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What is the role of pruning peach trees during their growth period? What are the common pruning techniques?
Pruning of peach trees in growth period includes pruning in spring, summer and autumn. Pruning in growth period can adjust the growth of new shoots, reduce ineffective growth, save nutrients, improve illumination, strengthen nutrient synthesis, adjust the angle of main branches, balance tree potential, promote the fullness of flower buds at the base of new shoots, and improve fruit quality and yield.

Pruning methods of peach trees in growth period mainly include bud wiping, sprouting, pit removing, tip twisting and branch pulling.

(1) bud removal and germination

Bud wiping refers to erasing the clustered buds, competitive buds and double buds under the incision after germination. When the new bud grows to about 5 cm after germination, break the tender tip. General double hair: "go and leave one", that is, two new buds are born in one bud position, and the buds with appropriate position and angle are left, and the buds with inappropriate position and angle should be broken off. Brushing buds and removing sprouting can save nutrients, improve light and promote the growth of new shoots.

(2) Choose the heart

Picking refers to removing a small part of the top of the growing new bud together with the tender leaves. The main functions of denucleation are: controlling the growth of new shoots, saving nutrients, promoting local enrichment of new shoots and promoting flower bud differentiation; You can find the hair branch by picking the core from the new branch in Wang Qiang. Most of them are used to shape secondary buds or cultivate branches. Peach tree coring is an indispensable technical measure for pruning in growth period, which plays an important role in rapid shaping and branch culture (figure 18).

Figure 18 Selecting the Core

1. Leave 5 ~ 6 leaves for coring on the long branches. 2. There is no coring result. 3. Re-coring results. 4. Continuous coring results.

(3) twist the tip

Twisting is to twist the long upright branches and other vigorous branches by about 130 degrees, so that the upward growth is twisted into the downward growth. Most of the wringing of peach trees is to transform long branches into fruiting branches, and at the same time, it also achieves the effect of improving light. In the torsion period of new shoots, it is suitable to grow new shoots of about 30 cm, but it has not been lignified yet. It is appropriate to twist the tip about 10 cm at the base of the branch tip (Figure 19). Twist tip is mostly used for long tip, competitive tip, back tip and winding tip.

Figure 19 twisted tip

In actual production, some long branches can't form an ideal branch group only by twisting branches once, so it is necessary to pick the core first and then twist branches, and the combination of the two can get better results. Generally, when the new buds grow to 20 ~ 30cm, the buds at the top of the new buds are removed, and then 2 ~ 3 secondary buds are pulled out. When the new buds grow to about 30cm, the new buds are twisted. After this treatment, the number of branches increased, the nutrition was dispersed and the growth potential of branches was stable.

(4) Cutting tip

Cutting shoots refers to cutting off a part of new shoots, which has the functions of promoting growth branching, controlling vigorous growth, improving illumination and slowing down the growth potential of new shoots. The fruit branches cultivated by cutting shoots are not as good as those cultivated by twisting shoots. The pruning period is still too early. Generally, two fruiting branches can be taken out when the shoots are cut from late May to early June. The flower buds formed by the secondary buds drawn too late are not good. It is best to leave 3 ~ 5 "bright buds" at the base of the cutting tip.

In order to improve the light and enrich the new shoots at the lower part, young trees are pruned after the new shoots stop growing, usually after August in the north. After coring, the top cluster-like secondary branches are formed, leaving 1 ~ 2 secondary branches with good bases, and the upper secondary branches are "cored" and cut off. Generally in the south, bamboo shoots are cut twice from the end of June to the beginning of July and from the end of August to the beginning of September.

(5) Branch pulling

Branch pulling is a technical means to open the branches that grow more upright. Pulling branches can relax the tree and bear fruit early, which is the key measure to prevent the lower part of branches from being bare and without branches. The main branches of 1 ~ 2-year-old young trees are usually pulled out from June to July. If it is pulled out too early, the growth potential of new shoots will be weakened, which will affect the formation of main branches. Trees more than 3 years old can be pulled as early as May-June. At this time, the sap has flowed out, and the branches become soft and easy to open and set fruit.

Problems that should be paid attention to when pulling branches: ① Determine the opening angle of various branches according to the tree requirements to ensure the subordinate relationship of branches at all levels. Generally speaking, the opening angle of the auxiliary branch is larger than that of the side branch, and the opening angle of the side branch is larger than that of the main branch. (2) When pulling the main branches, do not pull or droop horizontally, otherwise it will weaken the top of the pulled branches and make the branches on the back grow vigorously. (3) When opening branches, the bottom angle and waist angle of branches should be open, but they should not be bent into an arch (Figure 20), otherwise it is easy to draw thick branches in the bent and prominent parts, and the purpose of pulling branches cannot be achieved.

Figure 20 Incorrect Branch Pull-out

Branching methods can be adapted to local conditions, such as pulling, bracing and hanging.