1870- 1890 period
Princess skirt, a fitting dress, is characterized by protruding buttocks, similar to the hip pad Basl that appeared in the last century. It is considered to be the resurrection of Basl, so this period is called Basl period. At this time, women are required to hold their breasts and abdomen to cope with hip protrusion. In order to achieve this appearance, corset is still an indispensable and important dress. The extreme pursuit of appearance features changes the outline of women's body into a soft curve with S-shaped characteristics.
1890-early 20th century
During this period, a new trend of thought appeared in the art field, namely the Art Nouveau Movement. Its characteristic is to deny the traditional modeling style and highlight the linear decoration style with smooth curve modeling. Influenced by the Art Nouveau movement, women's clothes that can embody the beauty of curves are most appreciated. The woman's upper body holds up her chest with a corset, and her waist is slender. Her back naturally hangs down to her hips and draws a beautiful curve. The sleeves of the dress are leg sleeves, which are called gigotsleeve.
Early 20th century
The first stage:
A world war.
1900- 1907
S-shaped clothes at the end of last century are still very popular. The shape of the clothing is basically the same, the upper body is compact, the skirt is wide, the collar is towering, and the chest and buttocks are prominent, and the abdomen is straight. Exaggerated hats are decorated with complex and huge ostrich hair or parrot hair.
The core connotation of the whole design is to cling to the body and bind the female body into a standard style.
For example, the corset, which has dominated the western women's wear stage for more than 300 years, has played an extremely important role in shaping the ideal image of women, and it is undoubtedly an indispensable fashion in this period before it is about to withdraw from the historical stage.
The second stage:
1907- 19 14 (traditional to modern women's wear)
The most remarkable feature of women's dress change at this stage is that the S-shaped dress that has been popular for decades gradually faded, the corset was improved and the lines tended to be straight. In the fierce competition between young women and middle-aged and elderly women, women's dress has changed from the traditional form of breast enhancement, waist-binding and hip-binding to the modern form of flat chest, waist-binding and hip-binding.
1907, the fashion of clothing with special emphasis on S-curve gradually slowed down, the length of women's clothing extended downward, the waist circumference became larger and the hip circumference contracted.
1908, women's clothing continued to transform into a straight line with relaxed waist, and the skirt began to leave the ground, revealing the upper.
After 1909, staggered skirts tightly wrapped around hips and legs appeared and quickly became a fashion. The neckline of women's wear has become larger, and the accessories are also popular with art nouveau jewelry and colorful bead chains strung with ribbons.
The third stage: (from World War I to the post-war period)
Women's wear is developing towards simplicity and portability.
19 14 after the war broke out, elegant and complicated clothes were quickly replaced by clothes adapted to wartime environment, and the length of skirts became shorter, revealing feet and ankles.
19 15, the skirt length was shortened to the calf. During the war, women wore work clothes. Common work clothes are loose, pocketed, calf-long coats. Some people wear pants and boots to match their clothes.
In the years before and during the war, clothes and skirts became thin and short, and two-piece clothes were common. Hats gradually became smaller during the war. And the style of women's clothing also imitates men's uniforms. Generally speaking, fashion has become more straightforward, and unnecessary decorations have been removed.
The war completely changed the overall image of women in this period, and western women's clothing became functional and portable, initially completing the transformation to modern form. In the development of western women's clothing from tradition to modernity, it is not difficult to see that the key to change is the transformation and disposal of corsets; The basis of change is the change of lifestyle and dress concept; The opportunity of change is the first promotion of women's status.
Since the 20th century, a major breakthrough in women's clothing is that pants have gradually become one of the important contents. After World War I, more and more women began to regard pants as formal clothes, and fashion designers also regarded pants as design elements. The development and popularization of women's trousers are complementary to the degree of women's liberation. It can be said that the more liberated women are, the more popular pants are.
At this time, shirts that have been used as underwear in Europe were worn as coats by Americans and began to spread around the world.
In 1930s, the "boy style" of women's clothing began to disappear, straight lines were replaced by curves, and the graceful lines of women's bodies reappeared. Especially evening dresses, the back is almost bare to the waist, sleeveless, and the waist and buttocks are tightly wrapped. Sometimes the shoulders are decorated with narrow ribbons or huge artificial flowers and widened to the buttocks.
In 1950s, women's wear became more casual and free. During this period, in addition to the "bishop's sleeve" with loose armpits and tight cuffs, the upright collar appeared again. The skirt is still in the middle of the calf, which is relatively loose.