Characteristics of costumes in Yuan Dynasty
The Yuan Dynasty was an era of ethnic integration in China's history, and costumes also fully reflected this feature. Genghis Khan, the ancestor of the Yuan Dynasty, established the khanate in 1206. After the destruction of Xixia and Jin, the ethnic composition was mainly Mongolian. In the Yuan Dynasty, the textile industry and handicraft industry were greatly damaged due to the sharp ethnic contradictions. It wasn't until the Yuan Yingzong period of 132 1 that Song Ti was used in court clothes for a long time, and referring to the ancient system, Tian Zi and Guan Bai's coats were formulated, which were connected with the top coat, tied tightly with the bottom coat, padded at the waist and hung with big beads on their shoulders. Drying clothes? Han said, system? A color of clothes? Or? Drying clothes? . This is a clothing system that inherits the Han nationality and has Mongolian characteristics.
The Yuan Dynasty was ruled by Mongols, so the costumes of the Yuan Dynasty were also quite special. Mongolians often braid a small lock of hair on their foreheads, like peaches. Others braid it into two braids, and then wrap it into two big rings to hang behind their ears, wearing Dai Li hats on their heads. What are the main costumes of people in Yuan Dynasty? Drying clothes? This is a short robe, tight and narrow, with many pleats at the waist. This kind of clothes is very convenient to get on and off the horse. The Yuan Dynasty was dominated by robes. The daily clothes of officials and scholars are mostly narrow-sleeved robes. In addition, in the grand banquet activities of the Yuan Dynasty, the officials of the Emperor of Heaven had to wear uniform colors. What was this called? Drying clothes? According to ancient records, the clothes of the Emperor of Heaven have many styles, including winter clothes 1 1 and summer clothes 15.
Noble women in the Yuan Dynasty often wore a tall and strange hat. This kind of hat is called. Crown? . The robes they wear are wide and long, which makes it inconvenient to walk. They often need two maids to pull their robes behind them. Ordinary civilian women wear black robes.
The Structure of Clothing in Yuan Dynasty
? Drying clothes? It has a wide range of uses, and ministers can wear it at banquets in the palace, as well as musicians and guards. The difference between the upper and lower layers of this kind of clothing is reflected in the difference in texture and thickness. There are fifteen grades in Tian Zi (graded by quality), and the raw materials and colors used in each grade are completely unified, and the clothes and hats are consistent, so the overall effect is excellent. For example, if the clothes are cut into velvet, their hats must be warm hats; If the clothes are white leather, the hat must be a platinum warm hat. There are fifteen grades of summer clothes in Tian Zi, which are similar to winter clothes. There are nine grades in winter clothes and fourteen grades in summer clothes, which are also distinguished by texture and color.
? Even? 、? Than one? It is also a secret institution. ? Even? It is a kind of leather coat slightly longer than the jacket, which was called by Mongols in Yuan Dynasty. Xunzi suddenly answered? . ? Than one? Good riding clothes, sleeveless and collarless, short in front and long in back, casual clothes connected by loops. In the Yuan Dynasty, the official dress of men followed the custom of Han nationality, and it was also the custom of women to wear a short-sleeved shirt outside the official dress (called a half-arm skirt).
The official uniforms of the Yuan Dynasty pay attention to color first, and they are all unified, so they are called? Monochrome suit? . In the Yuan Dynasty, Sun Yi was first used exclusively by emperors, and later became the clothing of officials and guards. "Yuan history? Meaning of jade symbol:? Sun Tzu wore Hanfu of the same color, but it was at a grand banquet in the inner court. The clothes in winter and summer are different, but they are not customized. All ministers who are closely related to Minister Xun Qi are given to them. ? While absorbing the clothing system of the Han nationality, we have formulated in detail the colors of courtiers' clothing equivalent to the national laws, which have been officially used to celebrate Tianshou Holy Day since August of the eighth year of Yuan Dynasty. Suddenly it has a chapter, but its level is orderly. Crown car? Generally speaking, we should consider the past and present, gain and loss at any time, and keep the state system for use. ? Since the Sui and Tang Dynasties, yellow has been associated with imperial costumes. Yu Fuzhi "contains? It is forbidden for ordinary people to make clothes in red and yellow. , the yuan dynasty had clearly? Shu Ren must not bring ochre yellow? (Yuan Shi Yu Fu Zhi). It seems that the Mongolian emperors in the Yuan Dynasty often wore yellow imperial clothes, but not every day. So-called? Monochrome suit? It refers to wearing clothes of one color at a dinner party. Emperors and officials have 13 colors of clothes.
Clothing in yuan dynasty
There are 13 colors of official uniforms given by the emperors of the Yuan Dynasty. Wear a color every time you attend a state banquet or a large state event. In addition to 13 color clothes, an antelope belt decorated with gold and silver silk (golden belt) is also very valuable, and a pair of camel leather boots called Briar are also presented. The boots are embroidered with silver silk, which is quite ingenious. In short, the clothes given by the Yuan Dynasty are exquisite in workmanship, exquisite in materials (brocade robes) and expensive in decoration. However, it must be clear that the official uniforms of the Yuan Dynasty were not given to 13 times a year, but once. ? Needless to say, it will be updated every year and will be clothed until 10. ?
