In the pre-Qin period, the dress characteristics of the Chinese nation were tops with skirts and tops with belts off. On the right side of the clothes are narrow sleeves, which are up and down to the knees. The collar, sleeves, lapels and ruffles are all decorated with lace, and there are no buttons to tie the waist. The dress of the Hu people is a short coat with narrow sleeves and left trousers and leather boots. King Wuling of Zhao introduced Hu clothes into the Central Plains, which had a positive impact on the changes of Chinese costumes in the Warring States, Qin and Han Dynasties.
During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, a new type of clothing called deep clothes appeared. "Book of Rites Deep Clothes" Kong Ying Da just said: "Deep clothes are connected with clothes, and the quilt is deep, so it is called deep clothes." People in the Warring States, Qin and Han Dynasties wore deep clothes, regardless of rank, gender, civil and military. Nobles take crowns as dresses, deep clothes as uniforms, civilians take deep clothes as auspicious clothes and short brown as uniforms. Thick clothes with frills should be accompanied by a belt. The gentry belt made of silk by nobles has become popular, so it is called gentleman or gentry belt. The two ends of the belt are connected by hooks and rings, which is called hook belt or hanging belt. The belt can be hung or worn with swords, bows and arrows, seals, wallets and other items.
There was no cotton in the pre-Qin period, and the so-called "cloth" refers to clothes cut with linen. Fine linen in summer is called kudzu vine, and in winter there are robes and fur. A robe is a coat worn inside, which is filled with silk hair and called a quilt, and filled with old hair and called a robe. The poor can't afford to fill silk floss, only some rags, called robes. Because nightgowns are underwear, they can only be worn at home, not as clothes. When you go out, you can only wear it in a formal suit. The short robe was called Yan, and later it was called coat. Rough texture is called brown. Qiu is a kind of fur clothing, and it is also the main winter clothing in the pre-Qin period.
The costumes in the Qin and Han dynasties were richer than those in the pre-Qin period. The Book of Rites says, "Clothes are not silk." Is this because of peace? It's all underwear Confucianism advocates frugality and believes that silk should not be used to cut underwear. In the Six Dynasties, those aristocratic men actually made trousers out of white silk, so they were called "dude". Ancient trousers usually had no crotch, only two leg tubes, and the upper ends of the two leg tubes were connected together and tied at the waist with a belt, so they were called Kun. "Shi Ming" said: Cross also. These two strands cross each other. "Kun is underwear and can't be exposed. You must wear a skirt or thick clothes outside. Civilians wear short clothes at work, but they have to wear a bag of crotch cloth inside, just like the clothes of Japanese sumo wrestlers. In the early song dynasty, you can still see this way of wearing. Pants with crotch are called crotch. Short as a cow's nose, commonly known as calf's nose pants. Sima Xiangru returned to Chengdu with Zhuo Wenjun, wearing oxnose pants as a washing machine, humiliating Zhuo Wangsun.
A man's coat is also called a robe. The robe is called Mei, and the sleeves are loose. The cuffs are tight. The robe is lined. This is a jacket. Single coat is called. Robes and? There are two kinds of skirts: curved and straight, and curved is deep clothes. It is inconvenient to wrap the body when wearing deep clothes, and it is slowly replaced by straight clothes. Women wear one-piece deep clothes or slit skirts, and there is little difference between the styles of women's clothes and men's clothes in Han Dynasty.
During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, costumes changed twice. First, the pattern of China costumes was broken, and second, Hu costumes were absorbed and integrated into Han costumes.
The evolutionary history of human clothing, in a sense, is also a history of perceptual development of human culture.
Clothing is a unique achievement of human labor, not only the crystallization of material civilization, but also the connotation of spiritual civilization. Human society has been marching slowly from ignorance and barbarism to civilization for hundreds of thousands of years. After bidding farewell to apes, our ancestors wandered in the wind and rain for countless years, and finally struggled to enter the threshold of civilized times, learned to shelter from the wind and rain, and created material civilization. However, pursuing beauty is human nature. Clothing people, like gold to Buddha, not only covers the body and warms the body, but also beautifies it. Almost from the day when costumes originated, people deposited their own living customs, aesthetic tastes, color hobbies, as well as various cultural mentality and religious concepts in costumes, and constructed the spiritual civilization connotation of costume culture.
