1. Garden construction
(1) Garden selection
1. The grape Fujiminori, commonly known as "Ping-pong grape", is suitable in all parts of the country. On barren hills, floodplains and scattered land, all can be planted. The place with large planting area should be selected: close to the consumer market and convenient transportation.
2. Topography and topography
The slope of the mountain is less than 15 degrees, and the groundwater level in the plain is below .8 meters. Avoid low border fields to build gardens, and choose plots with relatively high terrain and convenient irrigation and drainage. Grapes are light fruit trees, so it is advisable to choose the sunny south slope.
3. Soil and water source
have strong adaptability to soil, and can be planted except heavy saline-alkali soil, but sandy loam and loam with a large amount of organic matter with a P value of 5.5-7 are the most suitable. Red and yellow soil tombs and sandy land gardens can only be planted after soil improvement. The location of water source should also be considered when choosing the garden, so as to ensure that dry irrigation and waterlogging can be discharged.
(II) Planting specifications
1. Planting density
15-18 plants per 667 square meters.
2. Planting rack
The suitable racks for Fujiminori grape are hedge rack and three-dimensional rack, especially the three-dimensional rack.
(1) Three-dimensional frame, with plant spacing of 1.3-1.5 meters and row spacing of 4-5 meters, and every two rows are combined, and the distance between the combinations is 1.5 meters. Three-dimensional frames are flat-topped and stacked. The height of the flat-topped frame is 1.8-2 meters. The height of the cascade front frame is 2.2-2.4m, and the height of the rear frame is 1.5-1.8m.. Within 3-4 years after planting, it will bear fruit with hedge frame, and then it will form three-dimensional fruit with hedge frame and shed frame. The advantages of three-dimensional frame are: it has the comprehensive advantages of shed frame and hedge frame, early fruiting, large space nutrition area and high yield per unit area.
(2) hedge frame, the frame surface is 1.8-2 meters high, the row spacing is 2.25-2.5 meters, and the plant spacing is about 1.5 meters. A pillar is erected every 4 meters and 3-4 wires are hung. The advantages are good ventilation, sufficient illumination and convenient cultivation operation.
(3) Scaffolding materials and scaffolding, reinforced concrete columns are used to erect the pillars of the grape trellis, with a thickness of 1 cm X12 cm, a length of 1.4 m x 2.6 m and a buried depth of 6 cm. For example, the side column of the wire should be thickened to 12 cm X14 cm, 3 meters long, inclined outward by 3 degrees, and reinforced with anchor stones. The surface of the scaffolding is arranged in a square shape of about 4 cm with iron wires or bamboo poles.
3. Row direction
The row direction should be consistent with the wind direction all the year round, and the north-south direction is better, which can not only improve the ventilation conditions, but also reduce the harm of wind.
(3) Planting
1. Planting time
Fujiminori grapes can be planted in spring and autumn, and most of them are planted in spring due to agricultural relations. It is advisable to plant in February in spring, so when the ground temperature rises, the grape roots begin to move and the bud eyes are about to sprout. Spring planting shall not exceed the middle of March at the latest (bud eye germination period); Autumn planting time is about 5 days before defoliation. After planting, water in time to keep the soil moisture, which is beneficial to the recovery of seedlings.
2. Selection and trimming of seedlings
Strong first-class seedlings should be selected as far as possible. Before planting, the main lateral roots and fine roots damaged by machinery should be trimmed properly, but excessive pruning should be avoided to ensure the integrity of seedling roots as much as possible.
3. Digging ditches (holes)
Before planting, it is necessary to do a good job of furrowing, digging ditches, holes, etc., and the garden with sandy soil structure can be planted in holes with a depth of 6-8 cm. It is better to use ditch planting in the garden with sticky texture and red and yellow soil hilly land, because ditch planting can discharge water well and can play the role of drought resistance and drainage. The ditch is 6-8 cm deep and 8-1 cm wide. Topsoil and deep soil taken out during excavation are placed on both sides of the upper part of the ditch. For the garden with thin soil layer and hard bottom soil, it is necessary to use high border planting, which is 25 cm high and 1-12 cm wide.