According to the regulations of the Yuan government, we inherited the previous generation, such as coronation clothes, official uniforms, clothes, utensils, wagons, saddles, etc. , have strict grades, also not arrogant. At the same time, it is stipulated that neither Mongolians nor those who are afraid of learning are prohibited? Wait (Yuan Shi? The meaning of jade symbols).
In the palace, because of the different jobs of assistant ministers, guards and ordinary small officials, their costumes are also different. For example, these two men, Hu Lang, have straight palms, a bachelor's hat, a purple shirt with narrow sleeves, a gold belt and black boots. The drinkers are all 60 people, and the main wine language is red. Crown Tang hat, take the same fragrance. Forty guards, taking photos with protons in Solvay. Proton, see Lu Hua in Mandarin. With a bow and arrow, a sword, a purple plum blossom narrow sleeve shirt, a gold belt, a white brocade hip, a bone flower, a separation between east and west. There are three policemen in control of the crane guards. I was wearing a purple shirt with narrow sleeves, a gold-plated belt and a pair of black boots, standing on the open steps. Every time I travel in and out, I will sound a whip to warn the public. Where the court is held, there will be strict attendance and etiquette. Wear a white hat, a white coat, walk, wear socks, or take the public service of its products and stand up respectfully. There are four people in each case, and the first two are crowned with flowers, narrow sleeves, gold belts, shoes and socks; The last two wore the same crowns as before, but their coats were blue. There are ten people, and Atachi is spoken in Mandarin. Guan Tang scarf, purple Luo narrow sleeve shirt, green brocade edge white brocade sweat crotch, copper belt, black boots. Know the class, wear a hat, a purple shirt with narrow sleeves, a gold-plated belt and black boots.
There are eight people in Huang Huizhan's 440. Their crowns and costumes are different, that is, wearing horns, colorful robes, silk and black boots; Guan Wuyi, serving the former; In the third column, there are 10 people holding yellow flags, carrying weapons, wearing green robes, green silk and black boots. Ten people were led by a crimson flag. They were armed with weapons, colorful robes, silk and black boots. There are ten believers, with the same crown and yellow color. There are ten people holding the missionary's flag, wearing the same crown as above, and the color is white. Ten people were sued and stopped, with the same crown and purple color. In the next four columns, 40 people are being held, armed and wearing scarlet robes, silk and black boots. There are forty people who hold the axe, with the same crown as above, and its color is yellow. Forty people hold the small dragon's palm, with the same crown as above, and the color is blue. So is the left column. The north is the best. Bet on four people, according to the test in the war, and win the championship with the police.
There are eight people in every 520, divided into two columns. On the left front, the Taiping flag in the world is the first and the Yamen flag is the second. Each flag has a flag bearer and four guards, all of which are colorful scarves, colorful robes, silk, cloud boots, the flag bearer's sword and the guards' bows and arrows; There are five people in the back screen, holding hands, Zhu Dou, and Yuntou boots.
The official uniforms of the Yuan Dynasty also had ranks. For example, two people, Si Chen Lang, one is standing in the left building, offering six products, while the chickens are singing in the north; A man is standing downstairs, holding eight products, and when he waits, he kneels down with a tooth card to report. Everyone in the class knows that others have borrowed four clothes. According to Yuan Shi? Guan Baizhi and Yuan Shi? According to "Jade Fu Zhi", in Yuan Dynasty, it was stipulated that one to five senses wore purple robes, six to seven officials wore scarlet robes, and eight to nine officials wore green robes.
Women's wear in Yuan Dynasty was divided into two styles: noble and civilian. Most of the nobles are Mongolians, wearing fur coats and hats as national costumes. Mink and sheepskin clothes are widely used, and the styles are mostly wide robes. The cuffs are narrow and the sleeves are wide and fat. Because the length of clothes mops the floor, when your wife goes out to play, she must be led by a slave. This robe-style shoulder has a cloud shoulder. What is it called? Gold embroidered cloud shoulder jade tassel? , very beautiful. As a gown, the fabric texture is very elegant, using big red brocade, velvet and very long felt fabric. The most popular colors at that time were red, yellow, green, brown, rose, purple and gold.
In the Yuan Dynasty, it was quite common for civilian women to wear skirts and half-arms of the Han nationality. The appearance of Hanfu often appears on the dancers in the palace, and the narrow sleeves and caps of the Tang Dynasty have also been preserved. In addition, influenced by neighboring North Korea, aristocratic empresses in Beijing also have the custom of imitating Korean women's clothing.
Men's wear:
Coronation ceremony:
The crown of the emperor.
The crown prince's uniform
Public service: hundreds of officials wear it when they salute.
Uniform: the main clothing of the upper class in Yuan Dynasty.
In the Yuan Dynasty, braided hair was tied.