There is less rice in the north, and the dough is made of wheat flour, while there is more rice in the south, but there is no skill in making dough. Hanzhong is located in the transition zone between north and south, with both rice and wheat. Both wheat and rice flour can be made, especially rice flour. Every family in this country knows how to make dough. Needless to say, there are many masters in men, and it is probably a must in Hanzhong. Hanzhong dough sheet, that is, when rice is soaked in water until it is not hard or soft, it is ground into rice slurry, and then the rice slurry is evenly spread on the cage cloth of the steamer. Five minutes after the fire, the steamed dough can be poured on the table, cooled, smeared with vegetable oil, cut into thin strips, put into a bowl, add some bean sprouts or spinach, and then add salt, vinegar, soy sauce, ginger juice and garlic. When eating, it has a unique flavor, strong sour taste, soft and firm, and the appetite for swallowing is wide open. The more you eat, the more you want to eat It's cold in summer, and the fragrance is cold; You can eat it hot when steaming in winter, which can drive away a little cold. Eating cold and eating hot, the stomach is hot, the mouth is spicy, the forehead is beaded with sweat, the spirit is uplifted, and the fatigue is completely eliminated. Speaking of Hanzhong rice noodles, there is another folk legend. In the Three Kingdoms, Cao Cao led troops to attack Shu Han, and it was the rainy season when he entered Hanzhong. One day, I passed by the Han River, and the river suddenly surged, soaking all the collected rice. Cao heard this and scolded the boatman. A peasant woman happened to pass by and begged Cao to save the boatmen. The ingenious peasant woman grinded the swollen rice in the river into rice slurry overnight and invented the dough. After Cao Cao ate it, he was full of praise, that is, he ordered all the peasant women along the river to make it according to the law, steam it day and night, put it into rice bags and send it to the soldiers to carry with them. As a result, dough has been handed down among the people. This kind of local food is related to ancient legends. No wonder Hanzhong people like dough so much. Noodles can be used as both a staple food and a dish, which is one of the favorite foods of Hanzhong people. Regardless of the city or the countryside, whether it is cold or hot, dough has almost become an indispensable delicacy for people. Since the 1980s, snacks selling dough have spread all over the streets, especially on both sides of the streets in the morning and evening, becoming a "dough world". The cries of selling "dough" are one after another, each one is better than the other, and the singing is general, which attracts pedestrians to stop. The dough shop is full of diners and almost packed. Diners sit or squat, enjoy themselves, chew and drink with their bellies bulging, which is very spectacular. The most interesting thing is that most people who eat dough are handsome men and beautiful women, especially girls. As soon as I entered the noodle shop, I didn't leave a red circle on my mouth and a few strings of sweat on my forehead, so I couldn't bear to put down my bowl. In the past, this kind of "chin beauty" dough was not elegant, but now it has become a delicious food praised by diners at luxury hotel banquets. "Go and eat noodles." It has almost become the "mantra" of Hanzhong people. Every morning, wage earners who go to work and farmers who go out to work flock to the noodle restaurant and ask for a bowl of noodles and porridge. Less than two yuan, which is both economical and attractive, has become a substitute for breakfast for many people. Housewives cook a pot of porridge, buy a few pounds of dough, and have a good meal for the whole family. Even the author's three-year-old son clamored for dough when he saw porridge, and the dough actually cultivated a new generation of "love home". For foreigners who come to Hanzhong, the most unforgettable thing is the dough. A friend of mine in Xi 'an likes to eat dough three times a day every time he comes to Hanzhong, but he doesn't eat dough. If he is too addicted to dough, he won't go back to the provincial capital. The first sentence of the letter is: "I want to eat your Hanzhong noodle restaurant again." They are spicy and sour, fragrant and delicious! "
The dough is made of rice, soaked, ground into rice pulp, diluted with water, steamed in a special cage, cooled and cut into thin strips. It has the characteristics of white, fine, light, tender, fine, soft, tough and fragrant, supplemented by bean sprouts, spinach, shredded coriander, sesame sauce, Chili sauce, garlic juice and ginger juice. After mixing, red and green set each other off, yellow and white set each other off, with bright color, refreshing taste, fragrant smell and unique flavor. There are many ways to eat dough. In addition to cold food, you can also dry fry. White and bright, crisp and charming, comparable to the shrimp slices at the banquet. There are also ways to eat fried and stewed. It has long been a popular local snacks with unique flavor.
