The discovery of ancient wedding clothes is like this.
Zhou-style wedding dress under coat → Chinese-style wedding dress with deep clothes → Tang-style wedding dress with the same style for men and women → Ming-style wedding dress. From the Han Dynasty to the Tang Dynasty, there were white wedding dresses in the Southern and Northern Dynasties. In the Tang Dynasty, for diplomatic reasons, the wedding dresses of Japan and South Korea all followed the wedding dresses of the Tang Dynasty.
The following is a weekly wedding dress.
In ancient times, weddings were called "faint rituals". Because it was held at dusk, the word "marriage" came into being later. Through Yi Li and other documents, we can see a wedding belonging to the gentry class, with a solemn tone and no immediate celebration, excitement and noise. The whole process described by Yili actually includes two different stages. Before the wedding, the bride's family should visit her father through the media. Take mysterious clothes as the medium. On the wedding day, the new husband wore a knight's medal to marry the bride. The bride was accompanied by Kim, an elderly woman who taught the bride, and two married women went to her husband's house. The new husband wears a knight hat shaped like a jade-free crown. The coat is dark black (blue-black) to symbolize the sky, and the lower skirt (light red) to symbolize the harmony between Yin and Yang. Cover your knees with skirts, brown and red. Black large. Shoes are red shoes, that is, red shoes with double soles. Tim is wearing a black ribbon and a hairpin, and black clothes made of raw silk.
Tim is wearing a black ribbon and a hairpin, and black clothes made of raw silk. Cover your knees, shoes and a big black belt
Married people also wear black silk and embroidered shawls with black and white stripes.
When the bride got on the bus, Tim put on a dress made of melanin yarn to prevent dust. This dress is called "Jing"
In the faint ceremony, the messengers and waiters all wore mysterious costumes, including mysterious crowns, mysterious clothes, dark black or yellow dresses and black robes.
There were no deep clothes in the Zhou Dynasty, but it was appropriate to separate the top coat from the bottom coat. The red skirt should be painted only on the lower edge of the skirt, not the whole skirt.
usually
The groom's dress consists of knight's dress, porch dress, skirt (I can't type it out, so I will type it alone), white silk single coat, white Korean dress and red Korean dress.
When getting married, the bride's dress is a dark black solid color dress, and when meeting her in-laws, it is an evening dress. Wearing a "second" to "follow" hair is a foot or two long.
In Chinese etiquette, by going up one flight of stairs can be used for occasions such as faint ceremony and sacrifice, that is to say, a scholar's wedding can be disguised as a doctor's level and decorated with colored curtains (generally, a scholar's level does not need colored curtains)
Before the Han Dynasty, it was mostly a weekly wedding, and the black and yellow wedding dress symbolized the mystery of heaven and earth.
On the wedding day, the bride wore a decorative wig mixed with real hair. The shape of the wedding dress is the same as that of the man, but the color is different. The petticoat of the coat is black, which means "single-minded". Knees, shoes and big belts are all black with the color of the skirt. In addition, considering the idea of yin and yang and five elements, because black belongs to yin, it is balanced by injecting yang into the red side of the lower edge of the dress.
As you can see here, Zhou-style dress is the "mysterious end-pure clothes" in the three categories-Zhou-style dress ends here, and now it is Tang-style wedding dress-
"Guan Liang's dress-hairpin's dress"
In the Tang Dynasty, it was a wedding in which a scholar dressed up as a crimson dress, so some people thought it was the origin of the red wedding dress. Public service, also known as "provincial service", refers to the daily clothes that Yan wears in general occasions but does not wear at home. Official business has a certain ceremonial function, such as wearing it in a weak ceremony, but it is not as formal as wearing it in court (also known as "clothing"). Official services include crowns, pins and guides, single and white skirts with crimson yarns, belts, square hearts, sock pockets, a pair of shoes and black leather shoes.
Women's wear is made of flowers, women's hair, green clothes and shoes, and leather in Tsing Yi (the same color as clothes). If a husband has an official, he will follow his clothes. The accessories on his head are gold and silver ornaments and colored glasses, which means grade. Since the Han Dynasty, the clothing of Han women is mostly based on deep clothes, because the dress under the coat is a metaphor of women's "moral nobility". For example, a woman's wedding dress in the Tang Dynasty refers to Lan Shen's clothes. However, in the prosperous Tang Dynasty, skirts flourished, and some literati, represented by Mr. Shen Congwen, held the view that "the wedding dresses of literati and women in Tang Dynasty were divided into different styles". Wear the same clothes as Zhai, add double ornaments, one product is nine cymbals, two products are eight cymbals, three products are seven cymbals, four products are six cymbals, and five products are five cymbals. Some people think that Zhai's clothes are made of deep clothes, but since "making the same clothes with Zhai's clothes" is also made of deep clothes, the current mainstream view is in favor of Mr. Shen Congwen. The wedding dress made in the Tang Dynasty combines the solemnity of the past with the warm celebration of later generations. In the Tang dynasty, men's clothes were scarlet and women's clothes were green, so-called boys and girls were born.
