Pruning should choose the right time and master the correct pruning method. Generally, pruning can be carried out in dormancy and growth period, but the specific time to master it depends on their habits, cold tolerance and pruning purpose. Generally speaking, flowers that bloom first and then grow leaves in early spring, such as plum blossom and winter jasmine, have buds on biennial branches, so they must be pruned after flowering. If pruned before germination in early spring, the flower branches will be cut off, resulting in non-flowering. Therefore, pruning should be carried out within 1-2 weeks after flowering, but at this time, flowers and trees have begun to grow and the flow is relatively strong, so the pruning amount should not be too large. Flowers and trees that bloom in summer and autumn, such as crape myrtle, rose and jasmine. All have their flower buds on the branches of that year, which can be pruned during the dormant period before germination. Leaf-watching flowers can also sleep. When pruning during dormancy, those with strong cold tolerance can be pruned in late autumn and early winter to avoid inducing autumn shoots, which is not conducive to flowering and fruiting in the coming year and keeping out the cold and freezing. People who are afraid of poor things should do it before the sap begins to flow out in early spring and germinate. In addition, the purpose of pruning or pruning flowers and trees is to renew, so when forced pruning is needed, it is suitable for dormancy. During the growth period of flowers, pruning is mostly for ventilation and light transmission, pest control, long white branches or nutrition adjustment, so that the flower posture is more elegant, dense and robust, and the pruning degree should generally be light. Also pay attention to the outside of the cut bud, so that the branches extend outward and the incision becomes an inclined plane, and the bud should stay on the other side of the incision. The top of the cut slope should be slightly higher than the remaining bud 1-2 mm, not too high or too low.

1 Pruning and coring: Pruning and coring are the work of removing the top of growing branches. After the branches become hard, you need to cut them slightly with scissors to make them tender. If they are tender, you can pick the core with your fingers. The purpose of pre-pumping and coring is to inhibit the harmonious growth to a higher height, which is beneficial to nutrient accumulation, enrich branching tissues, promote the germination of lateral branches, increase the number of branches and flowers, or dwarf the plants, make the plant shape perfect and blossom neatly. For example, a chrysanthemum can bloom more than 3,000 flowers, which is the result of repeated enucleation. In addition, enucleation can also inhibit growth and delay flowering.

2 Bud wiping: Bud wiping is to wipe off the axillary buds, twigs or buds of flowers, with the purpose of concentrating nutrition, making the trunk straight and stout, the flowers big and gorgeous, and the fruits rich and full.

Thinning: in order to adjust the posture of the tree, it is conducive to ventilation and light transmission, dead branches, insect branches, slender branches, parallel branches, long branches, dense branches and so on. It is usually cut off. During thinning, the stubble should not be too long, nor should it be cut into the next branch. The upper incision should be cut at an oblique angle of 45 degrees from the branch point, and the incision should be smooth and weak in germination, such as magnolia grandiflora and white Finland.

4 Root cutting: Root cutting is mostly carried out when transplanting and changing pots (turning pots). For example, when transplanting seedlings, the excessively long taproots should be cut short to promote the growth of lateral roots, while when flowers put pots or change pots, moderate root cutting can inhibit the excessive growth of branches and leaves and promote the formation of buds. Rooting is usually carried out during dormancy, but when plants grow excessively, it can also be carried out during growth.

5. Erect the scaffold: commonly known as "Zadda" (commonly known as "Dada" scaffold) to cultivate potted flowers climbing vines, such as creeping hydrangea, Lingxiao and wisteria. Tie the scaffold with thin bamboo poles, reed poles or thick lead wires, and bind branches and vines with warps to make them climb and grow, thus increasing the ornamental effect.

Do plastic surgery

There are various forms of plastic surgery, such as single stem (such as single chrysanthemum, single stem dahlia, etc. ), more dry (such as begonia, pomegranate, peach blossom, plum blossom, etc.). ), overgrown (such as brown bamboo, southern bamboo, anchovies, etc. ), and drooping (such as cliff chrysanthemum, ivy, etc.). In short, according to needs and hobbies, after artistic processing and careful consideration.

How to prune flowers

1, when the plant is too high, it can be pruned and dwarfed to promote plant division, as shown in the figure.

2, pay attention to the pruning position is not too low, so as not to affect the germination, in addition to cutting off the branches above, as shown in the figure.

