In the late Paleolithic period, people already knew how to sew clothes, and bone needles were also unearthed in the cultural remains of the Neanderthals in Zhoukoudian. By the end of the Neolithic Age, people of different regions and nationalities had different clothing styles. Take the hairstyle as an example. Dadiwan culture has a short ponytail, Majiayao culture has an inverted braid, Dawenkou culture has a hair band made of pig teeth, and Longshan culture has bone hair. A jade man's head unearthed from the Shenmu Shige site in Longshan culture, Shaanxi Province, has a bun on the top of his head, which may be the reflection of his hair. Bones have been unearthed in Erlitou-type and Dongxiafeng-type sites equivalent to Erlitou culture in Xia Dynasty, and their shapes are the same as those of similar artifacts in Shang Dynasty. Therefore, knowing that hair is tied in a bun has always been a major feature of ancient Chinese costumes. Shangxizhou

The clothes of Shang Dynasty and Western Zhou Dynasty didn't really exist. According to the jade articles and stone statues unearthed from Houjiazhuang Tomb and Muhao Tomb in Anyang, it can be known that the nobles in Shang Dynasty wore collar clothes, a gentry belt around their waist, a petticoat under them, and a city (covering their knees) in front of their abdomen. There are few figures left over from the Western Zhou Dynasty. Judging from the jade and bronze humanoid car unearthed in Luoyang, clothes, dresses, belts and markets are still the basic components of aristocratic men's wear. Its clothes are positive color and middle color, pay special attention to the market in front of the clothes. According to the bronze inscriptions in the Western Zhou Dynasty, Zhou Wang often gave clothes at the registration ceremony, such as "Zhu Shi, scallion yellow" (Mao), "Shi, Huang" (Xun Gui) and so on. In ancient literature, Cheng and Huang refer to "balance", which refers to knee covering, and "balance" refers to a whole set of accessories including jade binding group and jade pieces. The figurines unearthed from Changtaiguan in Xinyang, Henan Province and Jin 'an in Jiangling, Hubei Province belong to Yu Pei in front of their bellies. On the other hand, under the rule of Yu Pei, nobles were highlighted with special colors, thus becoming a symbol representing their status.

the Spring and Autumn Period

At this time, deep clothes and Hu clothes began to become popular. Deep clothes are called deep clothes because they connect clothes that were not connected up and down in the past. Its hem is not sewn, but the skirt is extended and covered backwards, which is called "continuous sewing and hemming". Deep clothes were quite popular during the Warring States period, and there were people wearing deep clothes in the Zhou royal family and the relics of Zhao, Zhongshan, Qin and Qi. Chu tombs reveal the deep clothes of folk figures, and the detailed structure is clearer. Short sleeves are a major feature of Chu clothing. There used to be a short-sleeved "dress" in the tomb of Mashan 1 in Jiangling. According to Shuowen, it's a jacket. According to Zeng Houyi's clothes, it should be short-sleeved clothes.

Khufu mainly refers to clothes and trousers, especially trousers, which are the costumes of the northern grassland nationalities in China. For riding convenience, they wear narrower coats, trousers and boots. According to Records of the Historian Zhao Shijia, this system was first used by King Wuling of Zhao to equip the Zhao army. The bronze warrior statue in Changzhi Valley of Shanxi Province is wearing a rectangular collar, a straight-breasted coat, trousers, a belt and a sword. This is the image of a Zhao warrior who uses Khufu.

"Khufu's system, the crown is Huiwen, the belt is the northern generation, the shoes are boots, and the pants are pleated. ..... Since the Warring States period, King Wuling of Zhao, Khufu riding and shooting, pants pleats were introduced to China, and all previous dynasties believed that Fu Rong, or his crown, or his shoes, or his belt, or all three, was occasionally used by the people in the Jin Dynasty. During the Northern and Southern Dynasties, Hu Fu was the official costume of the Northern Dynasty, while Han Fu was the military uniform of the Southern Dynasty. Compared with the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the emperor was a hunting costume, or a public costume, and folk costumes were the most popular. Tracing back to its spread and prosperity, from military to civilian, it has a long history and complicated changes. Wang Guowei's "Hu Fu Kao" is the most detailed, so there is no need to repeat it. It was only in the Tang Dynasty that why it became so popular has not been verified so far, and Wang has not mentioned it. In my humble opinion, there are three reasons: (1> During the Tang Dynasty, many Hu people lived in the mainland. (2) The aristocratic class abandoned the past and sat for the conference semifinals; (3) courtiers, abandon the car and ride horses.

