In fact, in ancient China, there was a debate about the "prohibition and release" of women's clothing. For example, some people think that "poverty" in Han dynasty is a kind of restrictive freedom; For another example, Tang Gaozong once issued a "no-show" order for "bare breasts" ... In the deep dress "The Lady of Guo You Chun Tu" unearthed from the No.1 Han Tomb in Mawangdui, Changsha, the lady of Guo in the mural tomb in Dingjiazha, Jiuquan was wearing a skirt. Do women in the Tang Dynasty wear open-backed pants in the murals of Cave 329 in Dunhuang Grottoes? In the traditional impression of "no work, no summer clothes", ancient women in China seem to know nothing about fashion. They all wrapped themselves up and hid their hands in long sleeves. This impression may come from "deep clothes", the most traditional dress in China. Deep clothing is a kind of clothing that is connected with the top and bottom clothes. From then on, the gown and cheongsam were deduced. When wearing a deep coat, you often wear a knee-high coat inside, which is the most primitive prototype of pants. Then, what about the statement that "women in the Han Dynasty wore open-backed pants"? In fact, early people in China didn't wear pants. The so-called shin guards today only have the function of stockings and only two trouser legs. Pants are big and waist-free, and the upper end is tied around the waist with a belt. This kind of trousers naturally has no crotch, or is open crotch. It can be seen that the statement that "women in the Han Dynasty wore open-backed pants" is not catching shadows. In fact, in the Qin and Han dynasties, not only women but also men wore open-backed pants, and some people even didn't wear open-backed pants inside. Did the ancients in China really wear open-backed pants to the streets? Judging from historical data, this is what modern people take for granted. Because this kind of open-backed pants is not only worn, but also wears two "petticoats" outside, which is apron-style clothing. Although the crotch pants are covered with the lower body, it is still easy to expose the lower body and lead to "exposure". Therefore, it was clearly stipulated in the Code of Conduct for Citizens at that time that it was impolite and "disrespectful" not to take off your clothes easily unless crossing the river. In the Book of Rites Quli, the so-called "not naked when working, not naked in midsummer". Does "poverty" appear to restrict freedom? "Although the imperial envoys were all poor," it was not without pants at that time. The crotch is called "crotch", which is a kind of "Hufu". Originally, it was the daily clothing of residents in the western regions, which was convenient for riding and shooting. Hu clothing was generally accepted by the people in the Central Plains during the Warring States Period, and combined with the style of shin clothing, it developed into "clothing" and became the clothing of soldiers and laborers. Short summer wear, commonly known as "calf nose", is actually today's briefs, which were worn by Sima Xiangru and Zhuo Wenjun when they were drinking. Until the Han Dynasty, elites didn't like shackles. Before Emperor Zhao Di of the Han Dynasty, concubines in the harem wore open-backed pants every day. Open-crotch pants brought great convenience to the emperor anytime and anywhere, which may be one of the reasons why the beautiful women in the palace love to wear open-crotch pants tacitly. After the death of Emperor Gaozu Liu Che, his youngest son, Liu Fuling (Emperor Zhao of Han Dynasty), who was only 8 years old, became emperor, and the granddaughter of Huo Guangnian, a 6-year-old court assistant, became queen. Huo Guang saw that open-backed pants were full of temptations, which made it easy for the emperor to indulge himself. In order to ensure that his granddaughter is pampered and pregnant early, he forbids his concubines to wear open-backed pants, and even maids are not allowed to wear "poor pants" that sew their crotch. This is the so-called biography of the consorts of the Han Dynasty. "I just want the queen to be spoiled and have children ... Although the imperial envoys are poor and bring a lot, there is no one in the harem." "Poor Kun" is actually open-crotch pants. Different from over-the-knee pants, when it comes to the thigh, it is connected into a crotch between the two