Planting techniques of kiwifruit
Selected location
It is best to choose sandy loam or sandy soil in mountainous areas with convenient transportation, abundant sunshine, water source, moderate rainfall and slightly high humidity, or hilly areas with loose soil and rich humus as the garden. After the site is determined, roads, irrigation and drainage systems, fertilizer management rooms, etc. All of them are planned first, and then the ventilation culvert in the planting area is planned.
The main scaffolding methods used in kiwifruit planting are: T-frame, hedge frame, tripod, large shed frame and so on. Large flat-topped scaffolding is often used, and the original small-diameter trees can be used as live piles on the spot, and some replaceable bamboo and wood soil can be added, and concrete piles can be used in key parts. The local frame height is 1.8m, crossed with 10- 12 iron wire. Hmm? Sawtooth network, the line spacing is about 60 cm.
Fertilize soil or land
According to kiwifruit varieties, planned yield and soil fertility, determine the amount of fertilization. Before planting, 2.5 kilograms of fruit-bearing wood fertilizer can be applied to each plant in the pit, and a small amount of fertilizer can be applied to young trees. After that, fertilization is generally carried out three times a year, with base fertilizer 1 time and topdressing twice. After the fruits are harvested, apply the base fertilizer, that is, winter fertilizer, 20kg organic fertilizer per plant, and mixed application of phosphate fertilizer 1.5kg. After germination, apply 1 time topdressing, and apply 2kg compound fertilizer of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium to each plant to enrich spring shoots and fruiting trees. The second time, before the vigorous growth period, fruit and wood fertilizer or compound fertilizer can be applied. Because the root of kiwifruit is fleshy, we should dig a shallow ditch a little far from the root, apply chemical fertilizer, seal the soil and avoid burning the root. Irrigation must be given after fertilization in dry season.
Plastic trimming
The shape of branches depends on the way of scaffolding, so we should make full use of the surface of scaffolding to make branches evenly distributed and achieve the goal of high yield and high quality.
Kiwifruit is divided into winter scissors, summer scissors and male scissors before pruning. Pruning in winter is carried out during the period from defoliation to germination in early spring 1 month, with thinning as the main method and proper cutting. Keep more main vines and fruiting branches and cut off dense branches. Twigs, cross branches and pest branches. Summer pruning is mainly carried out from mid-May to early July, such as sprouting, coring, thinning and binding, and timely erasing the buds on the trunk to arrange space for the branches and vines. Male plants are pruned after flowering in May-June. Leave 3-4 branches per plant, and each branch has 4-6 buds. When the new branch length is 1 m, pick the core.
Generally, fruit is thinned in the field 1 month after flowering. Leave intermediate fruit and thinning fruit, reaching 1 fruit every 4-5 leaves. Generally, there are 1-2 fruits per 20 cm branch, and 5-6 fruits per 20-25 cm weak branch. 50 kg per plant, leaving 500-600 fruits.
Eliminate pests and diseases
The main diseases that harm kiwifruit are anthracnose, root-knot nematode, damping-off, damping-off, root rot and fruit soft rot. Among them, anthracnose not only harms stems and leaves, but also harms fruits. Spraying 800 times carbendazim for 2-3 times in germination period can prevent and control it. The management of fertilizer and water should be strengthened, and methyl isofenphos or 30% carbofuran toxic soil should be used to control root-knot nematode disease.
The main pests of kiwifruit are mulberry Bai Dun scale, Penang comb scale, cutworm, scarab, leafhopper, fruit sucking moth and so on. The overwintering insects of scale insects are controlled by omethoate or 1500-2000 times killing liquid; Stir-fried bran for underground pests and carbofuran are mixed and applied to the ground according to the ratio of10:1. For scarabs, trichlorfon or malathion 1000 times solution is sprayed in the evening from late March to early April, or pyrethroid insecticides are used. Use 50% phoxim EC or 1000 times cartap to control cicada. Fruit-sucking moths occur in September when the sugar content of the fruit begins to increase, and they come out at night to harm the fruit, causing the fruit to fall or the damaged part to form lumps. Bagging, dark light or sweet and sour solution (1: 1) can be used for trapping and killing, or mirex can be sprayed 65438 times every 10- 15 days.
