A, silk fabrics have good tensile strength and elasticity, but poor wrinkle resistance.
B. Silk fabrics have good hygroscopicity, dyeability and luster, and the dyed fabrics are bright in color. Its water content can reach 1 1~ 12%.
C, silk fabrics are acid-resistant and alkali-resistant. It is stable to inorganic acid (concentrated inorganic acid can hydrolyze silk) and sensitive to alkali reaction, but it is more stable than wool. Use neutral or weakly acidic detergent when washing.
D, the burning performance of silk fabrics is the same as wool, giving off the smell of singeing (because they are all protein fibers). The heat resistance is higher than that of cotton and woolen cloth, and it is almost unaffected at 120℃.
E, silk fabrics have poor optical rotation resistance, so we should pay attention to sun protection to avoid yellowing.
F, the mildew resistance of silk fabric is better than cotton, woolen cloth and viscose fiber.
Silk fabric is a kind of high-grade clothing material, which is mainly made of natural silk fiber and various rayon and synthetic fiber yarns. With the characteristics of softness, smoothness and bright luster, it is comfortable, gorgeous and noble to wear. According to its structure and appearance, silk fabrics can be divided into fourteen categories, namely, spinning, twill, satin, crepe, silk, silk, yarn, yarn, silk, brocade, tweed and velvet. There are many varieties in each category. Here are the main varieties.
(1) Spinning: refers to plain fabric woven with mulberry silk, spun silk and rayon as raw materials. Generally, warp and weft are not twisted or weakly twisted, and then the fabric is dyed or printed. Textile fabrics are light and thin, and the cloth surface is smooth and delicate. Common varieties are electrospinning, Hangzhou spinning, spun silk spinning, colored plaid spinning, Fuchun spinning, Huachun spinning, matt spinning, smooth spinning and so on.
Electrospinning: Woven from raw silk of silkworm. The texture is dense, delicate, clean, glossy, light and smooth, more elegant and cool than silk and denser than yarn. Suitable for making shirts, skirts and sweaters for men and women in summer.
Hangfang: named after its origin in Hangzhou, it belongs to the fabric woven from raw silk and silkworm. There is no difference between the front and back of the fabric. Silk clothing is thick, soft and crisp, comfortable and cool to wear, and it is the material of shirts, skirts, pants and so on in summer.
Silk spinning: a silk fabric woven from pure silk. It has the characteristics of plump and soft texture, simple texture, soft luster and pleasant touch, and has good hygroscopicity and breathability. Mainly used for making summer clothes, mostly for export.
Tussah spun silk: woven from tussah spun silk, similar to mulberry silk. Rich in texture, waxy, slightly rougher in hand than mulberry silk, and slightly brown in silk surface. Can be used as spring and autumn clothing or decorative silk.
Fuchun spinning: a woven fabric made of viscose and rayon, which can be divided into plain weave, printed and bleached varieties. Rich in texture, soft to the touch, and the cloth surface presents transverse thin strips (because the warp yarns are thin and the weft yarns are thick). Suitable for summer clothes or bedding fabrics, and can also be used as winter cotton-padded clothes fabrics. Its disadvantages are poor wet strength, large shrinkage and easy wrinkling, so it must be pre-shrunk or graded before production.
(2) Satin: Satin fabrics woven from mulberry silk or rayon are divided into warp satin and weft satin. Generally speaking, warp yarns are not twisted or twisted less. Satin fabric has the characteristics of bright and smooth appearance, but it is not wear-resistant and easy to fluff. Common varieties are: plain satin, floral satin, Jiuxia satin, Huaguang satin, embroidered brocade, suede satin and so on.
Plain satin: a satin-like fabric made of mulberry silk or mulberry silk interwoven with rayon. It has the characteristics of great difference in density between warp and weft, soft texture, bright satin and no flowers. Mainly used in quilts, women's clothes, children's clothes, or processed into handicrafts, clothing and so on.