Noodles are called by Hanzhong people. People outside are generally called rice noodles and some are called cold rice noodles. At present, the more common name is Hanzhong rice noodle. The production technology of rice noodles is traditional and troublesome. First, the rice is rinsed and soaked in water, then ground into pulp with a stone mill, and then steamed with seasonings one by one. Speaking of trouble, first of all, if you don't cook well, you can't make dough well. For those housewives, whether you can grasp this degree is the standard to measure their level. Then there is grinding. Pushing a stone mill requires strength, shoveling rice requires patience, and shoveling requires considerable skill and close cooperation. In particular, how many meters you walk and how much water you take at a time are very particular. The fineness and thickness of rice flour paste and the consistency of rice flour paste determine the thickness and toughness of dough. Now we use the technology of machine rice milling, which is quite elegant.
Hanzhong people love dough, from dignitaries to ordinary people. It seems that dough is the most pleasant food in the world. Every authentic Hanzhong people usually have noodles for breakfast, and then a bowl of bean curd porridge. However, the price of 2 yuan makes people feel delicious. I remember that I went to school and worked in other places. Whenever I was sick and homesick, I would desperately look for our Hanzhong noodle restaurant. Even if I have no appetite, as long as I see it, don't mention a fragrance! By the way, our noodles in Hanzhong are generally divided into hot noodles and cold noodles. Hehe, it's actually the same technology, except that the hot noodles can be eaten when they are released, and the taste is soft. As for cold noodles, just cool the hot noodles, the taste is smooth and full of energy. As for how to choose them, it is entirely out of your own requirements!
I'm from Hanzhong, Shaanxi, and my love for dough is irreplaceable. It is a pleasure to have a big spread of dough early. At noon, any noodle shop in any street still eats a lot. Not to mention in the evening, stalls of various fancy snacks are still not as popular as an authentic noodle shop. I have no other interest in eating. If I meet a noodle shop with a good taste and a lot of peppers, that kind of energy is not to mention. I must take a deep breath to enlarge my stomach and fill it. Alas, it's a pity that the dough in the morning has been completely digested by me. Forget it, swallow your saliva and wait for tomorrow!
In recent years, whether on business trip, study or work, when we got off the train or bus, we all watched the noodle stand eagerly, rushed up, left our luggage behind, ate a bowl or two of noodles before coming out, and then said something else. It seems that with the enjoyment of breathing, all the troubles of going out and deep homesickness will disappear.
Noodles, a loud snack in Hanzhong, are called "Hanzhong cold rice noodles" by the world, but most people in Hanzhong eat "hot skin", which is white, soft and smooth, similar to the characteristics of girls here. Steam the hot dough in a rice-soaking beating cage. Take the hot dough out of the pot and cross-cut it with a straw cutter. Put the bean sprouts in a bowl, and then mix them with pepper, garlic, ginger and spiced soup. The key to improve the taste of Hanzhong dough is to "hit a pepper". This kind of oily pepper is usually made by the stall owner himself. Every family has a secret recipe. Whoever smells pepper will eat more people, and rumors will spread. Some people will say, a stall of dough, Chili noodles, mixed with dichlorvos, opium shells, baby urine Generally, a bowl of bean curd porridge is a "set meal" for eating Hanzhong rice noodles. The method of making bean curd porridge is to boil fresh soybean milk, pour sauerkraut water along the pot with a shallow spoon, and seal the pot until there is a round bean curd block on the bean curd. When scooping, half a bowl of soup is full of tender tofu, which is refreshing and nutritious. As for Guanzhong's dough, Qishan's dough is the most gorgeous. The shape of dough seasoning is almost the same as that of Hanzhong dough, but it is still "pasta" in essence. It is to make wheat flour into dough, then "wash out" the gluten with warm water, and scoop the empty soup slurry onto a white basket and steam it. Cut the Qishan noodles out of the pot into finger width, put them into a big iron spoon, then mix all the steamed gluten, garlic water, mung bean sprouts, aniseed mixed soup, oil chili pepper and mustard, and stir well to serve. The taste of Qishan rice noodles is mild and sour. You will sweat if you eat a plate of Qishan cold rice noodles. Qishan noodles are actually a small revolution in noodles. It absorbs the "gluten" of noodles, making the roughness and generosity of noodles present a flexible side, which is very close to Hanzhong dough in characteristics.
