1. Select a suitable plot and strong seedlings. Grapes are highly adaptable to soil and can be planted in sandy soil, sandy loam, loam, gravelly soil, light saline-alkali soil and other soils, but sandy loam is the most suitable, and sandy loam soil should be chosen for planting as much as possible. In order to improve the survival rate of transplanting and increase yields early, on the basis of selecting varieties with strong cold resistance, it is necessary to select high-quality seedlings with developed root systems, abundant branches and buds, and no pests, diseases, or mechanical damage.
2. Precise soil preparation and fertilization to improve planting quality. After the plot of land is selected, plowed and leveled, pits are dug according to the predetermined spacing between rows and plants. The upper diameter of the pit is 80 cm and the bottom diameter is 40 cm. Properly prune the roots and branches of the seedlings before planting, and retain as much of the root system as possible. Apply 30 to 40 kilograms of organic fertilizer and 0.5 kilogram of urea to each pit. Spread evenly into the bottom of the pit, then backfill with 10 centimeters of soil. Plant one grape seedling in each pit. Fill the soil with compaction and then irrigate once with water. After the water seeps out, it should be filled with water once. Cover the pit with soil.
3. Strengthen post-planting management. About 7 days after planting, the soil should be piled up to prevent cold and moisture. The thickness of the soil pile is generally about 30 cm, which is conducive to moisture conservation and the safe overwintering of the seedlings. After the late frost in the coming year, remove the cold-proof soil mound at the right time and water it once. Before germination, cut off 2 to 3 bud eyes; after germination, touch off excess buds and top off the secondary shoots; when the main shoot grows to 50 cm long When, perform topping. Later, it will be transferred to normal field management.
The collection of cuttings is generally done in conjunction with winter pruning. Annual branches that are fully developed, well-grown, short internode, normal in color, full of buds, and free of pests and diseases are selected as cuttings and cut into 7-7 pieces. 8-node long branch segments (about 50 cm) are bundled into a bundle every 50-100 branches, and the variety name and collection location are marked, and stored in the sand in a storage ditch. The storage ditch is located in the shade of high and dry terrain. The depth of the ditch is 60-80 cm. The length and width depend on the number of storage branches. Before storage, spread a layer of wet sand with a thickness of 10-15 cm on the bottom of the ditch. The cuttings can be placed flat or vertically, but a layer of sand should be sprinkled on each branch to reduce the respiratory heat of the branches. If there is no sand, you can also use soil. The humidity of the soil is about 10%. Fill the spaces between the bundles with fine soil. The number of layers for placing cuttings is 3. If there are too many layers, it will be difficult to inspect and manage, and it will also easily cause heat and mildew. Vertical straw bales are erected every 2 meters in the middle of the strips to facilitate upward and downward ventilation. After the branches are arranged, the top layer can be covered with a layer of straw, and finally covered with 20-30 cm of soil. In cold areas of Northeast and North China, the soil thickness should be increased appropriately. During the storage period of cuttings, regular inspections should be made to keep the temperature in the sand trench at about 1°C, which should generally not be higher than 5°C or lower than -3°C. If the temperature is too high, the respiration of the branches will be enhanced, nutrient consumption will increase, and mold will easily occur; if the temperature is too low, the buds will be susceptible to frost damage. The humidity in the storage ditch is also suitable. If the humidity is too high and the branches are moldy, turn them over in time to ventilate them and store them again.
Cutting propagation method
1. Ordinary cutting propagation methods
(1) Root cutting without urging (open field cutting and seedling cultivation). After taking out the stored branches from the ditch in spring, soak them in clean water indoors for 6-8 hours, and then cut them. Generally, the branches are cut into cuttings with 2-3 buds. The cuttings are generally about 20 cm long, and varieties with long internodes only have 1-2 buds left on each cutting. When cutting the cuttings, cut the upper end flatly 1 cm above the bud, and cut the lower end diagonally below the bud. The cut will be "horse-ear shaped" (it is easier to root when the cut is close to the eye of the bud). The bud eyes on the upper part of the cuttings should be full and plump. If the first bud eye is damaged after cutting, the second bud eye can germinate, which will help improve the survival rate of the cutting.