3. The position of each plant should be the same height, and the plant type will look good, as shown in the figure.

4. Finally, after cutting, add grain fertilizer to supplement nutrients, as shown in the figure.

How to prune flowers

Seven pruning

Master the pruning time. The suitable period of pruning varies with the variety and the purpose of pruning, which can generally be divided into growth period pruning and dormancy period pruning. Dormancy pruning should be carried out in early spring when sap just begins to flow and buds are about to germinate. It is not appropriate to do it too early or too late. Generally speaking, it is not advisable to prune too much during the growth period, but to prune too little. For example, Chinese rose, rose, etc., should be cut off in time after the flowers wither.

Master the pruning method. In order to inhibit the growth of flowers or promote branching, fingers or scissors can be used to remove the growing points of twigs; In order to reduce nutrient consumption and promote nutrient growth, it is advisable to wipe off adventitious buds by hand before lignification; When transplanting flowers and trees, it is advisable to cut off some leaves; If there are too many young fruits in flower buds, you should thin them by hand as soon as possible; In order to make flowers and fruits bigger, you can remove too many buds as soon as possible. When pruning flowers and trees, the thick ones should be sawed, the thin ones should be cut and the cut should be smooth. When sawing thick branches, it is necessary to prevent the trunk skin from tearing when the branches are broken; If the excessive growth of flowers affects the flowering and fruiting, some roots should be cut off to weaken the absorption capacity and inhibit the vegetative growth. Root pruning of potted flowers should be carried out when changing pots.

How to cut the pattern of flowers

First, the peach blossom cutting method

Peach blossom, which symbolizes spring, is a flower that many people like. Whenever spring comes, we can make some paper-cuts about peach blossoms to decorate the room. Here are some paper-cut patterns of peach blossoms, and the paper-cut process of peach blossoms is described in detail. After mastering the basic techniques, you can do related expansion creation according to your own preferences.

1. Preparation: Take a piece of colored paper and fold it twice to form four layers, or take four pieces of colored paper and bind the edges. Generally, it is best to cut four or six layers of paper in a single paper-cut, but it is not easy to cut a single layer or too many layers.

2. Tracing: Draw an enlarged pattern with a pencil on the booked paper, and pay attention to the position of the flower heart and petals when tracing.

3. Cutting: According to the principle of "three first and three later" in the paper-cutting process, first cut from the flower center, let the cutting tip fall at the center of the flower center when cutting, and then gradually cut to the edge until a flower center circle is completely cut. If the cutting tip falls directly on the sideline, it will be easy to cut off the line, which will make the edge line irregular and smooth, and even cause the paper-cut to break. When cutting petals, it is the same as the flower center, and should be as far away from the sideline as possible, but not too close to the part where the sawtooth pattern is to be cut. After cutting, you should first cut the arc of the petals, and then cut the sawtooth pattern of the petals. The sawtooth of petals should be cut thinner, which is different from the big sawtooth of human hands.

Second, the cutting method of chrysanthemum

Because chrysanthemums are generally open in autumn, chrysanthemums that dare to meet the autumn wind have a cool, festive and bright meaning since ancient times. Make paper-cut chrysanthemums for friends to show their admiration for their integrity. At the same time, chrysanthemum has the meaning of longevity in our country, so it is also possible to send paper-cut chrysanthemums to nobles on their birthdays. At the same time, it is not difficult to make paper-cut chrysanthemums because of their own characteristics in appearance, but first we must design relevant paper-cut chrysanthemums.

1. Preparation: Take a piece of colored paper and fold it twice to form four layers, or take four pieces of colored paper and fasten the edges.

2. Description: On the booked paper, carefully describe it with a pencil according to the drawing. When drawing flower heads, pay attention to finding the composition rules of petals, observe which parts should be cut and which parts should be left, and make marks to avoid cutting mistakes.

3. Cut: When cutting this chrysanthemum, cut it from the center of the flower, the petals are nested one by one, and the curves echo one by one. Some petals can neither be too big nor too small. When cutting, you must pay attention to the smooth lines and don't leave stubble. When cutting the chrysanthemum of the "Golden Moon", you should also cut it from the center of the flower. Each petal points to the center of the flower, and the petals are interspersed with each other to form a radial circle outside.

When cutting chrysanthemum leaves, we should pay attention to the shape of chrysanthemum leaves. Its leaves are very special, some parts of the edges are circular arcs, and some parts form sharp corners, so we should pay attention to its morphological rules.