Rice and flour respectively define the general direction of Hanzhong Guanzhong diet. At the same time, it also shapes the completely different personality characteristics and life value orientation of people in the two places. At this point, we can find some evidence from Compendium of Materia Medica, which says that rice can tonify the spleen and wheat can tonify the heart. Spleen is good, human nature is soft, heart is good, and people are sincere. So in general, Hanzhong people tend to be white, delicate, short and pithy, while Guanzhong people tend to be strong and powerful. With the adjustment of mountains and rivers, Hanzhong people show a gentle and affectionate temperament, so elegant and free and easy, while Guanzhong people show a rough mind, often fighting righteousness, and sometimes swordsmen.
This kind of stall is generally small, and a facade is enough. There is a big stove at the door, with a cauldron burning boiling water on it, and towering steamer stands on the water layer by layer. Slowly lift a cage, then pour rice paste into a cage and steam it. There is also a stove next to it. There is a big pot of seasoning soup on the stove that has been cooked all night. There are many good things in it: chopped green onion, ginger rice, pepper, tsaoko, aniseed and other spices, as well as gastrodia elata and angelica sinensis.
Dough is actually made of rice, similar to rice noodles in the south. Because tenderness and strength are like good noodles, it is named. You can cut it as thin as noodles, or put it in a bowl and mix it with seasoning soup.
If you eat dough without pepper, you won't taste anything. Pay attention to the selection of fine peppers, finely ground into flour, add sesame seeds, and then pour hot oil, which makes people's appetite open from a distance. So you have to sit down. Who made your stomach so naughty? I just ate a bowl unconsciously, which is a bit like pig eight quit eating ginseng fruit. She only knows how delicious it is, how to eat it, but forgets the taste, so you have to have another bowl and savor it. It's just that some people can't tell why after all. Not spicy, not sour, not numb. I just feel warm in my heart, comfortable in my stomach, fragrant in my mouth, oily but not greasy, refreshing and warm. It's best to drink another bowl of vegetable tofu, just like drinking coffee with your partner. After a while, your head and feet are steaming, and your face is like a peach blossom. No wonder the girls in Hanzhong usually look moist and gentle, but they are quite swallowing mountains and rivers when they eat their dough.
With the reform and opening up, this snack in southern Shaanxi has also been put on the streets of Beijing and stalls in Shenzhen. It's just expensive. Forget it, the taste is not very authentic. In particular, I am not used to outsiders always calling dough cold noodles. Because I always think that eating cold dough is good, and eating hot dough is even more tasteless. Late at night in the middle of winter, the weather is cold, but the night market is crowded with people. Just to eat a bowl of steamed and hot dough. Especially the excellent midnight snack between couples, steaming, snuggling up to you, eating with emotion and tone, has made it prosperous and sweet, beautiful!
I thought snacks were snacks after all and could not be served. Who knows that once I accidentally saw dough at a friend's wedding banquet, it was surrounded by a circle of polished lean meat, covered with a large piece of lettuce leaves, surrounded by many cherries and lotus seeds, and all the color, smell and fragrance were occupied by it. The big plate was served in less than two minutes, and one person and two chopsticks were swept away.
Even so, I always feel that dough is popular after all, and it is better not to put on those noble and gorgeous coats.