Satin: Jacquard satin fabric made of real silk and rayon. It has the characteristics of soft and smooth texture, bright and prominent patterns and exquisite. Satin is divided into two kinds according to the size of the pattern: large flowers and small flowers. Mainly used for making women's and children's clothing and ethnic minority clothing.
Jiuxia satin: It is a pure mulberry jacquard fabric with plain weft crepe, that is, the warp yarn is made of two combined yarns, and the weft yarn is made of strong twisted yarns with alternating 2S and 2Z twists. It has the characteristics of bright and soft color, soft and elastic texture, especially crepe effect and dull luster, so the pattern is particularly bright and bright, which is the origin of the name of Jiuxia satin. This kind of satin is usually dyed in dark and light colors and is one of the best materials for making women's clothes.
Hua Guangling: It is a pure mulberry jacquard satin fabric with single warp and single weft. Therefore, this kind of fabric presents eight weft satin patterns on eight warp satin floors, which has the characteristics of smooth silk surface, soft texture and uniform pattern distribution.
(3) Silk: refers to all kinds of flowers and plain silk fabrics woven or interwoven with mulberry silk, rayon, synthetic silk, etc., which have no other characteristics of silk-like fabrics and generally adopt plain weave or various varied textures. Silk fabrics are slightly thicker than textiles, but their varieties are different in weight and thickness. Lightweight silk fabrics are soft and elastic, and are often used for shirts and skirts. Medium-thick silk fabrics are rich in layers and flat and thick in texture, which are suitable for making all kinds of high-grade clothes, such as suits and dresses, or for interior decoration. Common varieties are: double palace silk, cotton silk, Datong silk, four seasons material, taffeta, flower spring and so on.
Taffeta: High-grade silk woven with plain weave, with higher density than ordinary silk fabric. It has the characteristics of dense texture, fine and smooth silk surface, smooth and beautiful, soft and natural luster and not easy to get dirty. The disadvantage is that it is easy to wrinkle, and the crease is not easy to recover after folding. Suitable for summer clothing and accessories, headscarves, umbrella cloth and other materials.
Double palace silk: pure mulberry silk plain weave fabric with double palace silk as weft. Because the warp yarns are thin and thick, the surface of silk presents uniform and irregular coarse knots, with tight and crisp texture and soft color, which can be divided into yarn-dyed and white woven. Gong Shuang silk is suitable for suit fabrics and decorative silk, and can also be used for wall decoration. Pay attention to the phenomenon of silk threading when using, because there is obvious difference between fine warp and coarse weft. Gong Shuang silk is one of the most popular varieties in the world.
Filament: also known as "filament", it is a traditional product in Hangzhou and Shaoxing, Zhejiang Province. It is a plain jacquard fabric woven from pure mulberry silk or mulberry silk and cotton yarn. The characteristics of flower spring fabric are: the fabric is covered with flower patterns all over the floor, with compact structure, thick and tough texture and soft and rich luster. Coats, dresses, men's and women's clothes, etc. suitable for ethnic minorities.
Siji: A plain silk fabric made of tussah silk and tussah silk. Its characteristics are: light and soft texture, soft luster, not only the jewel luster of silk, but also the feel similar to wool, and at the same time, it has good hygroscopicity and breathability. Its products are mostly dyed silk and white silk, which are suitable for all kinds of men's and women's clothing, especially for dresses, ties and high-grade underwear.
(4) Crepe: A silk fabric with elastic appearance and small crepe effect, which is woven by the method of silk thread strengthening twist or crepe weave, is called crepe fabric. There are many kinds of crepes, most of which are plain weave, including medium-thin crepes, flower crepes, blue crepes, medium-thick satin crepes and fragrant crepes.
Crepe: A crepe-like fabric woven with plain weave and plain warp. It uses two kinds of strong twist weft yarns with different twist directions to weave alternately with ZS and ZZ, forming faintly visible uniform flash fine scales on the cloth surface, which has a unique style. It has the characteristics of softness, elasticity, lightness and coolness, and belongs to middle and high-grade silk varieties. However, the shrinkage rate is large, so attention should be paid to pre-shrinkage or calibration rate before production. After bleaching, dyeing and printing, crepe is widely used and suitable for making shirts, skirts, headdresses and embroidered clothes.
