Pitaya is a perennial climbing succulent plant with rich nutrition and unique functions. It contains plant albumin, anthocyanin, rich vitamins and water-soluble dietary fiber, which are rare in general plants. The following is the planting video of potted pitaya I carefully arranged for you. Let's take a look. Planting video of potted pitaya
1 Characteristics
From the observation of plant morphology and physiology, it is different from traditional fruit trees, flowers and vegetables, and it is a combination of the three. The leaves have basically degenerated, and the axillary buds have also evolved into thorns. The stems are green and triangular, and bear the function of photosynthesis. Unless they are buried underground, hidden for a long time or adapted to stress resistance, the plants are generally not lignified in large quantities. The sharpness of edges and corners, the distance between thorns, the number of thorns and the degree of stem distortion vary according to varieties and nutritional status. Inside the stem are parenchyma cells full of viscous liquid, which can absorb a lot of water.
The main roots of pitaya are few and short, and a large number of lateral roots are branched, and new branches are generated on the lateral roots. Adventitious roots can germinate in both trunk and lateral branches. The roots mainly spread horizontally and distributed in the surface layer of soil.
pitaya can blossom and bear fruit in 8-12 months after planting, with buds appearing at the beginning of May and ending at the end of October every year. Flowers are born in the middle and top of branches, which can be opened at the same time. The corolla is beautiful and huge, with a diameter of about 25cm, milky white, generally 3 ~ 5 cm long and fragrant. The fruit of pitaya is oval, with a diameter of 1 ~ 12 cm, bright red skin and golden scales. The fruit-bearing period is more than half a year, and the bud appears until the fruit is ripe for about 5 ~ 55 days. Ripe fruit will not fall off naturally after more than 3 days on the tree. The weight of a single fruit is about 5g, and the maximum can reach 9g g. According to different varieties, the pulp is white, yellow and red. The seeds are small, abundant and soft, which is an important component of the special flavor of pitaya. The meat is tender and smooth, cool and refreshing, and tastes sweet. Among them, the variety of red meat is particularly prominent, with sugar content of more than 15%, and the taste is sweet but not greasy, which has great development prospects. The seeds are small, the buds are small and the seedlings are thin. Therefore, in production, seeds are generally not used to raise seedlings, and asexual reproduction is the main method.
2 Potting techniques
2.1 Selection of pots and preparation of culture soil Pitaya is a shallow-rooted plant, and it is not necessary to change pots in the process of cultivation, and clay pots with a diameter of about 35cm, wooden boxes and other containers with good water permeability and air permeability can be used. It is best not to use plastic pots or porcelain pots. Before planting, the pots must be disinfected, and the new clay pots can be soaked in clear water for several hours, so that the dirty gas in the pores on the pot wall can be discharged, which is beneficial to the normal growth of roots.
The culture soil should be loose, breathable, well drained, neutral or slightly acidic, and alkaline soil is not preferred. Family potted plants can be self-prepared with culture soil: 6 parts of humus soil, 2 parts of manure soil and 2 parts of coarse river sand, and stirred evenly.
2.2 Potted pitaya in the upper pot should be cuttage seedlings with roots and sprouting new branches. First, put two pieces of staggered broken mud tiles on the hole at the bottom of the basin, and then put a layer of pebbles or coarse sand with a thickness of 3 ~ 5 cm at the bottom of the basin as the drainage layer. Then put the prepared culture soil into half pots, and pile up two steamed bread-shaped mounds side by side at the center of the pot soil, and put two seedlings on the mounds, with the spacing between the plants not exceeding 5cm, and make the roots of the seedlings scattered around the mounds. Then insert a stick between the two seedlings and tie them together. At this time, it is necessary to adjust the direction of the seedlings so that the sunny side of the seedlings faces south (the triangular stems of pitaya are divided into yin and yang, the two widest, largest angle and slightly lighter colors are the cloudy side, and the ribbed side is the sunny side). Then cultivate the soil to the edge of the flowerpot 3cm, gently press the soil around the plant by hand, and finally water it once. After 1 week's delay, move to the balcony, with the sunny side facing south.
2.3 water and fertilizer management pitaya is a drought-tolerant plant, and it can grow normally when the relative water content of soil reaches 7% ~ 8%. But the waterlogging tolerance is poor, such as long-term water accumulation in the roots will rot the roots. Water can be poured once a week, requiring thorough watering. When applying fertilizer, we must adhere to the principle of giving priority to organic fertilizer, supplemented by chemical fertilizer. Half a month before flowering, organic liquid fertilizer containing phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be topdressing once. After entering the fruiting period, topdressing should be done once every 15 ~ 2 days. There are many topdressing methods, so special attention should be paid not to damage the roots, and irrigation topdressing is the main method.
