Take a fish to see the lights in the first month, and a fake golden dragon in February.
March is yellow and full of meat, and April Balang has no scales.
Fish, horses, mackerel and pomfret are good in May, and the battlefield is sharp in June.
In July, the red mane wears a red coat, and in August, the red fish is the bride.
In September, the red crab has belly cream, and in October, its feet are hairless.
1 1 month Mo Dou receives smoke screen,1February lobster holds combat knives.
However, fish are different: some are fat, some are thin, some are tender, some are tight, some are bony, and some are less prickly. In order to make all kinds of ingredients do their best, Chaoshan people who are good at blending Tintin invented some different cooking methods.
1. In Chaoshan, fish is rice.
Fish rice is a unique practice in Chaoshan area.
Wash the fish and soak it in light salt water for about 30 minutes. Then put it in a bamboo sieve, sprinkle with Shanghai salt, cover the steamer, press stones to prevent the fish from deforming during cooking, and then hang a number of bamboo sieves on a hanger and cook them in a strong brine pot. This process usually takes 15 minutes. Cook the fish, pour in boiling salt water, and finally let it cool for a few hours, and the raw fish will be cooked into fish rice.
Fish rice is not rice, so called, the gourmet Mr. Zhang Xinmin made a textual research:
There are two opinions about the name of fish rice: one thinks that the cooked fish rice is put in a basket, just like a pot of dry rice, which is fresh and original, moderately salty and often memorable, so it is called fish rice; Another view is that fish and rice are related to people's living customs. Miao people, also known as houseboats, are called "non-food eaters" in ancient books, that is, they live on seafood such as fish, shrimp and clams, instead of wheat and millet.
The most common is the fish rice of Bahrain [lang5 Wolf]. Baling fish (often written as Balang fish), officially named blue minnows in Chinese, is a low-cost economic fish. The length of barracuda for fish and rice is generally controlled between 15 ~ 20cm. Fish's intestines and stomach are not digested in the first half of the night, so fishmongers should choose the fish caught in the second half of the night. Bahrain fish rice is compact in structure, salty, plain in taste, fresh, sweet and delicious, and low in price. This is an easy-to-get home-cooked dish. It can be eaten as a meal or as a dish.
Puning soybean paste is a kind of sauce produced in Puning area, which is naturally fermented by steamed soybeans. The salty taste of salt, the umami taste of protein hydrolyzed into amino acids and the fragrance of soybean itself are isomorphic to form a complex and humble taste of soybean paste, which is good at adding flavor and refreshing, and is most suitable for assisting the pursuit of original food, such as boiled chicken and fish rice.
Fish rice is a delicious food-traditional fish rice is made of low-priced fish such as scaly fish and blue-and-white fish, which is high in histidine and easy to rot. I had to set up a stove on the fishing boat and put it for 3 or 5 days after cooking the fish. Nowadays, fish rice has become a unique cooking method.
2. Boiled dragon tongue with bean paste: When the sauce meets fresh fish,
When it comes to bean paste, it is associated with boiled agave with bean paste.
Tequila, also called dragon goblet, is a kind of flounder. China's earliest dictionary Erya recorded flounder for the first time: "There is flounder in the East, which is not better than it." The so-called "nothing is better than nothing" means that the flounder has severe strabismus and needs two stomachs to complement each other before swimming, which is natural.
Because the pronunciation of "tongue" and "food" in Cantonese is similar and unlucky, Guangfu people call "tongue" "skin", which is the origin of arowana.
Dragon tongue fish is a rare edible fish, with tender meat, fresh and sweet taste and more spineless meat. Its elegant sweetness, even the practice of pouring ginger and onion soy sauce after steaming, is too heavy; If boiled too lightly, the taste will be monotonous, and the fishy smell will be highlighted.
This is an excellent opportunity for soybean paste to appear, and its small amount of salt can not only cover up the unpleasant taste, but also show the umami taste; The unique fermented flavor (Maotai flavor) is integrated into the boiled soup, which enriches the level of umami flavor-this is a touching joint performance of Maotai flavor and fish freshness.
In fact, the method is very simple. Take a pot, add a small layer of water, put the fish in the pot, add shredded ginger to remove the fishy smell, scoop some bean paste, and add celery after cooking. Fish with meat close to agave, such as pomfret, sand tip, hairtail, etc. It is also suitable for cooking in bean paste.
3. Five bamboo shoots fish: I don't want to be made into salted fish without dreams.
Five bamboo shoots fish is called Mayou fish in Zhanjiang, or afternoon fish. Its meat is tender and plump, with high fat content and unique flavor. It is a high-grade edible fish on the table. Zhanjiang people will also use it to make salted fish.
Chaoshan people used the miscellaneous salty tribute dishes that sent porridge every day, and once again demonstrated their talent in eating this aspect through simple cooking. Tribute refers to the sugar tribute unique to Chaoshan, which is quite different from the tribute that Anhui was called "Xiangcai" by Premier Zhou. It is a kind of "miscellaneous salty" that mustard, sugar, salt and ginger are put into the jar for fermentation for one year. The taste is crisp, sweet and salty, and there is a faint Nanjiang aroma.