strands. However, the crotch is not stitched, tied with cloth strips, and the crotch is still open, just like the zipper of modern pants, which is convenient for private drowning. Therefore, Huo Guang asked the harem to wear the crotch and fasten the belt at the same time, so the crotch is also called "pants", which was called "crotch pants" in the Tang Dynasty. Huo Guang's move is actually a disguised restriction on the sexual freedom of Emperor Gaozu Zhao Di. Unexpectedly, it brought a great change in the history of China's clothing. Pant pants with similar functions to modern pants are widely popular, and there is another choice to wear pants outside. Women in the Tang Dynasty were keen on "topless clothes"? "Half-sleeve skirt" is a revealing skirt in The History of Oriental Maids. It seems to be the dress element of modern avant-garde women, and it is also everyone's feeling about summer women's clothing. In fact, women in modern China dare not "show off" like women in the Tang Dynasty, whether they are "thin" or "transparent". In the Tang dynasty, women were very good at wearing clothes, which was very distinctive. Tops include small sleeve clothes, wide-sleeved shirts, and bottoms include various skirts. The most striking is the "half-arm" dress and the "topless" dress, which was the sexiest women's dress at that time. Half-sleeve, popularly speaking, is an ancient short-sleeved shirt, also called half-arm, which was changed from the "half-sleeve" style in Han and Wei Dynasties. It was quite avant-garde at that time, and it was a breakthrough in dress. Its shape is double-breasted, the sleeves don't cover elbows, and the length is waist-length. If it is worn with a skirt, it is called a "half-sleeve skirt", which is often worn by women in the harem of Emperor Yang Guang Yang Di. In the Tang Dynasty, half sleeves were still loved by court women. "The Book of the New Tang Dynasty, Che Fuzhi" records that "those who wear half sleeves often worship the history of women in the East Palace." This kind of dress is often found in the archaeology of the Tang Dynasty, and women with half sleeves can also be seen in the murals of Princess Yongtai's tomb and Prince Zhang Huai's tomb in the Tang Dynasty. More breakthrough than half sleeves is the "topless" dress. This is a fashion with bold neckline reform, which has changed the traditional openings of round neck, square collar, oblique collar, straight collar and chicken heart collar, increased the opening scale, and cut it into a "naked collar" to expose nearly half of the breasts, making them full and half hidden. The movie "Golden Flower in the City" directed by Zhang Yimou was dubbed "Golden Milk in the City" by netizens when it was released. Is it inspired by this topless dress? "Skirts" were popular among ancient women? Of all the clothes, skirts were worn most by ancient women in China in summer. Skirts are also one of the most traditional women's dresses. Women in ancient China also liked to wear skirts, and they also wore many classic skirts. In ancient China, the most classic way for women to dress was "skirt dress". Skirts were originally a popular clothing style in Zhongshan during the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. Hey, it's a short coat, reaching the waist and the sleeves are tight; Skirts, that is, skirts, are made of many pieces of cloth with plaid patterns woven on them, and are often worn by reeds. This collocation of short skirts and long skirts has a great influence on the costume culture in ancient China, and modern girls like this collocation. Different dynasties have their own styles. In the Han dynasty, the skirts worn by ordinary people did not need any ornamentation and edges, so they were also called "no skirts". Miss skirt was the most beautiful summer dress in the eyes of peasant girls. It is knee-length and wears an apron. Qin Luofu, a mulberry-picking girl described in the poem "Shang Mo Sang" by Han Yuefu, was dressed in this way: "Under the skirt Qi Qi, on the skirt Qi." Women in Song Dynasty like skirts with fine pleats. The most fashionable skirt is called "revolving skirt", which is convenient for riding horses and donkeys. It is said that this is the "signature skirt" of Beijing brothel women. Because it is both beautiful and practical, it was favored by women in the Song Dynasty. In the Ming Dynasty, there