2. Grape planting method 1. Transplanting after seedling raising. Cutting, layering and grafting are common methods for grape seedling. Among them, the cutting method is the simplest and most commonly used. Some new methods of grape seedling raising in recent years are introduced as follows. (1) Small plastic bag cutting and plastic film covering method. When the soil temperature is 10 ~ 15℃ in spring, chicken manure, sawdust, river sand and garden soil are mixed and put into small plastic bags with holes at the bottom to make the culture soil about 15cm high. Then soak the grape branches with three buds in clear water for one night, insert them into the culture soil gently, and leave a bud outside the plastic bag at the upper end. Plastic bags are buried in the ground, and when the world is filled with water, they are covered with film until they become seedlings. Compared with open-air cutting, this method has the following advantages: early seedling formation, nearly one month earlier than open-air cutting; The survival rate is high, reaching more than 95%, while the open-air cutting is generally only about 80%, which saves the labor of watering; Covers less land. (2) Green branch cutting. In June, 2-3 semi-lignified branches were cut from the new shoots or secondary branches of that year for green branch cutting. Cutting and management are the same as hardwood cutting, except that 1 green leaves are left at the top of the cutting (half of the leaves can be cut off), and 1 petiole is left at other nodes. (3) Water promotes roots. In June, cut off annual vines (one to two-year vines at the lower end); Insert it into a jar filled with half a bottle of water, cut kraft paper or plastic film into a circle the size of the bottle mouth, and cut it to the center of the circle, then put the vine in the middle of the cut, and then stick it with tape or something; It takes about 15 days to remove the bottles with vines in a warmer room or kitchen, and then move them into fertile and loose soil. Generally, the root can be urged 2-3 times a year, each time about 15 days, and 8- 10 seedlings can be inserted into a jar. With the shelf, a room can cultivate 2000-3000 bottles and 1.6-20000 seedlings. (4) Cutting seedling in the same year and layering seedling in the same year. This is a new technology to improve the propagation coefficient of grape. Strengthen fertilizer and water management after cutting, so that seedlings can fertilize Miao Zhuang. When the seedlings grow to 50 cm, pick the core to strengthen the seedlings and promote the growth of secondary buds, leaving 3-5 secondary buds per plant. In mid-July, when the length of the secondary shoot is about 10 cm, the branch is pressed, and the main shoot is pressed into the soil by 5- 10 cm, and the secondary shoot grows upright on the ground. After the "white dew" and before the "autumn equinox", pick the secondary branches and concentrate nutrients to raise seedlings, so that a secondary branch will grow into a robust grape seedling. That is to say, 3-5 grape seedlings with developed roots, full branches and full buds can be cultivated in one cutting year, and the propagation coefficient is 4-5 times higher than that of ordinary seedling raising methods. (5) Green branch grafting combined with layering. This method obtained a large number of self-rooted seedlings and cuttings of improved varieties in that year. This method was successfully studied by Zhengzhou Fruit Research Institute of China Academy of Agricultural Sciences. They grafted the green branches of grapes on the buds of old vines with flat stubble, and promoted the vigorous growth of new buds of improved scions with the help of the strong roots of old vines. Then the new buds are layered horizontally in autumn, and they can germinate in the same year after taking root. Such an adult grape can provide self-rooted seedlings and cuttings a year, and can plant 68 mu. After seedling raising, keep a small section of the main tip of the improved variety on the old vine with flat stubble, and it can still be used for layered seedling raising or fruit hanging in the next year. (6) air layering of green branches. This method is simple and easy to master, and there is no need to extend seedlings when transplanting new seedlings, which greatly improves the survival rate. Careful management will bear fruit in the second year. The specific method is as follows: when