The nursery land should be selected in a place with flat terrain, deep soil, loose and fertile soil, and irrigation conditions. In the autumn of the first year, the soil was plowed 30-40 cm deep, combined with deep plowing, 3000-5000 kg of organic fertilizer was applied per 666.7 square meters, and winter irrigation was carried out. In early spring, rake the ground promptly after it thaws to preserve moisture. Cuttings are divided into flat border cuttings, high border cuttings and ridge cuttings. Flat border cuttings are mainly used in drier areas to facilitate irrigation; high border cuttings and ridge cuttings are mainly used in areas with relatively humid soil to allow timely drainage and prevent the border surface from being overly wet. Regardless of cuttings from a flat border or a high border, a seedbed must be prepared before cutting. The size of the seedbed should be determined according to the shape of the plot. Generally, the width of the border is 1 meter and the length is 8-10 meters. The spacing between cuttings is 12-15 cm, the spacing between rows is 30-40 cm, and 3-4 rows are inserted in each border. When cutting, insert the cuttings diagonally into the soil, with a bud eye exposed on the ground. The bud eye should be above the back of the cutting, so that the new shoot ends are straight. When inserting ridges, the ridge width is about 30 cm, the height is 15 cm, the ridge spacing is 50-60 cm, and the plant spacing is 12-15 cm. All cuttings are inserted diagonally on the ridge. After cutting, irrigate the ridge with water. If possible, cover with mulch to achieve better cutting results. No matter which cutting method is used, when cutting, you must pay attention to the fact that the upper end of the cuttings cannot be exposed to the ground for too long, and at the same time, you must prevent random cuttings and avoid mixing varieties.
The cutting time starts when the local soil temperature (15-20 cm) is stable above 10℃. In North China, it is generally from late March to early April, but in northern North China, open-field cutting and seedling cultivation can only be carried out in mid-April.
The soil must be prevented from drying out after the grape cuttings are cut and before new roots are produced. Watering is usually done once every 10 days. Heavy clay soil should be watered less often. If watered too much, the soil will be too wet, the ground temperature will drop, and poor soil aeration will also affect the rooting of the cuttings. After the cuttings take root, fertilizer and water management should be strengthened.
In early to mid-July, seedlings enter the rapid growth stage. At this time, quick-acting fertilizer should be applied 2-3 times. In order to make the branches fully mature, irrigation and fertilization should be stopped or reduced from late July to August. At the same time, pest control should be strengthened, and main and auxiliary shoots should be topping to ensure healthy growth of seedlings and promote thickening growth. During the growth period of seedlings, it is necessary to cultivate and weed in time to improve soil aeration conditions and promote root growth.
Open field cutting is the simplest method of raising seedlings, with low cost and easy promotion. However, if not properly managed, the survival rate of cuttings and the emergence rate of seedlings will be low. In addition, when cuttings are taken in the open field, the growth period of the seedlings is shorter and the quality of the seedlings is relatively poor. Generally, 6000-7000 cuttings are taken per 666.7 square meters in the open field, and the seedling growth rate is 60%-70%.
(2) Root-stimulating cuttings. The temperature rises quickly in spring in northern my country from March to April, while the ground temperature rises slowly. For open-field cuttings, the cuttings often germinate first and then take root. The time difference between germination and rooting is more than 20 seconds. If not managed properly, the sprouts will often wither due to insufficient water and nutrient supply, seriously affecting the survival rate of the cuttings. The reason is that the germination of grape buds requires a relatively low temperature, and generally can germinate at around 10°C. Rooting requires high temperature, and rooting is fastest at 25-28°C. Rooting is based on the temperature requirements for grape rooting. Artificial heating accelerates the division of primary somatic cells at the base of the cuttings and promotes the formation of adventitious roots. Commonly used root promotion methods in production include hotbed root promotion, fire pit root promotion, electric heating root promotion and chemical agent treatment root promotion.
Rooting in a hotbed: Use fermented heat to create heating conditions in the hotbed to promote rooting. Before promoting roots, first dig a bed pit in the ground. The bottom of the pit is slightly higher in the middle and slightly lower around it. Then fill in 20-30 cm thick raw horse manure, while filling it, level it, water it to moisten the horse manure, and cover it. Put a plastic film on the horse manure to promote fermentation and heat generation. After a few days, when the temperature rises to 30-40℃, spread about 5 cm of fine soil on top of the horse manure. When the temperature drops and stabilizes at around 30℃, it will be ready. The cuttings are arranged neatly and upright on top. Fill the branches with wet sand or wet sawdust to prevent heat from rising and water evaporating. The soil temperature in the lower part of the cuttings should be maintained at 22-30°C. Be careful not to bury the buds at the top of the cuttings in the sand to avoid premature germination due to high temperatures. During the root promotion period, keep the sand or sawdust moist, and pay attention to controlling the temperature of the bed surface. During the day, remove the plastic film covering the hotbed, and use the cold air in early spring to lower the bed surface temperature and prevent premature germination of bud eyes.
