Spring pruning is carried out from the appearance of new buds in spring to before flowering, and there are five treatment methods:

(1) If the spring shoots and summer shoots of the fruiting mother shoots released last winter have sprouted, the upper summer shoots should be cut off as soon as possible, and the fruiting branches of the spring shoots should be kept. For example, if summer shoots or autumn shoots are sprouting vegetative branches and spring shoots are sprouting fruiting branches, they should also be cut off as soon as possible. In spring, summer and autumn, the tender branches are weak, and all the vegetative branches are retracted to the spring shoots.

(2) When too many fruiting branches are extracted from the fruiting mother branch, resulting in dense and crowded fruiting branches, some fruiting branches can be thinned out.

(3) If there are too many branches left during pruning in winter, and it is found that the crown of the tree is too crowded or there are branches disturbing the tree shape after pulling out the spring shoots, the branches can be thinned in spring, and the medicine can be applied to protect the cut.

(4) Before flowering, core the fruiting branches and vegetative branches that have not stopped growing, and generally leave 6-8 leaves on the top flower for coring. Be careful not to leave too few leaves. If there are too few leaves, it is not conducive to providing enough nutrition for future fruit development. Second, if there are few fruits, the branches will still flourish and sprout in summer. Repeatedly worrying that after summer shoots, branches with fewer leaves in spring shoots will leave fewer buds when pruning in winter, which is not conducive to sustained fruit in the next year. If the branches are naturally capped before flowering, there is no need to pick the heart.

(5) Spring shoots damaged by anthracnose should be cut off as soon as possible to reduce the infection of young fruits after flowering.

Second, summer scissors

Summer pruning is done after the flowers wither. First, for summer shoots, keep 2-3 leaves for repeated coring before leaf development, so that they consume less nutrients. Secondly, thinning the fruit after the first physiological fruit drop. Generally, the fruit is determined according to the load of branches, with 2-3 strong branches, medium strong branches 1-2, and weak branches 1.

Keep a certain distance between two fruits on the same fruit branch to avoid close extrusion after the fruit expands in the future. In order to prevent fruit drop caused by anthracnose, the amount of fruit left can be appropriately more than the planned output. In addition, for young trees bearing fruit, it is generally unnecessary to leave summer and autumn shoots. After repeated coring control, winter pruning should be shortened at the junction of spring shoots and summer and autumn shoots, leaving only spring shoots as the mother branches in the coming year.

Small trees bear fruit easily if the weather is bad. After all the young fruits fall, the young trees that have lost their load will flourish and send out a lot of summer and autumn buds. In this case, it is necessary to control fertilization and use growth inhibitors if necessary. Therefore, for trees with serious flower and fruit drop and too strong (i.e., trees with thick branches), pruning in winter can be postponed, and pruning in spring can be carried out as soon as possible after germination. Trees with thin autumn shoots can be cut off in winter and then cut off according to the crown size after germination in spring to control the crown.

Third, winter scissors

Winter cutting can start when the leaves are near, and early cutting is beneficial to the formation of mixed buds near the cutting mouth. First of all, long summer and autumn shoots should be cut short to avoid too long branches and too fast crown closure. The incision should be at the junction of spring shoots and summer shoots or summer and autumn shoots, because the upper end of spring shoots or summer shoots is easy to form mixed buds. Another function of winter shears is to clear the garden, cut off the branches of pests and diseases, bury dead leaves or burn them centrally, paint the trunk white, and spray 3-5 baume mixture on the crown of trees to remove pests and diseases in winter.

Pruning method of persimmon tree:

1, release: pruning different branches;

2. Cut: Cut off some branches;

3. Sparse: remove branches from the foundation;

4. Change the direction: support, fall, twist branches, twist tips, take branches, pull branches, etc.

5. Injury: nail opening, girdling, girdling, girdling, large peeling, injury, etc.

Extended data:

Persimmon trees are deciduous trees with many varieties. The leaves are oval or obovate, with fluff on the back and yellow-white flowers. Berries, oblate or conical, orange or yellow, are edible. Green berries can be left for a few days until they become soft. Wood can be used to make utensils. Persimmon is a deciduous tree of Persimmon family, which originated in China. Its height can reach 15 meters. Its trunk stands upright and its crown is huge. Persimmons ripen in September and October.

Persimmon is native to China, with a wide range of cultivation and a long history. Persimmon trees are drought-tolerant and moisture-tolerant, bearing early fruits, high yield and long life. It is a tall deciduous tree with a height of 10 meter or more.

Persimmon trees can begin to bear fruit in 5 ~ 6 years after grafting, and enter the full fruit stage in 10 ~ 12 years, and the economic life can reach more than 100 years. Seedling trees bear fruit late and begin to bear fruit about 7 ~ 8 years after sowing. Persimmon has a wide crown and strong natural regeneration ability. Under general cultivation conditions, the fruiting life can reach more than 100 years, and under good management conditions, the tree age can reach more than 300 years.