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Impression Qionglai Grottoes
After Buddhism and Buddhist art were introduced to China along the Silk Road, they were first popularized in the North and the Central Plains, and exquisite Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes (clay sculptures) and caves such as Yungang and Longmen appeared, which reached their peak in the Tang Dynasty (7 13 to 766). After the Anshi Rebellion (755-763), the political and economic center of the country moved southward, and the influence and focus of Buddhist grottoes art also moved southward-the entire economic focus after the Song and Yuan Dynasties basically moved southward, which led to the germination of capitalism. Jinniu Road (1) is one of its paths, which led to the emergence and development of a large number of Buddhist grottoes in Minjiang River, Jialing River and other basins, and even continued into the Ming and Qing Dynasties, leaving Dazu, Anyue and other Song Dynasty stone carvings representing the artistic peak of China Grottoes. Qionglai, located at the crossroads of the Southern Silk Road, and Qiongzhou, which had jurisdiction over several counties at that time, were rich in salt, iron, wine and tea, developed in commercial economy and frequent in cultural exchanges, which directly promoted and supported the development and prosperity of Buddhist grottoes, resulting in the sixth batch of national key cultural relics protection units-Qionglai Grottoes: stalagmites.

? Zhi Temple in Qian Qinghua, Rong Yuan

I remember that when I was in primary school, the school organized a training picnic in Xiaobaishu (place name), only to know that there was a Thousand Buddha Rock (next to the ruins of Huazhi Temple) six or seven kilometers away from the city. Along the ravine, the stream gurgles and the bamboo forest is dense. At that time, a reservoir was being built there, which is today's Zhuxi Lake. You can also climb a steep stone ladder of 300-400 meters from Zhuxi at the foot of Huashi Mountain to the Thousand Buddha Rock. After Zhuxi Lake became a lake, the trees on the mountain became more and more lush, and the flying herons flew above the blue waves. Only by boat can you go to the Thousand Buddha Rock of Huazhi Temple, which is surrounded by water on three sides, to see its elegance.

Next to the Huazhi Temple Grottoes, there is a stone tablet named "Records of Newly Built Infinite Buddha Stone Carving in Huazhi Temple" (2), which describes the event that Ma Caifeng, a descendant of Ma Yuan and the owner of Zhangjing Temple (3) in Beijing, came here to make a statue. During the Zhenyuan period of the Tang Dynasty (Tang Dezong Shili Nianhao, 785-805), Ma Cai, a monk, went south to preach the Dharma with the will of the Tang Dynasty, and set up an altar at Baihe Temple (Genesis of Heshan by Wei Liaoweng) two kilometers west of Qiongzhou. His "front hill, back hill, or niche or room" in Huashi Mountain, his existing 13 stone sculptures in "Tang Zhenyuan", 33 small cliff statues and 5 square towers in Qianfo Rock, Huazhi Temple and the back hill of Baihe Mountain should also be built in the same year or soon. As for the rice-leaking cave carved in the southern half of Baihe Mountain in the fifth year of the Republic of China (also surrounded by stone carvings in the Tang Dynasty) and its legend, it should be closely related to the statue and legend of the rice-leaking mother-in-law in Feixian Pavilion Grottoes in Pujiang under the jurisdiction of Qiongzhou at that time. However, it is not clear why the monk Ma Cai, who set up an altar in Baihe Temple, carved a stone statue in Huashishan two or three kilometers away. Moreover, there are few historical materials or legends about the rise and fall of Huazhi Temple.

Huazhi Temple 1 Grottoes have a majestic (vertical) end, and its backlight (4) is decorated with gold and silver patterns. The winding auspicious clouds and gentle clothes set each other off. The two niches connected to the left of the shrine, 3,000 buddhas and more than 0,700 * * * 65,438+dead robbers, are about 25 cm high, all sitting naked on the lotus platform. In the middle of the two niches, there is a statue of Buddha, Bodhisattva, Heavenly King and Lux protruding from the wall, and the use of round knife technique enhances the three-dimensional sense of the whole niche. There is also an image of Xuanzang in the caisson (5) carved above the Thousand Buddha Cave. According to relevant information, it should be painted during maintenance after the Ming Dynasty. This also shows the continuity and variability of cliff sculpture art.