Fire pit to stimulate roots: Huilong fire pit is generally used, either semi-underground type or above ground type. The width of the kang is 1.5-2 meters, and the length depends on the needs. The specific construction method is to dig 2-3 small trenches under the kang bed first. The small groove is 20 cm deep and 15 cm wide. The small ditch is paved with bricks or adobe. This is the first layer of flue, the main flue. There should be a certain angle from the flue exit to the entrance, tilting upward, and then use bricks or adobe to build a flower hole on the first layer of flue, which is the second layer of flue. The Kang surface was plastered with mud, and a low brick wall was built around it. After the fire pit is repaired, a trial burning should be carried out first, and areas where the temperature is too high should be appropriately filled with soil. When the temperature is uniform everywhere on the kang surface (20-28°C), spread 10 cm thick wet sand or wet sawdust, place cuttings on top to promote rooting, and cover with plastic film to prevent the cuttings from losing water and drying out.
The construction methods of the heated kang vary from place to place. In some areas, the heated kang is relatively simple, with only one layer of flue and three trenches dug under the bed. The middle ditch is the main fire channel, extending from the fire opening to the end of the fire pit, with an inclination of 25 degrees to 30 degrees. There are two auxiliary fire channels on both sides. The main and auxiliary fire channels are 20-40 cm apart and connected at the end of the fire pit. The auxiliary fire channel should also be built into a gentle slope, all the way back to the smoke outlet on the burner. The width of the main and auxiliary fire channels is 25 cm and the height is about 20 cm. The fire path is paved with machine tiles and then filled with a layer of soil to make it solid and build a kang surface. Other root stimulation methods are the same as Huilong Huo Kang.
The construction of a heated kang is relatively simple and is suitable for use in areas without power and those accustomed to raising seedlings on a heated kang.
Plastic nutrient bag seedlings can be raised in a greenhouse, a fire bed or a sun bed. If a sun bed is used to raise seedlings, fill the plastic bag with nutrient soil so that the soil surface in the bag is about 1 cm away from the mouth of the bag, and then add the nutrients The bags are neatly arranged in the Yang Qi. Generally, 400 nutritional bags can be placed in 1 square meter of Yangqi. When cutting, cut the stored cuttings into bud segments. Thick branches can be cut into single-bud cuttings, and thinner branches can be cut into double-bud cuttings. Cut flatly 1 cm above the bud eye, leaving 3-3 inches under the bud. 5 cm diagonal cut (when cutting double buds, cut diagonally below the second bud to make a horse-ear shape). Treat the cut bud segments with root accelerating chemicals and insert them straight into the center of the arranged nutrient bag. The top buds of the cuttings should be flush with the soil surface in the bag. After the cuttings are made, water them once and set up an arched support on the sunny border. Cover it with a plastic film. On sunny days, uncover the film and ventilate it. Cover it tightly at night to keep the temperature in the border above 20°C during the day. If it exceeds 30℃, the night temperature can be kept above 10℃.
If you are raising seedlings in a greenhouse or on a heated bed, use the same method. Place the plastic bags filled with nutrient soil in the greenhouse or on the heated bed. The cutting method is the same as in the sun bed, except that the greenhouse seedlings start time Can be advanced to L-February. When raising seedlings on a fire bed, the start time can be slightly later. The time for raising seedlings in Yangqi can be determined by referring to the seedling raising time of local vegetable farmers. The principle is that the local late frost period has passed when the seedlings are planted and the temperature in the open field is suitable for the growth of seedlings.
The management work after cutting is relatively simple. The main thing is to maintain the appropriate humidity in the bag and avoid getting water in the bag. When nutrients are insufficient, after 2-3 leaves grow, 0.3% urea and potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be sprayed 1-3 times. When the seedlings grow to 20-25 cm, they can be planted in the open field in about mid-to-late May.
