Modern times began after the 1984 Opium War, when it was still the Qing Dynasty. In Qing Dynasty, Manchu costumes were the mainstream. The costumes of the upper and lower classes of the two generations have obvious grades. The official dress of the upper class is a symbol of power, which has always been valued by the ruling class. Since the Tang and Song Dynasties, robes and yellow have been exclusively used by the royal family. Since the Southern and Northern Dynasties, purple is the most expensive. In the Ming Dynasty, because the emperor's surname was Zhu, Zhu was the positive color, and because the Analects of Confucius had "evil purple to take Zhu also", purple was abolished from official uniforms. The most distinctive feature is to use "tonic" to express the grade. The patch is a piece of silk about 40 ~ 50 cm square, embroidered with different patterns, and then sewn on the official clothes, one on the chest and one on the back. Civil servants use birds as a supplement, and military officers use animals, which are divided into nine categories. Usually, T-shirts are distinguished by the length of clothes and the size of sleeves, and the old ones are the most respected. The main first clothes of officials in Ming Dynasty are slightly different from those in Song and Yuan Dynasties. The emperor wore black gauze and folded towels, and the wings of his hat stood up from behind. The official robe wears lacquered yarn with spreading wings and often wears his duties. The wives and mothers of the banned officials also have red big sleeve dresses with different stripes and decorations and various summer shawls. In addition, high heels have been used by upper-class women, which are divided into high heels and high heels. In the Ming Dynasty, people's clothes were long and short, including shirts or skirts, which basically inherited the old tradition and had a very rich variety. In terms of dress color, civilian wives and daughters can only wear purple, green, pink and other colors to avoid mixing with official clothes; Working people are only allowed to use brown. Apart from the old hats that have been popular since the Tang and Song Dynasties, Zhu Yuanzhang personally formulated two kinds of hats, which were promulgated throughout the country and used by ordinary people. One is a square barrel-shaped black lacquer gauze cap, called a square nipple; One is a hemispherical hat composed of six pieces, called Liuhe unified hat, which means equality in all countries and unity in the world. The latter, commonly known as melon skin hat, is made of black velvet and satin. During the Qing dynasty, shaving and changing clothes were carried out by violent means, and men's clothes were unified according to Manchu customs. In the ninth year of Shunzhi (1652), the regulations on wearing colored epaulettes were promulgated, abolishing the crown clothes with strong colors of Han nationality. In the Ming Dynasty, all men wore their hair in a bun and wore loose clothes, stockings and pumps. In the Qing dynasty, the hair was shaved into braids, and the braids hung behind the head, wearing thin horseshoe cufflinks and tight socks and deep boots. However, according to the law, official and folk costumes are completely different. The main variety of official uniforms in Qing dynasty is robes and mandarin jackets. Official hats are completely different from those of previous dynasties. All military and political personnel, such as non-commissioned officers and officers, wear small weft hats similar to hats, which are divided into warm hats and cool hats in winter and summer. According to different grades, they are fitted with "coats" of different colors and materials, and a bunch of peacock feathers are dragged behind the hat. Ling is called Hualing. There are "eyes" (round spots on feathers) on the senior ling, which can be divided into one eye, two eyes and three eyes. More eyes are more expensive, and only princes or ministers with outstanding achievements are rewarded. The emperor sometimes wears a yellow jacket to show his special affection. As far as the influence is concerned, mandarin jackets of other colors have gradually become popular among officials and gentry, and become ordinary costumes. Officials above grade four or five still hang beads of Buddha around their necks, which are made of all kinds of precious stones and fragrant wood, which constitutes another feature of official uniforms in the Qing Dynasty. The progress of silk weaving, embroidery, printing and dyeing and various manual occupations created conditions for the richness of clothing varieties in the Qing Dynasty. The development of women's wear in Qing dynasty, Han nationality and Manchu nationality was different. During Kang Yong period, Han women kept Ming style, while clothes and long skirts were popular in small sleeve. After finishing, the clothes are getting fatter and shorter, the cuffs are getting wider and wider, and with the cloud shoulders, the pattern renovation is endless; By the end of the Qing Dynasty, urban women had put on skirts and trousers, which were inlaid with lace and rolled teeth, and most expensive clothes were spent on them. Manchu women wear "flag clothes", comb the flag bun (commonly known as two ends) and wear "flowerpot bottom" flag shoes. As for the so-called cheongsam circulated in later generations, it has long been mainly used in the court and the royal family. In the late Qing dynasty, cheongsam was also imitated by the ladies of the Han nationality. Modern Costume (since 19 12) The Revolution of 1911 ended the feudal monarchy for more than 2,000 years, and the costume of the Chinese nation entered a new era. Prior to this, the reformist Kang Youwei wrote to Foreign Minister Wu Chunian in 1894 to reform the service system and service style; China students also put on their suits. With the strengthening of communication between China and foreign countries, colorful clothes have finally washed away the hierarchical concept of clothes. Traditional robes, shirts, jackets, trousers and skirts are increasingly influenced by western clothing and replaced by many new varieties and styles. 1 menswear. In the early years of the Republic of China, suits and ties went hand in hand with robes and jackets. Wearing a hat is considered to be the most solemn dress, whether it is a Chinese suit or a western suit. Chinese tunic suit appeared around 1920s, and gradually became popular in cities. The vast rural areas have always followed the traditional coat pants, wearing felt hats or top hats, and wearing their own sewn cloth shoes. 2 women's wear. The Revolution of 1911 brought about diversification. Besides coats and trousers, I wore more coats and skirts. Since the 1920s, women have loved cheongsam, which has gradually become a fashion. After the founding of the People's Republic of China, clothing advocated simplicity and practicality. From 1950s to 1970s, Zhongshan suit gradually became the main clothing for men. In addition, military casual clothes and civilian clothes were also very popular. Women's wear was influenced by the Soviet Union, and dresses were popular in cities. Besides, Lenin's clothes are very popular. But in rural areas, it has always been the traditional dress of most farmers. After 1978, China implemented the policy of reform and opening up, which reflected the spirit of the times, and costumes with China national characteristics mushroomed and took on a new look.