the stem of the fourth section of the new shoot reaches semi-lignification from the base, bind neutral wet soil (other fillers on the right) with a polyethylene film with a thickness of 0.08 mm and a thickness of 30 cm× 30 cm, and bind both ends with a string, with the front end of the new shoot kept upward (tied to the grape vine or mother plant with a string), and bind the new shoot 1 section. Then replenish water into the dressing bag with a syringe every 7- 10 days. 1 month later, when new young roots are found to grow through the film bag, the top dressing bag can be cut from the mother plant from the bottom, weighed immediately and put into a flowerpot or planted directly in the vineyard. 2. After grafting in the pot, transplant cuttings of grape varieties with strong adaptability, cut in the flowerpot in March-April, germinate into seedlings to be used as rootstocks, and graft scions of excellent varieties in the flowerpot in June. After the grafting survives, the new shoot of 1-2 is used as the main vine for cultivation, and when it grows to half a foot high, it is capped. In mid-August, we planted grapes in pots. The forest farm in Chengguan Town, Sanhe County, Hebei Province adopted the above pot grafting method, planted an acre of grapes in August, appropriately increased the planting density, and planted 889 plants per acre. Through reasonable fertilization, watering and scientific and technological management, the fruit was planted in the second year, with an income of 5,500 yuan, and the seed strips sold for 3,000 yuan, with an output value of 8,500 yuan. 3. The grapes are directly inserted in the garden. Grapes are planted directly in the ground to build a garden. In recent years, the practice of transplanting 1000 mu with strips instead of seedlings in Tuanhe Farm in Beijing has proved that this technology is a new way to realize strong seedlings in one year, fruit bearing in two years, high yield in three years and solve the shortage of grape seedlings. Compared with cuttage and transplanting, planting grapes directly in the garden has many advantages. First, the garden is built quickly and takes effect early. In the second year, you can enter the full fruit period and be afraid of management. The yield per mu can reach more than 1500 kg. The second is not to hurt the roots and grow strong. The third is to build gardens to raise seedlings. Excess grape seedlings in a row can be transplanted in or out of the garden to improve efficiency. According to 6000 plants per mu, the cost of planting seedlings should be 180 yuan; By planting gardens directly, about 1 000 seedlings can be sold, which will increase the income of 420 yuan. The specific cultivation techniques are as follows: (1) Preparation before insertion. On the basis of deep ploughing and ripening soil in autumn and winter, the whole garden was plowed again in late March and early April of the following year, then the bed surface was leveled, planting ditches with a width of 2.75m1.2m and a depth of 0.2m were opened in the middle of the planting ditches. The planting pit is 60 cm deep, 60 cm in diameter or 60 cm wide and 60 cm deep. Before planting, 800 kilograms of cattle and sheep manure and 120 kilograms of calcium superphosphate per mu are mixed with several times of topsoil, evenly applied to into the pit or ditch, and irrigated with foot water. Select an annual main shoot with short internodes, small pith, full bud eyes, normal color, robust growth, no pests and diseases, and a thickness of 0.7- 1.0 cm, and cut off 4-6 buds, and the cut should be flat on the top and oblique on the bottom. Soak the rooting site with 50ppm naphthylacetic acid for 24 hours before insertion. Soak in 5 Baume sulfur mixture for 65438 0-2 minutes for disinfection. There are two kinds of cutting methods: hole cutting and strip cutting. Hole insertion, 5 per hole, plant spacing 15cm, 805 per mu; Cutting, plant spacing 18-20cm, per mu 1300- 1400. It is required to expose a bud on the upper part of the cutting. (3) Post-cutting management. In addition to formulating comprehensive cultivation technical measures, management also takes measures such as promoting vitality, promoting fertility, ensuring health, ensuring maturity, preventing grass shortage, preventing pests and diseases, preventing droughts and floods, and preventing manual operation. Management after seedling raising is the same as after transplanting.
