Grape frameless cultivation is to make vines grow upright like apple trees through artificial measures, which has the advantages of labor-saving, money-saving and high efficiency. It can increase production by 10% ~ 20%, save management labor by 50% in summer, and also resist 8 ~ 10 gale.

First, choose varieties. It is necessary to choose fine varieties with short internodes, hard branches and vines, strong uprightness and weak secondary branches, such as white feather, Bamite, red rose and Covedinka.

Second, reasonable close planting. High density planting should be adopted. Generally, the spacing between rows and plants can be 2 ~ 2.5× 1 m, with 267 ~ 333 plants per 667 square meters. Planting should be carried out in winter and spring, and sufficient base fertilizer and water should be applied before planting. Third, scientific plastic surgery.

① Insert a "twig column" with a diameter of more than 2 cm and a height of 1.2 ~ 1.5 m beside the seedlings, so that the new grape shoots can grow along the column. When the new shoots grow to 60 cm high, pick the core and thicken the trunk, and cut off the secondary branches in winter. If there are branches and vines at the base, leave a vine batten between the left and right rows, dig it out 40 cm away from the main vine, and tie it to the trunk at a height of 50 ~ 70 cm to prevent it from falling horizontally, and wipe off all the rest.

(2) After the main branches germinate in the second year, three new shoots are left, and the upper two sides are horizontally bound with the left and right adjacent plants to prevent lodging between plants, and at the same time, temporary fruit-bearing parts are cultivated. The new shoots at the top continue to grow vertically, and when they grow to 60 cm high, they are topped and tied to small pillars. (3) In the third year, the permanent fruiting part of the upper layer is cultivated in the same way as in the second year.

④ In the fourth year, the fruiting branches are cultivated in the upper fruiting parts, and the lower fruiting parts are cut off according to the situation.

Fourth, cultivate fruiting branches. Leave a mother branch every 20 cm on the horizontal main vine, and leave two new shoots on each mother branch. Allow new buds to bear fruit. The temporary result part is 60 cm from the ground, and the permanent result part is 120 cm from the ground. Letting the new shoots and ear droop naturally instead of pruning and coring in summer can increase its leaf area, enhance photosynthesis and increase nutrient accumulation, which is beneficial to flower bud differentiation and increase yield. Four or five years later, when the main stem is 4 ~ 5 cm thick, small columns can be removed to form a frame naturally.