Hanfu is one of the oldest national costumes in the world [4], and it is a traditional national costume inherited by the Han nationality for more than 4,000 years. It is based on the Confucian Bible, Book of Songs, Book of Rites, Book of Changes, Spring and Autumn Period, Tang Kaiyuan and other historical subsets, and embodies the ethnic characteristics of the Han nationality that have remained unchanged for thousands of years. Japanese, Korean and Vietnamese have all enacted laws to emulate China's royal service system. [5]
Hanfu consists of clothes, hats, hairstyles, ornaments, shoes and accessories, which reflects the cultural beliefs of the Han nationality and is a part of the Confucian etiquette system. The core of Han civilization is etiquette culture, which is rooted in the clothing system. As Confucius said in Yi Zhuan, "The Yellow Emperor and Yao Shun ruled the world by hanging down their clothes." The basic characteristics of Hanfu are horizontal collar, right collar, lace-up and wide sleeves, supplemented by vertical collar and straight collar, and buttons are generally not used (only metal buttons are used on a few styles of clothing in Ming Dynasty).
In the early Qing Dynasty, Manchu rulers implemented the policy of shaving hair and changing clothes, forbidding people to wear Hanfu, and Hanfu disappeared from people's lives. At present, there is an upsurge of reviving Hanfu in the society. I hope that through the revival of Hanfu, the people of China can understand the importance of their traditional China culture.
The word "Hanfu" first appeared in Hanshu: "In a few days, I will congratulate you and enjoy the Hanfu system". "Han" here mainly refers to the Han Dynasty, and refers to the dress etiquette system of the Han Dynasty, especially the Confucian etiquette norms based on Zhou Li, Yi Li and Li Ji, because the etiquette system of the Han Dynasty was formulated by Gongsun Tong, the uncle of Emperor Gaozu, according to Zhou Li. [6] The formation of the "Han nationality" is directly related to the Zhou Dynasty and the Han Dynasty. Just as the traditional dress of the Hu people is called "Hu Fu", the traditional dress of the Han people also has the corresponding name "Hanfu". Therefore, the basic connotation of this word was later fixed, that is, the traditional clothing of the Han nationality. At first, it was the name of other nationalities for the traditional costumes of the Han nationality, and later it became a cultural symbol of the self-identity of the Han nationality. During the Song, Yuan and Ming Dynasties, some foreign rulers clearly used "Hanfu" to refer to the national costumes of the Han people. For example, "After Emperor Taizong of Liao entered Jin, both the emperor and the Nanban Han officials used Hanfu; The empress dowager and the northern Khitan courtiers all wore national clothes, and their Hanfu was a legacy of the Five Dynasties and the Jin Dynasty. When the Yuan Dynasty revised the Liao History, it even created a "Hanfu" for the national costumes of the Han people, which was divided into courtiers' sacrificial clothes, court clothes and regular clothes. [7] The "Jin Dynasty Legacy System" and "Hanfu" here belong to the Confucian etiquette and etiquette.
Hanfu "started from the Yellow Emperor and was prepared for Yao and Shun" [8], which originated from the coronation of the Yellow Emperor [9] and was stereotyped in the Zhou Dynasty, and formed a complete service system by respecting Confucianism in Zhou Zong in the Han Dynasty. In ancient times, the six clothes of the Emperor, the six clothes of the Empress, the Confucian clothes and the sword clothes were located in the center of the Hanfu system. The coronation costume is the root of all the costumes in China, which can best reflect the belief of "the Jedi is connected with the sky" in China, and it is also a good costume for the Han people to worship the gods and ancestors for thousands of years.
In the long years of thousands of years, Hanfu has been handed down from generation to generation through China's persistence and innovation in the rites of Zhou. In the eternity of Confucian etiquette system, it also constantly adapts to the needs of the times, resulting in dynasty-style uniforms. The uniforms of different dynasties are different, and each dynasty often has detailed regulations on the colors and styles allowed by each grade, which has obvious dynasty characteristics. [18] Modern Hanfu no longer embodies the hierarchical system, which can be roughly divided into formal clothes and uniforms. Wear formal clothes on formal occasions and uniforms at ordinary times.
ancient times
According to China's ancient books, China's clothes were made by the Yellow Emperor about 5,000 years ago. For example, in the History Book of the Han Dynasty, the courtiers of the Yellow Emperor "Apollo made clothes" and "Hu Cao made crowns". The Book of Changes says that "the Yellow Emperor Yao Shun hangs down his clothes to rule the world". Records of the Five Emperors said that Lei Zu, the wife of the Yellow Emperor, raised silkworms and made silk for clothes. Zhang Shoujie's Historical Records of Justice in the Tang Dynasty records that "Huangdi built houses and made clothes" [19]. According to Wang Yi's machine symbol theory, ancient people made clothes out of animal skins. From Fuxi and Emperor Yan, real clothes appeared, and in the period of the Yellow Emperor, a relatively complete clothing system, such as a crown, appeared. [20]。 This shows that during the legendary Three Emperors and Five Emperors, the Han people (and their ancestors) had a unique clothing system.
