%, and greatly improve and improve product quality. CIMS integrates information technology, computer technology, automation technology and modern management technology, and has become the development direction of modern clothing design and production.

2. Domestic development level and characteristics:

China's textile industry is a typical export-oriented economy, which plays an important role in the global textile and clothing trade. At present, China's output of cotton yarn, cotton cloth, silk products, chemical fiber and clothing ranks first in the world. 1998 textile and clothing exports are 42.8 billion US dollars, accounting for 23% of China's total export commodities. 3%, accounting for 13% of the world's total textile and garment exports, making it a major textile producer in the world. Since the reform and opening up, due to paying attention to the international market dynamics, promoting technological progress, introducing a number of advanced technologies and equipment, and developing high value-added and high-tech products, the product structure adjustment of the industry has been promoted. China's textile products are developing towards finished products, high quality and diversification. The proportion of chemical fibers in the use of textile fibers has increased to 43%, and the proportion of differentiated and functional fibers has also increased to 16% ~ 20%. Textiles are moving towards the middle and high end. Clothing is the most internationally competitive product in China, accounting for 70% of the total textile exports, and the international competitiveness coefficient is as high as 93%, but about 50% of them use imported fabrics. Therefore, the production technology level of textile fabrics has become the bottleneck for China textile industry to expand its world market share. Compared with advanced countries, the technical level of China's textile industry is still relatively backward. Mainly as follows:

(1) The variety of textile raw materials is single, the variety of fabrics is few, the product structure is unreasonable, and the middle and low-grade products are the main products, with more general products and less high-grade brand-name products; Clothing textiles account for a large proportion (3/4), while industrial textiles and decorative textiles account for a small proportion (only 1/4), while these three types of textiles in developed countries generally account for 1/3 respectively. 1998 The foreign exchange level of China's tons of fiber products is $654.38+200,000, while the average level of advanced countries in the world is $654.38+700,000 ~ 20,000, which is12 of the average level of developed countries, and the unit price of exported clothing is only13 of that of developed countries.

(2) The technology of spinning, weaving, printing and dyeing equipment is backward, and the low-level production capacity is surplus. According to statistics, 25% of cotton spinning capacity, 15% of wool spinning capacity and 30% of printing and dyeing capacity belong to backward equipment that needs to be eliminated, and the proportion of them reaching the advanced level in the 1990s is less than 20%. Therefore, the appearance quality of the garment fabric made from this is poor, the weft yarn is easy to shrink, and the color difference, style, feel and functionality do not meet the requirements of garment production.

(3) Environmental pollution problems need to be solved urgently. The environmental pollution of textile industry includes waste water, waste gas and noise. Wastewater is the main pollution in the industry, including printing and dyeing wastewater, chemical fiber production wastewater, wool washing wastewater and hemp degumming wastewater, among which printing and dyeing wastewater is the key pollution source. The waste gas mainly comes from the tail gas of boiler combustion. Noise pollution is an old problem in the textile industry. At present, the noise of most workshops in cotton mills is above 90 decibels, and the noise of weaving workshops is 104 decibels.

Thirdly, the technical development level of textile and garment industry in Guangdong Province is analyzed.

Textile and garment industry occupies a very important position in the economic structure of Guangdong Province. Before the reform and opening up, Guangdong's textile and garment industry was not prominent in the country; Since the reform and opening up, Guangdong Province, as the leader of China coastal open area, has witnessed rapid development of textile and garment industry. Judging from the raw material fiber industry of textile and garment industry, many cities in Guangdong Province have introduced a number of foreign advanced equipment by taking advantage of policy environment, geographical location and capital, and the overall technical equipment level ranks first in the country. The cotton spindles imported by the whole province account for1/3 of the total national imports; There are more than 100 chemical fiber filament production lines, international advanced polyester melt direct spinning and composite spinning equipment, polymerization equipment with a production capacity of 60,000 tons and double-head high-speed spunbonded nonwovens production line, ranking first in the country; New warp and weft knitting equipment, hosiery machine equipment and shuttleless loom, more than 200 sets of overprinter and dyeing and finishing equipment, and computer-aided production means such as color measurement, computer color separation and plate making; Computer aided design system and production system, such as computer design lofting, typesetting, sewing, bag hanging, conveying and three-dimensional ironing, have been gradually applied in clothing industry. On the basis of advanced technology and equipment, the enterprise has developed a number of domestic leading new products and high-quality and high-value-added export products, such as new differential fiber polyester-cotton composite fabrics, cotton linen-like chemical fiber filament fabrics, pure cotton combed yarns, rotor spinning, raschel acrylic blankets, high-quality yarn-dyed fabrics, denim series and printed decorative fabrics.

