Apricots are not dry, especially like light, and their branching ability is weak. Most of the natural growth is natural round-headed trees. Due to the limitation of the nutritional area of potted apricot trees, the modeling is mainly to control the height and width of the tree, and form a short and compact tree shape through the oblique bending of the trunk. Common tree shapes include one main branch curve shape, two main branches antlers shape and natural happy shape. The open trunk height of the three main branches is 20 ~ 30cm, the base angle of the three main branches is 50 ~ 60 degrees, and the angle of the middle part gradually increases to more than 70 degrees. The branches on both sides or behind each main branch are staggered, and the angle of the lower branch group is larger, and the angle decreases as it goes up. In order to make use of the internal space, we can choose inward lateral branches from 1 ~ 2 main branches to occupy the central space. Because of the weak ability of apricot to form branches, the extended branches can be shortened by 2/3 of the total length during the shaping period, so that the vegetative branches can grow and the bare base of the branches can be reduced. The curved trunk bends upward in zigzag, mostly in two layers, and the fruit is mostly at the corner. The antlers of the two main branches are 30cm high, and two 60-degree main branches are planted on them. Branches on the main branch are in the shape of antlers, and side branches with large angles are left on the main branch, which extend to the back or side. Light cutting or slow release promotes the germination of long, medium and short fruit branches, and retracts in time after flowering or fruiting, thus cultivating fruiting branches.

The germination ability of buds on vegetative branches of apricot trees is very different from the branch angle. The vegetative branches with large angles have strong germination ability and can form more long, medium and short fruit branches, but these branches are easy to decline and need to cultivate new branches in a planned way. Pruning apricot trees often adopts the method of "straight out and oblique breeding". Even if the base of the branch group is upright, its branches grow horizontally, and the decline speed of the branch group is related to the number of flowers and fruits. Pruning clustered branches can effectively maintain the branching potential and improve the fruit setting rate. Apricot latent buds have a long life, wounds are easy to heal, and the regeneration effect of big branches is better than that of peaches and cherries. Results Apricot trees with branches shorter than 3 ~ 15 cm have the best fruiting branches, and after plastic surgery, they should be mainly drained, supplemented by short cutting. For moderately growing branches or long fruit branches, unless they are too dense or improperly placed, they are generally lightly cut and lengthened. If it is too long, you can cut off the immature part at the top and let most of the short branches and middle branches bear fruit in the middle and lower parts. For short fruit branches and bouqueted fruit branches, branches that are too dense, too thin and moth-eaten, generally cannot be cut short. In addition to pruning in winter, it is also important to remove buds, buds, cores and twisted tips in summer. The branches on the main branch should be properly thinned when the elongation is 1.5 ~ 20 cm, and the remaining new shoots with bearing branches should be picked and wrung out to enrich their development. If there are overgrown branches near the cut of thick branches or at the corner, it is considered that all useless branches should be removed when the tips are cut around the beginning of May. After entering the full fruit stage, the branches are overstretched under heavy pressure, resulting in too many branches at the top, so the branches should be hung during the growth period, or the shoots should be shortened and updated after fruiting.