Crepe de Chine: The weave is similar to crepe de Chine, except that the weft yarn consists of three twisted yarns and spiral monofilaments, which are woven in one direction, also called single crepe. Blue crepe silk has fine spiral crepe, smooth and shiny, soft and smooth texture, strong and durable, and the silk body is slightly thicker than crepe silk. The varieties of crepe are also divided into plain colors, stripes and plaids, which are suitable for spring, autumn and summer clothes. It also has the disadvantage of large shrinkage, so we must pay attention to it when using it.
Sambo Satin: A pure silk jacquard crepe fabric woven by plain warp crepe weft, consisting of five warp satin flowers on five weft satin grounds. It has the characteristics of refreshing, comfortable, good elasticity, soft satin luster and light ripples on the ground. Used as shirts or skirts for men and women. Due to the long floating line of satin, the fabric is easy to fluff and should not be washed more.
(5) Twill: The basic weave is twill or varied twill, with obvious twill lines on the surface, or flowers and plain fabrics with different oblique patterns, which are generally made of mulberry silk or silk interwoven with chemical fiber filaments. Silk fabric has the characteristics of light texture, soft feel, luster and smoothness. The common varieties are: silk twill, silk weft, tussah flower silk, flower-bonded silk, beautiful silk, pick silk, feather silk and so on.
Silk twill: Also known as silk twill, it is a twill-like silk fabric woven from pure mulberry silk, generally with 2/2 twill weave. Fabric has the characteristics of soft and smooth texture, soft luster, rich colors and lightness and elegance. Mostly used to make shirts, dresses, pajamas, square towels and long towels.
Silk Weft Silk: Silk-like fabric with 2/2 twill weave interwoven with mulberry silk. The product is of medium size, thin texture, slightly bright silk surface and clear grain, which is like silk wool fabric and is suitable for clothing or tie fabrics.
? Pick-up: Jacquard silk fabric interwoven with mulberry silk and viscose yarn, in which the warp yarn consists of two groups of yarns, one is mulberry silk, the other is bright viscose yarn, and the weft yarn consists of a group of bright viscose yarn, which is woven with a broken twill weave of 1/3. This kind of fabric is of medium size, thick texture and light stripes, which is suitable for women's spring and autumn clothes, winter cotton-padded clothes, children's cloaks and so on.
Beautiful silk: also known as beautiful silk, it belongs to pure viscose silk fabric and is woven with 3/ 1↗ twill. It has the characteristics of smooth silk surface, clear twill lines and dull reverse side. Generally, it is mainly light gray, brown, sauce red and meta color, which is the lining of high-end clothing. Some books also classify it as silk.
(6) Silk: The pure fabric or interwoven fabric of mulberry silk and rayon woven with plain weave or double plain weave has the characteristics of dyeing first and then weaving, and the warp and weft are not twisted or weakly twisted. Silk fabrics are delicate, smooth and soft in luster, which can be used as both clothing and decoration. The main varieties are: taffeta, colored silk spinning, Tianxiang silk, Yingchun silk, velvet silk, Gough silk and so on.
Taffeta: Jacquard silk fabric, generally made of pure silk, or rayon or polyester, plain weave. It has the characteristics of smooth texture, tight and delicate texture and distinctive patterns. Rayon and polyester taffeta also have the advantage of low price, and are generally used as fabrics for women's wear, dresses, umbrellas, eiderdown garments and so on.
Tianxiang silk: plain jacquard silk fabric with mulberry silk as warp and viscose silk as weft. Because there are two sets of weft yarns, it is also called double weft flowered silk. It has the characteristics of fine, clean and elegant silk surface, many layers of weaving, compact texture, lightness and softness, bright and colorful patterns and so on. Mainly used to make women's clothes, children's cloaks and so on.
