Thick clothes
Deep coat is a kind of straight gown, which wraps the body and petticoat together, cuts them separately but sews them up and down, hence the name "Bei Shen". In layman's terms, the top and the bottom skirt are connected together, with different colors of cloth as the edge (called "skirt" or "pure"); Its characteristic is to make the body hidden and elegant. Modern humanists suggest that Shenzhuang should be promoted as the costume of the Chinese nation and the representative of China costume culture.
Pronunciation deep clothes sh ē n y ī deep clothes picture (1)
Interpreting an ancient costume with a top and a bottom. The clothes that ancient rulers, doctors and scholars often wore at home were also the official clothes of Shu Ren.
The robes, Zen robes and robes in long clothes were all developed on the basis of deep clothes and gradually became the most popular long clothes at that time. Therefore, before introducing robes, Zen clothes and mourning clothes, it is necessary to understand the relevant shapes of deep clothes. Regarding the shape of deep clothes, I recommend Jiang Yong's Textual Research on Deep Clothes and Ren's Interpretation of Deep Clothes. Generally speaking, the former makes a general statement and the latter makes a further deduction. According to their research, the shape of the deep clothes is roughly as follows: two pieces of cloth are the top, * * * two feet and two inches; Two-sleeve cloth, four-sleeve cloth. The cuff (cuff) is one foot two inches, and the sleeve is two feet two inches with cloth. Therefore, due to the oblique cutting, the lower surfaces of the front ends of the two sleeves are semicircular. Lapel is divided into inner and outer parts, which form a square collar when intersecting. The waist is seven feet two inches, and the hem (seam) is ten feet four inches. From waist to hem, six pieces of cloth, twelve pieces of * * *. Each picture is half a piece of cloth, with four pieces of cloth at the waist and top, and two pieces of cloth at both sides, which is called a ring. The top of the ring is four inches wide and the bottom is one foot eight inches wide. The skirt is about four feet five inches below the belt and four inches below the ground. Clothes have their own edges, which is called purity. The edge of the dress is one and a half inches wide, and the edge of the collar is two inches wide. It can be seen that deep clothes are a kind of bloated and expensive long clothes. According to the simulated cutting of objects unearthed from Mawangdui No.1 Han Tomb (Figure 14), it is found that silk with a width of 0.32 meters is needed. 5 meters), 40% more than straight purlin gown. Therefore, deep clothing is gradually replaced by robe clothing, Zen clothing and robe clothing.
trait
1. Design of upper and lower clothes. 2. Conservative design of deep clothes pictures (wide, long sleeves, no chest opening) (2)
3. The color is mainly cool. 4. Three generations of formal styles of men and women.
structure
Knee: refers to the front of a garment. Right lapel: The ancients covered the coat below and the coat below, forming a "lapel". The left side of the skirt covers the left side and the right side covers the right side. The custom in the Central Plains is right-handed. Remove: cuff: sleeve skirt: skirt
The origin of this name is because it can cover the whole body and cover the human body tightly. "Five Classics of Justice" holds that: "Clothes are connected and are deep; Every part of the specific shape has profound meaning, and the homonym of "profound meaning" is "deep clothes". For example, in the production, the lower skirt of the coat is cut first, and then the whole dress is sewn at the waist to show respect for the ancestors. The petticoat of the deep coat is wrapped around the front with narrow sleeves in 12 Chinese.
Cutting pieces and sewing to welcome December is the embodiment of the ancients' respect for the sense of heaven and season. Adopt square collar round sleeves to show the rules, which means to act according to the rules; Vertical back line to show integrity; Horizontal hypocycloid to show fairness.
"The Book of Rites Deep Clothes": "The ancients wore deep clothes to make a cover and called it a gauge rope." Zheng Xuan's note: "The so-called deep clothes, that is, clothes are pure." Confucius' Book of Ying Da: "All those who wear deep clothes, governors and doctors, are written in the evening, so Yu Zao said,' Those who wear deep clothes, wear them in the evening'." Shu Ren auspicious clothes, but also deep clothes. Song Sima Guang's poem "Walking Alone" says: "The grass is soft and the waves are clear and the sand is weak, and the bamboo in hand wears deep clothes." Yan Fu's On Saving the Nation: "Dai, Ruan, Qin and Wang Zhi entered; A few deep clothes, two in the hall. "
Development history
In ancient times, the casual clothes of the rulers, doctors and other literati classes were also the clothes of Shu Ren people, which were unisex. Popular in the pre-Qin period. At that time, the deep clothes were all made of white linen. With a wide range of uses, it is the only auspicious costume in Shu Ren except for sacrificial ceremonies. It is characterized in that the coat is connected with the hem, the skirt is covered to the right, the hem cannot be opened, the skirt is extended, and the skirt is covered backwards to the ankle. Because it is deep and long from front to back, it is called a deep coat. The edge of a deep coat is usually inlaid with colored silk, and its shape and specifications are strictly regulated. There are many explanations in the past dynasties, and there are different opinions. Women's dresses in the Han dynasty were made of clothes and skirts, just like ancient deep clothes. Its style has a great influence on the clothing of later generations. In the Tang Dynasty, it was put under the robe, and in the Yuan Dynasty, it was used in the form of undressing. Today's clothing is also the development of the ancient deep clothing system. Deep clothes are different from coats and skirts that are not connected in the past, but clothes that are connected from top to bottom. Another feature of it is "continuous hemming". ??is a skirt; "Continuation" means extending the skirt. "Crocheting" is a style to describe skirts. Deep clothes have changed the way of clothing cutting in the past. Instead of opening at the bottom, the left skirt is stitched at the front and back, and the back skirt is lengthened. The lengthened skirt forms a triangle, which is worn around the back and then tied with a belt. Deep clothes appeared in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. This style of deep clothing can be seen in the silk paintings unearthed from the Chu tomb in Changsha and the costumes of male and female wooden figurines unearthed in Yunmeng, Hubei.