Archaeological findings confirmed that bone needles and spinning wheels were found in Peiligang Cultural Site and Baijiacun Site in Lintong, Shaanxi Province seven or eight thousand years ago, indicating that people at that time could already spin cloth and make clothes. By the time of Yangshao culture about 5000 years ago, not only a large number of spinning wheels were found, but also a large number of cloth prints were found on pottery. Ramie and cocoon were also found in the ruins of the same period. It shows that primitive agriculture and textile industry have appeared at this time, and people's clothes are becoming more and more complete. Linen woven from ramie is fed by silkworms. However, the clothing objects of this period have not been found in archaeological excavations so far. [2 1]
[Editor] Xia, Shang and Zhou Dynasties
The clothes of this period inherited the characteristics of ancient times, and there is sufficient physical evidence to prove that the basic characteristics of Hanfu have been determined at this time: horizontal collar, right collar and lace are the most basic typical characteristics, and up and down are the most basic styles. Among the various glyphs of Oracle Bone Inscriptions and Jinwen, the word "Yi" in a common glyph is the image of a shirt with a collar and a right shirt. Xia Dynasty wore black clothes, Shang Dynasty wore white clothes, and Zhou Dynasty compromised Xia Yin system and mysterious clothes. [22] The costume system in Xia, Shang and Zhou Dynasties was Ji Li's crown, leather and knighthood. Jade people unearthed from Yin Ruins in Anyang, Henan Province also wear this kind of clothing, which is the earliest and most complete clothing style unearthed in China. The bottom dress that matches the coat with collar, right slit and lace is a "skirt". The dress under the coat is the most basic style of Hanfu. The word "clothes" is still a general term for clothes in Chinese.
[Editor] Spring and Autumn Period and Warring States Period
During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, clothing generally followed the service system of the Zhou Dynasty, but changed slightly. A hundred schools of thought contend has a certain influence on the perfection of clothing. The crown service system has been brought into the category of "rule by courtesy" and has become a manifestation of etiquette. Since then, China's clothing system has become more detailed.
At this time, the clothes have the characteristics of Hanfu without buttons, usually tied at the waist, and some belts are hung with jade ornaments.
During this period, deep robes appeared, which can be roughly divided into two types: curved edge and straight edge. And a skirt. These are the most common styles of Hanfu in later generations.
[Editor] Qin and Han Dynasties
The costumes in Qin and Han dynasties basically followed the Warring States period, and clothes, deep clothes and curtains were still the main costumes. According to the cutting method, robes can be roughly divided into two types, namely, curved and straight, which can be worn by both men and women. The samurai wore a short coat with a big windbreaker on his small sleeves. [23]
During the Qin and Han Dynasties, Qu Luan robe was the most common female costume. This kind of clothes is tight and narrow, long enough to mop the floor. The hem is generally trumpet-shaped and does not show its feet. The tight tunic with narrow sleeves in the Han Dynasty was wrapped around the hips after several turns, and then tied with ribbons, with exquisite and gorgeous patterns painted on it. Sleeves are wide and narrow, and cuffs are mostly wrapped. Collars are generally crossed and the neckline is very low, so that underwear can be exposed. Wear a few clothes, and the collar of each layer will be exposed, up to more than three layers, which is called "triple clothes".
Due to the popularity of deep clothes, the number of women wearing long skirts has decreased, but it has not disappeared, and there are many descriptions in Han Yuefu's poems. The skirt styles in this period are generally very short, only reaching the waist, while the skirt is very long and hangs to the ground. 1957, the Yan skirt was found in the tomb of Mo Zuizi in Wuwei, Gansu Province.
During the Han Dynasty, China was unprecedentedly prosperous and powerful in culture, economy, politics and military affairs, hence the name of the Han nationality. The dress etiquette system in this period was also very complete, so an idiom "Han Guan Wei Yi" appeared to praise the dress system in Han Dynasty. The name "Hanfu" also indirectly comes from this.
During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, costumes basically inherited the customs of Qin and Han Dynasties. Men's popular big sleeve shirts. Until the Southern Dynasties, this kind of shirt was still loved by men from all walks of life and became a fashion.