Gough silk: Yarn-dyed silk fabric interwoven with mulberry silk and gold and silver silk, in which a small amount of gold and silver silk is regularly embedded in Sutafu silk ground. The texture of the fabric is smooth and smooth, and the grid-like silver light flashes, which is a high-grade taffeta fabric. Suitable for women's spring and autumn clothes and evening clothes.
(7) Woven fabric: low-density plain weave or through-hole weave fabric made of mulberry silk, rayon and synthetic silk. It is crisp, light, transparent, square and clear, and can be divided into plain color, jacquard and decorative. Mainly used as evening dresses, headscarves, veils and industrial screens. Common varieties are silk yarn, jianchun yarn, susi yarn, changhong yarn, Yiren yarn and burnt-out yarn.
Silk tulle: ordinary tulle fabric made of pure mulberry silk. Due to the use of semi-refined yarn, it has the characteristics of rigid and flexible silk body, clear holes in the fabric and light and flat texture. Mainly used as evening dresses, banquet dresses, stage dresses, etc.
Plain yarn: a fabric with variable plain weave made of pure nylon silk. Its texture is light and porous, and it is suitable for headscarves or decorative materials.
Rotten silk fabric: it is a warp-knitted rotten silk fabric interwoven with nylon yarn and bright viscose yarn. Due to the different acid resistance of nylon yarn and viscose yarn, the flowers and the ground are distinct after decay, and the fabric has the characteristics of transparent ground, bright patterns and light and brittle texture. Mainly used as screens, veils, skirts, etc.
(8) Woven fabric: silk fabric woven with plain weave with filament as warp and cotton yarn or wax thread as weft. It has the characteristics of thick texture, durability and simple and clear texture. It can be divided into plain color and floral color, and is mostly used for quilt cover and decorative silk. Common varieties are: 1, wax thread, Suzhou thread, etc.
1 warp: plain warp jacquard fabric with viscose yarn as warp and mercerized cotton yarn as weft. Its warp density is about three times that of weft density, and it is one of the most durable linear fabrics. Solid and rich in texture, soft ground luster, suitable for making autumn and winter clothing and decorative silk materials.
Wax yarn: viscose yarn is used as warp yarn and waxy cotton yarn is used as weft yarn, interwoven into plain warp yarn and jacquard fabric, and the warp yarn density is about twice that of weft yarn. It has the characteristics of smooth silk surface and smooth feel, and is often used as clothing or quilt cover in autumn and winter.
Plain weave: the plain weave fabric takes cuprammonia silk as warp and batik cotton yarn as weft, and the warp density is about twice as dense as weft density. It has the characteristics of thick and meticulous texture, simple and clear silk pattern and soft luster. It is often made of yuan color, navy blue, sauce red and coffee, and is a suitable fabric for making cotton-padded jackets for men and women.
(9) Pueraria lobata: Flowers and plain silk fabrics with obvious lateral ridges woven with the same or different kinds of raw materials in the warp and weft directions are called Pueraria lobata. Generally, plain weave, warp double plain weave or sharp twill weave are adopted, and rayon is used for warp, cotton yarn, wool yarn or blended yarn is used for weft, and silk or rayon can also be used for warp and weft. Pueraria lobata fabric is thick and firm in texture, rough in appearance, and obviously concave and convex in horizontal edges, which is mostly used for coat surfaces and sofa cushions in spring, autumn and winter. Common varieties are: Minghua Pavilion, Wenshang Pavilion, Jinxing Pavilion, Sumao Pavilion, etc.
Minghua leather: a kind of fabric made of pure viscose yarn, with fine weft and thick warp, dense weft and flat warp. Its silk surface has obvious cross relief effect, and presents the effect of dim light and shade, and the texture is soft. Mainly used as spring and autumn clothing or winter cotton-padded jacket fabric.
Wenshangge: a kind of kudzu vine fabric interwoven with viscose fiber and cotton yarn, which is woven in a combined way. It has obvious transverse ridges in appearance, fine, dense and thick texture and soft color. It is often used as clothes in spring, autumn and winter, and can also be used as sofa fabrics and curtains.
