A paper on the development and characteristics of ancient Chinese costumes?
The evolutionary history of human clothing, in a sense, is also a history of perceptual development of human culture. Clothing is a unique achievement of human labor, not only the crystallization of material civilization, but also the connotation of spiritual civilization. Human society has been marching slowly from ignorance and barbarism to civilization for hundreds of thousands of years. After bidding farewell to apes, our ancestors wandered in the wind and rain for countless years, and finally struggled to enter the threshold of civilized times, learned to shelter from the wind and rain, and created material civilization. However, pursuing beauty is human nature. Clothing people, like gold to Buddha, not only covers the body and warms the body, but also beautifies it. Almost from the day when costumes originated, people deposited their own living customs, aesthetic tastes, color hobbies, as well as various cultural mentality and religious concepts in costumes, and constructed the spiritual civilization connotation of costume culture. Clothing in primitive society (before 2 1 century BC) Lu Chunqiu, Shiben and later Huainanzi written by people in the Warring States period all mentioned the Yellow Emperor and Hu Cao or created clothing. From the aspect of unearthed cultural relics, the origin of costume evolution can be traced back to the late Paleolithic period of primitive society. There are 1 root bone needle and 1, 4 1 diamond, bone, shell and tooth ornaments in Zhoukoudian Neanderthal Site in Beijing (about 1.9 million years ago). Facts have proved that simple clothes can be sewn with natural materials such as animal skins. The history of China's clothing culture originated from this. Clothing in Shang and Zhou Dynasties (about16th century BC to 77 1 year BC) The main clothing materials in Shang Dynasty were leather, leather, silk and hemp. Due to the progress of textile technology, silk and linen fabrics have occupied an important position. People in Shang dynasty could weave very fine silk, and this material was very thick in color. In the Western Zhou Dynasty, the hierarchical system was gradually established, and the Zhou Dynasty set up the official positions of "Si Fu" and "Inner Si Fu" to take charge of the royal costumes. According to the literature records and the analysis of unearthed cultural relics, China's crown service system was initially established in the Xia and Shang Dynasties, and was perfected in the Zhou Dynasty, the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. From the anthropomorphic cultural relics unearthed in the Zhou Dynasty, it can be seen that although the clothing decoration is complex and simple, it is clear from top to bottom, which has laid the basic shape of China clothing. During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period (770 ~ 22 BC1), weaving and embroidery technology made great progress, which made the clothing materials more and more refined and the variety names more and more varied. The spread of technology makes a variety of exquisite clothes stand out. During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, it has become a trend that the upper layer is wide and the lower layer is narrow. Deep clothes have the meaning of hiding the body. They are the casual clothes of domestic literati and the dresses of Shu Ren people. They are unisex and may have been formed at the turn of the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. The ribbon-cutting of the deep clothes is unique, and the clothes and shirts are connected together. When making, it is cut up and down with a seam in the middle. They are the most widely used, and the grandeur is second only to that of the Korean clothing. In 307 BC, King Wuling of Zhao issued the order of Khufu to promote "Khufu riding and shooting". Khufu refers to the costume of "Hu Ren" at that time, which is quite different from Dai Bo who took off his coat in the Central Plains. It is characterized by knee-length clothes, a fruit belt around the waist, hooks and boots, which is convenient for riding and shooting activities. During the Qin and Han Dynasties (2265438 BC+0 ~ 220 AD), the clothing was richer in material than during the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, and the deep clothing also got new development. In the third year of Jian Yuan in the Western Han Dynasty (138 BC) and the fourth year of Yuan Shou in the Western Han Dynasty (1 19 BC), Zhang Qian [qiān] was ordered to go to the western regions twice, which opened the land passage between China and western countries. Thousands of silks were exported continuously throughout the Wei, Jin, Sui and Tang Dynasties, which is known as the "Silk Road" in history. As a result, China clothing culture spread to the world. There is no big difference in the clothing system between the Qin Dynasty and the Warring States Period, which keeps the basic form of China's deep service. Men's and women's clothing in the Western Han Dynasty still followed the form of deep clothes. Whether it is a single product or a cotton product, most of the tops and skirts are cut and stitched together, and the upper and lower parts are still not stitched or stitched; There are Hanfu and underwear in the coat, and their leaders are exposed together to become a rigid suit. Wear tight pants and keep the style of "praising clothes and big skirts". In the Qin Dynasty, clothes were black. In the Han Dynasty, there was a clothing system. The history books list more than 20 kinds of dresses, court clothes and uniforms of emperors and courtiers. The grade difference in clothing is very obvious. The main manifestations are as follows: on the basis of following the old system, the crown service has developed into a basic symbol to distinguish grades; The system of matching bases was established as a symbol to distinguish official ranks. In 202 BC, Liu Bang defeated Xiang Yu, established the Han Dynasty, and made Chang 'an its capital. The rulers in the early Han dynasty learned the lesson of Qin's death and adopted a policy of relaxing taxes on farmers. The general system has not changed much, and the crown service system has mostly inherited the Qin system. It was not until the second year of Yongping in the Eastern Han Dynasty that there were formal and complete regulations. At the beginning of Han Dynasty, due to the policy of recuperation adopted by the rulers, the economy was restored and developed, and a peaceful and prosperous era of "the rule of culture and scenery" appeared. Agriculture and handicrafts have been greatly improved. The most common folk handicraft industry at that time was the textile industry. During this period, the brilliant output of silk was enormous. Textile processing in the Han Dynasty also reached a high level. The main costumes in the Han Dynasty were robes and skirts [straight single clothes] and skirts [short clothes]. In the Han Dynasty, because of the very developed weaving and embroidery industries, rich people could wear beautiful clothes of silk and satin. Ordinary people wear short pants, and the poor wear short brown [short clothes made of coarse cloth]. Women in the Han dynasty wore two-piece dresses and robes, and there were many styles of skirts, the most famous of which was the fairy skirt. According to legend, after Zhao Yanfei became a queen in the Han Dynasty, she liked to wear skirts. Once, she wore a colorful purple dress and went swimming in a pool with Emperor Han Chengdi. Swallows danced and skirts fluttered in the sound of drums. Just then, the wind blew, and she was blown like a light swallow. Emperor Cheng ordered his attendants to hold her, only to catch her skirt in a panic. The queen was saved, but there were many wrinkles on her skirt. But strangely, the pleated skirt looks better than the one without pleats before. Since then, ladies-in-waiting have followed suit, which is the "fairy dress" at that time. ]