In Khufu, there are so-called semi-armed people. In ancient times, it was called half arm, but today it is called mandarin jacket. There is no official script in Shuowen, and there is no official script in Pian Yu, for fear that it is an official script. Li Shu and Li Shu both get their sounds from Guangxi, but they can't be hung up or hung up. Sleeveless or semi-armless clothes are Hu clothes. "Sin only records crown clothes" says: "Every dynasty wore pleats, and the clothes were also military, with short sleeves or sleeveless, with horizontal pleats and vertical pleats under them. If the sleeves are long, they are dragged or interrupted at the waist, and they intersect with a line, which is called Cheng Ziyi and Wireless Road, which is called Taoist robe. "

Just like this trouser pleat, it became the general name of Khufu. All sleeveless, short-sleeved and long-sleeved clothes, as well as robes that span the waist with cable channels or wireless channels, can be called trousers pleats, so it is no problem that the half arm in question is Hu clothes. As for its shape, Song Zengsan's Notes on Explaining Words is the most detailed:

"In recent years, there has been a clothing system, such as spinning coats, which are not longer than the waist and the sleeves only cover the elbows. It is made of the thickest silk and wrapped in a clip, or made of cotton and purple soap. It is called today's sleeve. It started in the Imperial Horse Garden. Those who are short in front and back may wish to take off their saddles and wear short sleeves to facilitate ear control. " Not longer than the waist, the sleeves only cover the elbows. Edge with purple soap cloth, clothes, cotton-padded clothes. Obviously, it is a half-arm system. Because its front and back lapels are very short, you might as well take them off when sitting on the saddle, so it can also be called a jacket, which is a pair of lapels. The system of Ming and Qing dynasties still exists. The Japanese Records, Volume 28, Duijian Clothing, said: "Taizu recorded that in March of the 26th year of Hongwu, officials and civilians were forbidden to wear Duijian clothing, and only rode horses to let them ride." Yeah, yeah. "(Excerpted from Huang Xianfan's Preliminary Study on the Interpretation of Ancient Books)

Qin and Han dynasties

The excavation of a large number of terracotta warriors and horses in the pit of Qin Shihuang Mausoleum provided sufficient examples for the samurai costumes in Qin and Han Dynasties. The half-length clothes they wear are relatively light, but they are still deep clothes, with pants below and a belt with hooks around their waist. This kind of clothing was still widely popular in the Western Han Dynasty, and pants gradually spread to the whole society. The establishment of the crown system was realized in the Han Dynasty. In ancient times, the crown of Huaxia nationality was mainly subordinate to the ritual system, and men had to perform the crown ceremony when they were adults. Crown rule in Han dynasty is mainly subordinate to the service system, which is a symbol of identity, official position and even rank. People with low status can only wear hats, not crowns. A crown is a hair cover added to a bun and does not cover the whole head. E is like a hat. The crown and cloak have nothing to do with each other. Wang Mang arrived. It is said that because he was bald, he wore a cloak first and then was crowned. Later, this way of wearing became popular, so the crown that appeared on the stone relief in the Eastern Han Dynasty was also placed under it. Crown and pavilion can't be matched casually. The immortal crown worn by civil servants should match the roof-shaped pavilion, and the martial arts crown worn by military officers should match the flat pavilion on the top. Jin Xianguan is towering in front, inclined in the back and inclined in appearance. There are "beams" in front of the crown, and the wearer's identity can be distinguished according to the number of beams. The Tian Tong crown worn by the emperor and the far crown worn by the princes are also dazzling on the basis of the Golden Fairy Crown. Wu Ge's big crown, also known as "Hui ("), was originally made of (thin linen) drooping ears. Later, it was placed under it and painted on it to make it look like a painted sand cage, so it was also called "cage crown". The sarong crown was unearthed from Xin Mang's tomb at No.62 Mozuizi, Wuwei, Gansu. Besides, samurai also wear crowns. Law enforcement officers wear sabers.