Cultivation techniques of kiwifruit
First, choose a garden
1. Geographical location To establish a kiwifruit production base, you should choose a place with convenient water sources and transportation. Especially in mountainous areas with complex terrain, it must be considered that products are transported by road.
2. Altitude and topography Kiwifruit orchards should be built in mountainous areas with high altitude, but should not exceed the altitude of 1000 meters. The hilly land has deep soil layer and good drainage, which is a suitable cultivation area for kiwifruit. But there must be water in the case of high temperature and drought in summer and autumn. Mountain ecological conditions are very suitable, but we should pay attention to the selection of slope, slope direction and slope position. Generally, try to choose gentle slopes or flat areas below 15 degrees. It is advisable to choose a sunny shelter slope in the south or southeast direction and avoid choosing the north direction. It is not advisable to choose the top of the mountain or other tuyeres (especially the wind direction in the growing season) to build gardens.
3. The soil should be a slightly acidic soil with deep soil layer, loose and fertile soil, good drainage performance and appropriate water holding capacity. Avoid planting in cohesive soil.
Second, establish windbreaks.
Kiwifruit has poor wind resistance, and strong winds in spring often break new shoots and damage leaves and buds; In summer, the dry hot wind reduces the air humidity, which makes a lot of soil moisture evaporate and dry, leaves scorch and growth is blocked; The autumn gale scratches the fruit and affects the commodity value. Therefore, windbreaks should be built before the garden is built.
The tree species of windbreak forest should be Ligustrum lucidum, Cunninghamia lanceolata, Pinus elliottii, Cryptomeria fortunei, Metasequoia glyptostroboides, poplar, camphor tree, loquat, holly and bitter orange. In April-May, evergreen trees should be mainly used to prevent wind damage. The main forest belt should be set in the windward direction, and the mountainous area is at the watershed behind the mountain and the edge of the orchard. The wind-folding belt is built on the edge of the branch road and irrigation ditch in the park. At least 4 rows should be planted in the back mountain forest belt and the periphery of the orchard, and 1 ~ 2 rows should be planted in the windbreak belt in the garden. Within the forest belt, the tree spacing is 2m ~ 3m, the plant spacing is 1m ~ 1.5m, and the shrub density is doubled.
In addition, the distance between the main forest belt and the nearest kiwifruit plant should be more than 10 meter, and the distance between the windbreak belt and kiwifruit should be 4 ~ 5 meters. Dig a 1 isolation ditch between the forest belt and kiwifruit to prevent the roots from going deep into the orchard and affecting the growth of kiwifruit plants. In a small garden, several rows of windbreaks can be planted on the windward side of the orchard periphery. At the same time, in order to improve the windbreak effect, two rows of fast-growing tree species such as Italian poplar and Chinese white poplar can be planted inside or outside the permanent windbreak belt, 1 m ~ 2 m? Plant in the form of 2-3 meters to quickly form a temporary windbreak belt.
Third, planting
1. Selection and configuration of pollinated varieties. Kiwifruit is a dioecious fruit tree, so it should be equipped with corresponding male pollination varieties when planting. The flowering period of male varieties should be the same as that of female varieties or slightly earlier than that of female varieties 1 ~ 3 days, and their pollination compatibility is good. At the same time, pollinated varieties should have large flowers, large pollen, high pollen germination rate and long flowering period, at least covering the flowering period of supporting female varieties. Generally, the ratio of male to female plants is 8∶ 1, but recent research results show that increasing the ratio of male plants appropriately is beneficial to improve the weight, quality and flavor of single fruit. So in many places, the ratio of male to female has increased to 5 ~ 6: 1.
2. Planting density Planting density generally depends on the framework, land conditions and cultivation management level. Where the soil is poor and the fertility is poor, the density can be higher; ? t？ The density of small T-shed is higher than that of large flat ceiling. Hedge frame is more than 3 meters? Plant spacing is 4 meters, t? Frame 3 meters to 4 meters? 4 meters to 5 meters spacing, flat-topped scaffolding more than 4 meters? Plant spacing of 4-5m.