3. Grape pruning aims at adjusting the contradiction between growth and fruiting, rationally arranging branches and vines on the shelf surface, which is convenient for management, strong trees and prolonged life, and creates conditions for high yield in successive years. The shaping and pruning of grapes vary from variety to variety. The "Kyoho" tree is extremely strong, so pruning should be light and long. Picking fruiting branches before flowering and pinching off some spikes are helpful to relieve tree vigor, reduce flower and fruit dropping and improve fruit setting rate. For the "Queen of Vineyards" with medium and strong tree potential, pruning short and medium branches is appropriate. 1, plastic tunnel. One is multi-main vine shaping, which is suitable for areas buried underground in winter to prevent cold. Topping is carried out when the seedlings grow to 5-6 leaves in the same year of planting, and 3-4 thick main vines are selected. The second is trunk shaping, that is, only one new tip is left after germination in that year, and a trunk that grows upright is cultivated. 2. Prune in winter. Grapes are pruned in winter, usually about one month after defoliation in autumn to about 20 days before germination in the next year. Pruning too early or too late will cause serious damage to the tree, loss of nutrition and weak growth of the tree. According to the strength of trees and the length of fruiting branches, the principles of grape pruning in winter are: strong vines stay long and weak vines stay short; Leave the upper part long and the lower part short. Generally, it can be divided into three methods: (1) Long vine pruning Long vine pruning generally adopts the method of double vine regeneration. Select a vine under the fruiting vine as the regenerated mother branch, and the regenerated mother branch will keep 2-3 healthy buds, and the fruiting mother vine will keep 6- 12 buds, so that the new branches will blossom and bear fruit in the same year, and update the two new branches extracted from the mother vine (if three new branches are extracted, one branch should be removed). If there is inflorescence on it, it should be removed to reduce nutrient consumption and promote branch tissue enrichment. When pruning in the winter of the following year, all the fruiting vines in that year were cut off, and the new branches on the upper part of the updated mother vines still kept 6- 12 buds as the fruiting mother vines, while the new branches on the lower part kept 2-3 buds as the updated mother vines. When selecting and retaining the updated mother vines, we should pay attention to selecting the parts as close as possible to the trunk to control the rising speed of the resulting parts year by year. (2) Pruning short vines, planting vines about one meter first, and pulling out a plurality of main bearing vines from the main vines. When pruning in winter, each female bearing vine should have 2-3 buds. After bolting in spring, choose the upper branch as the bearing branch and the lower branch as the regeneration branch to prevent it from bearing fruit. When pruning in winter, all the fruiting branches are cut off, and 2-3 buds are left in the updated branches. (3) The method of pruning and renewing the middle vine is basically the same as that of pruning the short vine, but the difference is that there are more buds on the mother branch, usually 4-5 buds. In addition, when pruning, we should cut off dense branches, tender branches, branches of diseases and insect pests and dry dead branches. 3. Plant management during growth. (1) Wipe the bud. In order to make the most economical and effective use of nutrients and make the new buds even and dense, too many unnecessary buds should be erased as soon as possible. (2) prick the tip and remove the tendrils. When the new tip grows to 25~30 cm, it should be tied in time, and the word tying method can prevent the new tip from being injured by friction. When binding shoots, remove tendrils at the same time to support nutrient consumption. (3) Picking new buds and treating secondary buds. Taking the heart from the new bud can inhibit the overgrowth of branches and vines. A large number of secondary buds should be inhibited after enucleation. The secondary branches below the ear can be removed from the base, while the secondary branches above the ear leave two leaves to core, and the secondary branches at the top of the main branches leave several leaves to core the fruit branches, which can limit the vegetative growth, promote the nutrient accumulation of inflorescences and improve the fruit setting rate. Generally, it is advisable to leave 5~9 leaves on the top ear one week before flowering. (4) Pruning of inflorescence and ear. There are often 1~3 inflorescences on a fruiting branch, so it is advisable to leave a well-developed inflorescence. Then the inflorescence is pruned properly. For varieties with low fruit-setting rate and scattered panicles, such as Rose Fragrant and Kyoho, the secondary panicle should be cut off 2~3 days before flowering, and some panicle tips should be pinched off to improve the fruit-setting rate. White Malaga, Italy and other varieties with high fruit setting rate often support fruit, which leads to inconsistent fruit cracking and fruit maturity. These varieties should be thinned with small scissors at 10~20 days after flowering to increase fruit size and improve quality. Japanese Kyoho grapes are sparse in panicle, generally about 35 grains are left per panicle, and the single fruit weight can reach 15 ~ 18g.
