? During the Cultural Revolution, the market day in Lianshanchang Town was every Sunday. After the reform and opening up, the government set the market day as a double day every month. The market day in Lianshanchang Town is really crowded and lively. Villagers from dozens of kilometers away from Fiona Fang poured into Lianshanchang Town, most of whom were villagers selling their own local products.
? What impressed me the most was that when I was a child, I came out from Jintang and Zhongjiang Mountain to sell firewood and grass. Compared with wheat straw and rice straw, mountain grass has better sound insulation and rain protection effects. At that time, almost every household still lived in thatched cottages, and only a few households with slightly better economic conditions lived in Xiaoqing tile houses with red brick walls. There is a great demand for wood in thatched cottages and brick houses, while wood and grass are everywhere in the mountains. In the era of large collective, the production team and the higher government did not effectively protect and manage the wild vegetation on the mountain, so the local villagers only need to spend a little effort and no money. They can take a trip up the mountain with sickles and axes, pick up a lot of Danshan grass or carry one or two pieces of wood on their shoulders, and sell them soon after they are sent to the market town.
? Of course, the most famous food in Lianshanchang Town belongs to Lianshan Daimuer Sichuan style pork. If you haven't tasted it, at least you must have heard of it. Damur Sichuan style pork is very famous, mainly because customers have a good reputation and many factors promote each other. Its practice is very simple, and its fame is only accidental.
? It is said that in the era of educated youth going to the countryside, several young people from the city who came to support the rural construction of Lianshan gathered at Daimuer's house to play cards in the middle of the night, and everyone felt particularly hungry at midnight. As it happens, there is a cooked pig's ass at Daimuer's house. Damur immediately arranged for his wife to cut the cooked meat as quickly as possible, then poured it into the pot and put it back in the pot. Because Moore had no vegetables and condiments at home, he urged his wife to get meat as soon as possible. Moore's wife cut the meat very thin, but very wide, and each piece of meat was cut as wide as her palm. When the pot was almost cooked, she poured a little lobster sauce into the pot and stirred it with the meat a few times before cooking. Several young people were full of praise, saying that they had never eaten such delicious meat. The scene of eating Sichuan style stew pork this night is always rooted in the hearts of Mr. and Mrs. De Moore and several young people.
? Later, after the reform and opening up, Mr. and Mrs. Damur opened a small restaurant. Because I miss the scene of playing cards and eating Sichuan-style pork that night many years ago, the couple specially introduced "Lianshan Daimurchuan-style pork" to customers. After years of renewal and improvement, the cooked pork of Damur is more refined in material selection and slightly complicated in technology. In the process of cooking, in addition to douchi, a proper amount of ginger, douban, sweet noodle sauce, chicken essence, sesame seeds and pepper particles are added. With the increasing popularity of Sichuan-style pork, the business is booming and the scale of restaurants is growing. At present, the main varieties of cooked pork in Daimuer's family are green pepper, garlic sprout, celery and ginger. It is also famous for its generosity, fat but not greasy. Many places in China have restaurants that fake or imitate the Sichuan-style pork of Daimuer, but the meat quality, cooking time, taste and color of Sichuan-style pork produced by those restaurants are never comparable to the authentic Sichuan-style pork of Lianshan Daimuer.
? In fact, there is another traditional food in Lianshan Town that is unheard of by everyone, and it is older and more popular with local people, that is Lianshan Circle. Listen to my father once said, lianshan street circle, before liberation, business is particularly prosperous. Compared with other restaurants, doughnut noodles are relatively low in price, close to civilian life and more easily accepted by ordinary people. According to my father, before liberation, the old noodle restaurant in Lianshan Town was full every day, and several shopkeepers shuttled back and forth like a race, shouting incessantly.
? Compared with pasta from other places in China, the main difference between Lianshan doughnut noodles is that the production technology, taste and taste are completely different. The way to circle the dough is to knead the flour with the dough master first, and then pull out a small piece of flour on the big dough by hand, one or two, two, three ... The accuracy of the weight depends on the master's hands. The doughnut-shaped noodles are all rolled up and put into the pot. According to customers' preferences, customers order one or two, two or three noodles. The noodle maker asks the customer whether he likes to eat wider or thinner, and then he will immediately take one or two or three pieces of flour, roll it into a round fine dough on the chopping board, roll it three or two times, and then cut the dough into noodles with a sharp knife according to the width and fineness required by the customer.
? The noodles can be served by tumbling in the boiling water pot for a few times. Be sure to pour one or two spoonfuls of cold water into the pot before taking it out (this is an important process of rolling noodles in the mountains), and add local specialty edible oil pepper, sesame oil, lard, pepper noodles, soy sauce and vinegar to the noodles after taking it out. Sometimes seasonal vegetables, such as bean sprouts, spinach and pea tips, are added, and different vegetables are added with the change of seasons. There are many kinds of SAO seeds, such as beef, pork intestines, braised pork, ribs, kelp, snow-capped mountains and soybeans. Of course, some customers don't eat spicy food, just order clear soup noodles. Clear soup doughnut means no cooked oil, no Chili noodles and no pepper noodles. The biggest feature of lianshanquan is its chewiness. In the process of chewing, the original local flavor is refreshing and memorable.
? There are many businessmen who want to spread the traditional food of lianshan comprehensive to other places. As far as I know, in Guanghan, Deyang, Zhongjiang, Jintang and Mianyang, which are closest to Lianshan Town, people have opened such noodle restaurants one after another, but they all opened vigorously and closed quietly. The main reason is water quality. Lianshanchang town is very low in terrain. Every family in my hometown has that kind of simple steel pipe pressure well, and the groundwater level is below the surface 1 ~ 2m, which will not exceed 2m. It is very convenient to drill wells to get water. The groundwater in Lianshan contains a lot of calcium. No matter whether it is cooked in an iron pot or a kettle, a thick layer of calcified solids will be left at the bottom of the water after it is boiled. It is the noodles cooked with this water quality that are soaked in cold water before they are cooked, which just creates the unique chewiness of Lianshan Circle. In addition, climate change, soil and water pollution, and abnormal varieties of vegetable seeds, peppers, peppers and chopped green onion grown on the land no longer have the taste of decades ago. Therefore, except for Lianshan, this kind of circle can never be carried forward elsewhere.
? At present, the business of several noodle restaurants in Lianshan Town is just as hot. All noodle restaurants in the town are only sold in the morning and noon every day. After noon 1, you can hardly eat lianshan noodles, and you can only wait until the next day if you want to eat them. I often take my family back to my hometown to taste the taste of my childhood hometown. Now, except for the shape of noodles, it no longer has the shape of traditional doughnuts. Its color, fragrance and taste are the same as when I was a child, and it has not changed at all.
? I have tasted many famous noodles in many places in China, including the hollow noodles in Zhongjiang, Vu Thang, the hollow noodles in Wenjiang, Regan Noodles, the noodles in Zhajiang, Lamian Noodles, Daoxiao, Shaanxi and Shaanxi. Maybe it's the innate taste of Sichuanese. Eating noodles from other places always feels inferior to the taste of home.
? It's been 30 years since I left my hometown in a blink of an eye, but the endless golden rape blossoms, green wheat ears, rows of sugarcane forests on the river beach, Sichuan-style pork, fried noodles, cold-mixed three-silk noodles, poached eggs, glass steamed dumplings, spicy spring rolls ... these childhood memories have been lingering in my mind, flashing in my memory, and will not disappear for a long time.
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