Women's dresses in Wei and Jin dynasties inherited the customs of Qin and Han dynasties and improved them on the basis of tradition. Generally speaking, they wear shirts, jackets and flannel, with skirts below. Most styles are frugal on the top and rich on the bottom, with tight clothes, big cuffs, pleated skirts and long and loose hems, achieving a handsome and chic effect.
In the Tang Dynasty, the men's uniform based on robes and mandarin jackets was also called Fu Tou, which was the first kind of clothing formed on the basis of towels and quilts in the Han and Wei Dynasties. In addition to wearing round neck and narrow sleeves, officials still wear dresses on some important occasions, such as sacrificial ceremonies. Most of the styles of dresses have inherited the old system of the previous dynasty, such as wearing a veil or cage crown, a double-breasted sleeve shirt, a skirt and a Yu Pei ribbon.
Women in Sui and Tang Dynasties still wore skirts. During the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, women used small sleeve as shorts and wore tight-fitting long skirts with high waists, usually above the waist, and some even tied ribbons under their armpits, giving people a pretty and slender feeling. The skirts in the middle Tang Dynasty are wider than those in the early Tang Dynasty, and the others have not changed much. In addition, there is a kind of "half-arm", also called "half-sleeve", which is a clothing style born out of short jacket. Generally short-sleeved, double-breasted, waist-length, tied to the chest. There is also a "hooded" style, which is worn by headgear. Half-arm hem can be exposed or stuck inside like a short reed. Silk, also known as "painted silk", is usually woven with a thin layer of yarn with pictures and patterns printed on it. The length is generally more than two meters. When in use, it is draped over the shoulders and rolled between the arms. It's beautiful to walk and jump from time to time. Judging from the murals and terracotta figures handed down from ancient times, underwear (such as a half arm) must be worn inside this kind of clothing, but it cannot be used alone.
The costumes of the Five Dynasties basically followed the costumes of the Tang Dynasty.
In Song Dynasty, Han men's wild clothes followed two traditional styles: wide row, right collar and round neck. In the Song Dynasty, there were two basic styles of Han women's dresses: wide chest and right lap, and double-breasted buttons. Compared with men's wear, women's wear is more diverse and has some wrinkles.
[Editor] Yuan Dynasty
Although the Yuan Dynasty was founded by Mongols, the Mongols did not implement the policy of shaving hair and changing clothes similar to that of the Qing Dynasty, so the people still mainly used Hanfu, but the style was somewhat influenced by some Mongols.
After Zhu Yuanzhang overthrew the Yuan Dynasty, the imperial edict that "the clothing system is as old as the Tang and Song Dynasties", so the clothing style of the Ming Dynasty restored the tradition of Hanfu. Men's wear basically follows two traditional clothing styles: wide chest, right collar and round neck. However, some characteristics of Yuan Dynasty costumes were absorbed, and some special costumes such as Tusa were developed. In the Ming Dynasty, women's dresses were still the mainstay. In addition to shirts, jackets and skirts that have been circulating all the time, fresh styles such as Xia Zi, Xunzi and Gaby are also popular, and the variety, style and workmanship of clothes have reached a peak. [24]。 Buttons appeared in the Ming Dynasty and were widely used in some uniforms. Dresses and official uniforms still use collar-in-collar and collar-in-collar styles without buttons.
1644, Manchu entered the customs, implemented the policy of shaving hair and changing clothes, and prohibited wearing Hanfu, forcing the traditional clothing system of Han nationality to be suspended.
In order to protect cultural relics and clothes, people from all walks of life of the Han nationality rebelled against the policies of the Qing government in various ways. For example, Confucius' descendant Kong Wenshou wrote to Regent Dourgen, asking for the preservation of Confucius' clothes; Zheng Ming Zheng Jing, the son of Zheng Chenggong, called for inheriting the Ming Dynasty and took shaving his head and changing clothes as one of the reasons for refusing to surrender. The people of the whole country revolted against the policy of shaving hair and changing clothes many times, but they were all suppressed by the Qing government. In order to consolidate the rule, the Qing Dynasty also organized officials to study the Biography of Jin Shizong, warning them not to learn the customs of the Han people. From the Northern Wei Dynasty to the Liao, Jin and Yuan Dynasties, "anyone who changed Hanfu died in the world ... anyone who used it once had his own laws, and the so-called ceremony never forgets himself." Since the Northern Wei Dynasty, it has been said that Yi Fu, to the emperors of Liao, Jin and Yuan dynasties, has been eager for a good name. " Once you learn the custom of China, it's like giving your left hand to someone else, "Wait for someone else to cut the meat before eating."