How to cut roses

Cutting should be carried out in late autumn and early winter, and strong and full branches should be selected, and slender branches, diseased branches and new branches should not be cut.

Each cutting should have at least 3 -4 leaves, and the rest should be removed to reduce evaporation. Put the cuttings in the sand bed, keep the temperature in a bright place and avoid direct sunlight at noon. They can take root in about a month and a half.

If the rooting hormone can be used in combination, the rooting rate can be improved and the rooting time can be shortened. The next spring, cuttings can be moved into pots, pots 6 or 7.

However, the suitable plant spacing for cultivating roses in the open field is 60cm in the big rotation period, 45cm in the middle rotation period, 25cm in the small rotation period, and the vine species is about 120cm. Potted roses should be changed every two years, and the new pot is about 6-7cm larger than the old one. When changing pots, the old soil of 1/2- 1/3 should be removed, and some tangled roots should be removed.

The budding method of roses is as follows: 1. After flowering, the leaves are cut off to use their teeth as scions. 2. Tooth tip cutting method.

3. Cut a T-joint on the rhizome, and then insert the tooth tip into it. 4, properly fixed with tape.

It is suggested that the growth point of rootstock should be removed before the tip of tooth begins to grow. Pruning: Roses are perennial flowers. In the long growth process, moderate pruning can make plants grow vigorously and maintain beautiful plant shapes.

If the branches are not pruned and allowed to grow and age, the flowers will gradually decrease and the plant shape will be quite ugly. Cut the flower branches of the rose to a length of 1/2, and the incision must be flat and 45 parallel to the axillary buds. In addition, dead branches, clustered branches, diseased branches, old branches and twisted branches should also be cut off, and good ventilation should be maintained to maintain a beautiful plant shape.

The correct pruning methods of roses are: pruning roses after flowering to maintain good plant shape and growth potential; Cut the flowering branches to the length of 1/2, and cut the dead branches, diseased branches, clustered branches and winding branches together; Moderately pruned roses will grow new branches, which will grow buds and bloom again. The general pruning principle is as follows: 1. Fix the clip with sharp scissors, and the trimming position should be 0.6cm above the bud with an angle of 45.

2. The central part of the rose plant should be fully developed and kept in a bottle shape, which can promote air circulation and reduce the occurrence of diseases. 3. Cut off the diseased branches.

4. Cut off any adventitious buds. 5. Cut off the weak branches and restore the original appearance of the plants.

6. Pruning should be done in late winter or early spring, that is, before the growing season. 7. After strong pruning, the number of roses will be less, but the amount of flowers will be huge, while light pruning will spend more and less.

8. The safe limit of pruning is that white appears at the center of the branch. Usually, the brown center indicates dead branches. Pruning of Flowering Period: By May, roses begin to bloom, and water is poured before flowering, but from 10 day before flowering, if watering is controlled, beautiful flowers will definitely bloom.

If the rose is in full bloom, pick that flower early. If the finished flower is left unchecked, it will bear fruit, and nutrients will be absorbed by the fruit, thus delaying the flowering of roses and leading to the weakness of flowers.

Besides, if you let the petals fall to the ground, leave them alone. It will be moldy and cause the rose to get sick, so remove the flower stalk before the petals fall.

For hybrid tea roses with flowers at the stem end, the leaves (5 leaves) should be cut into 1-2 pieces. Cut off the lower leaves, new buds can grow from them, and the second flower will bloom.

Many-flowered varieties cut flower stalks from the roots connecting the next bud. Spring pruning: spring pruning is an operation to make the flowers bloom more beautifully in that year.

If you insist on a beautiful single flower like a hybrid line, you will cut a single flower at a low position (strong cut), but you want to enjoy a multi-flower series with many flowers. You can cut it to 1/2 high pine (weak cut) before pruning. The order of pruning is: first prune the branchlets from the bottom, and also prune the weak branches and old branches that have been dead for more than 2 years.

After cutting off the extra parts, cut the remaining branches short. Roses that bloom all year round are pruned in February in spring, in late August and early September in autumn, and/kloc-0 is pruned twice a year.

Roses that bloom only in one season, such as old roses, are only pruned in spring. Spring pruning

Because it is done in the period when roses are about to grow, even if it is cut quite short, there is no problem. Climbing roses, English roses and other varieties with trees over 2 meters high do not need special pruning. Just cut off the 10-20CM part at the front of the branch.