Its third niche is the Pure Land Change in the West (6). The front wall of the lower part of the inner niche is carved with vases and lotus branches and leaves, surrounded by house eaves, which are connected by pavilions and overpasses. The auspicious cloud above carved a "convex" platform, and a Buddha and two bodhisattvas were carved on the carved lotus base. After the Buddha, there are two bodhi trees with big backlit flame patterns, which are draped over the shoulders, and their hands are meditation and sealed, and they sit precariously on the top of Yang Lianping. Bodhisattvas lined the sides with garlands.

On the left side of the Thousand-Buddha Temple, there are some inscriptions written by poets in the Song Dynasty: "Chen Zhicun, chief of the county, Yu Wenbangyan, Gaiyuan (7) On the 18th of next spring, he ordered Sun Xiao, Zhu Ming, Du ... to rest here", which shows that this place has long been a place for officialdom literati to play. Lu You and Wen Tong also visited here, and Wei Liaoweng also chanted "I am surprised at first sight and love poetry with the scenery". On both sides of the No.2 niche, there are also vertical carvings of "Lucheng Fairy Island" and "Rock-opening Buddha Field". I don't know if it was done at the moment or later generations. But it seems that it really "foresees" the fact that Zhuxi has become a lake. The name of "Zhuxi" originated from Zhang Fang, a poet and prefect of Lin Qiongjun in Song Dynasty. The emerald rock of Huashishan is engraved with the word "Zhuxi" with a diameter of more than five feet. 1985, General Zhang Aiping came here and left "Zhuxi Lake" Mo Bao.

Fenglongshulang Pantuo Temple

I know Pantuo Temple is in the spring of junior high school 1979. Teachers Liang Xueru, Liu Huizhen, Liang Qiao and Chilam took us there for a spring outing and picnic-in the north of Helin Temple and Huazhi Temple, about two or three kilometers away. At that time, I was only amazed at the number of Buddha statues carved in Qionglai, but I didn't understand their exquisite and long history.

? Pantuo Temple's "Full Statue of Ancient Buddha" tablet records: "In the fifth year of Tang and Yuan Dynasties, monks carved buddhas because of the shape of rocks", that is, in 820, even the master of Baihe Temple presided over the excavation, so the statue should be built first. Kaiyuan Temple in Tang Dynasty was renamed Pantuo Temple when it was rebuilt in the 25th year of Hongwu in Ming Dynasty (1392). Qing Jiaqing's Records of Qiongzhou in Zhili contains: "Pantuo Temple is also an ancient temple, hence its name." "During the Wanli period, Yang Shen, a county magistrate, wrote the word" He Yong "on a stone, and his calligraphy was wonderful." There are six niches: cliff statue, hall, clay sculpture and painted murals.

Pantuo Temple 1 is carved with "One Buddha and Two Bodhisattvas". The statue of Amitabha is sitting on the lotus platform with a waist girding, sitting more than 3 meters high. The middle of the bun is decorated with pearls, which are draped over the shoulder robes and have a low neckline. Put your hands on your knees to form a "meditation seal", which is harmonious and peaceful. Behind it are flame patterns, flowers, lotus beads, backlight and headlights. There is a pattern of flower and algae wells on the top of the niche, and there are four carved doors in front of the abutment, each carving a piece of geisha music with a high bun and wide sleeves, sitting on the floor, one playing the flute, one playing the pipa, one playing the beat and one playing the flute. On the left and right walls of the main Buddha are carved Guanyin Bodhisattva and the Great Trend Bodhisattva, 2.8 meters high, crowned with jewels, wearing long skirts and fluttering silk. Guanyin holds a clean bottle and stands on the lotus seat in a slightly "S" shape, which is very vivid. On the left and right sides of the back niche wall of the main Buddha, there are small domes carved with the relief of Samantabhadra and Manjusri Bodhisattvas riding like lions, with peach-shaped bald heads and a crown of jewels. His carving techniques and lines are round and smooth, with obvious style in the middle Tang Dynasty, and there is a clue of "simplicity and elegance" in the transition to the late Tang Dynasty. Moreover, this practice of carving Manjusri Bodhisattva and Samantabhadra Bodhisattva threatened by Sakyamuni Buddha behind Amitabha Buddha also reflects the "secularization" tendency of Buddhism after the middle and late Tang Dynasty. It's just that the Buddha statues and bodhisattvas were remounted by secular believers in the 1980s and 1990s, which is very embarrassing.