The advantages of growing seedlings in plastic nutrition bags are: ① Save cuttings. ②The survival rate is high during planting. Seedlings grown in plastic bags have well-developed root systems. After removing the plastic bags during planting, the soil will not be scattered or the roots will be damaged. The seedlings will continue to grow without slowing down the seedlings after planting. The survival rate can generally reach more than 95%. ③Save land and labor. When seedlings are raised by cuttings in the open field, about 5,000 seedlings can emerge per 666.7 square meters. However, when seedlings are raised in protected plastic bags, more than 100,000 seedlings can emerge per 666.7 square meters. At the same time, post-planting management is also relatively simple, requiring only watering and no need to till and loosen the soil, and it is also very convenient to raise seedlings, fake planting, and transport. ④Results can be obtained early. Seedlings grown in plastic bags can be planted in May. Since there is no slowing-down process after planting and the growth period is relatively extended, the plants can take shape that year and start bearing fruit in the second year.
The key to growing seedlings in plastic nutrition bags is to pay attention to controlling moisture. Excessive moisture will cause the cuttings to rot and deteriorate, so check them frequently. When raising seedlings in plastic bags in a greenhouse, the temperature of the greenhouse should be kept at 25-30°C during the day, with a maximum of no more than 30°C, and the night temperature should not be lower than 15°C.
(2) Fire kang seedling cultivation Fire kang seedling cultivation is actually based on the fire kang root promotion, directly cultivating the cuttings into seedlings on the fire kang, and then planting them in the field.
The construction of the fire kang and the preparation of cuttings are the same as the fire kang for rooting. Only the density of cuttings is not as high as that of rooting. Generally, one cutting is planted 4-5 cm apart, and 2 cuttings are buried. People in wet sand. After cutting the whole kang, start burning the fire at any time. Burn the fire 2-3 times every night and morning to keep the temperature in the sand on the bed at 25-30°C. At the same time, pay attention to sprinkling water frequently to keep the bed moist. When the temperature is high, remove the plastic film in time for ventilation. Under normal circumstances, the fire time takes about 1 month or 1.5 months. Stop heating 7-10 days before entering the field for planting, and conduct adaptive training on the seedlings. Generally, healing tissue begins to form after 12 days of cutting, and the rooting rate reaches 70% after 20 days. After one month, one cutting can grow more than 10 roots, and some of the roots are semi-lignified. At this time, 3-4 leaves can also appear on the ground, and the height of the seedlings can reach 13-20 cm. In practical applications, in order to facilitate management and seedling transplantation, a seedling raising method that combines nutrient bowls or nutrient bags with heated kang is often used.
Fire-kang seedling cultivation saves time, land, and labor, requires less investment, has quick results, and has a high seedling rate. This method can be used in rural areas without electricity supply.
Fired Kang seedling cultivation is the same as electric heating seedling cultivation. It realizes spring seedling raising and early summer planting, prolongs the growth time of seedlings, and creates conditions for early formation, early fruiting, and early high yield.
When raising seedlings in a fire pit, the fire pit can be built in a residential courtyard or at the edge of a village, saving special land for seedlings.
For places without irrigation conditions, open-field seedling cultivation often fails due to insufficient water supply, while fire-kang seedling cultivation can concentrate seedlings, save water, and is more convenient to manage. Therefore, this centralized seedling breeding method should be promoted in arid areas.
(3) Electric heating seedlings or electric heating root-stimulating greenhouse seedlings. This method of raising seedlings is actually based on electric heating root stimulation. The cuttings are cultivated into seedlings on the electric heating hotbed or the cuttings are cut after electric heating root stimulation. Grow seedlings in the greenhouse. Therefore, the seedling establishment rate is higher, and the seedling growth time is also longer. Generally, the growth period can be extended by about 2 months than ordinary open field cuttings, and it is easy to achieve the purpose of strong seedlings in the current year and fruiting in the second year.
The method is basically the same as the aforementioned electric root stimulation method.
(4) Before cutting grape seedlings covered with plastic film, cover the seedbed or seedling ridge with plastic film. Press the soil around the film tightly. When cutting, first use a thicker pointed stick to insert a hole in the seedbed. Then put the cuttings into the hole so that the top bud is about 0.5 cm above the ground. The lower cutting hole of the cuttings is sealed with soil, and then watered once.
