Clothing materials and required cloth size of Hanfu.

Clothing is composed of three elements: style, color and material. Among them, material is the most basic element. Clothing materials refer to all the materials that make up clothing, which can be divided into clothing fabrics and clothing accessories. Let me take you to know the clothing materials and fabric sizes that Hanfu needs.

The style of Hanfu has not changed much, and the choice of fabric plays a vital role in the style and temperament of clothing. When choosing fabrics, it is necessary to make clear the season and style required by Hanfu, and the wearer should also consider the collocation of fabrics in different parts (such as the collocation of body, collar and belt).

Natural fiber fabric is the best material for making Hanfu, with exquisite appearance and comfortable wearing. Etiquette clothing with higher specifications can better reflect the sense of quality of high-grade natural fabric clothing. Chemical fiber blended fabric is close to natural fiber in appearance, with various colors, good overall appearance and low price, and can sometimes be used to replace natural fabric. Fabric wholesale market is the best way to buy fabrics, with many varieties and cheap prices.

First, common clothing fabrics

Silk products (brocade, silk, yarn, spinning): it is a high-grade variety in textiles. Mainly refers to the fabric with mulberry silk, tussah silk, rayon and synthetic fiber filaments as the main raw materials. Silk is a national treasure traditional fabric, which has been used in China for thousands of years. This kind of natural fiber from silkworm babies is expensive, and it belongs to high-grade fabrics regardless of ancient and modern times. There are many kinds of silk fabrics with great differences in appearance and excellent expressive force. It is characterized by good hygroscopicity and breathability, and is comfortable to wear; Not easy to generate static electricity; More resistant to alkali and acid, we must avoid acidic substances such as disinfectants; Not resistant to strong light and exposure; In addition, it also has the advantages of lightness, softness, smoothness, elegance, splendor and comfort. The disadvantage is that it is difficult to master and manage when making.

Nursing care of silk fabric

(1) Dry cleaning is the best washing.

(2) Washing needs to be washed gently by hand in cold water with special detergent for silk cotton. Hang up the clothes to dry after washing them. Don't twist or expose yourself to the sun.

(3) It is forbidden to contact with acidic substances, otherwise it will corrode and destroy silk fabrics.

Hemp fabric: Hemp fabric mainly includes flax and ramie. Pure hemp fabrics woven from hemp fibers and fabrics blended or interwoven with hemp and other fibers are collectively called hemp fabrics, which can be divided into pure spinning and blended fabrics. Hemp fabric is also characterized by solid texture, smooth and crisp appearance, smooth hand feeling, good drape, rough and crisp, cool and comfortable, good hygroscopicity, but easy to wrinkle; Bright color, not easy to fade, not easy to be damp and moldy, not sensitive to acid-base reaction, high ironing temperature. Fine linen fabric is suitable for medium-sized clothes and summer skirts. Thick linen fabric is suitable for autumn and winter coats, and its temperament is biased towards men's wear. Hemp and kudzu vine are the earliest fabrics used in Han costumes in history, so people also call them "cloth clothes". Although the price of linen fabric is low, it looks noble and comfortable to wear, and it is an excellent Hanfu fabric.

Nursing care of hemp injection fabric

(1) The shrinkage rate of linen fabric is about 7%, so the fabric you buy back needs to be soaked in water, and then sewn after pre-shrinkage, so as not to cause clothes to be unsuitable.

(2) Apply neutral soap or neutral lotion when washing. Hemp fabric is easy to wrinkle, so it needs to be ironed at high temperature after washing, and it is best to hang it for preservation.

Cotton fabric: cotton was introduced from abroad at the end of Song Dynasty and began to be used. Refers to the fabric woven from cotton yarn or cotton and cotton-type chemical fiber blended yarn. It can be divided into two categories: pure cotton products and cotton blending. The appearance and texture of cotton are more affinity, not as stiff and noble as hemp fabric, but it has good hygroscopicity, breathability and warmth retention, soft and close-fitting, bright color, strong alkali resistance, heat resistance, moth resistance and inelastic. Disadvantages are large shrinkage, poor acid resistance, easy folding, easy to mold, and can not be exposed to the sun for a long time. Plain cotton fabric is light and comfortable, suitable for underwear and other underwear, but also suitable for home leisure coat. Cotton satin, woven from satin, has a soft and heavy luster and a crisp cloth surface. Simple but dignified than silk satin, suitable for making dresses and wearing clothes.

In addition, cotton and linen blended fabrics are common in the market, which combine the advantages of cotton and linen: close-fitting, comfortable, good warmth retention, and more stiff than cotton, and can replace cotton or linen to make underwear coats.