4. Apply sufficient base fertilizer
667 square meters, 5, kilograms of high-quality organic fertilizer (mainly compost or manure) and 5 kilograms of calcium superphosphate (calcium magnesium phosphate for red and yellow soil structures). The ditch (hole) is planted at the bottom and filled with about 2 cm of garbage or materials such as weeds and straws, and it is practical. Then, the organic fertilizer, phosphate fertilizer and topsoil are mixed evenly or filled in layers, and then they are made into beds with a height of 15 cm and a width of 1 cm to be planted. When applying fertilizer, do not apply fertilizer within 3 cm from the border to avoid burning the roots and killing the seedlings. For high border planting, sufficient organic fertilizer and phosphate fertilizer are first spread on the surface of the soil layer, and then the soil is deeply turned, and then the whole border is 25 cm high and 1-12 cm wide for planting.
5. Planting
Dig holes at fixed points according to the distance for planting, cultivate the soil while planting, and lift the seedlings lightly at the same time, so that the soil can enter the root system as much as possible, then cultivate the soil for compaction, pour water through it, and master the principle of shallow planting, so that the old scissors are exposed to the ground for 3-5 cm.
6. Plastic film mulching after planting
After planting, plastic film mulching can be used to promote grape plants to root early and more, and accelerate the recovery of root growth activities by taking advantage of its advantages of increasing temperature, retaining water and fertilizer.
The application effect of this method is quite remarkable in practice, but in use, it must be done as follows:
(1) After mulching with plastic film, the rhizosphere break should be sealed with soil to prevent rainwater from entering in large quantities. If you can cover the plastic shed on the plastic film, the effect will be better (cover it in rainy days and remove it in sunny days).
(2) The plastic film coverage area of each seedling should be more than 1 square meter, and it is better to cover the whole border, which can play the role of moistening, maintaining fertilizer and water, and can avoid the root rot caused by excessive soil water holding capacity in rainy years.
(3) When the temperature rises too high after the cold air in spring (sometimes the temperature in the plastic film is above 4~C), it is necessary to cover the plastic film where the roots are distributed with weeds and other mulches to avoid scalding the young roots because the optimum temperature for root growth is 22-23 ~ (2).
(4) The film removal time should generally be carried out before the local temperature is relatively stable and there is a short period of high temperature in spring. Do not remove the film before the arrival of cold air, otherwise the new tender roots will be damaged because they can not adapt to the rapid change of temperature, which will affect the healthy growth of grape plants.
7. Precautions
(1) Choose sunny and dry weather for planting. Fujiminori varieties have many fine roots and are clustered. Planting them immediately in rainy days or after rain often affects the normal growth of roots and the survival rate is not high.
(2) The red and yellow loam with heavy viscosity and loam cultivation should be planted with bedding sand and covering sand, which is beneficial to the growth of roots. The method is to put a layer of 1 cm river sand on the bottom of the hole, evenly distribute the roots of the seedlings on the sand, and then put a layer of sand on the roots, so that the roots can't be seen, and then cultivate and compact.
(3) Ditch planting or hole planting should not be used in rainy areas in early spring and summer in southern China, otherwise the ditch or hole planting will become a "water storage tank" when there are a few showers, which will cause the root rot of Rhizopus capillary and affect the survival rate.
2. Pruning in summer
Pruning in summer is very important in grape cultivation. Through this work, we can adjust the relationship between growth and fruit in time, improve ventilation and light transmission conditions, and reduce pests and diseases; It is beneficial to the differentiation of flower buds, promoting the full development of fruit ears and grains, ensuring that branches and fruits can mature in time and fully, and creating good conditions for the fruits of the current year and the next year. Pruning grapes in summer is a highly technical job, and young trees and fruit trees adopt different ways.
(1) Pruning young trees in summer
Doing a good job of pruning young trees in summer in the year of planting can make Fujiminori grapes bear fruit early and ensure a certain high yield in the second year after planting. The specific methods are as follows:
1. Bud smearing time
should be carried out when the quality of buds can be distinguished. Leave the strong to the weak, leave a strong bud close to the ground to grow, and erase the rest.
