Mix, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, majoring in fashion design in 2009.

abstract

Chunyafang, as an established enterprise in textile industry, has been especially used in textile industry in recent years. In order to better meet the needs of users, the factory revised Chunya Spinning. At present, the common varieties on the market are semi-elastic spring spinning, fully elastic spring spinning, and blunt spring spinning (Shack). Shack is particularly prominent in the revision. It adopts the change of weaving technology and raw materials of matt yarn, and extends the production line after finishing dyeing and finishing, so that its density is increased, its hand feel is softer and its application range is wider. At present, there are jacquard, woven, plain and stiff fabrics in the market, which have been selling well for many years.

Key words: sub-spinning with matte spring, sub-spinning with semi-elastic spring, sub-spinning with full elastic spring,

One or three kinds of spring Asian spinning fabrics

At present, there are mainly three kinds of fabrics produced on the market: 1 and sub-gloss chunyafang (Shack); 2. Semi-elastic spring Asian spinning; 3. Full elastic spring Asian spinning.

1. 1 dull spring Asian spinning (shack)

"Blunt spring spinning" adopts full elastic spring spinning, commonly known as "shack". The warp and weft of the fabric are made of polyester dull DTY75D/72F or 50D/72F (net yarn), and the 300T fabric is woven with plain weave and double weave. The weaving process is unique, and the application of "environmental protection" dyeing in the dyeing and finishing process greatly improves the appearance of the fabric, especially the matte polyester fabric, which has a softer color.

"Matte spring spinning" fabric has a wide range of applications. Its cloth surface is smooth, light and firm, wear-resistant, good in elasticity and luster, non-shrinking, easy to wash, quick-drying, good in hand feeling, corrosion-resistant, non-discoloring, high-temperature resistant and waterproof. However, when the color fastness to rubbing, perspiration and water of Shack is above 4, 3 and 3 respectively, the fabric can be stored for decades without oxidative aging. Therefore, after listing, it has been favored by merchants in the north and south, forming a sales hotspot in the market. Its cloth width is 160cm. The current market price of blank is between 4.70-4.90 yuan/meter. In second and third tier cities, the dyeing processing fee is generally around 1.20- 1.40 yuan/m, and the shrinkage rate of dyed fabrics is around 8 points. In terms of market colors, camel gray, coffee, navy blue, khaki and other colors are most popular with merchants. Fabric can be used to make autumn leisure coats, children's clothes, raincoats and so on. According to the market operator, this kind of fabric is not only sold in the domestic market, but also sold to dozens of overseas countries. With the change of weather and the renewal of people's clothing fabrics, the prospect of "plain spring Asian spinning" will be very bright.

1.2 semi-elastic spring Asian spinning

"Semi-elastic spring Asian spinning" fabric has been used to make lining accessories such as suits, suits, jackets, children's wear and professional wear. Nowadays, with the development of domestic exhibition and advertising industry, the demand for flags is increasing day by day, and "semi-elastic spring Asian spinning" has become a major sales highlight of China Oriental Silk Market in Wujiang. The warp yarn of the fabric is polyester FDY60D/24F, and the weft yarn is DTY100 D/36 F. The warp and weft density is 386*280/10cm, commonly known as170t; The plain weave is woven on the water jet loom, and the grey cloth is softened, reduced, dyed and shaped. The surface of the fabric shows its style characteristics with the luster of polyester yarn, which has the advantages of soft and smooth feel, not easy to crack, not easy to fade and bright luster, and is especially suitable for making various colored flags. In particular, the embossed lining is comparable to the jacquard lining, and the price is much cheaper. The width of the finished fabric is 150cm, and the square meter weight is about 100 g. At present, the transaction price of grey cloth in the market is between 1.50- 1.60 yuan/meter. After dyeing and finishing, the products are processed by mechanical high-temperature finishing and calendering, which belongs to "environmental protection" deep processing, making the lining bright, soft and breathable, and won the favor of clothing manufacturers.