Nursing care of cotton fabric

(1) The shrinkage of cotton fabric is 5%-7%, so it needs to be soaked in water before sewing.

(2) Washing method: Wash with soap, washing powder and neutral detergent. Clothes of different colors should be washed separately to avoid dyeing.

(3) Cotton fabrics are prone to mildew and should be thoroughly dried before collection.

Wool fabric: a fabric mainly made of wool, rabbit hair, camel hair and wool-type chemical fiber, generally made of wool. It is a high-grade clothing fabric all year round, which is noble and elegant, drape well, warm and breathable, with the advantages of good elasticity, wrinkle resistance, stiffness, wear resistance, strong warmth retention, comfort and beauty, pure color and so on, and is deeply loved by consumers. Camphor should be used to prevent moth-eaten during storage.

Nursing care of wool injection fabric

(1) Dry cleaning is the best. If you need to wash, gently wash with your hands in warm water of about 30 degrees. Special silk wool detergent or neutral detergent should be used. After washing, naturally lay flat to dry, avoiding direct sunlight.

(2) When ironing, the temperature should be moderate (about 140 degrees), and the clothes should be padded with interlining before ironing. Wool-like fabrics can generally be washed.

Pure chemical fiber fabric: chemical fiber fabric has high fastness, good elasticity, good stiffness, wear resistance and washability, and is easy to store and collect, and is deeply loved by people. Pure chemical fiber fabric

Other clothing fabrics

(1). Knitted garment fabric: It is made of one or several yarns that are continuously bent into loops along the weft or warp direction and nested with each other.

(2) Fur: English pelliccia, leather with fur, generally used for winter boots, shoe lining or shoe mouth decoration.

(3) Leather: all kinds of tanned animal skins. The purpose of tanning is to prevent the skin from getting worse. The skins of some small animals, reptiles, fish and birds are called skins in English, but in Italy or other countries, "Pelle" and its consent words are often used to represent this kind of leather.

(4) New fabrics and special fabrics: batik, tie-dyeing, space cotton, etc.

Second, the difference between the front and back of the fabric

(1), in general, the patterns and colors on the front of fabrics are clearer and more beautiful than those on the back.

(2) The front patterns of fabrics and fabrics with striped appearance must be clear and pleasing to the eye.

(3), convex strip and concave-convex fabric, the front is tight and delicate, with strip or pattern convex lines; The reverse side is rough and the floating line is long.

(4) Fuzzing fabric: single-sided fuzzing fabric with the fuzzing surface as the front. For fabrics with double fuzz, the smooth and tidy fuzz side is the front of the fabric.

(5) Observe the edge of the fabric, and the smooth and tidy side of the edge is the front of the fabric.

(6) For double-layer and multi-layer fabrics, if the warp and weft densities of the front and back are different, the front density will be larger or the front material will be better.

(7) Leno fabric: the side with clear texture and protruding warp is the front.

(8) Towel fabric: the side with high terry density is the front.

(9) Printed cloth: the face with clear patterns and bright colors is the front.

(10), whole fabric: except for exported products, all instructions (trademarks) affixed with the factory inspection seal are generally reverse. There are obvious differences between the front and back of most fabrics, but there are also many fabrics whose front and back are very similar and both sides can be used, so it is not necessary to distinguish between the front and back of this kind of fabrics.

Third, the size of the cloth needed to make Hanfu.

Understand some meanings of Hanfu first, and then calculate the fabric production needed. There is a clear record about deep clothing in the Book of Rites, but some other styles must meet the requirements of the standard.

"Book of Rites Deep Clothing": Ancient people wore deep clothing, with a set of rules, rules, ropes, rights and balance outside. Short without skin, long without soil. Keep sewing and hem. It needs to be sewn halfway. If you compete, you can move your elbow. The length of the dress is as bad as the elbow. Take it, don't be bored, don't be bored, boneless.

System: Ten has two pictures, so ten should have two months. The circle should conform to the rules, the bend should conform to the square, the negative rope and ankle should be straight and the bottom should be balanced. Therefore, those who follow the rules are satisfied with little effort; Those who hold the rope, those who hold the edge, are just in their righteousness. Therefore, "Yi" said: Kun's move on June 22nd was straight ahead of the border. Harmony, peace of mind. The five laws have been applied, and the saints have taken them. Therefore, rules and moments are selfless, the rope is straight and the balance is flat, so Wang Gui comes first. So it can be used to write, to practice martial arts, to repel each other, to run the army, and to spend money on clothes. There are parents and parents, and the clothes are pure. With parents, clothes are pure green. Like an arrogant person, his clothes are pure and simple. Pure loading, margins, pure edges, and the width of each inch and a half.