3. Planting time and method Kiwifruit can be planted from defoliation to germination in early spring, and it is better to plant it as soon as possible after defoliation, and the planting time in early spring should not be later than the end of February. The root system of kiwifruit is mainly fleshy lateral root, which is not resistant to trampling. Therefore, when planting, we should fill the rhizosphere with loose and fine topsoil and gently water the root with our feet. Cut it again after planting, leaving 3 ~ 5 full buds. Insert a small bamboo pole 1 root length about 1 m next to the seedlings to fix the seedlings and avoid wind folding.
4. Management after planting After planting kiwifruit, it is necessary to keep the tree tray moist and the soil fertile, prevent waterlogging and drought, improve the survival rate and increase the growth. Combined with drought-resistant irrigation, appropriate topdressing in stages. Generally, from 2 months after planting, each plant is irrigated with 50 g ~ 100 g of urea and 0 ~ 20 kg of water. In the dry season of summer and autumn, cover the tree tray with water to prevent drought. In addition, pay attention to leave more lateral branches to raise roots and promote more buds. During the growth period, it is not advisable to smear buds excessively to control the crown, and try to leave more middle and lower branches, increase the total leaf area, promote roots and shoots, and bear fruit early.
Fourth, the vertical frame.
Kiwi is a vine fruit tree. If it grows naturally, it is easy to climb and seriously entangle, which not only affects the normal growth results, but also is not convenient for field management. Therefore, it is necessary to establish a framework suitable for its vine growth and adopt corresponding pruning techniques. Scaffolding is the main part of kiwifruit orchard, so it should be set up as soon as possible before planting, otherwise it will affect the growth and shape of the plant. There are many kinds of kiwifruit racks, such as hedge racks, large horizontal scaffolding racks, and? t？ Small scaffolding and simple scaffolding are more common.
1. The single-wall fence is similar to the grape fence, and a column is erected every 3-5 meters along the line, with a height of 2.6-2.8 meters and a buried depth of 0.8 meters. Pull 2 ~ 3 threads on the column, with the 1 thread 60 cm ~ 80 cm from the ground and the same distance, and tie the kiwi branches to the vertical frame surface. 6 ~ 8 galvanized iron wire can be used for wire drawing.
2. The height of large transverse shed 1.8m ~ 2m, and the column spacing is 3m? Five meters, four meters? Five meters, five meters? 5 meters or 3 meters? 6 meters, strip steel, triangle iron (6 cm? 6 cm) or 2 pieces 10 cm? 2.5 cm laminated wooden boards are used to connect columns as beams. Pull a 6 ~ 8 iron wire every 60 cm ~ 90 cm on the shed surface to form a grid or unidirectional horizontal shape, and fix the iron wire on the beam.
3.？ t？ The height of the above-ground part of the T-shed is 1.8m, with a single row of columns, one column is set every 4m ~ 6m, and one column is erected at the top. t？ I-beam, length 1.5m ~ 2m. Pull the horizontal line on the beam three times. To overcome this? t？ The disadvantage of the frame is that it is not wind-resistant, which can make ordinary? t？ Is the frame improved to a water drop type? t？ Rack or wing? t？ Frame.
4. Simple scaffolding mountain orchards can use local bamboo poles and miscellaneous trees. As scaffold material, a simple scaffold is built by a factory. At present, Ding cultivated in Qiao culture is the most widely used one. This kind of frame is very similar to that planted by cowpea farmers, each tree 1 frame. Select 1 bamboo pole with root length of 2.5m ~ 3m and diameter of 4cm ~ 5cm to be inserted into the soil along the trunk, and the trunk is directly tied to the bamboo pole. Three bamboo poles with a length of 2m ~ 2.5m and a diameter of 2.5cm ~ 3cm are selected as pillars, the lower ends of which are obliquely inserted into the soil about 80cm away from the central pillar to form a regular triangle, and the upper ends are tied tightly with the central pillar with iron wires. Then three bamboo poles with a diameter of about 2 cm and a length of about 1.2 m are tied up about 80 cm from the ground and connected to form a horizontal triangle to support the 1 fruit layer and reinforce the frame.