The main function of mulch film is to increase ground temperature, maintain soil moisture, and promote the good growth of grape seedlings. Mulching reduces the evaporation of soil moisture, prevents soil compaction and weed overgrowth, and also eases the complex nursery management work. However, it should be noted that when the temperature is high, the mulch will cause seedling burning. At this time, the mulch should be covered with straw or the mulch should be removed in time to prevent seedling burning.
Grapes are temperature-loving plants. Germination begins when the temperature is 10oC in early spring. The higher the temperature, the faster the germination. The optimum temperature for the flowering period is 25-30°C. When encountering low temperature (below 15°C), rain, fog, and dry wind, pollination and fertilization will be poor, resulting in a large number of flowers and fruits falling. July to September is the ripening period for berries. If the temperature is insufficient, the berries will have poor coloring, reduced sugar content, and may not even be fully ripe. Whether the local area can meet the temperature for grape fruits to fully mature is usually based on the accumulated temperature. For example, the mature accumulated temperature of "Shifeng" (the sum of daily average temperatures from the flowering stage to the mature stage) is 2564oC, and its flowering stage to mature period is 102 days.
Grapes are light-loving.
Under sufficient light conditions, the leaves are thick and dark green, photosynthesis is strong, the plants grow strong, there are many flower buds, the berries have high sugar content and sweetness, and the yield is high.
The humidity is not easy to be too high. There is heavy rainfall before flowering, and excessive growth of new shoots consumes the stored nutrients of the plant; it is rainy during the flowering period and poor fertilization, causing flower drop; it is rainy during the fruit hypertrophy period to the maturity period, and there is insufficient light, low sugar content, poor coloration, poor quality, and easy fruit cracking. High temperature, rain and humidity are also the main reasons for the increase in grape diseases.
Grape shaping and pruning
The purpose of shaping and pruning is to adjust the contradiction between growth and fruiting, and rationally arrange branches and vines on the shelf to facilitate management, make the tree strong and extend the growth. longevity and create conditions for high yields year after year. The shaping and pruning of grapes varies depending on the variety. The "Jufeng" tree is very strong, so pruning should be done lightly to keep it long. Topping the fruiting branches and pinching off part of the ear tips before flowering will help ease the tree's vigor, reduce flower and fruit drop, and improve the fruit setting rate. For the "Vineyard Queen" with medium strength, it is better to prune the short and medium branches.
Shaping method. The first is multi-main vine shaping, which is suitable for areas where soil is buried to prevent cold in winter. In the year of planting, when the germination reaches 5-6 leaves, topping should be carried out, and 3-4 strong main vines should be selected. The second is to reshape the main trunk. Only one new shoot will be left after germination in the year of planting, and the main trunk will grow upright.
Winter pruning. Winter pruning of grapes is usually carried out from about January after the leaves fall in autumn to about 20 days before germination in the following year. Pruning too early or too late will cause serious damage to the tree, loss of nutrients, and weakened plant growth. According to the strength of the tree and the length of the fruit-bearing mother branches, the principles of winter pruning for grapes are: keep strong vines longer and keep weak vines shorter; keep the upper parts longer and the lower parts shorter. It can be roughly divided into three methods: (1) Long vine pruning. Long vine pruning generally uses the method of double vine renewal. Select and leave one vine under the fruiting mother vine as the renewal mother branch. Keep 2-3 healthy buds on the renewal mother branch, and keep 6-12 buds on the fruiting mother vine to encourage new shoots to be drawn out during the period, so that they can bloom and bear fruit in the same year. 2 new shoots (if 3 are extracted, one should be removed). If there are inflorescences on them, they should be removed to reduce nutrient consumption and promote the enrichment of branch tissue. When pruning in the next winter, all the fruit-bearing vines of that year will be cut off. The upper new shoots of the renewal mother vine will still retain 6-12 buds as the fruit-bearing vines, and the lower new shoots will retain 2-3 buds as the fruit-bearing vines. Update mother vine. When selecting the mother vine for renewal, pay attention to choosing it as close to the main trunk as possible to control the rate of growth of the fruiting part year by year. (2) Short vine pruning: First cultivate a vine of about one meter, and let multiple fruit-bearing main vines be extracted from the main vine. When pruning in winter, leave 2-3 buds on each fruit-bearing mother vine. After the shoots are drawn in spring, select the upper branch as the fruiting branch and the lower branch as the newer branch to prevent it from bearing fruit. When pruning in winter, cut off all the fruiting branches and leave 2-3 buds on the newer branches. (3) Medium vine pruning and renewal methods are basically the same as short vine pruning. The difference is that the mother branches retain more buds, usually 4-5 buds. In addition, when pruning, remove dense branches, weak branches, diseased branches, and dry branches.