Pueraria lobata: A plain woven fabric of Pueraria lobata made of viscose fiber and man-made wool yarn or cotton yarn. The density of warp and weft is quite different, and the warp density is about 4 times that of weft density, so there are obvious transverse ridges on the surface of silk, with thick texture and soft luster, similar to Wenshangge. Often used for spring and autumn clothing or cotton-padded jacket fabrics.
(10) Brocade: Brocade is the most exquisite product among silk fabrics. It is a colored yarn-dyed fabric made of real silk and rayon, woven with twill and satin weave. Its weaving quality is thick and plump, its appearance is gorgeous and magnificent, and its patterns are exquisite and simple. It is an excellent material for making coats, cheongsam and indoor decorations. Brocade has many kinds and uses. There are traditional famous brocade, such as Shu brocade, Song brocade and Yun brocade, as well as ordinary brocade, colorful brocade and Baihua brocade.
Shu brocade: a satin jacquard fabric produced in Sichuan, which can be divided into warp brocade and weft brocade. Its texture is tough and plump, with beautiful pattern style, elegant color matching and rich national and local characteristics. Shu Brocade includes Rain Silk Brocade, Square Brocade, Huanhua Brocade, Dijin Brocade, Ethnic Brocade and Colorful Brocade. Often used as high-grade clothing and decorative materials and ethnic materials.
Jin Song: A traditional product imitating the brocade style of the Song Dynasty. It is a kind of pick-up brocade fabric interwoven by pure mulberry silk or mulberry silk and bright viscose silk, which has the characteristics of smooth brocade surface, fine structure, soft and elegant luster and antique color patterns. Jin Song's products are designed for high-grade decoration of famous paintings and precious gifts.
Yunjin: Yunjin, Shu Jin and Song Jin are also called the three famous brocade in China. Produced in Nanjing, it is a traditional jacquard colorful characteristic brocade fabric interwoven with mulberry silk, gold and silver leather and viscose silk. Because fabric patterns are often accompanied by auspicious clouds and flying clouds, just like colorful clouds in the sky, it is named Yunjin. Yunjin has the characteristics of dense texture, full style, elegance and richness, and rich colors. There are three categories: brocade, satin and makeup. Suitable for minority clothing and various decorative materials.
Brocade: It is a traditional jacquard silk fabric. Warp satin jacquard fabric is woven with twisted yarn as warp yarn and bright viscose as weft yarn. It has the characteristics of fine pattern, thick and compact texture, flat satin body and bright colors, ranging from three colors to seven colors, eight colors or even ten colors. This is an advanced silk fabric. Generally suitable for making cheongsam, casual clothes, pajamas, dresses, national holiday costumes and other high-end clothing.
Baihuajin: a satin ground weft jacquard brocade fabric interwoven with mulberry silk as warp and four-color viscose silk as weft. It has the characteristics of exquisite and gorgeous fabrics, colorful patterns and strong three-dimensional sense. Suitable for spring and autumn clothes or winter coats.
(1 1) yarn: a transparent light fabric twisted with mulberry silk, rayon or synthetic silk. Its warp and weft density is loose, and its surface has all or part of transparent yarn holes, so it has good air permeability and light texture. It is widely used as curtains, mosquito nets and summer clothes. Common varieties are: georgette yarn, Lushan yarn, buttercup yarn, curtain yarn and so on.
George yarn: both warp and weft are made of strong twist yarn, in which the warp adopts 2S and 2Z alternately, and the weft adopts 2S and 2s alternately, which is a plain weave fabric with sparse warp and weft density. It has the characteristics of light and sparse texture, fine and uniform crepe on the surface, obvious yarn holes and elegant hanging. Suitable for summer clothes, shirts and wedding dresses.