In the above framework, from the comprehensive effect, use? t？ Small sheds and large horizontal sheds are ideal. What kind of scaffolding should be adopted should be considered comprehensively according to the topography of the orchard, the source of scaffolding materials and economic conditions. Where the terrain is flat and the economic conditions are good, do you choose horizontal scaffolding or not? t？ Frame. Where the economic conditions are poor, the simple framework can be used at the beginning of the garden construction, and then gradually changed to? t？ T-frame or horizontal scaffold. Is it good to build a garden in hilly and mountainous areas? t？ Shape frame, if economic conditions do not allow, you can use simple frame. Delicious kiwifruit varieties generally grow vigorously, mostly medium-long fruit branches, so horizontal scaffolding and? t？ Frame. No matter what kind of frame, plants should be planted in the center between columns, so that branches can be evenly distributed on the surface of the frame, and trunk can also play a supporting role in adulthood. In addition, all kinds of frame-type side columns should be reinforced to prevent the columns from being skewed.
Verb (abbreviation for verb) fertilization
1. After fertilization, 1 ~ 2 young trees are planted, and the roots are few and tender, and the distribution is shallow, so it is appropriate to apply fertilizer several times. General 1 1 base fertilizer 1 time in autumn, 50 kg of decomposed manure or 0.5 kg ~ 1 kg of cake fertilizer per plant, and fertilization in ring ditches or furrows. The former takes the trunk as the center, and digs a 1 annular ditch about 60 cm away from the trunk, with a depth of 40 cm ~ 50 cm and a width of 20 cm ~ 30 cm, and covers the soil after applying uniform mixed fertilizer. The furrow fertilization is to dig a 1 fertilization ditch with a depth of 40 cm ~ 50 cm and a width of 20 cm ~ 30 cm on both sides about 60 cm away from the trunk, and cover the soil after applying the evenly mixed fertilizer. In February-July before high temperature and drought, the quick-acting fertilizer was applied 3-4 times, the first time before and after germination in late February, and every 25-30 days/kloc-0 times thereafter. Top dressing mainly uses urea or compound fertilizer, and 300 grams of urea or 0.5 kilograms of compound fertilizer is applied to each plant throughout the year. Use spot application or tree tray to spread.
2. Fertilization of adult fruit trees
① base fertilizer. Organic fertilizers such as farmyard manure are mainly used, supplemented by a certain amount of available nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers. Fertilization period is generally from the end of autumn after fruit picking to the end of autumn before defoliation. Early application is recommended, and it should be applied immediately after fruit picking. Apply 50 kg of manure to each base fertilizer, add 0.5 kg of compound fertilizer and 1 kg ~ 1.5 kg of calcium superphosphate.
② Germination fertilizer. Generally, it is carried out from the beginning of bleeding period to before germination, and the quick-acting nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium compound fertilizer is better, supplemented by dilute feces and urine. 0.5 kg ~ 1 kg compound fertilizer or 20 kg ~ 30 kg decomposed human excrement and urine+10g sea elf root fertilizer can be applied.
③ Strong fruit and fertilizer. Strong fruit fertilizer should be applied again. Generally, it is applied within 1 month after flowering. At the same time, combined with multiple foliar topdressing. The compound fertilizer with phosphorus and potassium as the main fertilizer should be applied to strong fruit, and 1 kg ~ 1.5kg/ plant or 1kg decomposed cake and 0.5 kg ~ 1 kg potassium chloride fertilizer can be applied. The foliar fertilizer can be sprayed with 300-fold solution of sea elf functional microelement fertilizer, 0.3% ~ 0.4% of phosphorus and potassium source, 0.3% ~ 0.5% of urea, 0.3% ~ 1% of calcium superphosphate leaching solution, 0.05% ~ 0. 1% of ferrous sulfate, etc. When there are many fruits but the trees are not strong, it is advisable to topdressing Zhuangguo fertilizer in June, except in the middle and late May, so as to further promote fruit hypertrophy and full new shoots. Its fertilization amount is the same as last time. In terms of fertilization methods, for closed orchards, especially for horizontal shed orchards, because the root system has covered the whole orchard, it is appropriate to combine intertillage application and apply it after the soil is wet.