Management of plants during growth. (1) Wipe the buds. In order to make the most economical and effective use of nutrients and make the new shoots dense and even, remove excess and unnecessary shoots as soon as possible. (2) Tie tips and remove tendrils. When the new shoots grow to 25 to 30 centimeters, they should be tied in time. The "word binding" method can prevent the new shoots from being injured by friction. Remove the tendrils while tying the tips to feed nutrient consumption. (3) Topping of new shoots and treatment of secondary shoots. Topping off new shoots can inhibit excessive growth of branches and vines. A large number of side shoots that occur after topping should be suppressed. The auxiliary shoots below the ear can be removed from the base. Leave 2 leaves on the auxiliary shoots above the ear for topping. Leave a few leaves on the auxiliary shoots at the top of the main shoot. Topping the fruiting branches can limit vegetative growth, promote nutrient accumulation in the inflorescence, and increase the fruit setting rate. . Generally, one week before flowering, it is advisable to leave 5 to 9 leaves on the uppermost ear for topping. (4) Trimming of inflorescences and fruit ears. There are often 1 to 3 inflorescences on a fruiting branch, and it is better to leave one well-developed inflorescence. Then trim the inflorescence appropriately. For varieties with low fruit setting rate and scattered fruit ears, such as Rose Xiang, Kyoho, etc., the secondary ears and part of the ear tip should be cut off 2 to 3 days before flowering to increase the fruit setting rate; White Malaga, Malaga, etc. with high fruit setting rate should be cut off. Italian and other varieties often have fruit pods that are prone to cracking and inconsistent fruit ripening. For these varieties, the seeds should be thinned with small pointed scissors 10 to 20 days after flowering to enlarge the fruit and improve quality. In Japan, the ears and grains of Kyoho grapes are thinned, and each ear is generally left with about 35 grains, and the weight of the grains can reach 15 to 18 grams.
Fertilizer and water management
Grapes are perennial plants that grow and bear fruit every year and need to absorb a large amount of nutrients from the soil. In order to maintain healthy tree growth and continuously improve product yield and quality, attention must be paid to rational fertilization. According to the measurement of some high-yield grape gardens in my country, for every 100 kilograms of berries produced, approximately 0.25-0.75 kilograms of nitrogen, 0.2-0.75 kilograms of phosphorus, and 0.13-0.63 kilograms of potassium are needed. Various regions can create appropriate fertilizer amounts according to local conditions through production practices and scientific experiments.
According to the fertilization period, it can be divided into base fertilizer and top dressing. Base fertilizer should be applied after the fruit is harvested until the end of September and early October when the new shoots are fully mature.
The base fertilizer is a mixture of slow-acting fertilizers such as decomposed human excrement or manure, poultry manure, green manure and phosphate fertilizer (superphosphate). Top-dressing is generally done more than ten days before flowering with quick-acting nitrogen fertilizers such as decomposed human excrement, cake fertilizer, etc. Top-dressing is mainly potash fertilizer such as plant ash, chicken manure, etc. in early July. Fertilizer can be applied by digging a circular trench about 1 meter away from the plant. The depth of the base fertilizer is about 40 centimeters. Top dressing should be shallower to avoid excessive damage to the roots. Watering is required after fertilizing.
Top dressing of grape roots has a significant effect on improving yield and quality, and the method is simple. Spraying 1-3% superphosphate solution before flowering, during the young fruit stage and during the ripening stage of berries can increase yield and improve quality; spraying 0.05-0.1% boric acid solution before flowering can increase the fruit setting rate; during the fruit setting period Spraying 0.02% potassium salt solution or 3% plant ash leaching solution during the fruit growth period (soak the day before spraying) can increase the sugar content and yield of berries. When spraying fertilizer outside the roots, in case of drought, the concentration should be appropriately reduced to avoid leaf burning; in areas where fertilizer has not been applied before, it is advisable to trial a small amount first, gain experience, and then gradually promote it.
