The fabrics of cheongsam generally include brocade, brocade, electrospinning, hangluo, silk, hemp, tussah silk, spun silk, mulberry silk, castor silk, Xiangyun yarn, silk, antique satin, crepe satin, georgette yarn and jade satin. The following is the classification knowledge of cheongsam fabrics I brought to you, hoping to help you!
Cheongsam fabric brocade
One of the traditional silk weaving varieties in China. Brocade was developed on the basis of China Jiangnan Brocade at the end of 19. It takes satin as the ground and more than three kinds of colored yarns as weft yarns, that is, a group of weft triple weave fabrics interwoven by three groups of weft yarns. Weave eight warp and satin patterns with jacquard machine. Modern brocade can be divided into nine kinds according to raw materials: silk brocade, rayon brocade, interwoven brocade and gold and silver brocade. Exquisite patterns, gorgeous colors, thick texture and smooth and shiny surface are the representative varieties of China silk.
Brocade fabric is smooth, heavy and vertical. Bright and gorgeous colors, with auspicious and rich symbols of beautiful words and patterns, are very noble. Ordinary ancient people wear clothes that are either rich or expensive, which is also a symbol of status and status. Because the process is complex and labor-consuming, the price of the fabric itself is very expensive. So it usually only appears at wedding ceremonies. Brocade is made of gold thread, and silver thread is better. Among them, the brocade in Nanjing has been called a tribute since ancient times, and it is also the best in brocade! And has been included in the national intangible cultural heritage list.
Cheongsam fabric-electrospinning
Electrospinning is a silk-like fabric woven from raw mulberry silk and woven in plain weave. It is named after the use of factory silk and electric silk loom instead of soil silk and wood machine weaving. There are many kinds of electrospinning, which can be divided into silk electrospinning, viscose electrospinning and silk-viscose interwoven electrospinning according to different fabric materials. According to the weight of fabric per square meter, there are heavy (above 40g/m2), medium and light (below 20g/m2). According to different dyeing and finishing processes, there are whitening, whitening, dyeing and printing. Electrospinning products are often named after the ground, such as Hangfang (produced in Hangzhou). Shaofang in Shaoxing (Shanghai) and Hufang (produced in Huzhou).
Electrospinning materials are compact and clean, soft to the touch, soft in luster and smooth and comfortable to wear. The heavy ones are mainly used as summer shirts, skirts and children's clothing fabrics; Medium size can be used as clothing lining; Light pounds can be used as petticoats, headscarves and so on. This is an advanced fabric.
Cheongsam fabric-Hangluo
About "Luo", there is a passage in Ci Hai, which is the name of silk category. Woven from twisted yarn and nylon, it is light and smooth. It seems that the pixel silk has regular horizontal or vertical rows of holes twisted by weft yarns, with beautiful patterns and good air permeability. For example, hang Luo and so on. Here, "Xing Luo" is especially mentioned as the representative, which shows that in the Luo family, "Xing Luo" is an outstanding leader. There is also a saying that Hangluo, Suzhou Satin and Yunjin are listed as the three famous silk products in southeast China, which shows the status of Hangluo.
Because Luo is a relatively breathable silk fabric, it is often used to make underwear, mosquito nets, tents, culottes and so on. We often see expressions similar to Luo skirts in ancient books, referring to articles made of Luo.
Cheongsam fabric-silk
Silk generally refers to silk, including mulberry silk, tussah silk, castor silk and cassava silk. Silk is soft in luster, soft to the touch and delicate in texture. When rubbing together, it can make a special sound, commonly known as "silk sound" or "silk sound". Loosen it when you hold it with your hand, and the wrinkles are few and not obvious. Silk products have the same dry and wet elasticity.
Cheongsam fabric-tussah silk
Soft and elastic. The heat resistance is good, sericin is attached to the periphery of silk fibroin layer by layer, and the strength begins to weaken when the temperature reaches 140℃. The moisture resistance is also strong, accounting for about 85%; Sericin is light brown, and its strength can be increased by 4% under wet conditions. Insulation, strength, ductility, embrittlement resistance, acid and alkali resistance are better than mulberry silk. But the shrinkage rate of fabric is large. Raw silk is not easy to dye. Tussah silk textile products, with strong rigidity, strong acid and alkali resistance, natural color, thick fiber and good warmth retention, are the first choice for silk quilts and carpets. Some manufacturers will wash with white alkali, but the actual chemical residue is very low and harmless to people.