Fourth, fertilizer and water management Grapes are perennial plants, which grow and bear fruit every year and need to absorb a lot of nutrients from the soil. In order to maintain the robust growth of trees and continuously improve the yield and quality of products, we must pay attention to rational fertilization. According to the determination of some high-yield vineyards in China, for every 100 kg of berries, 0.25-0.75 kg of nitrogen, 0.2-0.75 kg of phosphorus and 0. 13-0.63 kg of potassium should be applied. All localities can adjust measures to local conditions and apply fertilizers appropriately through production practice and scientific experiments. According to the fertilization period, it can be divided into base fertilizer and topdressing. Base fertilizer should be applied from the end of September to the beginning of 10 when the new shoots are fully mature. The base fertilizer is mixed with after-effect fertilizers such as decomposed human manure or manure, poultry manure, green manure and phosphate fertilizer (superphosphate). Topdressing generally uses quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer, such as decomposed human excrement and urine, cake fertilizer and so on. Ten days before flowering, apply potash fertilizer, such as plant ash and chicken manure. , mainly used in early July. The fertilization method can dig an annular ditch about 1 m away from the plant. The depth of base fertilizer is about 40 cm, and topdressing should be shallow to avoid excessive root damage. Water is needed after fertilization. Topdressing outside the root of grape has obvious effect on improving yield and quality, and the method is simple. Spraying 1-3% calcium superphosphate solution before flowering, young fruit stage and berry maturity can increase yield and improve quality; Spraying 0.05-0. 1% boric acid solution before flowering can improve the fruit setting rate; Spraying 0.02% potassium salt solution or 3% plant ash extract (soaked the day before spraying) during fruit setting and fruit growth can improve the sugar content and yield of berries. Spraying fertilizer outside the roots, in case of drought, should reduce the concentration appropriately to avoid burning leaves; In the unused areas, it is advisable to try it out in small batches first, and then gradually promote it after gaining experience. Grape is relatively drought-tolerant, but if it can be irrigated in time, the yield can be significantly improved. The soil must be kept moist before the sap flows to blossom. At this time, if topdressing irrigation can be used, good fertilizer and water conditions can be created for flowering and fruit setting. However, too much water during flowering will cause a large number of flowers and fruits to fall. Unless the soil is too dry, it is not suitable for watering during flowering. From fruit setting to fruit coloring, it is in a high temperature state, and the transpiration on leaves is large, which requires a lot of water. Water can be poured every 7- 10 days according to the weather. After the coloring of the fruit begins to soften, the sugar content of the fruit decreases, which makes it difficult to store and easy to crack unless there are too many dry years. During dormancy, too dry soil is not conducive to overwintering, and too wet soil is easy to cause mildew in bud eyes. Generally, irrigation is combined with autumn fertilization once after harvest to facilitate water permeability. In northern producing areas, irrigation is needed once before cold protection, which is an important measure for grape cold protection.
Verb (abbreviation of verb) Harvest and storage Fresh grapes must be harvested in time to ensure the quality. Early harvest, low sugar content, high acidity, color difference, light aroma and poor flavor, but fully mature fruits, if delayed, are in danger of cracking and threshing, which will affect the recovery of tree potential. The best time to harvest grapes is after the dew dries in the morning and after sunset in the afternoon. At this time, the temperature in the juice is reduced, which is not only fragrant, but also resistant to storage. After harvesting, if a part can be stored and listed on New Year's Day or Spring Festival, a higher price can be obtained. Generally, grapes with higher maturity are more resistant to storage, and a small number of spikes can be left on the tree to postpone harvesting. The harvested ear is sealed with wax at the cut of the ear shaft to reduce water evaporation and remove broken grains, small fruits and diseased grains, and then stored in the shade for 1-2 days. Wash and dry the jar, put three layers of paper inside, put grapes, put a tic-tac-toe grid on it, put another layer of grapes, put a tic-tac-toe grid and a layer of grapes until it is full, and cover the jar with paper. Weigh the measuring cylinder in a cool room. It's getting cold, cover the jar mouth and cover the grass. Surround the cylinder with grass to keep the indoor temperature at 0 ~ 2℃. When stored in February-March of the following year, the fruit is still as fresh as ever.
