The Tang Dynasty was the heyday of feudal society in China, and both people's thoughts and material production reached a historical peak. Since the Tang Dynasty, flower patterns have been widely used in craft decoration, with lively and free composition, well-proportioned density, fullness and roundness. Especially after the combination of wavy continuous patterns with flowers and plants, the clothing patterns in the Tang Dynasty changed the original creative thinking, using real flowers, plants, fish and insects to sketch, but it did not exclude the traditional dragon and phoenix patterns, which was also determined by the influence of imperial power. At this time, the clothing pattern design tends to express the artistic style of freedom, fullness and fatness. The dress patterns in the late Tang Dynasty were more exquisite and beautiful. Flower-and-bird clothing patterns, border decoration patterns and group flower clothing patterns are really colorful in the soft clothing of silk and yarn. As Wang Jian of the Five Dynasties said, "Luoshan leaves are embroidered again, and there is a cluster of golden phoenix silver geese, each dancing in two directions, between the words" Long live peace ". "Today we see these luxurious and exquisite costume patterns, which are precious image materials that Dunhuang Grottoes painters have preserved for future generations with hard work. The development of costumes in Tang Dynasty is an overall development. At this time, the clothing pattern design tends to be free, plump, gorgeous and round, which is manifested in shoes, hats, towels, Yu Pei, hairstyle, makeup and jewelry. The Tang Dynasty inherited the styles of Zhou, Warring States and Wei and Jin Dynasties, and integrated the rigor of dress design of Zhou Dynasty, the stretch of Warring States, the lightness of Han Dynasty and the elegance of Wei and Jin Dynasties, and on this basis, it became more luxurious, making the dress and dress patterns reach the peak in history. The influence of costumes and costume patterns in the Tang Dynasty on later generations continues to this day. The application of branch patterns in modern clothing patterns embodies the implication of combining traditional patterns with modern aesthetic consciousness. This is a popular pattern of tying branches in the Tang Dynasty.

Women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty can be divided into three types:

1, narrow-sleeved shirt, long skirt;

2. Khufu;

3. Women wear men's clothes.

These three different characteristics of clothing constitute the mainstream of women's clothing in the prosperous Tang Dynasty. It is a major feature of the prosperous Tang Dynasty that women wear the clothes of Khufu and men.

Characteristics of costumes in Qing Dynasty

Although Manchu was formed at the beginning of17th century, her ancestors can be traced back to the Jin Dynasty Nuzhen to Sushen people more than 3,000 years ago. Sushen people are an ancient people who have lived in the northeast frontier of China for a long time. They hunt for a living and are the ancestors of Manchu. The costumes of Manchu people basically follow the Jurchen nationality. The custom of Jurchen is to "wear white clothes, keep skulls, braid hair and hang shoulders, and tie it in a bun with colored silk". It is a nation that is "good at riding and shooting, likes farming, and likes fishing and hunting". When hunting, we often use birch bark as a bow, blow the sound of yo-yo, call elk and shoot it. Therefore, whenever the snowy winter comes, they all take "fur as their clothes, and if they don't advance, they will retreat."

Second, Manchu costumes.

1, Manchu hairstyle. The hairstyle of Manchu is very different from that of Han nationality. Han people have full hair, while Manchu people, according to their own national customs, are "half shaved and half left, with braided hair hanging over their shoulders and colored silk". Manchu women braid their hair, and married women have many hairstyles and names, such as the "big head" at the top of the braiding plate; Forming a "shelf head" with two corners; The top of the head is combed into "two heads" about one foot wide and eight inches high, also known as "Ruyi head", which is the most typical hairstyle of Manchu women.

2. Manchu people have the habit of wearing leather clothes. Manchu is a riding and shooting people, good at hunting, so regardless of poverty, they are all dressed in fur. The rich use "mink skin, green mouse skin, fox skin or lamb skin" in autumn and winter, and the poor use "cow, horse, pig, sheep, dog or elk skin" to make shirt pants. From 65438 to 0644, with the improvement of social status and economy, the wind of wearing leather clothes among Manchu nobles gradually rose.

3. Manchu people have the habit of wearing arrow sleeves and arrows. Arrow sleeves are generally called horseshoe sleeves, and Manchu is called "Wow", which is a distinctive sleeve in Manchu robes. Wrigley clothing is a kind of coat with horseshoe sleeves. It used to be a costume for hunting and fighting, especially for riding and shooting in winter. The back of the palm is covered with horseshoe sleeves, which can protect the back of the hand from freezing, whether it is galloping with rein or archery with bow.