2.4 temperature requires that the optimum growth temperature range of pitaya is 25 ~ 35℃, and it will stop growing when it is below 1℃ and above 38℃, so as to resist stress with the unique temporary dormancy of plants. Low temperature below 5℃ may cause freezing injury, and buds, shoots and even some mature branches can be frostbitten or frozen to death. Although pitaya is a sunny plant, it should be properly shaded at noon when the sun is too strong in summer.
2.5 Pitaya can germinate and grow rapidly after 15 ~ 2 days after plastic pruning. In the process of growth, many buds will breed, forming disorderly lateral branches. It is necessary to remove the new lateral buds from the stem at any time, only keep the terminal buds, and promote the growth. When the plant height is about 1m, cut off the stem tip about 3cm long at the top, so as to make the lateral branches appear at the top, and leave 4 lateral branches. When the lateral branches at the top end are about 5cm long, insert four bamboo poles with a length of about 1m around the pot edge, tie a beam at the top of the bamboo poles, and tie the lateral branches to the beam to make them stretch flat or droop naturally. When the lateral branches exceed 8cm, the stem tip should be cut off by about 3cm to reduce nutrient consumption, promote flower bud differentiation and blossom and bear fruit early. Flowers should be thinned in time, and no more than 2 flower buds should be left on each side branch, and only 1 flower should be left to bear fruit.
2.6 pest control pitaya rarely suffers from pests and diseases, and snails and ants will bite tender stem tips or fruits in seedlings and rainy seasons. It can be poisoned by spraying lime and spraying ant spirit, and the effect is good. Improper fertilization or mechanical damage will lead to purulent ulceration of the stems of individual plants. Scrape the ulcerated parts in time with bamboo pieces (without damaging the stems), expose fresh tissues, let them be fully exposed to the sun, and inhibit the spread of the disease. When the fruit is ripe, Drosophila often lays eggs in the epidermis of the fruit, causing fruit cracking and rotten fruit. The prevention and control methods are to hang fly-sticky paper on branches to trap and kill adult flies, or to use biological pesticides? Thousands of worms? 8 times liquid spray.
2.7 the pitaya can be harvested when the peel turns red and shiny. When harvesting, use the fruit scissors to cut the fruit stalks close to the branches, and it is best to keep a section of the fruit stalks to reduce the nutrient consumption of the fruits during storage and transportation. After harvesting, it can be stored in a fruit basket for more than 15 days at room temperature, and it can be extended to more than 2 months if it is stored in a fresh-keeping warehouse.
2.8 overwintering management in November, basal fertilizer was applied after the fruits were harvested. Dig up the soil around the inner side of the basin to a depth of about 1cm with a spatula, pile the soil at the root, then apply organic fertilizer mixed with manure and chicken manure, then restore the soil and water it once to prepare for winter.
in most places in the north, it is necessary to move indoors for the winter. Can be placed on the sunny windowsill. Do not fertilize during the winter, and control watering. Generally, they leave the room after mid-May. After leaving the room, they will cut off the side branches that have borne fruit, so as to promote the emergence of new branches and lay the foundation for early flowering and fruiting. Pot cultivation of pitaya requires
temperature:
control at 25 degrees, which is the germination temperature of pitaya.
Soil:
To plant pitaya, we must first find some neutral or slightly acidic soil, which must be loose and breathable, and alkaline soil is not conducive to cultivation. We can also make our own culture soil, which can be mixed with humus soil, manure soil and coarse river sand in a ratio of 6: 1: 1.
watering:
If there is no bottom hole in the basin, don't water it directly with a kettle to avoid over watering, just spray water with a watering can once every 2-3 days.
Selection of pots:
Pitaya is a shallow-rooted plant. Prepare a clay pot with a drainage hole at the bottom. Other flowerpots are also ok, as long as they are ventilated. The basin must be cleaned before use, in case the polluted air in the basin affects the growth of pitaya.
Flowering period:
The flowering period of pitaya is long, because many flowers are large, so the demand for nutrition is also high. In addition to adding fertilizer and water, organic liquid fertilizer containing phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be applied once every 5-7 days before flowering.
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