2. removing tendrils
tendrils are harmful and useless in the case of artificial cultivation, that is, they hinder plant growth and consume nutrients, so they should be removed in time when they are young.
3. coring
when the young tree grows to 8-1 leaves, it is cored for the first time, and after that, except for one secondary shoot at the top to continue to grow, other secondary shoots are erased and cultivated into a main vine. After the vine is fixed, it should be tied in time (but it should not be tied too tightly). When the top secondary shoot grows to 1-12 leaves again, the core is picked for the second time. After this coring, except for one pair of shoots at the top to continue growing, the other pair of shoots are left with 1-2 leaves for repeated coring. However, in the rainy season, we should leave more leaves to pick the core, in order to ease the tree vigor, prevent the winter buds of the main vines from sprouting due to excessive rain, and ensure that they can bear fruit in the next year. After the second coring, when the main vine grows to about 1.6 meters, the coring is carried out again. After that, 2-3 secondary shoots are left at the top, and 4-5 leaves are repeatedly cored. By the beginning of October, all the growing points are completely cored again, thus completing the summer pruning of young trees.
(II) Pruning of fruiting trees in summer
Pruning of fruiting trees in summer includes bud wiping, shoot fixing, coring, tendrils removal and other tasks, with the purpose of saving and concentrating tree nutrients, improving ventilation and light transmission conditions and ensuring high yield and harvest in that year.
1. Bud smearing
The purpose of bud smearing is to ensure that the shelf surface is ventilated and transparent, and the branches, vines, flowers and fruits are fully developed and matured.
(1) time: several times after germination in early April.
(2) Bud smearing method
① All adventitious buds on rhizosphere and old vines should be erased except for regeneration vines and filling gaps. (2) For budding the fruiting mother branch, it is necessary to determine the number of main buds needed for sprouting new shoots according to the thickness of the main vine and the number of new shoots required by the predetermined yield, to erase the weak buds at the base, the upward or downward growing buds and all the auxiliary buds, and to sparse the diseased buds at a certain distance. Only when the fruiting branches germinated by the main buds are insufficient, a part of relatively robust secondary buds are reserved, so as to extract fruiting branches and ensure a certain amount of fruiting. ③ The degree of budding must be properly controlled, and it should not be too heavy at the beginning, otherwise it will cause new shoots to flourish and lead to falling flowers and bearing fruit. Strong trees and young trees can be germinated later, while weak trees and old trees should be germinated earlier.
2. shoot fixing
(1) shoot fixing time, which is divided into two times. The first time inflorescence appears on new shoots, it can be distinguished from fruiting branches and vegetative branches. The second time is carried out 5-7 days before flowering or at the same time with new shoot coring.
(2) The number of fixed shoots is determined according to the expected yield, and a certain proportion of fruiting branches and non-fruiting reserve branches are guaranteed, with more flourishing trees and fewer young trees, and the proportion of fruiting branches is slightly larger than that of reserve branches. The fruiting branches are basically left every 15-2 cm.
(3) shoot fixing method, the first shoot fixing is mainly to remove the vegetative branches, and all the branches that are thin, too dense and inappropriate (dorsal branches and fork branches) and the vegetative branches that are not used for the regeneration of preparatory branches are removed, and the fruiting branches, those used for filling the air and those used for regeneration are reserved. The amount of shoot removal this time accounts for 7%-8% of the total amount of shoot removal.
the amount of the second tip fixing ultimately determines the new tip density on the shelf surface, which makes up for the deficiency of the first tip removal (only accounting for 2%-3%). According to the number of new shoots needed, the ideal fruiting branches and vegetative branches for regeneration are selected, and the fruiting branches with diseases and pests, small ears and unreasonable parts are removed. However, in the year when the inflorescence number is insufficient, all the fruiting branches should be kept as soon as they see flowers to ensure the yield.
3. the main shoot is cored
the purpose of coring is to avoid waste and concentrate nutrients for the growth and development of flowers and fruits and the accumulation of nutrients in trees.
(1) coring time: the coring of fruiting branches is conducted one week before flowering, and the preparation of branches is conducted from the end of May to the end of June.