Different from mulberry silk
From the price point of view, silkworms need artificial stocking, which takes up a lot of manpower, and in the south, it is more expensive to make yarn and clothing with silk quilts. Tussah is wild, the main producing area is in the north, and the textile industry in the north is underdeveloped, so the consumption is small and the price is naturally low. Both of them have their own advantages, and they are animal proteins close to human skin proteins. All have the advantages of good air permeability, ultraviolet protection and good hygroscopicity, so silk products are noble textile commodities. The price is naturally expensive.
Cheongsam fabric-Xiangyun yarn
Xiangyun yarn feels cool and soft, and has the characteristics of waterproof, sun protection, good hand washing fastness, easy washing, easy drying and durability. It's a summer dress fabric that I have used with the South for thousands of years and exported to Southeast Asian countries.
Cheongsam fabric-antique satin
It is one of the varieties derived from brocade. One of the specialties of Hangzhou. It is a woven jacquard fabric woven by interweaving silk warp yarns and bright rayon weft yarns. The theme is scenery, pavilions, pavilions, pavilions, etc. Therefore, it is named after its quaint antique color. It is a set of weft triple weave fabric interwoven by three sets of weft yarns. A, B and warp yarns are woven into eight warp satin grounds. It is a representative variety of China silk. Because of its elasticity, stiffness and softness, it is an ideal fabric for women to make satin for western-style pajamas and silk for decoration.
Qipao etiquette knowledge
When wearing cheongsam, you should pay attention to:
1, the fabric and color of cheongsam should be coordinated with the occasion of dressing. Ordinary cotton cloth and silk brocade make the same style of cheongsam, and the styles will be completely different: one is simple and elegant, the other is gorgeous and noble. When buying cheongsam, you must consider the occasion of wearing it and choose the fabric and color of the corresponding style. The neckline of cheongsam is tightly closed. When buying short-sleeved sleeveless cheongsam in hot weather, it is best to choose comfortable fabrics that absorb sweat and breathe freely.
When choosing cheongsam, you should pay attention to the coordination between the style of cheongsam and your identity. Avant-garde sleeveless or bare-chested cheongsam, as well as ultra-short cheongsam with fur piping and boots, will be particularly outstanding for stars, but it is not suitable for conservative industry workers to wear every day.
3. The neck circumference, neck height, shoulder width, chest circumference, waist circumference and hip circumference of cheongsam should fit. Anything too tight or too loose will greatly reduce the aesthetic feeling and make it uncomfortable to wear.
4. Check all buttons before wearing. If there are buttons with loose stitches, they must be reinforced again before wearing to ensure that the buttons will not fall off when wearing.
5. The overall feeling of the style of cheongsam is "solemnity and sexiness in rigor". If you release the button, you will immediately feel "dust". Therefore, when a lady wears a cheongsam, all buttons of the cheongsam must be buckled no matter what the weather is like. Any unbuttoned button will leave an indelible "frivolous" impression on others.
6. Ankle-high slit cheongsam and ankle-high western-style evening dress have the same effect. Therefore, only in formal dinners or performances, or in hotels, guesthouses and other occasions where specific Chinese work clothes are needed, women can wear high-slit cheongsam above the middle thigh. The slit of the cheongsam should not be higher than the upper edge of the knee 10 cm during daily work or leisure.
7. It's best to wear pantyhose in cheongsam, so don't worry about socks opening. However, it should be noted that the fabric of cheongsam must be selected to be non-static with stockings.
8. The style of shoes should match the style of cheongsam.
9. Don't expose your underwear. Underwear matching cheongsam should also be carefully selected in style and color, suitable and comfortable, and the outline of underwear should be seamless.
10, when wearing cheongsam, pay special attention to maintaining good manners. Because the shape of cheongsam is very close to the natural curve of women, the indecent standing and sitting posture will be fully displayed in front of everyone.
Maintenance method of cheongsam
A, clothes washing method:
Before cleaning, we must consider the nature and requirements of the clothes to be washed and choose the type of detergent reasonably. For cotton and linen clothing, its alkali resistance is better. Choosing alkaline detergents such as ordinary soap or ordinary washing powder will not only damage the fiber, but also help to decontaminate.
For silk or woolen clothing, because protein fiber is not alkali-resistant, neutral soap flakes, neutral washing powder or weakly alkaline detergent should be used when washing to avoid fiber damage and affect hand feeling.
For clothes with milk stains, gravy, soy sauce, blood stains, etc., enzyme washing powder should also be used to remove the stains through alkaline protease decomposition.
Second, the clothing maintenance method:
Maintenance of cotton and linen clothing.