Grapes are relatively drought-tolerant, but with proper irrigation, the yield can be significantly increased. Before the sap flows to flowering, attention should be paid to keeping the soil moist. If irrigation can be combined with top dressing at this time, good fertilizer and water conditions can be created for flowering and fruit setting. However, too much water during the flowering period will cause a lot of flower and fruit drop. Unless the soil is too dry, watering during the flowering period should not be done. After fruit setting and before fruit coloring, the temperature is high and the transpiration from the leaves is large, requiring a large amount of water. Watering can be done every 7-10 days depending on the weather. After the fruit grains are colored and begin to soften, unless there are too many drought years, the sugar content of the fruit will decrease and it will not tolerate storage and will crack easily. During the dormant period, too dry soil is not conducive to overwintering, and too wet soil can easily cause mold and rot in the buds. Generally, after harvesting, the grapes are irrigated once with fertilization in autumn. In northern production areas, they also need to be irrigated with east water before cold protection. This is an important measure for cold protection of grapes. .
There are many methods of propagating grape seedlings. Depending on the propagation materials used, they can be divided into two categories: vegetative propagation and asexual propagation. Sexual reproduction is the use of seeds to propagate seedlings, which is the so-called seedling propagation. The propagated seedlings are called seedlings. Sexual reproduction is mainly used for the propagation of rootstock seedlings in production. Because the seeds used for sexual reproduction are produced through a sexual process, they are greatly separated from a genetic perspective and cannot maintain the stability of the traits of the original variety. In addition, in conventional breeding, the hybrid seeds obtained through crossbreeding are sown to grow hybrid seedlings, and excellent individual plants are selected from them until they are cultivated into excellent varieties. Asexual propagation is a method of propagating seedlings using certain vegetative organs of plants (such as branches, roots and buds, etc.) as propagation materials. The resulting seedlings are called vegetative seedlings. Asexual propagation methods include hard branch cuttings, green branch cuttings, hard branch grafting and green branch grafting. On the basis of the above methods, the combination of various facilities and important conditions (such as greenhouses, greenhouses, small sheds, potential lines, nutrient bowls, etc.) can be greatly improved. 0 nk0210 2009-7-29 19:15:55 60.22.230.* Report Grape planting technology
Grapes are generally propagated by cuttings or layering. Cuttings are carried out in April before germination in spring. Choose strong branches in the middle and cut them into sections so that there are 1-3 nodes on each section. The lower end is cut close to the bud eye and inserted into the sand bed. The sand bed should be kept slightly moist, but not too wet. Roots can take root by late May. After potting, they should be placed in a semi-shady place to slow down the seedlings and gradually transition to normal management.
Layering can be done in early April by selecting a fruit-bearing mother branch with a diameter of 1-2 cm and a length of 40-60 cm, inserting the branch through the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot, and cutting 2 cm below the bud node of the branch. Girdle and then cover with fertile loose soil. The flower pots are hung in the air with brackets. Pay attention to frequent watering and keep the pot soil moist. Roots will begin to form in the girdling area in about a month. After two months, cut off half of the fruit-bearing mother branches outside the drainage hole of the flower pot. When the fruit matures, cut off all the mother branches. A fruit-bearing plant with 3-5 ears is obtained. The biggest advantage of this layering propagation method is that as long as it is carried out from March to April, a new plant that bears fruit can be cultivated.
To establish a successful vineyard, you must have a thorough understanding of site selection. Whether you have already established a vineyard, have chosen a location of your choice, or are in the process of choosing a site for your vineyard, you need to understand what locations are suitable for establishing a vineyard. When choosing a location for a vineyard in Texas, you should pay attention to the following aspects: climate, weather, water source and quality, and the effects of disease. When assessing whether a vineyard location is suitable, all aspects must be considered.
To decide the location of a vineyard, you must first find out whether the geographical conditions of the site are suitable for growing grapes. Only if the geographical location of the vineyard is compatible with the grape varieties, will it be possible to obtain high yields and high quality grapes in the future. Good management and favorable weather can realize the potential benefits of a vineyard. Grasping the subtle relationship between vines and vineyard location requires continuous learning, as well as putting planning and management into practice.
If you own a piece of land and want to build a vineyard there, you should first evaluate which grape variety is best suited for the land and whether it fits your business plan. If you plant unsuitable varieties, you will have to spend the whole year dealing with endless problems. Not only will the grapes produce low yields and poor quality, but they will also be cost-effective. It is a more feasible method to first decide what varieties you want to grow and then choose a suitable location.