Lushan yarn: a traditional product of Huzhou City, Zhejiang Province, is a plain jacquard fabric woven from pure mulberry silk. Warp and weft are twisted yarns. The warp yarns are arranged at intervals of 8S and 8Z, and the density of warp yarns is more than twice that of weft yarns. The woven fabric has the characteristics of obvious crepe on silk surface, plain color, clear straight line, slightly fine yarn hole, light and crisp hand feeling and good air permeability. Suitable for summer shirts or pants.
(12) Luo: Twisted fabric made of plied yarn as warp and weft. Among them, there are two groups of warp yarns and one group of weft yarns, which are woven into horizontal or straight holes, which are called horizontal or straight yarns respectively. They have similar characteristics to yarns, so they are often connected with yarns and are called leno fabrics. It has a long history and a wide variety, such as Hangluo, Chuanjinluo and Russell.
Hangluo: Fabric made of pure mulberry silk, originally from Hangzhou, hence the name "Hangluo". It consists of plain weave and leno weave, and its silk surface has regular straight or horizontal yarn holes at equal intervals, which is clear, smooth and refreshing, comfortable and cool to wear, durable and washable. Mostly used as summer shirts and casual clothes fabrics.
Window brocade: Jacquard brocade woven from mulberry silk has the characteristics of clear surface straight holes, in which warp flowers and a small amount of foil weft flowers are woven, which is light and brittle, good drape and unique in style. Mainly used for summer clothing or curtain decoration.
(13) Wool-like silk fabric is composed of crepe weave, plain weave, twill weave and thick warp and weft yarns, which is called wool fabric. Generally, filament yarns are interwoven with staple yarns, and some are interwoven with mulberry silk and viscose yarns with medium twist. "Nylon" can be divided into woolen cloth and silk according to its appearance characteristics, and its main varieties are: Dawei nylon, Wuyi nylon, Lekang nylon, Siwei nylon, Doctor nylon and yarn nylon.
David: It's a fabric similar to tweed, belonging to the small jacquard with flat warp and crepe weft. The front is woven irregularly, and the back is twill weave, which has the characteristics of tight body, thick feel, soft luster and light dark pattern on the silk surface, just like carving effect. Suitable for making long dresses and short coats.
Tulle: A plain jacquard fabric made of viscose rayon. It has the characteristics of light and smooth texture, smooth feel and light spots on the appearance. Often used as summer clothes or spring and autumn clothes.
(14) Velvet fabric: flower fabric with fluff or loops on the surface, made of mulberry silk or chemical fiber filaments, called velvet fabric, which has the characteristics of dense appearance, towering, soft texture, bright color and elasticity. The main varieties are: velvet, georgette, golden velvet, vertical velvet, burnt velvet and so on.
Pilose antler: Also known as Zhang Rong, it is named after its origin in Zhangzhou, Fujian. It is a single-layer warp knitted fabric with loops or fluff on its surface. It has the characteristics of dense loops or fluff, soft luster, solid texture and wear resistance. , mainly black, sauce purple, apricot yellow, blue and brown. Commonly used as high-grade clothing fabrics, hats and sofas, cushion fabrics and so on. It should be hung and stored to avoid fluff lodging.
Qiao Qirong: A double-layer warp-raised silk fabric interwoven with mulberry silk and viscose silk, which is divided into two layers to form fluff. Its pile part is made of glossy viscose silk, and the ground warp and weft are made of strongly twisted mulberry silk, so it has the characteristics of dense and straight pile, leaning forward, soft feel, elasticity and soft luster. Georgie yarn can be finished by cutting, shearing, standing, rotting and printing. Valuable varieties such as burnt-out georgette and burnt-out printed georgette can be obtained. Suitable for ladies' evening dresses and ethnic costumes.
Vertical pile: a double pile fabric interwoven with mulberry silk and rayon. The knitting method is the same as that of georgette, except that the vertical pile is dense, short and flat, and upright. It has the characteristics of compact velvet body, soft and full feel, soft luster and tough texture. Suitable for women's wear, holiday clothes, etc. When using, it is necessary to prevent water droplets from splashing and causing ugly water stains.