(2) coring method
① The coring of fruiting branches depends on the growth potential, and 6-9 leaves are left above the ear. In principle, the moderate branch leaves 6-7 leaves and the strong branch leaves 8-9 leaves. (2) Prepare branches for coring, except for extending branches, generally leave 8-1 leaves for coring. The coring of main spreading long branches can be determined according to specific requirements.
4. treatment of secondary shoots
except that 1-2 secondary shoots at the top of the secondary shoots leave 3-4 leaves for repeated coring, all the other secondary shoots are treated by the method of "leaving one to die" or "leaving two to die". Remove the secondary shoots from the core as soon as possible. The degree of secondary shoot treatment should meet the requirement of ensuring the leaf-fruit ratio of Fujiminori grape of 3: 1.
5. Tie vines
Tie vines must be carried out according to the requirements of plastic surgery. After pruning in winter, it is necessary to tie the vines. Later, with the growth of new shoots, the vines will be tied continuously. The method of tying the vines adopts the "8" buckle, which should not be too tight to avoid twisting. The new shoots on the preparatory branches are mainly tied to promote growth, and the new shoots on the mother branches after single branch regeneration on the shelf surface should be tied vertically at the base of the new shoots as regeneration branches, except that the fruit-bearing branches are tilted.
6. removing tendrils
during the whole grape growth period, all tendrils should be removed in time in combination with other cultivation management to save nutrients.
3. Pruning in winter
(1) Pruning time
Like other grapes, Fujiminori grapes are pruned in winter from the defoliation to the next year's bleeding period, especially from December to January. If it is too early, it will affect the nutrient accumulation of trees, and if it is too late, it will cause a lot of bleeding, leading to plant weakness and affect flowering and fruiting.
(II) Pruning criteria for branches
1. Short-shoot pruning
Cut 1-3 sections from the base.
2. Trim the middle tip
Cut off 4-7 sections.
3. Long tip pruning
Cut off 8-12 knots.
(3) Pruning methods of different tree ages
1. Planting young trees in winter pruning
Planting young trees in winter pruning should be combined with plastic work. On the basis of pruning in summer, the tree is integrated into a single-tailed dragon trunk. According to the variety characteristics of Fujiminori grape, and in order to ensure a certain yield in the second year, it is better to use the stem shape of Monomanlong in the first year. The length of the cut should be determined according to the thickness of the main vine. For example, when the diameter of the main vine at 2 cm from the ground can reach 1.8 cm and 2. cm (as long as the cultivation management is strengthened in the current year, it can generally reach the standard), when pruning in winter, about 15 full buds are left to cut off the rest. The secondary shoots on the main vine must all be cut off.
2. Tree pruning in the second year of planting
Use the fruiting branches of that year to form a fruiting branch group every 2-25cm. Except that the top fruiting branches are pruned with long or super-long shoots as extension branches, the other fruiting branches are all pruned with short and middle shoots, with middle shoots as the main pruning.
3. Pruning of fruit trees
(1) Pruning principle, the tree shape of fruit trees has been basically formed since the second year, so the principle of pruning in winter is to cut according to production. According to the predetermined yield index, the pruning amount is determined and the reasonable number of bearing branches is arranged.
(2) Pruning method, that is, all the fruiting branches that have been fruited are cut off. Prune the growing branches with short and middle tips, the strong branches with middle tips, and the moderate branches with short tips, as the bearing branches of the following year. Master the principle of cyclic pruning, carry out re-pruning and retraction in a planned and purposeful way, re-cultivate the fruiting mother branches by using the germination of hidden buds, and control the upward movement of the fruiting parts.
(4) Pruning technology
1. Identification of branch quality
High-quality branches should be fully mature, with short internodes, protruding and uneven nodes, towering buds, large and full shapes, tight scales, brown branches, small pith and round cross section, otherwise they are inferior branches and should not be used as fruiting mother branches.
2. Cutting method
In order to prevent the cut bud from losing water and draining, the mother branch should be cut more than 2 cm away from the bud heel or break the bud and joint at the upper bud eye. When shrinking or thinning, generally leave a 1 cm pile.