In addition to the simple and elegant inscription of "Fifteen Years of Yuanhe", a square tower with a level of 13 is carved on the left and right sides, with a square seat covered with lotus flowers under the tower, a symbolic round arch carved on the front of the tower, and a sitting Buddha statue with a pointed arch carved in the middle niche, which is reminiscent of the stone tower of Ishidotera in the lower Southern Song Dynasty in Qionglai Tiantai Mountain.

The second niche at the left end of the cliff is a thousand Buddha niche, with a platform protruding from the cliff in the middle and a small niche engraved with the two great powers of one Buddha, two disciples, two bodhisattvas. There are nearly 500 Buddha statues in rows 15 and 16 on the left and right of the back wall, dressed in over-the-shoulder cassock, with bare chest and bare shoulders and peach-shaped backlight. Its shape and layout are basically the same as those of the Thousand Buddhas Hall in Huazhi Temple.

The pure land of the Western Heaven has become the No.3 niche, with a statue of Buddha and Bodhisattva carved on the main wall, followed by a three-story hall pavilion, a boat over the bridge, musicians and auspicious clouds fluttering, I wonder if it is heaven and earth.

In front of the grottoes (to the east), the Hall of the Great Hero, which was rebuilt in the Ming Dynasty, is a building with a single eaves and built on the mountain, which is not easy to preserve so far. There are clay sculptures of the Three Saints of the West in the temple, and Buddhist stories such as Hua Yan Jing Fifty-three Stories of Participating in Kindness, which were carefully written in the seventh year of Jingtai (1456) and the first year of Tianshun (1457) in the Ming Dynasty. The mural is about 80 square meters, and each part is bounded by mountains and rivers, trees, flowing clouds, houses and terraces, which are interrelated and independent. The picture structure is rigorous, the pen is rich and smooth, the characters are delicate, and the colors are bright and bright. It is a rare mural of the Ming Dynasty.

Pantuo Temple is a collection of cliff statues in Tang Dynasty, buildings and inscriptions in Ming Dynasty, murals and clay sculptures, which has high historical and cultural value.

The majestic and elegant stalagmite mountain

? Today's Qionglai County Records quoted Jiaqing's "The Ancestor Sacrifice in Qiongzhou, Zhili". "Stalagmite temple is four miles west of the city, and it is a seven Buddhist temples. Because of the solitary stone stand, it stands four feet around the mountain and is three feet high. Shaped like bamboo shoots, it was named "Sun Shi Cliff Statue", which is actually wrong. Hechang village in the west of the city belongs to the stalagmite temple of Guangfu Temple (there are seven Buddhist temples in the temple), which was built during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty. On a cliff shaped like a giant bamboo shoot in the southwest of its main hall, there is indeed a stone statue of Tang Dynasty (another stone Buddha of Ming Dynasty), but it is by no means a cliff statue and temple site of Shisun Mountain in Jinggou, Datong, which is located in the northwest of the city. The temple in those days was not called "Shisun Temple". Mr. Hu once made textual research in Miscellanies of Westinghouse: The Right and Wrong of Stalagmite Mountain and Stalagmite Temple. However, the former temple in Sun Shi may not be "Chorakuji Temple", but "Jiuding Temple". "Qionglai County Records Sita Bridge Crossing" recorded in the Republic of China: "There are many synonyms in Daxing Temple in ancient and modern times ... Ancient Changle Temple, Monk Temple in Hongzhi period of Ming Dynasty ... Old records: Jiuding Temple was built in the Ming Dynasty, 90 miles west of Qionglai. "As for the location of Chorakuji Temple, there is no record in the history books, but the location and distance of Jiuding Temple recorded in the history books are generally consistent with the location of Mount Sun Shi. In addition, people around Datong Town (i.e. Daxing Chang) have always called the jagged lianshan Jiuding Mountain, which is located in the area of Sun Shi Mountain. Therefore, the ancient temple in Sun Shi should be "Jiuding Temple", but unfortunately there is no more accurate historical record.