Pant-refers to skirts. Hanfu skirts are right-handed and have a pair of skirts.

Fringe-the front of a garment, usually divided into straight and curved.

Sleeves are wide and narrow, and the idiom "Hand in hand to form a shadow" is a description of wide sleeves.

Collar-the part of a garment around the neck, including a cross collar, a round neck and a flat collar.

Edge-the edge of the collar, skirt and hem.

I) Standards required for cloth:

For fabrics with a width of 1.2 to 1.8m, the following standards are provided online for people with average figure (the width is more than 2.5m and halved). Please refer to your figure to make a decision. It is recommended that friends who are not very thin add half a meter to one meter of each cloth.

Ingredients of straight purlin deep coat: 2 times the upper body length +2 times the lower body length+1 times the sleeve width.

Curved clothes: 2 times the upper body length+2 ~ 4 times the lower body length (according to the number of laps)+1 times the sleeve.

Width: 2 times the upper body length+1 times the sleeve width (this upper body length is longer than that made of dark clothes, and is similar to western-style shirts)

Skirt: twice the length of the lower body

1.5m fabric

1. skirt (upper hem): 2m above the collar, 5m above the lapel, and 2m below the skirt.

2. Silk batch: 1m (1.5 wide) does not mop the floor.

3. Rolling clothes: 6m, (width 2.5m, about 3m and a half) hem (including belt): 2.5m..

4. Straight purlin: 3.6m, skirt (including belt): 2m.

5. High waist skirt: upper skirt: 4.5m (2m wide), skirt: 2.5m (2m wide) 3m (1.5m wide).

6, winding clothes:

Height1.6m. The garment is 1.4m long and 75mm wide. (The size is middle heel shoes, and the length of flat shoes is shortened by 5 cm. )

If the hands are exposed, the clothing width is 1.35 m and the side width is 75mm；; If you don't want to show your hands, increase the width to 1.5 meters.

The bust is two feet six inches; Waist two feet three inches; Take not less than five and a half inches (shoulder area).

The cuff size is not less than 20 cm, and the size is not limited.

The hem (girth) should not be less than 1.4m 4, otherwise you may not be able to open your legs.

Second, the width and length parameters of some ancient dynasties.

1, width parameter

Dynasty-width-equivalent to city ruler-equivalent to centimeter-refer to short article.

Western Zhou Dynasty-2.2-1.3150-43.83-Hanshu.

Han -2.2- 1.5247-50.82- Hanshu.

Tang-1.8-1.6811-56.03-.

Song-2.0-1.8450-61.49-

Ming-2.0 ~1.8-1.8679-62.26-Ming Meeting Point

2. Horse length parameters

Dynasty-length of horse-equivalent to city ruler-equivalent to centimeter-reference supply

Western Zhou Dynasty -40-23.92-797.25- Hanshu.

Han -40-27.74-9 15.58- Hanshu.

Tang-40-37.3574-1245.12-New Tang Book.

Song -40-36.9009- 1229.90-.

Ming dynasty -35 ~ 32-32.68- 1089.22- Ming code.

The following are archaeological references, based on rulers (teeth, bamboo, wood, copper, bone, etc. ) Unearthed in various places.

However, due to the fact that the ancient survey can't be as accurate as we are today, and the problem that the unearthed ancient ruler is damaged, the data of the same dynasty may fluctuate in a small range, and only one hand will be unearthed in some periods, so there will be a certain number. But this figure can only represent a reference range of this era, not an absolute number. In addition to the tailor's ruler, there were also special rulers in ancient times, such as building ruler, astronomical ruler and adjusting ruler. The length of these rulers does not agree with the tailor's ruler. Most of the references in this table are cutting rulers or ordinary rulers close to the length of cutting rulers. Here is a special explanation.

3, ancient and modern scale conversion

Dynasty-cm.

Shang-15.78 ~ 15.80

Warring States Period -23.438+00

Western Han dynasty -23. 10 ~ 23.60

New -23.03

Eastern Han Dynasty-22.95 ~ 23.75

Three Kingdoms (Wei) -23.80

Three Kingdoms (Wu) -23.50 ~ 24.20

Western Jin Dynasty -24.30 ~ 24.50

Liu Song -25.00 ~ 25.20

Tang -29 438+0 ~ 3438+0.20