"Nine official uniforms-crowned official robes"
What I want to talk about now is the Ming wedding dress that everyone is familiar with. The crown of the queen's dress in the Ming Dynasty was decorated with four phoenixes in Kowloon. Four crested rockhoppers were unearthed in Dingling, Ming Shenzong, with different numbers of dragons and phoenixes. One of them is six dragons and three phoenixes. The dragon pattern is at both ends of the top, and the mouth is long with beads, which seems to have the meaning of playing the phoenix. Bi Xia is also called "Xiapi" and "Pi Bo", which is named after its gorgeous colors like rosy clouds. Embroider a piece of silk around your shoulders and hand it to your chest. Generally speaking, this is the privilege of the nobility: the second-class maid Xiafu is a bronze embroidery (Zhai means long-tailed pheasant); Three products and four products are gold embroidered clouds and peacock patterns; Five embroidered clouds and mandarin ducks; Six products and seven products embroider Xia Yun and practice magpie patterns; Eight products and nine products embroidery proofreading patterns.
The following is how to wear it in various dynasties.
In the Han Dynasty, when a girl got married, she wore crimson clothes and shoes, with her head up, her hair tied in a bun, and various ornaments such as beading and walking bun. The colors of wedding dresses are dark black and crimson, and this mainstream wedding dress color system continued until the Sui and Tang Dynasties.
Different from the open and bold costumes of the Tang Dynasty, the costumes of the Song Dynasty are no longer gorgeous and luxurious, but simple and simple. Women's dresses in Song Dynasty were formal and conservative, with elegant and quiet colors, which strengthened the "covering" function of clothes and curtains, and restrained all "arrogance" in Tang Dynasty. In the Song Dynasty, both princes and nobles and ordinary people liked to wear clothes with straight collars and double-breasted buttons, because it was comfortable and elegant. Ladies' clothes in the Song Dynasty-long sleeves, long skirts and silk in the Song Dynasty-are clothes left over from the late Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties. It was still popular in the Northern Song Dynasty, and it was mostly worn by aristocratic women, but ordinary women could not wear it. Wearing this kind of clothing must be accompanied by gorgeous and exquisite jewelry, including hair ornaments, face ornaments, ear ornaments, neck ornaments and chest ornaments. In the Song Dynasty, the wedding dress was a long-sleeved dress. In the Song Dynasty, the wedding dresses of Sanshe students and Guan descendants could be disguised as nine-grade official uniforms, while the others wore soap shirts and towels. The bride can pretend to be a rockhopper and a wind robe, and the wedding dress is probably cyan.
The Yuan Dynasty was a Mongolian dynasty, so its clothing was naturally a typical Mongolian style. Mongolians usually make a small lock of hair on their foreheads, like peaches. There are also two braids, which are wrapped into two big rings and hung behind the ears, with Dai Li hats on their heads. Because Mongols advocate riding and shooting, their clothing is mainly "drying clothes", which is a short robe, tight and narrow, with many pleats at the waist, which is convenient for riding and shooting.
Compared with "high-quality clothes for grandchildren", the clothes worn by aristocratic women in Yuan Dynasty are much more troublesome. The robes they wear are wide and long, which makes it inconvenient to walk. They often need two maids to help them pull up their robes and wear a tall and long hat. There is not much difference between the wedding clothes and their costumes in Yuan Dynasty, and they still have strong Mongolian costume characteristics.
In the Ming Dynasty, in order to restore the etiquette of the Han nationality, Zhu Yuanzhang formulated a new dress system on the basis of Tang Song and Zhou Han. The dress is the main one, and the color is also very delicate. Most ladies wear red sleeves and robes, while ordinary women can only wear light colors. Although the skirt is wide, there are many styles. The style of the wedding dress is a dress with a feather crown, which is decorated with brilliant jewels and is graceful and gorgeous. The bride wears red gauze on her head, or hangs silk tassels to cover her face, or fans to cover her face. Wearing embroidered shoes symbolizes good luck. Women's wear is mainly made of silk and satin. Embroidered with platinum thread, gold thread and pearl stone, it is a dragon, phoenix and mandarin duck pattern representing the auspicious appearance of dragon and phoenix. This dress can be traced back to the Qing Dynasty. The emperor gave Liang Chugui's daughter a dragon and phoenix robe embroidered with silk thread as a dress.
The Qing Dynasty should be the most familiar dynasty and the most changed dynasty in China's clothing history. The Qing Dynasty was an era when Manchu and Chinese cultures blended, especially the costume culture. At the same time, the Qing dynasty was also a non-Han dynasty that retained the most primitive costume tradition after Manchu entered the Central Plains. The complete set of clothing has changed the basic form of ancient Chinese clothing formed for thousands of years, and it is the combination of ancient clothing and modern clothing in China. Its existence is the premise of the development of modern men's jackets and robes and women's cheongsam.
The most primitive cheongsam appeared in the Qing Dynasty. Manchu women are dominated by cheongsam, with slender figure and short sleeves, which is in sharp contrast with China's long-sleeved dresses with wide robes that have lasted for thousands of years. The wedding dress in Qing Dynasty also followed the summer dress in Guan Feng in Ming Dynasty. Although it was mainly red, the style of the wedding dress was based on cheongsam. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, under the advocacy of bourgeois reformists, a trend of changing customs was set off. Men rebelled against the Manchu Dynasty and demanded the restoration of Hanfu, while women rebelled against wearing cheongsam after the Revolution of 1911. Especially in the late Qing Dynasty, brides often wear oriental heads, western-style dresses, western-style leather shoes and red shoes and green socks under the phoenix crown at weddings. In the future, it will be the wedding we see now.