Travel, you can suddenly polish your dim and tired eyes, stretch your frowning brows at will, throw away your troubles at will, and broaden your cramped heart infinitely.
In October of that year, 1 1, I spent three days wandering, staying in Suzhou, which I have been longing for for for a long time, and strolling along the longitude and latitude lines of the ancient city of Gusu.
Suzhou, on the other hand, is a woman with a sad mood like cloves. Quiet and ancient light and shadow set off a beautiful and graceful face. She lowered her eyes for a moment and came to me with an oil-paper umbrella.
0 1 looming in the city-lion forest
The hotel is located in an alley with concentrated scenic spots in the ancient city, called Bashang Alley. Surrounded by criss-crossing streets, you can go directly to Humble Administrator's Garden and Lion Grove. Suzhou gardens, of course, are based on Humble Administrator's Garden, and are naturally inferior to other gardens in terms of scenery, scale and fame. Considering that the garden pays attention to allusions, and the focus of this trip is to measure ancient streets on foot, I chose to go to Lion Forest.
If planting chrysanthemums in Nanshan is a small seclusion away from temples, then the quiet Suzhou gardens in the noise meet the ideal of literati living in seclusion in the city. Lion forest has two names: one is named after countless rockeries that look like lions. Many old people in Suzhou climbed the rockery in this garden when they were children. Second, it was built by Wei Ze, a Buddhist monk, by Buddhist disciples in Yuan Dynasty to commemorate the relationship between master and apprentice. As a teacher, "lion" can also use Buddhist terms such as "Leo" and "Lion Roar".
The lion can say that although the sparrow is small and complete, it is enough to see the characteristics of Suzhou gardens. The corridor in the park is circular, the main hall is solemn and solemn, and the winding path is secluded. There are suitable stone tablets above the door, such as "entering victory" and "exploring seclusion". The doorway is round with four petals. They are excellent frames, framing the rugged rocks and green cypresses in the garden. Taking a photo at any station is the effect of people traveling in the picture world.
It's early winter, and the flowers and trees are depressed, but there are still towering ancient camphor trees and vigorous Gu Song. There is a green water in the garden, and the artificial waterfall on the high slope winds down below, making the pool water in the garden lifelike.
The pavilions of Shangshiqiao River are strewn at random, and the lotus flowers in the water sway with the wind. There is a maze of rockery, and there are several passages in the rockery. I tried to cross here, but the road was blocked many times, so I climbed up and dived in the rockery for a while, but I couldn't reach the other side of the pool. After several turns, I had no choice but to go home. No wonder Emperor Qianlong personally approved the word "true interest" and imitated a similar rockery in Beijing. Think about the originality of garden builders. A rockery has many "organs", not to mention the layout and structure of the whole garden.
I'm just a layman in garden art, so I can't interpret it from a professional perspective. I just think all the elements are just right, which makes people relax and rest. Come to the west-the tranquility here may be the ideal and perfect place to "hide in the city".
No.02 Pingjiang Road-1 Petty bourgeoisie distribution center
If you see young people aged 20-35 in Pingjiang Road, Suzhou, sitting quietly by a small bridge, wearing plain makeup or light makeup, wearing headphones in their ears, a book by Haruki Murakami or Anne Baby on the table, slender fingers holding delicate white porcelain cups, and occasionally sipping mellow coffee, don't doubt that they are the legendary petty bourgeoisie. They are defined as "literary youth" by the popular label-literary youth. Then, you were depressed, suspicious and dancing in college.
On the other hand, Pingjiang Road provides all the elements.
The gurgling of a river and clear water is the constant blood and vitality of this city for thousands of years. Occasionally, boatmen and tourists waddled past, rowed across the slightly tumbling river, and talked endlessly about the past. Yamato's ancient house is half covered by weeping willows and holly on the river bank, like a continuous roll of ink painting. The weather-beaten wall has been peeled off by time. The vines spread along the wall, and the moss was wet and warm, like light green paint spilled at random. The red lanterns hanging under the eaves add a little surprise to the gray tone, just like the red ChloDan painted on the fingertips of a woman with a plain face.
There are dozens of stone bridges on the other side of Pingjiang Road, and we have seen the ancient city of Gusu for hundreds of years. After crossing the bridge, they also walked into the homes of ordinary people in ordinary streets. They lit dim lights and spoke soft words of Wu Nong, gradually burying their long history in their daily fireworks life.
Here, specialty shops are arranged in turn along the ancient streets. Tea shops, clothing stores, bookstores, cafes, restaurants and hotels all have different moods. The name of the store has profound implications and unique decoration. Most shopkeepers have petty bourgeoisie complex, listening to songs, reading books and chatting. Even in the off-season, they will not deliberately solicit business. Just walk into a concept bookstore, buy a famous hand-painted map of Suzhou, buy a cup of signature milk tea and sit down.
Here, time is wasted, there is no need to race against time. To tell the truth, this brand of milk tea is not as delicious as the legend. I even think it is pink to white, which is not worth the money in kind. But in the room, the music flows slowly, and outside the window, sparse pedestrians pass by. Time is quiet and lovely. What do you care?
The grandmother who sells white orchids falters, and her kind face with silver hair reminds me of her. So I bought one, and grandma kindly pinned a dollar on my skirt, in exchange for fragrant flowers and warm little touches. Pingjiang Road, where you can't see flowers across the barrier, is filled with thick breath, which allows you to get in close contact and really feel the clear pulse of small bridges and flowing water.
Garden Dream-Kunqu Opera Museum
Kunqu opera has a history of more than 600 years, which is different from the majestic atmosphere of Beijing opera. The delicate and graceful cultural and geographical environment in the south has given birth to the unique "ink tune" of Kunqu opera, and the singer's singing, reading, sitting and playing are full of feelings.
Suzhou Kunqu Opera Museum is in the hutong of Pingjiang Road, next to others. Its predecessor was the All-Jin Guild Hall built by Shanxi merchants. There are long corridors, small ponds and green banana rockeries in the pavilion, but at this time, the season is bleak, the drizzle is like silk, and people are sparse. The museum displays ancient books, props, wood carvings, inscriptions and New Year pictures related to Kunqu Opera, all of which show the grand occasion of listening to Kunqu Opera in an empty lane.
There is an ancient stage in the museum, and the plaque says "Celebrate the whole world", which is in contrast to the silence of the scene at this time. There are two strings of red lanterns hanging on the cornice, dotted with pigeon gray sky and empty stage.
Sitting there in a daze, the contrast of time makes people think deeply. In The Year of Peony Pavilion, Du Liniang and Liu Mengmei's flowing eyes, fluttering clothes and faint songs seem to penetrate the mountains and rivers.
"It is so colorful, just like this, all this is for a broken well and a decaying wall. Its beautiful moment is like this. Who is the host of the party? Flying in the evening, cloud pavilions, wind and rain, smoke and waves painting boats, Jinping people especially look gorgeous and despicable. " Good discount "Dream Garden"! The classic love between life and death, "I don't know what it is, but it's gone forever", is a dream story. Maybe everyone has some classical feelings in their hearts. It can be "flowers and plants are loved by people" or "life and death are as people wish", which makes people willing to take half a day off from the bleak years like plain water and go to the theater to dream with the actors.
How do you know spring is like this if you don't go to the garden? How can you know the ancient rhyme without going to Suzhou? The opera is over, so is the trip to Suzhou. Let me slowly stew what I have seen and thought in these three days, and continue my classical dream with this long-lost feeling of returning to Gansu.