Although the beams on the crown of Jin Xian have played a certain role in distinguishing the advantages and disadvantages, the number of beams does not exceed three, and the classification is relatively rough. Therefore, in the Han Dynasty, as a symbol of official rank, the color, weave, density and length of ribbons of officials at different levels were different. At this time, although the ribbon was the official seal, it was closely related to the Western Zhou Yupei Group.

Women in the Han dynasty generally combed their hair back into a drooping bun, called a vertebral bun. Women often wear deep clothes. Women's deep clothes are famous for their clothes. Their twists are not only wrapped around several layers in the lower body, but also decorated with triangles and long ribbons on their diagonal width, which is called harmony in literature. Its shape can be seen in the Han Dynasty portrait bricks unearthed in Sichuan.

Wei, Jin, southern and northern dynasties

Clothing in Wei, Jin and Western Jin dynasties generally followed the Han system. Only pleated clothes are popular, and more flat towels called little crowns are used. During the Northern and Southern Dynasties, Xianbei costumes prevailed because the Northern Dynasties were ruled by Xianbei or Xianbei-dominated rulers. A few Xianbei men wear round neck or collared clothes, trousers and boots, a belt with a buckle at the waist and a Xianbei hat hanging down from their heads. After a long period of mixed ethnic groups, this kind of clothing has also become popular among Han civilians. On the other hand, some rulers in the Northern Wei Dynasty advocated sinicization for political needs, so the "prestige" brought by Hubei officials appeared in the sacrificial clothes and court clothes of emperors and courtiers. This can be seen in the relief of the "Emperor's Ritual Buddha" in Xiangtangshan Grottoes or the portrait of Emperor Wu of the Northern Zhou Dynasty in the Atlas of Emperors of Past Dynasties.

the Tang Dynasty

On the basis of the mutual influence and systematic formation of Hu and Han costumes in the Northern and Southern Dynasties, the costume system in the Tang Dynasty appeared the situation of "legal costume" and "regular costume" in parallel. As a big dress, the French dress is still the traditional crown, crown, skirt and dress, while the regular dress is improved on the basis of Xianbei dress. In the Tang Dynasty, from emperors to servants, men had to wear uniforms in their daily lives, including round necks, lack of robes, hoes, belts and boots. A robe that opens without a robe. Wotou evolved from Xianbei hat. It's a headscarf. When wrapped, the two corners of the towel hold the bun forward, and the other two corners are tied behind the head, so the excess part naturally hangs down. At first, the steamed bread was made of black buttons or rolls, so the hanging angle of the towel was also soft, so it was called "soft-footed steamed bread". Later, a corner of the towel was supported by copper wire and iron wire, which became a "hard hoe". Due to the different shapes of hard feet and different angles of lifting, there are also equations of "sentence foot", "spread foot" and "sky". At first, the belt in the Tang Dynasty was tied with a narrow thong, so this belt got its name. Many square plaques were fixed on it. According to different ranks, belts are made of jade, gold, rhinoceros, silver, jade, blue iron and other materials, making belts a symbol of different ranks. In addition, "color tasting clothes" appeared in the Northern Zhou Dynasty and formed a system in the Tang Dynasty, which became a major feature of China's official clothes. In the Tang Dynasty, officials ranged from first class to ninth class, and purple, red, green and blue were equal differences.

Women's dresses in Tang Dynasty are mainly composed of skirts, shirts and purses. This often hides the shirt in the skirt, so it looks very long. Bibi, also known as Bibi, like a slender shawl, was once popular in the Central Plains under the influence of Buddhism in West Asia. In the early Tang Dynasty, women's costumes were also popular in Hu fu, such as a virtual hat with rolled eaves and lapels. After the Anshi Rebellion, this trend gradually subsided.