1.3 fully elastic spring Asian spinning

"All-spring Asian spinning" has many varieties and complete specifications, of which 240T and 300T are the most popular in the market. The warp and weft of the fabric are interwoven with polyester DTY75D/72F (net yarn), and the fabric is woven into plain weave (1/2 twill and 1/3 twill). The weaving process is unique. The application of "environmental protection" dyeing in dyeing and finishing process has greatly improved the appearance and luster of cloth surface. After dyeing and finishing, the post-processing technology continues, such as coating PVC, PU, spinning velvet coating, electric embroidery with other fabrics, powder point compounding, sanding, calendering, etc., which makes the application scope of all-elastic spring Asian spinning wider and the market sales increase year by year. The width of finished fabric is 148CM, the current market price of white grey fabric is between 2.65-2.85 yuan/m, and 240T is around 4.00 yuan/m. The dyeing processing fee in Shengze area is generally around 1.80 yuan/m, and the shrinkage rate of dyed fabric is 8- 10%. In terms of color, camel gray, coffee, rose red, yellow and other colors are most popular with merchants. After different finishing processes, the fabric has a wide range of uses, and can be used to make down jackets, casual jackets, children's clothes, waterproof coated fabrics, waterproof clothes, umbrellas, ponchos, awnings and so on. Some market transactions choose colors to order, and some spot transactions. This kind of fabric not only sells well in the domestic market, but also sells to dozens of overseas countries, and the sales volume is like sesame blossoms.

Second, the difference between taffeta, Yaguang Chunyafang (Shaq) and polyester taffeta.

2. 1 taffeta

Taft, also known as taffeta, is a kind of high-grade woven silk with plain weave. Warp yarns are made of double-twist cooked yarns, and weft yarns are made of combined single-twist cooked yarns. Based on plain weave, the fabric has high density and is the densest variety of silk fabrics. Taffon is characterized by fine, clean and smooth surface, flat and beautiful appearance, good luster, dense fabric and stiff hand feel, but it is easy to produce permanent creases after folding. So it is not suitable for folding and heavy pressure, and drum packaging is often used. There are many kinds of taffeta, according to the raw materials used: silk taffeta, double palace taffeta, silk-cotton interwoven taffeta, silk weft taffeta, rayon taffeta, polyester taffeta and so on. According to the weaving process, there are plain taffeta, flash taffeta, plaid taffeta, jacquard taffeta and so on.

2.2 dreary spring Asian spinning (shack)

Chunya spinning is commonly known as rainproof cloth, which can also be called "coated nylon spinning". Its fabric is smooth, light and firm, wear-resistant, good in elasticity and luster, non-shrinking, easy to wash and dry, and good in hand feel. In the second half of 2004, after using matte silk, Chunya textile fabrics entered the market with a colorful new look. Matte polyester fabric is softer in color and attractive, which is suitable for making casual wear, sportswear and children's wear. There are dozens of colors, which are fashionable and beautiful, adding attractive charm. Dull spring Asian spinning is easily accepted by ordinary people because of its beautiful appearance and low price.

2.3 polyester taffeta

Polyester taffeta is a thin polyester fabric with specifications of 190T and 250T, and the general market price is 2-2.5 yuan/m. polyester taffeta is suitable for the lining of high-grade clothes such as jackets, umbrellas, car covers, sportswear, ocean umbrellas, handbags, bags, sleeping bags, tents, artificial flowers, shower curtains, tablecloths and chair covers. Polyester taffeta is also a traditional fabric of chemical fiber fabric, which was popular for a period of time, but with the rise of a number of new chemical fiber fabrics, sales declined.

To sum up, Shack is more wrinkle-resistant and wear-resistant than taffeta, thicker than polyester taffeta and lower in price. Moreover, the matte spring sub-spinning (Shack) has the characteristics of non-oxidation, firmness, wear resistance and beautiful color, and is easily accepted by the public. It is also widely used in textiles and sells well all the year round.

Third, the model distinction of Yaguang Spring Spinning (Shack)

For example, the "t" in "1" and "240T spring Asian spinning" is interpreted as: the sum of the number of warp yarns and weft yarns per inch is called "t". (1 inch =2.54CM)2, 75D* 150D/288F: refers to polyester yarn with warp yarn of 75D, weft yarn of 150D (denier) and 288F (film).

D is the abbreviation of denier, which is a fineness representation of chemical fiber. Refers to the weight grams of 9000-meter-long silk when measuring moisture regain, also known as denier. The bigger the D, the thicker the yarn. 75D is thicker than 50D.

S is the abbreviation of English branch, which is used to indicate the fineness of pure cotton yarn. Refers to the number of 840 yards (1 yard =0.9 144 meters) of cotton yarn weighing one pound (454 grams). Just a few 840 yards, just a few. So the bigger s is, the thinner the yarn is. Example: 32S is thinner than 21s.

refer to

1. Editor-in-Chief Ni. Textile and Fashion Design (1st Edition), Beijing, China Textile Press, 2008.

2. Qu Caixin edited by Zhang Ronghua. Fundamentals of Textile Materials (1st Edition), Beijing, China Textile Publishing House, 2004.