From the ancient city of Datong, from north to west, with winding green hills and winding mountain roads, Sun Shi Mountain Grottoes are located in the mountain range that slopes from northwest to southeast. Because the opposite peak stands abruptly, it looks like a bamboo shoot, hence the name Sun Shi. As early as the early 1980s, I knew that there was a Buddha statue in Sun Shi Mountain, but because it was located in a deep mountain, the traffic was inconvenient, and I was not able to visit it until 2006.

? Cliff statues in Sun Shi are obliquely arranged on the upper and lower floors according to the situation, with 33 niches and more than 700 statues. However, I don't know why someone will preside over the excavation. Only on the side of the No.29 niche, there is a puzzling text: "Two statues of Bodhi Sakyamuni on Sun Shi Mountain are inscribed ... on February 15th in the third year of Dali (768), earlier than Huazhi Temple and Pantuo Temple. Under its 32 niches, there is also an inscription "The custom of thinking about peace on September 9, three years of gratitude to Germany", which should be written by tourists who went to Germany for three years before Shu (92 1) or Song (965). His sculptures include bas-reliefs, high reliefs and semicircular sculptures, among which One Buddha and Two Bodhisattvas, Pure Land Change and Flying are the essence, and some sculptures are included in China Fine Arts Collection Sichuan Grottoes Volume.

The most attractive and shocking thing here is the statue of "One Buddha, Two Bodhisattvas, Two Disciples, Two Heavenly Kings and Two Luxes" in the 3 1 to 33 niches. The Buddha of Pilu Channa (the dharma body of Sakyamuni) sits on the lotus platform, with a green snail on his bun and a meditation seal on his hand. Kind and graceful, showing the weather of the Tang Dynasty. Ananda and Ye Jia are on both sides; Samantabhadra Bodhisattva rides a white elephant on the left, Manjusri Bodhisattva rides a green lion on the right, and under it, he lifts Lotus Tong Bixiao. Aric, about 4 meters long, was wearing armor, standing on a hag, her right hand rested on her hips, and her left hand supported the tower. Another heavenly king is majestic and brave, full of courage and awe, echoing the ferocious lux who is angry along the muscles of the niche. In the Tang Dynasty, the worship of the King of Heaven in Pishamen once flourished. There are temples in towers and barracks, and even their mighty images are on military flags.

? Statues of Guanyin Bodhisattva have appeared in many shrines, with graceful figure and charming face. In the form of expression, although there is also an "S" shape or graceful trend, there is a slight tilt posture change of the body. The gentle shawl wreath hangs from the left shoulder, crosses the left hip and crosses the legs, and naturally hangs around, showing a more vivid and smooth line shape. And "Tian Fei" has a high bun, a fluttering skirt, half-naked flying, and is light and moving. Its sculptor (10) also stood and sat with different postures, rich and different. It can be seen that the techniques and styles of Sun Shi Mountain Buddha statues, like those of Huazhi Temple and Pantuo Temple, are the inheritance and evolution of the prosperous Tang Dynasty, forming a genre-colored style.