Judging from the technical development level of textile and garment industry in Guangdong province, although it ranks in the forefront of the country, there are still many problems in technical development. Although the fiber industry introduced foreign equipment and technology, it failed to buy out the technology, which made foreign businessmen repeatedly provide the same equipment and technology to other enterprises in our province and even in China. For example, our province has introduced several high-speed spinning production lines of polyester filament from German Pamag and Swiss Ivanda. With the repeated introduction of other enterprises, the technological advantages of the enterprises that introduced equipment and technology in our province in the early stage no longer exist, and most enterprises in our province failed to digest, absorb and innovate the imported technology, which made the products of our province similar to those of domestic enterprises with the same technology, and the quality was not high, so we could only move towards vicious competition. Affected by deflation in China and the Asian financial crisis, the chemical fiber industry has been hit hard. Although the crackdown on smuggling has achieved initial results in recent years and the market has recovered, the debt burden of bank loans and high-priced imported production lines in those years was too heavy, especially the profitability of enterprises that were built and put into operation after 1992 could hardly reach the expected goal, and few enterprises were able to develop new fiber materials and new production processes. Take the polyester fiber with the highest output among synthetic fibers as an example. The scale and technology development ability of polyester enterprises in Guangdong Province are not as good as those in Taiwan Province Province. With the reduction of import tariffs, POY products in Guangdong are facing a greater impact, but the labor cost of fiber industry in our province is far lower than that in Taiwan Province Province. Compared with imports, DTY, a post-processing product of polyester, still has advantages. DTY products in our province will mainly face competition from domestic enterprises. With the increase of labor cost in our province and the improvement of the competitiveness of mainland enterprises, fiber enterprises in our province will compete in the domestic market. At present, if the leading fiber enterprises in our province do not make more efforts in capital accumulation and technology development, it will be difficult to establish competition and core expertise advantages in domestic competition.

There are many weaving enterprises in Guangdong Province, including thousands in Xiqiao District of Nanhai City. The scale of enterprises is generally small, and a considerable number of enterprises are backward in equipment and do not have the ability of technological development and innovation. The fabrics produced are mainly low-grade, and now they are in the stage of overcapacity. The high-grade fabrics needed in the cloth market still rely heavily on imports, and most low-level weaving enterprises mainly rely on imitation. In the cloth market, new cloth is called "weekly cloth", that is, a piece of new cloth is often copied and imitated within a week, which greatly damages the interests of the original developers, resulting in enterprises that are unable to carry out technological innovation not to develop, while those that are capable of developing are unwilling to develop, and all want to find ready-made models to imitate, resulting in enterprises with technological development capabilities unable to develop rapidly in the market. Although some enterprises want to imitate imported high-grade fabrics, the required characteristic fibers cannot be obtained from the market in time, so it is not easy to imitate high-grade imported fabrics, and everyone can imitate middle and low-grade fabrics. Generally speaking, weaving enterprises in Guangdong province do not have competitive advantages in the whole country.

Dyeing and finishing enterprises in Guangdong Province rely on buying dyes and auxiliaries for dyeing and finishing, without their own core technology, and their technical level is not high. In addition, the grade of embryo fabric is not high, and printing and dyeing cloth also takes the middle and low-grade route, with low price and low added value. Therefore, they can only compete in the international market with middle and low-grade products, and can only obtain the average profit of dyeing and finishing industry processing. Limited by pollution laws and regulations, coupled with the strengthening of environmental protection measures in Guangdong Province, dyeing and finishing enterprises need high sewage treatment investment, otherwise they are more likely to close down, stop production and merge, and the development of the industry is greatly restricted.