Tribute is similar to bean paste, which plays the role of seasoning and preservation. The difference is that the flavor of the tribute can be greasy and fishy, so that the soft and delicious side of the fish will not be covered by oil. Pickled plums can also achieve the same effect, so some restaurants also cook five bamboo shoots with pickled plums, but the taste is different. What kind of fish to cook depends on the preferences of diners.
4. Medium-cooked mackerel: rich in meat and delicious.
There is a saying in Chaoshan: "Good fish, bamboo pod fish, pomfret, good cabbage, cabbage? [ion6], good at playing Su six niang. " Kale? It is the flower moss of kale, which is fragrant and smooth and is regarded as the first dish by Chaoshan people. Su six niang is a classic of Chaozhou Opera. Bamboo pod fish and pomfret are regarded as the most delicious seafood by Chaoshan people.
There are generally two kinds of mackerel in Chaoshan, one is blue-spotted mackerel, which means the others are fake. Another common one is mackerel from Kangshi, and Chaoshan is also called "bamboo tube" and "earth".
Mackerel meat is thick with few thorns and high in fat. The high temperature makes the oil give full play to its fragrance. The common practice is to cut a half-inch thick circle, add a little salt and dry fry it. However, mackerel fiber is tight, and the meat quality is more elastic and chewy. If you don't pay attention, the fish will get old and become firewood. And rich in fish oil, then fried in oil, greasy.
Rare mackerel is a good choice. First, cut the onion into sections, slice the ginger, put it in a pot and stir-fry it with lard. Then put the mackerel half an inch thick into the pot, pour in the soy sauce water, half a centimeter deep, cover it, and medium heat. Soy sauce water can be mixed according to the ratio of soy sauce: water = 1: 1. When the fish turns slightly pale, it can turn over. At this time, the fish on the downward side should be caramel color. If the color is lighter, continue to cook, turn it over after it is completely colored until the fish is caramelization on both sides.
First, steam is used as the heat transfer medium, the temperature is lower than that of oil, which can better keep the fish fresh and tender, and at the same time cook evenly inside and outside. Secondly, the fragrance of ginger and onion is forced out by oil, dissolved in oil and sucked into fish with soy sauce water. In addition to its own flavor, fish also adds the spicy taste of ginger and onion and the salty taste of soy sauce.
Thirdly, after being heated and evaporated, the soy sauce water is concentrated with the collagen in the fish skin and the previous lard into a thick black and bright soup, which is extremely delicious. Deep-sea fish can't absorb the soy sauce in the pot, and the color is as white as jade. If the taste is not enough, you can use this concentrated soy sauce as dipping sauce.
5. Steamed pomfret by ancient method
"Good fish, bamboo pod fish and pomfret" generally refer to China pomfret and silver pomfret. The fishbone is soft, the fish is soft, the taste is sweet, delicious and convenient, and it is normal for people to like it since ancient times. Compendium of Materia Medica records: "Chang, beauty is also famous for its taste". Its tail is like a swallow's head, its bones are soft and its flesh is white, and its taste is better than other fish, which is the description of the ancients.
China pomfret, also known as fighting pomfret, has a thick body, and a large individual can reach five pounds. Fish is light and suitable for steaming, which is different from the common steamed fish with ginger and onion sauce, that is, Guangdong steamed fish, which is more complicated.
First, cut a knife diagonally at the neck, body and tail of the fish and put it in a plate. The bottom knife flower is stuffed into the spoon, and the top knife flower is stuffed into the sour plum, so that the fish can be steamed at the same time. Then spread shredded mushrooms, shredded sauerkraut, shredded ginger and fat. The most important thing is to spread tomato slices on the thin belly of the fish's back to keep out the water vapor and prevent the fish from getting too old. Finally, pour some bone soup and steam it for about 5 minutes.
Fat meat provides a smooth taste for tender fish; Sauerkraut shreds, tomatoes and sour plums have a complex sour taste, which enriches the taste, softens the fish and relieves boredom and appetizers. Mushroom shreds are rich in guanylic acid, which brings different sweetness to pomfret.
The ancient steaming of pomfret mainly uses several kinds of acid components skillfully, with acid highlighting sweetness, forming a style different from steaming Cantonese soy sauce. However, due to its complexity, it has been eliminated by Cantonese style and basically disappeared in major restaurants in Shantou.
To say that Chaoshan cuisine is light is actually the respect of Chaoshan people for the original flavor of ingredients. As the saying goes, "five flavors don't hide their truth", all seasonings, ingredients and cooking methods are to better express ingredients. In Chaoshan, every kind of fish has the most suitable cooking method, and even a certain cooking method has been invented for one kind of fish, which is quite a sense of Confucius' "not eating its sauce"-who can't help it?