Six, the main pests and diseases and their control 1, the main grape diseases and their control. (1) Grape black pox. It mainly harms the tender parts of grapes. When the tender shoots, petioles and tendrils are damaged, there are dark rectangular lesions, and when the lesions are serious, they are connected and dried up. Fruit won't be harmed after coloring. The disease mostly occurs in high temperature and high humidity environment, and it is easy to occur in rainy places in the south. Prevention and control methods: cut off diseased branches, diseased leaves and diseased fruits in time, cut off diseased branches and burn or bury them in winter to reduce the source of disease; Spraying 5-degree stone sulfur mixture when buds swell before germination; During the growing period (once before and once after flowering), the Bordeaux mixture was sprayed at the ratio of 1 kg copper sulfate, 0.5 kg quicklime and 80- 100 kg water. (2) Grape downy mildew. It is mainly harmful to leaves, and its main feature is that gray and frosty mold layers grow evenly on the surface of diseased parts. Rainy, foggy and open air are most suitable for the onset. Prevention and control methods: prevention and control in rainy season, spraying 200 times of Bordeaux mixture for 2-3 times from July. (3) Grape anthracnose. Mainly harmful to fruits. Generally, the sugar content of fruit rises to maturity in mid-July, which is the peak of disease occurrence and epidemic. Prevention and treatment methods: cut off diseased branches in time to eliminate the source of the disease; After mid-June, spray 600-800 times of special sterilization liquid every half month. (4) Grape powdery mildew. Harm all green parts of grapes, such as fruits, leaves and new buds. And a gray-white toner layer is formed on the surface of the affected part. Hot and sultry weather is easy to get sick, and extensive management and closed shelves will also promote the development of the virus. Prevention and control methods: strengthen management and make the cage surface ventilated and transparent; Pour out the cut diseased branches and leaves; Spraying 5-degree stone sulfur mixture before germination, and spraying 0.2-0.3-degree stone sulfur mixture once in mid-May. (5) grape water tank disease. Also known as grape powder granules, it is a physiological disease caused by too much fruit and insufficient nutrition. This disease often occurs at the top of the ear. When the disease is mild, the diseased fruit has low sugar content and high acidity, and the pulp tissue becomes soft. In severe cases, the fruit becomes light, sweet and fragrant, the pulp becomes thin and then shrinks. Control methods: adjust fruit yield by keeping branches properly, thinning ears or pinching ear tips; Strengthening fertilization, increasing tree nutrition and applying potassium fertilizer appropriately can reduce the occurrence of this disease. 2. Main grape pests and their control. (1) Grape leafhopper, also known as grape two-point floating dust, has two obvious round black spots on its head. The adult is 3.5 mm long, the whole body is yellow and white, and the larva is about 2 mm long. The whole grape growth period can be damaged, and many small white spots appear on the damaged leaves. In severe cases, the leaves turn white, which leads to the leaves falling off early. Spraying 50% dichlorvos or 90% trichlorfon or 40% dimethoate for 800- 1000 times is effective. (2) Grape red spider. Prevention and control methods: stripping branches, spraying old skins and burning in winter to eliminate overwintering adults; The germination period is 3 degrees, and the growth period is 0.2-0.3 degrees. (3) Hard scale insects, also known as hard scale insects, can be sprayed with 50% dichlorvos 1000 times. Bordeaux mixture and sulfur mixture are commonly used drugs to control grape diseases and insect pests, and cannot be mixed. After spraying sulfur mixture, Bordeaux mixture should be sprayed after 10- 15 days, and sulfur mixture should be sprayed after 30 days.