People in the Warring States Period wrote Lu's Spring and Autumn Annals, Shiben and later Huainanzi all mentioned the Yellow Emperor, Hu Cao or created clothes. From the aspect of unearthed cultural relics, the origin of costume evolution can be traced back to the late Paleolithic period of primitive society. There are 1 root bone needle and 1, 4 1 diamond, bone, shell and tooth ornaments in Zhoukoudian Neanderthal Site in Beijing (about 1.9 million years ago). Facts have proved that simple clothes can be sewn with natural materials such as animal skins. The history of China's clothing culture originated from this.
Costumes of Shang and Zhou Dynasties (about BC16th century to BC 77 1 year)
Clothing materials in Shang Dynasty were mainly leather, leather, silk and hemp. Due to the progress of textile technology, silk and linen fabrics have occupied an important position. People in Shang dynasty could weave very fine silk, and this material was very thick in color.
In the Western Zhou Dynasty, the hierarchical system was gradually established, and the Zhou Dynasty set up the official positions of "Si Fu" and "Inner Si Fu" to take charge of the royal costumes. According to the literature records and the analysis of unearthed cultural relics, China's crown service system was initially established in the Xia and Shang Dynasties, and was perfected in the Zhou Dynasty, the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period.
From the anthropomorphic cultural relics unearthed in the Zhou Dynasty, it can be seen that although the clothing decoration is complex and simple, it is clear from top to bottom, which has laid the basic shape of China clothing.
Clothing in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period (770 ~ 22 BC1)
During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the technology of weaving and embroidering has made great progress, making the clothing materials more and more refined and the varieties and names more and more. The spread of technology makes a variety of exquisite clothes stand out.
During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, it has become a trend that the upper layer is wide and the lower layer is narrow.
Deep clothes have the meaning of hiding the body. They are the casual clothes of domestic literati and the dresses of Shu Ren people. They are unisex and may have been formed at the turn of the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. The ribbon-cutting of the deep clothes is unique, and the clothes and shirts are connected together. When making, it is cut up and down with a seam in the middle. They are the most widely used, and the grandeur is second only to that of the Korean clothing.
In 307 BC, King Wuling of Zhao issued the order of Khufu to promote "Khufu riding and shooting". Khufu refers to the costume of "Hu Ren" at that time, which is quite different from Dai Bo who took off his coat in the Central Plains. It is characterized by knee-length clothes, a fruit belt around the waist, hooks and boots, which is convenient for riding and shooting activities.
Clothing in Qin and Han Dynasties (2265438 BC+0 ~ 220 AD)
Compared with the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the material in this period was richer, and the deep clothes also got new development.
In the third year of Jian Yuan in the Western Han Dynasty (138 BC) and the fourth year of Yuan Shou in the Western Han Dynasty (1 19 BC), Zhang Qian [qiān] was ordered to go to the western regions twice, which opened the land passage between China and western countries. Thousands of silks were exported continuously throughout the Wei, Jin, Sui and Tang Dynasties, which is known as the "Silk Road" in history. As a result, China clothing culture spread to the world.
There is no big difference in the clothing system between the Qin Dynasty and the Warring States Period, which keeps the basic form of China's deep service. Men's and women's clothing in the Western Han Dynasty still followed the form of deep clothes. Whether it is a single product or a cotton product, most of the tops and skirts are cut and stitched together, and the upper and lower parts are still not stitched or stitched; There are Hanfu and underwear in the coat, and their leaders are exposed together to become a rigid suit. Wear tight pants and keep the style of "praising clothes and big skirts". In the Qin Dynasty, clothes were black.
In the Han Dynasty, there was a clothing system. The history books list more than 20 kinds of dresses, court clothes and uniforms of emperors and courtiers. The grade difference in clothing is very obvious. The main manifestations are as follows: on the basis of following the old system, the crown service has developed into a basic symbol to distinguish grades; The system of matching bases was established as a symbol to distinguish official ranks.
In 202 BC, Liu Bang defeated Xiang Yu, established the Han Dynasty, and made Chang 'an its capital. The rulers in the early Han dynasty learned the lesson of Qin's death and adopted a policy of relaxing taxes on farmers. The general system has not changed much, and the crown service system has mostly inherited the Qin system. It was not until the second year of Yongping in the Eastern Han Dynasty that there were formal and complete regulations.
At the beginning of Han Dynasty, due to the policy of recuperation adopted by the rulers, the economy was restored and developed, and a peaceful and prosperous era of "the rule of culture and scenery" appeared. Agriculture and handicrafts have been greatly improved. The most common folk handicraft industry at that time was the textile industry. During this period, the brilliant output of silk was enormous. Textile processing in the Han Dynasty also reached a high level.