Autumn pruning: from spring to autumn, the leaves and branches of roses grow densely and the branches and leaves are gradually crowded. If left unchecked, the ventilation conditions will deteriorate, which will easily lead to diseases, so we should be diligent in pruning.

The method of pruning is to cut off the twigs (called "inner branches") facing the inside of the plant from the bottom, and also cut off the withered parts if any. In addition, from the end of August to the beginning of September, the four-season flowering varieties can be pruned in autumn, and the branches can be shortened to 2/3 of the height before pruning. Good buds can be selected at this height, and branches can be cut obliquely at the place where the buds are 5mm upward. The key point is to leave as many leaves as possible. Without leaves, the flower shape will become worse, so pay attention.

Roses on the ground, or varieties that only bloom in spring, only cut off internal branches or dead branches, and do not trim them in autumn. Summer method: In summer, when the sun shines directly on the soil, the temperature will rise a lot and the roses will weaken. Therefore, cover the plant base with bark powder or sphagnum to prevent the soil temperature from rising.

Mulching can not only adjust the soil temperature, but also prevent the soil from drying and splashing when it rains or watering. In addition, in order not to be exposed to direct sunlight, you can hang a net in the direction of direct sunlight from the afternoon, or set up a square grid frame to wrap plants with strong heat resistance in summer.

When planting pots, put the flowerpot in a big circle of pots and make a double pot. In this way, the flowerpot planted with roses will not be exposed to direct sunlight, so the temperature of the pot soil can be prevented from rising. It is also important not to put the flowerpot directly on the concrete.

If the branches and leaves are crowded, the ventilation will become worse, which will easily lead to diseases, so we should be diligent in sorting out crowded places. Overwintering method: In areas where the temperature will not drop below zero in winter, it is not necessary to take special measures to keep out the cold, and it can be covered with tree dander, sphagnum and sphagnum.

How to cut paper flowers is the easiest.

Methods/steps

Prepare the tools needed for paper cutting.

Fold the square paper in half four times according to the crease.

Draw a flower on the paper with a pencil.

Arrange flowers.

Subtract the excess.

Erase the pencil mark with an eraser and unfold it.

Step reading

How to prune roses

To be correct, you are a rose, not a rose. Only when the rose is cut into cut flowers can it be called "rose" according to custom. It should be noted that the pruning of roses is completely different from that of Chinese roses.

The newly bought Chinese rose flowers are not long for many years, so the general family pruning should take into account the immediate flowers and the future growth.

A flowerpot of the same size, with more branches, will become smaller and unsightly. The flowers of the old branches are more and smaller, and the flowers of the new branches are generally bigger.

If you just want it to be more branched, you can cut it between 1-3 leaves under the inverted flower. In winter, you can cut off new branches from 3-7 leaves and open big flowers. (Note that according to the logarithm, the strong can be cut more, and the weak can be cut less. It's just a simple pruning to make it grow better, and it doesn't involve plastic surgery. )

How to prune roses?

Pruning the whole rose pruning can be divided into winter and spring pruning and post-flowering pruning.

Pruning in winter and spring should be carried out after the leaves of roses fall and before germination. Pruning is mainly sparse, and 15- branches are selected for each cluster. If the space is large, it can be appropriately shortened to promote branching and ensure the yield of flowers. For the rose bushes with great growth potential and many old branches, it is necessary to cut them again properly in order to concentrate nutrition, promote the germination of new branches and restore growth.

Pruning should be done after the flowers are harvested. It is mainly used to loosen the dense branches, cross branches and overlapping branches of vigorous and leafy plants, but it should be lightly cut, otherwise it will cause imbalance between the ground and the ground and cause adverse consequences. Pests and Diseases The main pests and diseases of roses are induced disease, black spot disease, powdery mildew, scarab, longicorn beetle, red spider and so on.

Generally, 5 stones of sulfur mixture are sprayed before germination to eliminate overwintering pests and diseases; Spraying 0.5% phoxim to control scarab and weevil in early April; Spraying 0.5% tetramethylphenol and 0. 1.25% dicofol to control red spider in May and June; Spraying 0. 125%-0. 167% bacitracin or 0.5% bordeaux solution for 2-3 times from June to August. At the same time, branches damaged by rust should be cut off in time in spring or growing season, and scarabs, weevils and longicorn larvae should be captured artificially.