In the clothing industry, China experienced the stage from no brand to brand. However, the proportion of brand enterprises is not high, and most garment enterprises are processing imported materials, and the designs and samples are provided by others. Not many enterprises can independently design and lead the trend of clothing.

In terms of clothing design, with the development of computer and network technology, the gap between our province and the world will be narrowed, and a considerable number of clothing enterprises may grasp the clothing trend. In addition, the labor cost in China is low, so China's clothing design and processing will be quite competitive internationally. Therefore, facing the WTO, the clothing industry is a very favorable industry in China. The competitors of Guangdong garment industry are mainly at home. Considering that the geographical environment of our province is conducive to clothing export, with the improvement of people's living standards, we will pay more attention to clothing brands, and the existing brand enterprises in our province have the opportunity to grow in domestic and foreign markets and establish brand advantages.

Fourth, the strategic choice of Guangdong textile and garment industry technology development

Textile industry is an industry with high international dependence. China's traditional textile industry has also been challenged from two aspects. On the one hand, the developed countries represented by the United States have transformed the traditional textile industry through high technology, which has greatly improved labor productivity and restored industrial competitiveness; On the other hand, the average hourly wage of workers in relatively more advantageous developing countries (such as Pakistan) is only 66% of that of China. Due to good technical transformation, the competitiveness of yarns and fabrics has surpassed that of China. After the integration of international textile trade, this kind of competition will be more rapid. In order to adapt to the changes of domestic and international market demand after China's entry into WTO, it is very necessary and urgent to transform and develop the textile and garment industry in our province with high technology. Based on the above analysis of the technical development level and trend of textile and garment industry in Guangdong Province, this paper puts forward the tentative plan of the technical development strategy of textile and garment industry in Guangdong Province: adopting the strategy of replacing imports and expanding exports, vigorously developing garment fabrics, decorative textiles and industrial textiles; Make full use of the national discount policy for technological transformation, and vigorously develop and innovate related fiber technology, spinning, weaving technology, dyeing and finishing technology, nonwoven technology and clothing design; Improve the added value and competitiveness of products in an all-round way and realize the all-round upgrading of the industry. The specific technical development strategies are as follows:

1. fiber enterprises: we should vigorously develop new technologies and products, not only clothing fibers, but also expand the production of decorative fibers and industrial fibers to improve the grade and added value of products. In order to understand the development trend of technology, we should vigorously develop differentiated and functional fibers to meet the requirements of super-simulation, super-sensitivity and multi-function. Fiber enterprises are upstream enterprises in the weaving industry, and the purpose of technology development is to use new fabrics. Only fibers used in high-grade fabrics can obtain high added value.

2. Spinning enterprises: develop new spinning technologies such as air spinning and air-jet spinning, improve the utilization rate of advanced blowing-carding unit, fine winding unit and automatic winding machine, and increase the proportion of combed yarn.

3. Weaving enterprises: The weaving industry has entered the era of electronic and information competition. The disorderly imitation of textile industry in our province has caused the oversupply of products. The main reason is that the information of the industry is unclear and the ability of product development and design is weak. Failing to grasp and apply the international textile fashion trend, not knowing "what to produce" and "how to produce". In fact, the fashion trend forecast released by international famous fabric exhibitions has largely guided the development direction of the international fabric market. In recent years, although various domestic fabric exhibitions have emerged one after another, the trend release has been in a weak position. Guangdong Province should strengthen information release and trend guidance, and weaving enterprises should also be good at applying these trends to guide production. For example, China Textile City in Shaoxing, Zhejiang Province, has become an important place to obtain information about cloth transactions. Cotton, wool, silk, hemp, plus chemical fiber, often have a wide variety, so technology development should fully consider the product function, material structure, technology, modeling, color, finishing, apparent effect, decoration and other factors, such as blended fabrics, high-density and high-count fabrics, fancy yarns, functional fabrics and so on. Only by paying close attention to information, changing imitation into innovation, changing low-grade into high-grade and gradually eliminating backward equipment can textile enterprises in Guangdong Province prosper and develop.