The main costumes of the Han Dynasty are robes, waist-binding, waist-binding and skirts. In the Han dynasty, because the textile and embroidery industries were very developed, the rich could wear beautiful clothes of silk and satin. Ordinary people wear short pants, and the poor wear short brown [short clothes made of coarse cloth]. Women in the Han dynasty wore two-piece dresses and robes, and there were many styles of skirts, the most famous of which was the fairy skirt.
According to legend, Zhao liked wearing skirts very much after becoming the queen of the Han Dynasty. Once, she wore a colorful purple dress and went swimming in a pool with Emperor Han Chengdi. Swallows danced and skirts fluttered in the sound of drums. Just then, the wind blew, and she was blown like a light swallow. Emperor Cheng ordered his attendants to hold her, only to catch her skirt in a panic. The queen was saved, but there were many wrinkles on her skirt. But strangely, the pleated skirt looks better than the one without pleats before. Since then, ladies-in-waiting have followed suit, which is the "fairy dress" at that time. 〕
The unprecedented material wealth created by the Han Dynasty made the Han people have optimistic confidence in human productivity. In the History of China's Aesthetic Thoughts, the author said, "Han people inherited the basic ideas of Taoist aesthetics, but also abandoned their negative ideas about being born, absorbed some reasonable views of Confucianism, paid attention to the unity of natural laws and human purposes, and firmly believed that there were infinitely rich and diverse beauties in the vast external world, and people should actively discover, possess and enjoy them."
Costumes in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties (220 ~ 589)
During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, grade costumes changed and national costumes merged. Wei Chu and Cao Wen have established the system of nine-rank official posts. "Purple, red and green are the three colors that distinguish nine-rank official posts". Since then, this system has been used in successive dynasties until the Yuan and Ming Dynasties.
During the Southern and Northern Dynasties, northern minorities entered the Central Plains, people lived in different places, and political, economic and cultural customs infiltrated each other, forming a situation of great integration, which led to the development of costumes. The folds of northern national shorts have gradually become the mainstream, and both men and women can wear them, regardless of grade. Women's clothing is "frugal and rich".
From the end of the Eastern Jin Dynasty to the period of Qi and Liang Dynasties, dresses were skirts, which originated in the Han Dynasty. In the Jin dynasty, it had the characteristics of short coat and wide skirt. Influenced by the etiquette of the Han Dynasty, ethnic minorities wore Hanfu.
In the 18th year of Taihe (494), after Xianbei Northern Wei moved its capital to Luoyang, Emperor Xiaowen of Wei promoted the policy of sinicization, changed Tuoba as his surname, and led hundreds of officials to wear Han and Wei costumes. It turns out that Xianbei people are wearing small sleeve clothes with collars. This reform of the old customs, called "filial piety reform", has enabled the old system of crown clothing to continue since the Qin and Han Dynasties and promoted the development of China's clothing culture.
The costumes of Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties still inherited the old system of Qin and Han Dynasties. When the Northern and Southern Dynasties just established political power, all ethnic minorities still dressed according to their own customs. Later, influenced by the Han culture, they began to wear Han costumes.
The costumes of the people in the Central Plains, especially casual clothes and uniforms, have absorbed the characteristics of many northern national costumes on the original basis, and the clothes are in good shape. In the Six Dynasties, men wore robes and low skirts, while women wore robes and double skirts, which was very beautiful. For the costumes of this period, please refer to scrolls such as Ode to Luoshen and Biography of Lienv.
The costumes of the Northern Dynasties are characterized by fitted trousers, short robes and various boots. The dress is narrow and short, and the skirt and waist are slightly upturned. Women's clothes are mostly decorated with hairpin flowers, pearls and various corollas, which led to the customization of rockhopper in Song Dynasty.
Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties were a period of great changes in the history of ancient Chinese costumes. At this time, Hu fu became the fashion at that time because a large number of Hu people moved to the Central Plains. Tightness, round neck and split are the characteristics of Khufu.
During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, China was unified by division, stable by war and prosperous in economy and culture. The development of clothing, whether it is material or style, presents an unprecedented brilliant scene.