VI. Water Resources Management
Kiwifruit is afraid of drought and is not tolerant of waterlogging, so water management is particularly important. ? Meiyu period? Flood prevention and drought prevention of drainage in summer and autumn are the key to management.
There is more rain in Hunan in spring, which is easy to waterlogging, but waterlogging, especially dark waterlogging, is often ignored in production. Kiwifruit waterlogging will cause deciduous leaves and dead seedlings and trees in a few days. Therefore, in the rainy season, it is necessary to clean ditches and drain water in time so that any stains can be discharged immediately.
High temperature and drought in summer and autumn have a great influence on kiwifruit. Lack of water scorched the leaves, scorched the fruits, dropped the leaves and reduced the flowers in the second year. Irrigation must be done in time in dry season. Under normal circumstances, if the temperature keeps above 35℃ and the leaves begin to show signs of wilting, water them immediately. In midsummer, irrigation needs 1 time every 5 days or so.
At the same time, covering soil and preserving water has obvious effect on drought resistance. Surface mulching can not only effectively resist drought and preserve water, but also promote the vigorous growth of roots. After the plastic film decays, it is also a good fertilizer for kiwifruit absorption and utilization. The coverage range can be tree disk coverage, row band coverage and full garden coverage. In production, tree disk mulching is the main method. If possible, the whole garden should be covered, and the effect of water conservation and drought prevention is better. Covering materials include straw, green manure and green grass. The covering thickness is generally 10 cm ~ 20 cm, and more than 20 cm is the best. What is the coverage? Meiyu? The season will end and finish before the summer heat and drought, usually in the first half of June. When covering, pay attention to the proper distance between the cover and the trunk of kiwifruit to prevent the damage of pests and diseases to the trunk.
Seven, plastic pruning
1. Plastic Surgery
(1) single-wall hedge frame modeling. When the new shoots of young trees grow to 1 m ~ 1.5 m, the bent branches are tied horizontally to one side of the first layer of iron wire as one layer and one arm. After bending branches, polar 1 ~ 2 buds germinate and produce secondary buds. When the length is about 1 m, choose one of the bent branches and tie it horizontally on the other side of the first layer of iron wire as the other arm.
②? t？ Body shaping. Use a single luggage shelf. After the seedlings are planted, cut them short from the full buds. When the new shoots grow to a certain height, the most vigorous upright shoots are selected as the main branches, and the other branches are reserved as auxiliary branches, so that they can grow naturally without tying. At the same time, insert a bamboo pole next to the seedlings as a temporary pillar and tie the selected main tree to it. When the trunk grows to the central wire, the core is removed to promote branching, and two healthy branches closest to the central wire are selected to extend to both sides along the central wire as the main branches for culture.
prune
(1) winter pruning. It is usually carried out in early spring (65438+mid-late February to early February) after defoliation and before bleeding point. It is mainly the regeneration of fruiting parent branches, and the annual regeneration amount should be controlled at around 1/3. Pruning methods are: thinning dead branches, pests and diseases branches, thinning branches, dense branches, cross branches, overlapping branches, rhizosphere sprouting branches with no use value, undergrown vegetative branches and their secondary branches. Results according to the growth potential, the mother branch was cut off properly. Generally, the strong and lush mother branches are lightly cut to leave more buds, about 40 cm to 60 cm; Moderate pruning or light and heavy combination of medium-sized mother branches, cutting 20 cm to 30 cm; Then cut off a few buds from the fine mother branch, leaving 15 cm ~ 20 cm.