A little understanding of a stranger who loves rice noodles;
There are many kinds of noodles in Shaanxi. Geographically, there are several kinds, such as Qin Zhen noodles, Qishan noodles and Hanzhong noodles. This is exactly what I know. The raw materials are basically flour and rice. Qin Zhen and Hanzhong rice noodles are made of rice, and Qishan rice noodles are made of flour, so Qishan rice noodles are also called Qishan handmade noodles. Most people in Shaanxi prefer to eat dough, especially women. If they don't eat for a few days, they will definitely think about it.
Of the three kinds of dough, I personally prefer Hanzhong dough, which is soft and smooth. The delicious Hanzhong rice noodles must be made of soybean sprouts without auxin, with farmers frying them in iron pan first, then smashing them out with stone nests, and finally sprinkling hot oil and sesame peppers. That's incense. When eating Hanzhong noodles, the authentic eating method is a bowl of noodles, a dish of tofu, and a small dish of sauce, which is specially used for cooking tofu. Hanzhong rice noodles can arouse people's appetite just by looking at their appearance, such as white rice noodles, bean sprouts and red peppers. But tofu doesn't look good. It is dotted with pickles like broken tofu, and it is like stale tofu that has been put for several days. But don't look at it, it is a very healthy food. The so-called pickles are boiled vegetables cooked by the store. It turns out that Hanzhong people order vegetable tofu with boiled vegetables, which is healthier than brine, right? Hanzhong people are good at mixing noodles. Many people eat at least once a day, and some people even take some food with them when they are on business trips. In addition to noodles and vegetable tofu, there are sufu, Mi Dou bean jelly and bean paste porridge in Hanzhong, all of which are quite delicious.
Hanzhong people live a long life, which many Hanzhong people think is related to their frequent eating of dough and vegetable tofu. Hanzhong is also a place with outstanding people, such as Liu Bang, Han Xin, Cao Cao and Zhuge Liang. Many historical celebrities have left footprints in Hanzhong. Hanzhong has a pleasant climate and is called Little Jiangnan. In April, the rape blossoms in Hanzhong are very romantic, and the lotus flowers in Zhuge Liang Temple in Mianxian County seem to bloom in April. You should really go for a walk, eat dough and look at the past when you have the chance. It must have a special taste.
Hanzhong basin has humid climate, abundant water resources, fertile land, rich products and rich rice, and is known as "land of abundance". Hanzhong rice noodles are made of high-quality rice which is abundant locally. On the first day, wash the rice, soak it and grind it into pulp, which should not be too thick or too thin. It should be thin paste. Then, put the pulp into a special tin pan, put it in boiling water and cook it slightly. Take out the pot, dip it in cold water, rotate the chopstick head along the pot and buckle it backwards, and a white and soft dough piece will be made. Put some cooked oil on the dough, fold it, and cut it into finger-wide noodles with a knife. This kind of dough is flexible and common, with soft entrance and smooth and delicate taste. Of course, dough cannot be separated from tin foil. Generally, some shredded cucumbers or boiled bean sprouts and cowpeas are crisp things that complement each other. In addition, there are essential seasonings: soy sauce, vinegar, mashed garlic, monosodium glutamate, pepper, mustard, sesame sauce and Hong Kong. Especially peppers. It is the most delicious seasoning. Without red pepper, there is no soul. There is no seasonality in eating dough, which can be found all year round, spring, summer, autumn and winter. Rice flour leather is an excellent food for Hanzhong people to entertain guests. In large and small hotels, you can eat golden bottles of wine and delicacies, and you must not miss a big plate of dough, and this kind of dough will definitely be the most popular and the first to eat. Even people who are too sick to drink tea and eat rice want to eat a bowl of rice skin with an open stomach. Later, people switched to overlapping bamboo cages, which could be steamed several times, big and thin. Cut into thin strips, the tendons are flexible, soft and continuous, like noodles, and renamed as "dough". The dough here means: made of rice, not flour. However, the dough mixing technology in Hanzhong is getting more and more sophisticated. Eating noodles in winter can keep you warm, relieve fatigue in summer, relieve fatigue in spring and eliminate dampness in autumn. It is a rare natural green pollution-free food suitable for all seasons.