The most popular women's dress in Sui and Tang Dynasties is skirt, which is the main dress style of women in Tang Dynasty. During the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, women used small sleeve as shorts and wore tight-fitting long skirts with high waists, usually above the waist, and some even tied ribbons under their armpits, giving people a pretty and slender feeling. The skirts in the middle Tang Dynasty are wider than those in the early Tang Dynasty, and the others have not changed much. Women in Sui and Tang Dynasties were well dressed. The "half-arm" handed down from the court has double-breasted pullovers, lapels or collarless styles. The sleeves are elbow-length and waist-length, and a small belt is tied as a chest. Because the neckline is very wide, the upper chest is exposed when wearing it. The half arm lasted for a long time, and then the man wore it. At that time, a long scarf was also popular, which was made of tulle and had flowers painted with silver flowers or gold and silver powder. One end is fixed on the chest strap of the half arm, then put on the shoulder and wrapped around the arm, so it is called silk.
The masculinization of women's clothing was one of the manifestations of social openness in the Tang Dynasty, and it was a fashion for women to wear men's clothing at that time. Tang people are good at integrating northwest minorities with foreign cultures such as Tianzhu and Persia. During the Tang Dynasty from Zhenguan to Kaiyuan, new Hu clothes were very popular.
Song Liao Xia Jinyuan Clothing (947 ~ 1368)
The Song Dynasty basically retained the style of Han costumes, while the costumes of Liao, Xixia, Jinyuan and other dynasties had the characteristics of Qidan, Tangut, Jurchen and Mongolian respectively. National costumes are once again exchanged and integrated.
There are three kinds of costumes in Song Dynasty: official clothes, casual clothes and old clothes. In the Song Dynasty, Luo was the main fabric of official clothes. Due to the old system of the Five Dynasties, the government gave the pro-expensive ministers robes in seven different colors every year. The colors of official uniforms follow the Tang system, with purple being more than three, Zhu being more than five, green being more than seven and green being more than nine. The style of official dress is similar to that of long-sleeved official dress in late Tang Dynasty, but the first dress (crown hat, etc.). ) is already a flat-winged black hat (the wings of the black hat are straight), called straight foot, customized for the monarch and the minister. The clothing in Song Dynasty inherited the Tang Dynasty in color and style, but it blended better and more naturally with the tradition, giving people the feeling of retro style.
During the Song Dynasty, men's wear in the Song Dynasty generally followed the style of the Tang Dynasty. Generally speaking, people wear robes with collars or round necks. When doing things, they put their clothes on their belts. The clothes are black and white. At that time, retired officials and scholar-officials wore a double-breasted robe called "straight edge" ([dusbu, robes and casual clothes worn by ancient scholars and officials, also refers to robes with big collars worn by monks), with large sleeves, black edges at cuffs, neckline and shirt corners, and a square cap on their heads, called "Dongpo towel".
In Song Dynasty, women wore a short jacket with narrow sleeves and a long skirt. Usually, they wear small long-sleeved coats and double-breasted jackets, much like vests today. The neckline and front of the coat are embroidered with beautiful lace. In the early Song Dynasty, all the costumes followed the costume system of the late Tang Dynasty. After the promulgation of the new system, it was gradually divided into sacrificial clothes, royal clothes, official clothes (also called official clothes in the Song Dynasty), seasonal clothes (clothes for civil and military courtiers in season), military uniforms and mourning clothes. The costumes of women in Song Dynasty are similar to those of women in Han Dynasty. They are all slender, with narrow sleeves and crossed collars, wearing elegant long skirts in various colors. Long-sleeved double-breasted lapels are usually worn outside clothes, and embroidered edges are painted in front of the neckline and lapels, which is called "wiping the lapels". The main features of Song Dynasty costumes are freshness, simplicity, naturalness and elegance.
In Song Dynasty, women mainly wore skirts, but they also had pants. Its pants are a special form, including not only close-fitting pants, but also multi-layer pants. In the Song Dynasty, women had the custom of binding their feet, so the skirts didn't reach the ground to show their feet.
Liao, Xixia and Jin were regimes established by the Khitan, Tangut and Jurchen in ancient China, and their costumes reflected the development track of their respective national traditions in long-term cultural exchanges with the Han nationality. Tangut women wear Hu clothes with lapels and the neckline is beautifully embroidered. Khitan and jurchen usually wear long coats and boots with narrow sleeves and knees, which are suitable for hunting immediately; Women wear narrow sleeves with a collar and a full back. They are all left-handed. Contrary to the Han people, the fishing piers they used to wear are widely popular in the mainland. Considering the reality of living together with the Han nationality, the Liao-Jin regime once set up the system of "Southern Officials", ruled the Han nationality in China together with the Han nationality, and adopted the old system of official uniforms in Tang and Song Dynasties for Han officials. The men's wear of Khitan and Jurchen is also adopted by Han people because it is easy to move.