The No.20 niche is the Vimalakīrti Sutra, with Manjusri Bodhisattva sitting on the lotus platform on the left wall and Vimalakīrti sitting on the right wall. The two of them looked at each other, asked questions and explained. The Buddhist disciple in the middle leaned forward slightly, as if holding his breath and listening, and the scene was vivid and lifelike. The rest is divided into upper, middle and lower layers, and related story scenes with scenes are engraved. There is a que-shaped tower in the middle of the main wall, a flying elephant running on the ridge, a flying arrival in the upturned corner of the hanging gate ... five officials in front of the gate are handing over gifts. What a rotating world this is, the pure land of Buddhism and earthly life are integrated together!

"The Change of Pure Land" is located in niches 4 and 6. Its sixth niche is a representative masterpiece: Amitabha Buddha, Guanyin Bodhisattva and the Great Trend Bodhisattva are sitting in the middle, and the Qibao Lotus Pond is full of gold, silver, agate and amber. Temples, pagodas, pavilions and pavilions are connected by cloisters, and people of all colors walk or spread their arms. The lower part of the boat is engraved with "Rowing Map": the stern is hidden in bridge opening, and the bow is high. Three boatmen either raised their heads and kicked their legs, bowed their heads or bowed their backs, and rowed across the river together. On the other hand, people sitting on the boat are immersed in all kinds of juggling on both sides of the strait, beating gongs and drums and doing somersaults in the air. They are very satisfied with themselves, both physically and mentally, and full of vitality. What is depicted here is the Western Heaven, but it reflects the social customs of the Tang Dynasty. In the fourth niche, the scenes of celestial life and secular life are also displayed. The most striking thing is that the naked woman in the center of the right wall, wearing only obscene pants, should be a prostitute with a slight figure. This is not only an indirect presentation of the world in the Tang Dynasty, but also a profound interpretation of Buddhist teachings: Buddhists pity all sentient beings in the world, and no matter what their life experiences, as long as they put down their obsession and truly convert to Buddhism, they are all Buddhist disciples! So even if the terrain is remote, you can get along well.

Today's Sun Shi, with accessible roads and green hills everywhere, is no longer a remote place, and people come here in an endless stream, all amazed at the pastoral scenery and the beauty of history and humanity.

Speaking of which, I can't help thinking of another anecdote: It was a summer afternoon, and it was raining heavily. The leader called to say that he had time to visit Sun Shi. I immediately asked Mr. Hu and Mr. He to accompany me. As soon as I arrived in Datong town, the rain dropped a lot. Although the road was rugged and muddy, it finally reached Shisun Mountain safely and the rain in the sky stopped. A group of people were watching and explaining to Mr. Hu. When they came to Pilu Buddha's niche, a ray of golden sunshine suddenly shone down from the sky full of dark clouds, just falling on the giant Buddha and his leaders. But in ten or twenty seconds, the sky is covered with dark clouds, and unexpected things are coming. This makes us all feel amazing and inexplicable!

Soon after, the leaders carefully studied the relevant suggestions and decided to carry out maintenance and reconstruction of stalagmite Mountain Road, which not only facilitated the production and life of the masses, but also facilitated the protection and display of cultural relics. The leader was transferred from Qionglai before the highway was completed, but he still missed the highway construction in Sun Shi Mountain and made a special phone call to ask about it. Speaking of the past, he felt a lot: it was really a rare opportunity and happiness to meet people with feelings, especially leaders with humanistic spirit!

I thought I remembered.