4. Dyeing and finishing enterprises: Dyeing and finishing enterprises in our province should keep up with the development trend of international dyeing and finishing technology. In addition to eliminating the backward dyeing and finishing equipment, we should try our best to use environmentally-friendly dyes with low toxicity and pollution, develop in the direction of green dyeing and finishing, and strive to adopt and develop new technologies such as waterless dyeing, transfer printing, multi-color printing, computer color matching, biological enzyme finishing, double mercerization finishing and formaldehyde-free finishing. Enterprises that dye and process export-oriented garments should also be familiar with the regulations of exporting countries on the restriction of dye types. Vigorously strengthen the development of post-finishing technologies such as anti-ultraviolet, flame retardant, antibacterial, deodorizing, antistatic and softening, and comprehensively improve the added value of dyeing and finishing.

5. Clothing enterprises: The clothing industry is a typical brand industry. The clothing prices of the same style and different brands vary greatly, and the new style also has high added value. Therefore, the clothing industry should not only innovate in design, but also establish a good brand. The two complement each other, that is, brand enterprises need constant innovation to get ahead, and innovative clothing also needs the "foil" of brands. Both of them are not ideal, and the promotion of these two aspects has a great impact on the clothing industry. Therefore, Guangdong garment industry should establish a good brand, which is an intangible asset of enterprises, and gradually accumulated from the aspects of product output, quality, sales volume, price, market share, after-sales service and product promotion. Because the clothing industry in Guangdong province developed rapidly after the reform and opening up, there are few well-known old brands, and it is urgent to establish new brands as soon as possible. The market economy environment has made more and more entrepreneurs fully realize the importance of brand, and many garment enterprises in Guangdong Province have gradually shifted from receiving orders and processing materials to establishing brands. Brand clothing requires high quality, reasonable fabric selection and meticulous workmanship. Fashion design needs to be creative and targeted at the groups it wears. For example, people of different ages have different choices about colors and styles. If the designed clothing wants to be accepted by the market, it needs far-sighted prediction. First of all, we should do a good job in information collection. The trend prediction of internationally renowned professional organizations has great commercial value, and we know what is new and what will be popular. Secondly, we should make full use of the advantages of fast computer design, three-dimensional and easy plate making and proofing. In recent years, the rapid popularization of computer technology and network applications in China, coupled with the exchange in fashion exhibitions, is expected to continuously narrow the gap between China and the world in fashion design, and even maintain a leading position in some fashion designs. Conditional clothing enterprises can actively cooperate with powerful fiber, weaving, dyeing and finishing enterprises to develop characteristic clothing, which makes it difficult for other enterprises to imitate, or clothing can be imitated, but there are no raw materials to imitate. This one-stop characteristic clothing development is expected to form its own unique competitive advantage. Judging from the WTO agreement signed by WTO members and China, the barriers of China's clothing export will eventually be broken, which provides an excellent development opportunity for our province's clothing industry.

6. Nonwovens enterprise: Our province is one of the three major nonwovens production bases in China, with more than 220 production lines such as spunbonding, needling, spunlace, thermal bonding, chemical bonding, sewing and melt blowing, with an annual production capacity of185,500 tons, accounting for 28% of the total nonwovens production in China. 80% of the equipment is imported from abroad, with advanced technology and high quality products. Nonwovens are our province's strong points. It is predicted that in the next 10 year, the annual production capacity of nonwovens in our province will reach more than 300,000 tons, and a number of large-scale nonwovens enterprises will emerge, which will basically catch up with the world advanced level in terms of production speed, product variety, quality and technology. The key development direction of Guangdong nonwovens technology is spunbonded nonwovens, especially polyester spunbonded nonwovens, and the multi-head production speed is 300 ~ 600 m/min. Differential fiber spunbonded fabric; High-grade spunlaced nonwovens; High-grade wide needle-punched nonwovens; And develop various industrial nonwovens, such as shed cover materials, cultivation substrates, geotextiles, building protection materials, packaging materials, automobile interior materials, etc. To make Guangdong nonwovens more competitive internationally.