② Pruning in summer. It is mainly carried out in the vigorous growth period from May to August, and the pruning amount is less than that in winter. Generally, it is carried out two or three times a year, 1 time after flowering, and the second time is carried out in mid-June. The main work is: wiping buds. When the buds just germinate, the useless latent buds germinated on the trunk and main vine are erased from the improperly located or too dense buds; Generally, twins or triple embryo bud only have 1 bud. Sparse tips. When the inflorescence can be identified, the unnecessary vegetative branches and tendrils in inappropriate positions should be thinned out first, and then the thin fruiting branches, disease and insect branches and dense branches should be thinned out. Shortcut. For long branches that need to be regenerated, only 2 ~ 3 buds at the base are cut short when thinning branches, so that the remaining buds form two well-developed branches in the same year. Cut off the part where the new tip begins to curl and wrap and the part beyond the scope of the corresponding frame. After the fruit is basically formed (about the first half of July), the last fruiting part of the long fruit branch remains 1 ~ 2 knots. Pick your heart. Before flowering 10 day to the beginning of flowering, picking vigorous fruit branches from 6 nodes to 7 nodes above the inflorescence; The vegetative branches were picked from 10 to 12. After coring, only 1 auxiliary tips are left at the top of the new tip, and all the others are erased. Leave 2 ~ 3 leaves for each remaining secondary branch and repeat coring. If the position of the auxiliary pin exceeds the proper space, it needs to be shrunk.
③ Pruning of male plants. Mainly after withering, the mother branch retracts at flowering stage and the crown is cleared. At the same time, the flower branches near the main branches are selected to be shorter, and 50 cm to 60 cm are cut off, and the secondary branches on them are continuously shorter, so that the length of the whole flower branch is controlled at 75 cm to 80 cm. Except for the vegetative branches reserved for regeneration, all vegetative branches should be thinned out.
Eight, the main pest control
1. The main diseases and their control include anthracnose, black spot (scab) and so on, and corresponding control methods can be taken to prevent and control them in time.
2. Main pests and their control
(1) Scarab. Its eating habits are miscellaneous, and its larvae are called grubs (commonly known as soil silkworms), which eat the roots of kiwifruit seedlings in the soil. Adults often cluster and eat young leaves, buds and flowers during germination and flowering, resulting in irregular nicks and holes. The surface of the damaged fruit is slightly convex and brown scabby, and the damaged pulp becomes thick green hard spots. Control method: remove weeds around nursery and orchard; Before grubs or scarabs enter the deep soil layer for wintering, or when they rise to the surface soil after wintering, intertillage in time, and combine insect picking during ploughing; Using the fake death and phototaxis of adult scarab, the branches are knocked out and killed or trapped by blue light; Before flowering, sprinkle 4% Ma Di powder or 2% cartap powder (0.25 kg/plant) around the plants and plough the soil; It is better to spray 2000 times of 50% fenthion emulsion or 2000 times of 80% malathion emulsion on the crown 3 days before flowering or in bud stage, and spray it again every 10 days or so.
(2) scale insects. If nymph is used to suck the juice of branches and leaves, it will often be clustered and fixed on the branches. In severe cases, uneven scales will be formed on the surface of branches, which will weaken the tree and even lead to the death of branches or the whole tree. Prevention and control methods: strengthen quarantine; Brush off insects on branches and vines with a hard brush or a fine wire brush, cut off severely damaged branches, scrape off the old skin at the base of the trunk in combination with winter scissors, and apply insect-proof glue; Spraying 1000 times 50% marathon emulsion ③ leaf beetle and leaf cicada in nymphae stage (from mid-April to mid-late May). Leaf beetle mainly feeds on the cortex of kiwifruit leaves, petioles and shoots by adults; Cicadas mainly use nymphs to suck the juice of new buds and young leaves. Leaf beetle began to do sporadic damage in late April, leaf cicada began to climb trees in the middle and late March, and the peak period of damage was June-July. Prevention and control methods: combined with garden cleaning, egg scraping and incineration; Artificial killing of leaf beetle adults; From late April to early June, the canopy was sprayed with 2.5% deltamethrin for 2000 times.