Song dynasty

The costumes of the Song Dynasty generally followed the Tang system. At this time, the hoe was lined with wooden bones and covered with lacquer yarn, which was called "hoe hat" by Song people and could be taken off at will, which was very different from the soft-footed hoe that had to be temporarily wrapped in the early Tang Dynasty. At this time, the emperor and senior officials all wore exhibition feet, which stretched straight to both sides for several feet. A humble tolerance, servant, etc. Wear more hoes without feet.

Women in the Song Dynasty also wore skirts and tops. At this time, blouses were mostly double-breasted and covered outside skirts. The skirt is very narrow, and many folds are applied. In addition to the Luo skirt, Fuzhou Huangdi Mausoleum also has open-crotch pants and closed-crotch pants, which shows that women in the Song Dynasty wore pants inside the skirt. Foot-binding began in the Five Dynasties and was popular in the late Northern Song Dynasty.

the Yuan Dynasty

The hats worn by Mongolian men in Yuan Dynasty were round, square or polygonal, commonly known as Tatar hats. The former was unearthed in Shixian Tomb of Wang Yuan, Zhangxi 'an County, Gansu Province, and the latter was found in Yuan Tomb of Jiaozuo, Henan Province. The robes of Yuan people are often pleated at the waist and pleated at the lower part, which is called braided coat. Most senior officials and nobles are made of Nash (brocade). Often wearing suede in winter, the name is ignored. Your wife wears an ancient crown, made of wood, and is three feet high. It is wrapped in red silk, decorated with pearls and jade, and has branches and feathers on the top. The style is very special. Mongolian costumes were required in Beijing at the beginning of the Yuan Dynasty, but Dade left it to its own devices. Therefore, the costumes of the Han people in the Yuan Dynasty, especially those living in the south of the Yangtze River, the so-called "southerners", were basically the same as those in the Song Dynasty.

Ming and Qing dynasties

The Ming Dynasty demanded that the clothes be restored to the Tang Dynasty, and the style of the clothes was similar to that of the Tang Dynasty, except that the crown of Jin Xian was changed and the crown style of the bell was added. In the Ming dynasty, official uniforms also used hats and round neck robes, but at this time the hats were painted with black paint, and the feet of the hats were short and wide, so they were called black hats. Civilians without official positions were not allowed to wear them. In addition to coloring according to the grade regulations, the public service also patches the chest and back. Civil servants decorate birds, and officers decorate animals. In recognition of the meritorious service of the officials, pythons, flying fish, bullfighting and other clothes were specially presented. Python is a dragon with four claws, flying fish is a python with fins, and bullfighting is to add curved horns to the python's head. Jade belt is for official use, so it's best to use it. Therefore, "embroidered robe and jade belt" became the most prominent costume of the big bureaucrats at this time.

In the Qing dynasty, it was changed to formal dress. The robes worn by officials are mostly stone blue, so they don't wear colored clothes. In the Qing dynasty, when grading official uniforms, besides continuing to use supplements, special attention was paid to the top of tassels. An official ruby crown, two coral crowns, three sapphire crowns and four lapis lazuli crowns are all equal. Among the military attaché s, those who have close relatives and military achievements are also rewarded with Hualing, which is divided into one eye, two eyes and three eyes. Therefore, the most prominent symbol of official uniforms in the Qing Dynasty is "wearing a flower feather".

The clothing of Han women in Ming and Qing dynasties has not changed much, and they still wear shirts and skirts. In the late Qing Dynasty, pants replaced skirts. After the mid-Qing Dynasty, women's dresses were edged layer by layer, which was called "rolling inlay". Manchu women in Qing Dynasty wore flag dresses. They wear cheongsam, without feet or skirts, and sometimes they wear vests. After Qianlong, high-top "flowerpot bottom" shoes appeared in Manchu women's clothing. After Xianfeng, high hairstyles such as "two ends" and "big wings" appeared, which became the prominent feature of Manchu women's wear.