According to legend, there is a folk song "Ten Obediences and Ten Obediences", such as: "Never from birth to death", which means that men should wear Manchu clothes before they die, and they can wear Ming Dynasty clothes after they die; "Men follow women" and "Xian Yi" mean that women and children can change clothes without shaving their heads. [25] However, this is just a folk song, which has never appeared in official orders or express provisions. Moreover, even if some Han costumes were retained, they were gradually enriched by the impact of the mainstream costumes of the ruling authorities. However, until the end of Qing Dynasty, some children's clothes and a few women's clothes still maintained the typical right-collar Hanfu style.
Farmers' uprisings in Qing Dynasty, such as An Baili, Taiping Heavenly Kingdom and Nianjun, all wore a lot of Hanfu. Some Taiping generals refused to mix clothes with Manchu elements, preferring to wear costumes to fight.
[Editor] During the Republic of China
19 10 (Xuantong two years), the high council decided to cut braids and change clothes, and people of all ethnic groups in China began to cut braids. After Yuan Shikai forced Xuantong Emperor to abdicate, the interim government issued a "braid-cutting order". The core figures of the League advocate learning from the West in an all-round way. At that time, China people formally changed to western-style clothes, but did not restore the traditional clothes of the Han nationality. The costumes of Han, Hui, Miao and other ethnic groups banned by the Qing government, as well as some traditional cultures related to costumes, gradually disappeared in real life or survived in a new style after integration. The Han people thought that the cheongsam and mandarin jacket that the Tatars forced them to wear were traditional Chinese costumes.
A few children's clothes still keep the right collar since the Ming Dynasty.
Hanfu has a unique form, and its basic feature is that the collar is straight without buttons. Clothes-related words in Chinese are the characteristics of Hanfu. The structure of Hanfu is divided into 10 parts: collar, lapel, picture frame, sleeve, collar, neck, belt and tie. [26] A complete Hanfu usually has three layers: underwear, underwear and coat. Underwear includes undershirts and leg folds. Chinese clothing includes pants under a coat, a shirt and a bent collar. Coats are usually brightly colored coats, such as deep robes, round neck robes, clothes, pleats, skirts, crotch, half arms, curtains and so on. In addition, there are socks, swimming trunks, belts, jade belts, raccoons, snakes and other accessories.
Hanfu's full set of clothes is divided into: shoes, shoes, shoes, boots and shoes. From then on, Yao Shunyu began to wear clogs. Yi Yin takes grass as shoes and silk as shoes. [27] Zhou people took hemp as their shoes. Clogs are those with teeth under wooden shoes, also called clogs. Jiangnan takes paulownia as the bottom, cattail as the shoe, and hemp pricks its nose. Straw sandals were made by the ministers of the Yellow Emperor, that is, straw sandals [28] boots came from the riding and shooting of Zhao Wuling and Wang.
[Editor] Hanfu's cloth
Hanfu fabrics are divided into: brocade, silk, silk, silk, cloth, cotton, linen, yarn and so on. Zhou Li stipulates that there must be standardized silk and dyeing and weaving personnel to engage in printing and dyeing. Traditional dyeing materials include: safflower, dark plum, reed wood, sappan wood, yellow tiller, melanterite, amaranth blue, Sophora japonica, hawthorn, bayberry peel, Bluetooth leaf, lotus seed shell, mung bean powder and so on. [29] The dyeing of classical fabrics follows the ancient system and embodies China's belief in Yin-Yang and Five Elements. There are six images and six colors. Green is like the wood in the east, red is like the fire in the south, white is like the gold in the west, black is like the water in the north, mysterious is like the sky, and yellow is like the earth. In addition to the six positive colors, there are corresponding intermediate colors:? Yellow-red, purple-green-red, red-red-white, green-green-yellow, light green-white. Intermittent color is also the color system of official uniforms in Tang and Song Dynasties. Official uniforms are divided into five grades: Zhu, Zi, Fei, Qing and Qing.
In addition, there are deep blue and crimson, crimson, crimson, red and yellow, Zhu Shen? .