were more patterns of women's skirts, such as full satin "Yuehua skirt", "Phoenix tail skirt", "Acacia skirt" and "pleated skirt". The front of this skirt is flat without pleats, surrounded by decorative lace, full of colorful embroidery patterns, and there are fine pleats on the left and right sides, with at most 150 or 60 pleats. Tang Gaozong issued the order of "not revealing"? Baer Hua Kai and Chest Like Snow are quite eye-catching, and the romantic literati in the Tang Dynasty often wrote and wrote: "Shimada Hanzo with pink chest is suspicious of sunny snow, and his eyes are inclined to return to the knife." (Fang Gan) "Draw your eyes around the cicada and leave a snow chest." (Shi Jianwu) ... all the beautiful women in the Tang Dynasty were described in scanty clothes. Modern archaeological discoveries confirmed what the poet saw. In the tomb of a German prince excavated in 197 1, the ladies-in-waiting carved on the stone eaves wore wide-necked shirts with bare breasts and cleavage. On the mural of Tang Wei's tomb discovered in 1958, a girl was wearing a thin sweater, half-naked with her chest. As early as the early Tang Dynasty, the "topless skirt" had been worn away. Ou Yangxun, one of the "Four Masters" in the early Tang Dynasty, said that "twenty-eight flowers bloom, and the chest is like snowflakes". If the poet didn't see those white breasts with his own eyes, could he have such a vivid description? This fashion became more popular when Li Zhi (Tang Gaozong) proclaimed himself emperor, and women "dragged their skirts around their necks and gradually revealed themselves". Women's breasts are too exposed, which conflicts with traditional aesthetics after all. To this end, Li Zhi ordered his subjects to dress appropriately twice, which shows how avant-garde and trendy women were at that time. At that time, Wu Zetian, the "mother of the country" and later emperor of the Zhou Dynasty, liked to follow the fashion. Although "not revealing" has been effective for a while, it is still "spinning". Finally, even female providers dare to be thin, transparent and exposed. For example, in Cave 329 of Dunhuang Mural, there is a young woman sitting on a flower, wearing a Luo shirt, and her breasts are visible. "Fall at the pomegranate skirt" codes out Yang Guifei? There are three most famous skirts in China's clothing history: the most legendary one is called "Fairy Skirt", which was worn by Zhao in Han Dynasty. This skirt is pleated. It is said that one day, Zhao Yanfei wore a colorful purple skirt, and Liu Ao, the Emperor of the Han Dynasty, took a boat carrying thousands of people and swam in Taiye Pool. When dancing, a strong wind suddenly blew on the lake, blowing Zhao into the sky. The maid-in-waiting caught her skirt in time, and as a result, many wrinkles were pulled out of the beautiful skirt. Surprisingly, the skirt looks better, and the "fairy skirt" has become famous since then. The above is Han's literary interpretation in Zhao Chuanqi, but he made a famous dress. The most valuable one is called "Hundred Birds Skirt", which was worn by Princess Anle, the daughter of Tang Zhongzong. This skirt, also called "wool skirt", is made of the feathers of hundreds of birds, and it is expensive. It's a veritable sky-high dress. According to the records of the Five Elements of the New Tang Dynasty, under different angles and different light, skirts will show different colors and can also show the shape of a hundred birds. Only 200 bird skirts were knitted at that time. Since then, rich women have followed suit and plucked all the feathers of rare birds and animals at once. The most romantic one is called "pomegranate skirt", which was found in the Southern Dynasties. Narrow on the top and wide on the bottom, bright red in color and strong in contrast. Bai Juyi called it "blood skirt". At that time, actresses in the entertainment circle liked it very much. At that time, the poet Wan Chu wrote in "Five Days of Visiting Prostitutes" that a geisha wears a pomegranate skirt: "Mei Dai wins the color of day lily, and a red skirt envies pomegranate flowers". Yang Guifei loves to wear pomegranate skirts, and Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty even stipulated that courtiers should bow down when they saw Yang Guifei, and the story of "falling under pomegranate skirts" came from this.