Generally speaking, cotton and linen clothing is not afraid of crystal exposure, but exposure to the sun for a long time will reduce the wearing fastness, which is especially easy to make the clothing fade or yellow. Therefore, it is necessary to avoid exposure and negative air. During wearing, corrosion and damage caused by acidic solution should be avoided.
Corduroy, velveteen clothing should try to reduce the pressure and grinding of elbows, arms, knees and buttocks to prevent calendering and shedding, and cannot be dried after being polluted by glue and paste, so as not to pull out fluff. It is best to brush suede frequently at ordinary times. After washing, drying and ironing, cotton and linen clothes should be stacked flat, and dark and light clothes should be stored separately. Cotton and linen clothes are easy to absorb moisture, so it is necessary to avoid mildew due to humidity, sultry, poor ventilation and unclean wardrobes, boxes and cabinets.
Maintenance of woolen goods.
Wool clothing should be dried in a cool and ventilated place. Exposure to sunlight will cause fading and decrease in luster, elasticity and strength. The drying time of thick and dark clothes can be longer, and the drying time of thin and light clothes is shorter. Don't touch sharp, rough objects and strong alkaline substances when wearing woolen clothes to prevent spinning, fuzzing and corrosion. Wool clothing with felting treatment should also pay attention to reducing friction as much as possible to avoid fluff falling off and revealing shading. Wool clothing should be washed, ironed and aired before collection, and then folded and stored after it is fully dry and cool.
High-grade woolen clothes had better not be hung in the wardrobe, so as not to be deformed and affect the appearance. At the same time, put sanitary balls or camphor tablets wrapped in paper in the pockets, inner pockets and cabinets of clothes to prevent insects from eating. In the process of collection, the cabinet should be properly opened to make it ventilated. In the summer with high humidity and high temperature, it is necessary to dry it several times to prevent mildew. Plush clothes can't be stressed, otherwise the fluff will fall off.
Maintenance of silk clothing.
Silk clothing belongs to high-grade clothing, which is generally not suitable for exposure in the sun to avoid fading, strength, feel and luster deterioration. When wearing, be careful not to contact with rough and sharp objects to prevent bumping, alkali, acid and other substances to prevent fiber damage. Tussah should avoid water stains than clothes, otherwise it is difficult to remove. When collecting silk garments, they should be washed, ironed and dried first, preferably folded, wrapped in cloth and put in the cupboard. Hanging on a hanger often makes some silk clothes longer because of their own weight. White or light-colored silk clothing should not be put in sanitary balls and mothballs, nor in mothballs boxes, otherwise it will turn yellow.
Maintenance of chemical fiber clothing.
Chemical fiber clothing should not be exposed to the sun for a long time, otherwise it will age and harden, reduce strength, change color or fade. Chemical fiber clothes should be washed, ironed, dried and stacked flat, and should not be hung in the wardrobe for a long time, so as not to make the clothes droop and elongate. Because chemical fiber is generally not moth-eaten and moldy, sanitary balls or camphor tablets can be stored without storage. For example, when storing its blended fabric clothes, a small amount of sanitary balls or camphor tablets should be put in, but they should be wrapped in paper to avoid direct contact with the clothes, because these agents will make the chemical fibers swell and deform, make them sticky and reduce their strength, and even damage the clothes, making them unable to wear. Proper ventilation and air drying are needed to prevent mildew.
Three, cheongsam ironing elements:
Ironing temperature Ironing is heat setting. Different fibers have different structures and properties, so the temperature required for ironing is also different. Too low temperature can't achieve the purpose of heat setting, while too high temperature will damage the fiber, even melt or carbonize. So the ironing of clothes needs a certain temperature control. For blended interwoven fabrics, the ironing temperature should be low or high, that is, according to the ironing temperature of the fiber with the worst heat resistance. The choice of ironing temperature should also consider the thickness and color of its texture. Thick, the ironing temperature can be appropriately higher; Thin, lower ironing temperature. The ironing temperature that is easy to change color should also be reduced appropriately.
Moisture content Usually, when ironing, you should sprinkle some water or spread a layer of wet cloth on the clothes to make the fibers wet, expand and stretch, and quickly enter the predetermined arrangement position with the lubrication of water molecules, and then set them under the action of heat. Tussah silk clothing should not be sprayed with water, otherwise it will be easy to get water stains. Vinylon clothing cannot be sprayed with water, and it is not suitable for ironing with wet cloth. Usually use dry cloth to iron, because vinylon will shrink or even melt when exposed to high temperature in wet state.
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