The heraldry of Hanfu is very rich, and Zhou Li's "taking heraldry as the most precious" [30] represents the beliefs and customs of Han culture. The symbol of clothing culture thought in past dynasties encourages people to be kind, and is full of the meaning of respecting heaven, promoting ancestors and courtesy. The coat of the Yellow Emperor is the earliest coat with heraldry, which means two coats of opposite colors. The Book of Songs says, "When a gentleman stops, clothes must be embroidered, jade must be worn, and he will never forget to take the test." In Yu Huang's twelve emblems of "Moon, Moon, Star, Mountain, Longhua Insect, Zong Yi Algae, Fire, Pink Rice", the sun, the moon and the stars are bright, as if everything happened and developed. Mountain dragon takes sex rain as its profession, and can adapt to touching things and help people match the sky. Ignorance of fire and inflammation of fire emphasize the spirit of understanding and worship ceremony. Like a tiger, Meng Yan; Wisdom is like SHEN WOO's rebellion. Fans. Elephants can be cut down. Elephants betray righteousness, or whether the monarch and the minister can help each other. Secondly, The Book of the New Tang Dynasty, Che Fu Zhi, records the official uniforms of civil servants, including the names of Luan, Crane, Ganoderma lucidum, Magpie, Goose, Handsome Stork and Rehmannia.
[Editor] Collar hand in hand
A horizontal collar refers to the intersection of the front and left sides of a garment. The skirt of Hanfu is generally covered to the right (the left front is covered with the right axillary lace, and the right front is covered inside, which is called right slit), which is called right slit; In ancient China, the costumes of some ethnic minorities were left-lapped, which was called left-lapped. Right-handedness appeared at the beginning of Hanfu's birth and continued all the time, which is the most primitive, basic and core feature of Hanfu. Confucius once said that if Guan Zhong didn't respect the king, we would be ruled by foreigners, with long hair and left-handed clothes like foreigners. 【 3 1 】 It can be seen that the feature of "right-handed" is important.
On the basis of crossing the right neck, the vegetable neck and the straight neck appeared later. The collar, also known as the "round neck", extends to the right shoulder and is tied with a drawstring near the right shoulder. Note that the round neck is also right-handed. Straight collar, also called "reverse collar", the skirts on both sides are almost parallel, but the end is still a right lapel draped over the left lapel, which is close to the collar of modern hanbok, and can be considered as a small right lapel.
[Edit] Tie strap
Hanfu is usually tied with a belt without buttons. Buttons appeared in the late Ming Dynasty, but they were obviously different from Manchu costumes. Buttons in the Ming Dynasty were very small and made of metal, generally in an inconspicuous position, and only a few styles were conspicuous, which were found in women's clothes and a few men's and military uniforms. Manchu costumes are mainly buttons, which are very long and conspicuous, and are widely used in dresses, official uniforms, uniforms and other kinds of costumes.
[edit] clip
Although Hanfu is flat-cut, the materials used are far greater than the need to cover the human body. It looks flat and straight when it is cut, but when it is worn on the human body and tied around the waist, it will show lines different from the human body structure, which are very moving from the front, side and back, and become a smart work of art together with the environment. This is related to China culture's emphasis on the unity of man and nature, and "Everything and I are one" can be said to reflect each other. Therefore, Hanfu not only pays attention to the line modeling of all aspects of the human body, but also pays attention to the relationship between people and the environment, which has become the characteristics of clothing. In the traditional clothing of Han nationality, the big sleeves of aristocratic clothing are not only the width of sleeve diameter, but also the length of sleeve. After the sleeves of officials and old people reach their hands, they can save considerable length. When the sleeve diameter of Hanfu is wide, it can reach four feet. This wide cut makes Hanfu form a flowing streamline after wearing it, which moves with the wind without procrastination, giving people a free and easy feeling.
From the modeling point of view, the basic styles of Hanfu are mainly as follows: upper and lower skirts (upper and lower are separated, and upper and lower skirts are worn), upper and lower stitching (upper and lower skirts are sewn together), and upper and lower pants. Under the basic style, hundreds of styles are deduced because of the different changes in neckline, sleeve type, waist circumference, cutting and matching. Although Hanfu has developed a variety of styles, its basic characteristics remain unchanged, which can be described as "unchanged from its fundamentals".
Let's introduce the basic style of Hanfu. Please refer to the list of Hanfu for details.
[Edit] Top-down style
The dress under the coat is the most basic style of Hanfu. The word "clothes" is still a general term for clothes in Chinese. Among them, "Shang" (pronounced cháng here) refers to the lower skirt, which can be worn by both men and women in ancient times. Later, men gradually changed into robes as daily clothes, and the styles of tops and bottoms remained in their dresses, such as coronation. Women are still dominated by the style of upper clothes and lower skirts, which is called skirts.
Coronation is the most solemn and formal dress for emperors and officials. From the period of "the Yellow Emperor ruled the world by hanging down his clothes" to the Ming Dynasty, the shape remained basically unchanged.