Note: (1) Jinniu Road: Also called Shi Niu Road, the name comes from the story of "Stone cow dung is golden, five cows lead the way". Jinniu Road is a section of road crossing Bashan to communicate with Qin and Shu, a continuation of the old road, and an inclined road to the south. During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, Guanzhong and Shu County were both called "Land of Abundance", and the route of people's communication between the two places was commonly known as "Shu Road" or "Qin-Shu plank road". Jinniu Road is an important part of Qin-Shu plank road and the main line of ancient Shu Road. Also known as Wuding Road, Jiange Road, Zhantan and South Station. (2) "Newly-built Infinite Buddha Stone Niche in Huazhi Temple": According to Sichuan Tongzhi, the newly-built Infinite Buddha Stone Niche in Huazhi Temple in Lin Qiong County, Qiongzhou County, Datang Province, and the existing Infinite Buddha Stone Niche in Huazhi Temple in Qiongxian County, Jiading County, Datang Province should be re-carved during the Hongwu period of the Ming Dynasty, because Qiongzhou was reduced to. (3) Zhang Jing Temple: "Tang Yao Hui" records: "Zhang Jing Temple, outside Tonghua Gate. In the second year of Dali (767), on July 19th, the chamberlain Yu Chaoen invited the queen to set up a temple, taking Chengdong Zhuang as the chapter. Because of the demolition of Han Shu's house, there is also Qujiang Baisi's house-watching and wind-watching building. " Often? "Guo Wai" contains: "Zhangjing Temple was built in the East Gate of Chang 'an in the first year of Dali. There are 4 130 rooms and 48 hospitals. "In the first month of the following year, Daizong personally went to the temple and visited thousands of monks and nuns. In July of the seventh year of Tang Zhenyuan (79 1), Dezong and his ministers sang in the temple. Dezong has the title of Zhangjing Temple on July 15th, and Quan Deyu has the title of Baiyan Master of Zhangjing Temple in Tang Dynasty. (4) Backlight: refers to the aperture or pattern behind Buddhist statues. Generally in the head and back of Buddha and Bodhisattva. Backlight includes head light and body light, also known as Buddha light, round light and light equality. Backlight is the embodiment of "white hair between the eyebrows" and "long light and one Zhang phase" in the "32 phases" of Buddha. Backlight means that the Buddha is everywhere, so it is a part of the Buddha's body and never appears alone. (5) Caisson: a unique way of indoor ceiling in ancient temples in China. Generally, it is made into a well shape protruding upwards, with a square, polygonal or circular concave surface, and decorated with various flowers, algae, wells, carvings and paintings. Its shape is like a concave well, and the well is decorated with algae, so it is called "algae well" (6) Pure land change: Buddhist painting name, also known as "Western Pure Land Change". Buddhists call it "pure land, because the five turbidity are not dyed", taking the world where the Buddha lives as pure land, which is symmetrical with the filthy land where all secular beings live. According to the three classics of Pure Land Sect-Infinite Life Sutra, View Infinite Life Sutra and Amitabha Sutra, the disguised paintings are called "Pure Land Change", including sculptures and paintings. Change is the "realization" of Buddhist classics, also called disguised form. Every "change" contains several "products", and each "product" is a complete and independent story, so as to transform words into images and deepen believers' intuitive understanding of Buddhism. (7) The State of Jing changed to Yuan: the year number of Song Dynasty, namely110/year. (8) Stone Pagoda of Shita Temple: Also known as the NiGu Mei Town Pagoda, it was built in the 9th year of the Southern Song Dynasty (1 173) and is a national key cultural relic protection unit. The tower is made of red sandstone, with 13 layers of dense eaves, and the outer profile is prismatic, with a total height of about17m. The first floor of the tower has a wide square eaves, especially the towering Sumi Mountain Tower with steps, which is rare in China, but the Shi Si Tower in Shexian County, Anhui Province can be compared with it. (9) Inclined mountain style: The roof style of China architecture looks like a hard hilltop (that is, the roof has a straight ridge and four vertical ridges) and a palace roof (that is, the roof with five ridges and four slopes has a "four exits"), which consists of a straight ridge and four vertical ridges or roofs. The taste is higher than other places in the mountain). The upper part is like a hard mountain top, and the two mountain faces are vertical, forming a triangular facade with the front and rear slopes. The lower part is inclined to the eaves, with a positive ridge, four vertical ridges and four ridges, commonly known as the Nine Ridges Hall. (10) Provider: refers to a devout believer who deeply believes in a certain religion, such as Buddhism, and preaches its teachings by providing funds, goods or services, making icons, digging grottoes, building religious sites, etc. It is also a statue of Buddhists who show their achievements.