The clothes of Yuan Dynasty are similar to those of Zhou Dynasty, including tight sleeves, short skirts, knee-length clothes and pleated skirts. Shoulder to shoulder and armour to armour are also uniforms. "Shoulder-to-shoulder" is a kind of leather coat that is slightly longer than a jacket. In the Yuan Dynasty, Mongolians called it "the answer of ignorance". Gaby is a kind of clothing that is convenient for riding and shooting. It is collarless and sleeveless, short in the front and long in the back, and connected by loops.
After entering the customs, the Mongols not only kept their own national costumes, but also adopted the court costumes of Han, Tang, Jin and Song Dynasties, such as Tian Tongguan and crimson gauze robe in Tian Zi, Guan Liang in Guan Bai, court clothes and coronation clothes in Luo Qing, and military uniforms in Han nationality.
Clothing in Ming and Qing Dynasties (1368 ~1911)
In the Ming Dynasty, the traditional costumes of Han nationality were the main body, while in the Qing Dynasty, Manchu costumes were the mainstream. The costumes of the upper and lower classes of the two generations have obvious grades. The official dress of the upper class is a symbol of power, which has always been valued by the ruling class. Since the Tang and Song Dynasties, robes and yellow have been exclusively used by the royal family. Since the Southern and Northern Dynasties, purple is the most expensive.
In the Ming Dynasty, because the emperor's surname was Zhu, Zhu was the positive color, and because the Analects of Confucius had "evil purple to take Zhu also", purple was abolished from official uniforms. The most distinctive feature is to use "tonic" to express the grade. The patch is a piece of silk about 40 ~ 50 cm square, embroidered with different patterns, and then sewn on the official clothes, one on the chest and one on the back. Civil servants use birds as a supplement, and military officers use animals, which are divided into nine categories. Usually, T-shirts are distinguished by the length of clothes and the size of sleeves, and the old ones are the most respected. In the Ming dynasty, women used to wear a blouse or a cloud shoulder over their skirts. Bi Xia, Guan Feng, is the dress of women in Ming Dynasty, and it is also the dress used by empresses when they attend sacrificial ceremonies and other important ceremonies. The whole crown is decorated with dragons and phoenixes, which are worn with Xiaguan. Buttons were widely used in the Ming Dynasty, mainly used in dresses, but rarely used in uniforms, and became popular in the late Ming Dynasty. Influenced by the armor of the Eight Banners and the import of foreign goods, folk buttons are gradually widely used in the collars and lapels of clothes.
In the Ming Dynasty, people's clothes were long and short, including shirts or skirts, which basically inherited the old tradition and had a very rich variety. In terms of dress color, civilian wives and daughters can only wear purple, green, pink and other colors to avoid mixing with official clothes; Working people are only allowed to use brown. During the Qing dynasty, shaving and changing clothes were carried out by violent means, and men's clothes were unified according to Manchu customs. In the ninth year of Shunzhi (1652), the regulations on wearing colored epaulettes were promulgated, abolishing the crown clothes with strong colors of Han nationality. In the Ming Dynasty, all men wore their hair in a bun and wore loose clothes, stockings and pumps. In the Qing dynasty, the hair was shaved into braids, and the braids hung behind the head, wearing thin horseshoe cufflinks and tight socks and deep boots. However, according to the law, official and folk costumes are completely different.
The main variety of official uniforms in Qing dynasty is robes and mandarin jackets. A jacket is a coat added to a robe, named after it originated from riding a jacket. It is characterized by a slit at the front and back, and a blue chest (disc for the king of Prince Edward County). Buzi's bird and beast patterns and order are similar to those of the Ming Dynasty. The emperor sometimes wears a yellow jacket to show his special affection. As far as the influence is concerned, mandarin jackets of other colors have gradually become popular among officials and gentry, and become ordinary costumes. Officials above grade four or five still hang beads of Buddha around their necks, which are made of all kinds of precious stones and fragrant wood, which constitutes another feature of official uniforms in the Qing Dynasty. The progress of silk weaving, embroidery, printing and dyeing and various manual occupations created conditions for the richness of clothing varieties in the Qing Dynasty. The development of women's wear in Qing dynasty, Han nationality and Manchu nationality was different. During Kang Yong period, Han women kept Ming style, while clothes and long skirts were popular in small sleeve. After finishing, the clothes are getting fatter and shorter, the cuffs are getting wider and wider, and with the cloud shoulders, the pattern renovation is endless; By the end of the Qing Dynasty, urban women had put on skirts and trousers, which were inlaid with lace and rolled teeth, and most expensive clothes were spent on them.