Manchu people like to wear "cheongsam" and "lack of robes". Qipao means "the robe of a flag girl". In the early northeast, men, women and children could not live without clothes all the year round, which could be made into various styles such as singles, clips, leather and cotton. After the Qing dynasty unified the whole country, cheongsam was mainly worn by women, and its style developed and it was decorated. In the Qing Dynasty, women's cheongsam was also popular with "big sleeves". The sleeves are longer than the hands, and the color embroidery in the lower half of the sleeves adopts patterns of different colors from the sleeve surface, and then it is pulled out, which is unique and beautiful. In addition, there is a kind of robe that embodies national characteristics, called "lack of lapel robe". The right front part of the robe is about one foot shorter, and it can be connected with the inner lapel with buttons, which is convenient for riding.

5. Manchu people like accessories. In Manchu customs, people attach great importance to wearing accessories, among which purses and sachets are the most common accessories. Hebao Manchu is called "Fadu", and Manchu has a long history of hanging "Fadu". As for the folk uses of purse, there are many, such as mother's birthday, children's full moon, gifts, wedding banquets and so on. In addition to the usual hanging, even young men and women can't leave their wallets as gifts and tokens.

Third, folk costumes in Qing Dynasty.

"Rolling color embroidery" is a major feature of folk costumes in the Qing Dynasty, especially in women's costumes. "Rolling embroidery" means that not only various colored teeth and tapestries are embedded in clothes, but also embroidery is added, that is, headscarves, aprons, skirts and uppers of rural women. It is also necessary to embroider some lace patterns with silk threads of various colors.

1, robe, coat. The mandarin jacket often worn by Manchu people in Qing Dynasty was a popular coat in Qing Dynasty. It saves materials, is convenient to make and wear, replaces ancient dresses, and is easily accepted by future generations. The robes of the Qing Dynasty are complete and rigorous, and they are closed, so their images are solemn, solemn, lofty, extraordinary and unique. They broke through the clothes that have been praised for thousands of years and left a deep memory for the world.

2. hats. People in the Qing Dynasty liked to wear hats. It can be roughly divided into: warm hat, cool hat, leisure hat and Kunqiu hat worn by women. The so-called warm hat, worn in winter, is round, with upturned brim and red ribbon at the top as decoration. The cool hat, without eaves, looks like a "sauce cloak" on the lid of a sauce jar in rural areas of Northeast China. Cap, commonly known as "melon skin cap", is the most popular hat in Qing Dynasty. Suitable for all ages, it is made by splicing six petals. The top of the hat should be decorated with a "big knot" made of velvet, commonly known as "abacus knot" In order to distinguish the front and back of the hat, an obvious sign-the hat is nailed in the middle of the edge of the hat, which is decorated with jade, jade and other jewelry. Kun ball cap is a kind of hat worn by women. Its style is similar to men's warm hat, and the leather eaves are upturned. The hat is made of red, blue and purple satin at most, and the top is covered with flowers, mostly decorated with embroidery or gold and silver.

3. sword. Southern vests were loved by men, women and children in the Qing Dynasty because of their convenience and heart protection. They were often worn outside robes and played an invisible decorative role. There are three styles according to the skirt type: big skirt, pipa skirt and straight skirt. Among them, the front of the "I-shaped" is called "Batulukanjian", which means the vest worn by the samurai, and is deeply loved by the children of the Eight Banners.

4. Skirts and pants. In the Qing Dynasty, Manchu and Han women mostly wore culottes, mainly long skirts. For example, in early fashion, there are patterns in the pleats in the skirt, which looks beautiful in the moonlight. The "phoenix-tailed skirt", which was popular in the middle period, used gold and silver thread to join the skirts together, just like the phoenix-tailed skirt. During the Qianlong period, women liked to wear pale yellow pink-rimmed shirts and embroidered skirts and trousers. During the reign of Xianfeng and Tongzhi, the phoenix-tailed skirt was improved into a "fish-scale pleated skirt", that is, the hem of the skirt was connected with a thread, so that it could be expanded and contracted and looked like a fish scale. In the late Guangxu period, skirts appeared again, with ribbons on them and gold, silver and bronze bells jingling at the sharp corners. In the Qing Dynasty, red was the most expensive dress for women, and red clothes were often worn on festivals. This preference for clothing color influenced the day.

5. boots and shoes. Men generally wore boots in Qing dynasty, which was also a reflection of riding and shooting national life. After Manchu entered the customs, due to the warm climate and improved economic conditions, people stopped wearing clumsy fur and made boots out of cloth. According to the regulations of the Qing dynasty, only officials who entered the DPRK were allowed to wear square boots. Therefore, folk men wear pointed boots, which are the same style for the rich and the poor, but with different materials.

Women in Qing Dynasty paid attention to wearing high-heeled wooden soled shoes, especially Manchu aristocratic women. This is also the most distinctive shoe in Qing Dynasty, and it was later called "flag shoe". Its style is to put the high heels in the center of the shoes, usually more than three inches. Wooden heels are wrapped in white cloth, and the parts that don't touch the ground are mostly decorated with embroidery or beads. According to the shape of the wooden bottom, it can be divided into "flowerpot bottom" and "horseshoe bottom".