Current location - Plastic Surgery and Aesthetics Network - Wedding planning company - The Development of Clothing in China
The Development of Clothing in China
In the pre-Qin period, one of the signs that distinguished Huaxia from other cultural groups was its external image. People say this is the antonym of "Khufu"

The concept of existence is "clothes", such as "The Yellow Emperor hangs down his clothes to rule the world" and "The feathers of ephemera are well dressed." This is also the origin of the name "Huaxia". Shang Shu Zheng Yi notes Huaxia: "When zhanghua is crowned, it is called China, and a big country is called summer." "Zuo Zhuan Ding Gong Ten Years" sparse cloud: "China has a big gift, so it is called summer; The beauty of the clothes is called China. " Even after the Tang Dynasty, people still used "Hanfu" to distinguish "Hufu", such as "Hanfu is depressed, bowing to grass" and "changing Hanfu into Hu, changing elegance into Zheng". During the pre-Qin and Han dynasties, people usually used "clothes" to refer to Hanfu. There are countless examples of this, such as "taking my clothes and Chu, taking our land and combining them." Therefore, China enjoys the reputation of "the country of ancient costumes".

Records related to the vocabulary of "Hanfu" were first found in Volume 96 of Hanshu "Biography of the Western Regions": "Later generations came to congratulate, and the Hanfu system returned to its country, ruled its palace, and made a big noise in Wei Zhou." The word "Han" here mainly refers to the Han Dynasty, which refers to the dress etiquette system of the Han Dynasty. It is worth mentioning that the Han Dynasty inherited the system of the Qin Dynasty, and costumes were developed on the basis of pre-Qin costumes. "Hanfu System" is also called "Hanfu System". During the Song, Yuan and Ming Dynasties, some foreign rulers explicitly called Hanfu "Chinese clothes". For example, "After Emperor Taizong of Liao entered Jin, both the emperor and the Nanban Han officials used Hanfu; The Empress Dowager and the courtiers in North Khitan used national clothes, and their Hanfu was a legacy of the Five Dynasties and the Jin Dynasty. " When the Yuan Dynasty revised Liao History, it even created a "Han Fu" specifically for Han Fu (Liao History Volume 56, Han Fu Chapter 25, Wei Zhenger).

In modern times, Hanfu is no longer a simple tool to distinguish between dignity and inferiority, but also has the function of marking the survival of the nation and the country. For example, Jin ordered "shaving and changing clothes", so it is better to die in Jin, so Li Miao and others will not die. Zhu Yuanzhang, the Ming emperor, drove the Mongols back to Mobei and settled in Nanjing, and immediately ordered Yi Fu. The same is true of Renzi, a letter to the Tang Dynasty. The first thing for Qing soldiers to enter the customs is to "shave their heads and change clothes", which is aimed at "binding hair, tassels and crowns"; The goal of "Yi Fu" is "cross-collared right-handed shirts and big sleeves". The Ming Dynasty was also a unified multi-ethnic country. The rulers of the Qing dynasty realized the great difference between the clothing of the Han people and that of the Manchu people. For example, in the third biography of King Keqin County by Prince Daishan in the Qing Dynasty, he wrote: "We decided to take Jinzhou and ordered Baylor troops to lead 4,000 troops. Yi Hanfu and Dashou joined forces to attack Jinzhou that night." Another example is the Seventh Biography of Loyalty and Righteousness in Draft of the History of the Qing Dynasty (Volume 493 Biography 28), in which Song Song Hua said, "The cities in Huinan and Beilu rebelled and incited changes. On August 29th, Hanfu of Hami returned to the village with bandits such as Ma and Ma Huan, and Beausire and Shangshu of the Ministry of Housing led Ding back to fight, beheaded the omen, destroyed the party and rewarded the yellow reins. " This is why "Hanfu" is used to refer to "Han clothing" instead of "Zhuang Ming".

"Hanfu" is a filter word of political oppression in Qing Dynasty, which belongs to the political problem of literary inquisition. Textual research hall experience miscellaneous notes: "merit is forbidden, square towel (a hat of Hanfu) is forbidden all over the world." Those who don't have a flat-topped hat wear a square scarf when they live in private, and the second son of Qin Chuan peeks at the public, that is, dozens of sticks, and the topic is sparse.

From the semiotic point of view, the rulers of the Qing Dynasty obliterated the signifier of Hanfu by prohibiting it. The disappearance of the formal level eventually leads to the loss of the meaning level. Linguistically, "Hanfu" has its own language form but no semantics, and words such as "dress", "Tang suit" and "Hanfu" have lost their substantive support and become pseudo-concepts. It was not until after the Revolution of 1911 that it broke through the forbidden zone of political compulsion and became a cultural issue. Mr. Zhang Taiyan, a master of Chinese studies, wrote in a letter to Jia Yin on May 23 (in the third year of the Republic of China, 19 14): "Today, I sent old clothes as a souvenir ... Si's clothes were made in Japan, and my former colleagues and I advocated righteousness and asked Japanese sewing people to do them. Japanese clothes have compasses and labels marked' Han'. It has been ten years now. "

To sum up, "Hanfu" has both the general attributes of "clothing" and the outstanding attributes of "nation". Therefore, to be exact, "Hanfu" belongs to the concept of "national costume", and its full name is China traditional costume, which is one of hundreds of national costumes in the world. From the course of its appearance, Hanfu, clothes, Tang clothes (Tang clothes) and their derivatives are all old names of "Hanfu".