The soil is 1: Clivia originated from the big trees in the forests of high altitude areas in southern Africa, rooted in rotten leaves accumulated for many years. Clivia should be cultivated with loose and fertile neutral or weakly acidic humus soil, and the cultivated soil can be mixed with humus soil 65%, clean sand 20% and fine furnace ash 15%. The relative humidity of soil should be around 40%. If the soil is hardened and the drainage is not smooth, it will lead to rotten roots. Changing soil in spring, it is best to buy special soil for Clivia planting. The special soil for Clivia is humus, which is very suitable for the growth of Clivia.
Fertilization: Clivia should apply solid fertilizer once in winter, less nitrogen fertilizer, more phosphorus fertilizer and potassium fertilizer. Eggshell powder and cooked fishy water are good phosphate fertilizers, while bran ash and ash are easy to obtain. Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium compound fertilizers can also be applied to promote the germination of more new plants and leaves. Fertilization must be appropriate, and it is forbidden to apply thick fertilizer and raw fertilizer that has not been fermented and decomposed, otherwise it will easily cause the tip to scorch or rot. In winter, if the new leaves are spotted and the roots are yellow, it means that there is too much fertilization, while the new leaves are narrow and thin, and the color is particularly light, which is a manifestation of lack of fertilizer.
Water: The soil should not be too dry or too wet. Be sure to water thoroughly every time, and water more after budding. Water fertilization can be combined with fermented bean cake water, light fishy water and horseshoe water, once every 20 days or so. When the room temperature is low, the water should be controlled to prevent the basin soil from getting too wet. Too wet pot soil will lead to the root rot and death of plants, but it should not be too dry.
4. Heat preservation: The suitable temperature for Clivia to grow in winter is 15-20℃, preferably not lower than 10℃. The temperature behind the dart should be kept around 18℃, and the temperature difference between day and night should be around 10℃, otherwise the flower arrow will bloom if it is not long enough, and it is easy to form an "arrow clip". Clivia should be moved indoors when the outdoor temperature is lower than 10℃ at night. When the indoor temperature is lower than 10℃, in addition to covering the surface of the flowerpot with a layer of charcoal powder with a thickness of 1 cm, the flowerpot should also be placed in a sunny place indoors. When the indoor temperature is extremely low, the flowerpot can be covered with a film to increase the temperature, but the temperature in the cover should not exceed 25℃. When it exceeds 25℃, it should be ventilated and cooled in time.
5 illumination: Clivia blooms easily in short sunlight. Exposure to the hot sun and direct sunlight in summer will cause sunburn and inhibit growth. It should be cultivated in a shady shed or semi-shady environment without direct sunlight from May to September every year. But the longer the sunshine in winter, the better. When flowering, weak light can prolong the flowering period. It likes warm and cool, and avoids cold and heat. Generally, it grows well at 18-20℃ and stops growing below 5℃. After Clivia enters the room, the light is limited, so it is necessary to manually move the flowerpot for adjustment. Under normal circumstances, the flowerpot should be placed in a sunny place indoors during the day to let the sun shine on the plants. Before flowering, flowerpots should also be placed under fluorescent lamps to supplement the light at night. Because the two rows of leaves of Clivia are opposite, if the light stays in one position for a long time, the leaves will grow unevenly, which will affect the ornamental effect. Therefore, we should pay attention to the direction of leaves when dimming, and change the sunny side every 10 days or so. There are two ways to place flowerpots indoors: one is to make the leaves parallel to the sunny window, and the other is to make the leaves perpendicular to the sunny window. The latter is better than the former.
6 Prolonged flowering period: The flowering period of Clivia is mostly from 65438+February to March of the following year. The way to prolong the flowering period is to put the flowers in a dark place when they are about to bloom, control the watering appropriately and keep the temperature at 8- 12℃. This can prolong the flowering period 10-20 days.
Causes and solutions of two Clivia arrowheads.
If you can care correctly according to the above methods, it will generally not cause arrow entrapment. Once the arrow is trapped, the effect can only be obtained by using the correct method. Specific countermeasures are:
1 Fertilizer adjustment: Clivia turns into reproductive growth period in autumn, and the fertilizer requirement increases. If the fertilizer is not properly applied, it is not conducive to malnutrition. Therefore, we should pay attention to fertilizer adjustment. Generally, after Clivia has been cultivated for three years, it is necessary to increase the number of fertilization in autumn. It is best to use liquid fertilizer with high phosphorus content and apply more 20% potassium dihydrogen phosphate when necessary to promote the differentiation and formation of flower buds, quickly "shoot arrows" and bloom early.
Water transfer: Water can keep the plants of Clivia in a normal posture, and the cells and tissues in the body contain enough water for normal physiological activities. Clivia can't fly and blossom without water, and its leaves will wither, wither, droop and curl. Therefore, in archery, it is necessary to break the conventional watering method of "seeing wet and seeing dry", appropriately increase the amount of watering, and never let the basin soil dry thoroughly, otherwise the arrow will be caught and the flowering will be affected.
3 Temperature regulation: The optimum temperature for Clivia growth is 15℃-25℃, below which it is difficult to blossom. If the pseudobulb uplift of Clivia is found, the newly-grown leaves appear "arrow path" (meaning that after the flower buds of Clivia are differentiated, the newly-grown leaves are squeezed by the flower buds), which is a sign of "archery". At this time, we should pay attention to adjust the temperature to 25℃ during the day and control it at 15℃ at night.
Decompression: Because the pressure of the leaf sheath and pseudobulb is too great, the arrow can't escape because it is caught in it, which is another reason for the arrow. If this happens, the scabbard of the scabbard can be cut 1.5cm with a sterilized blade to reduce the pressure of the scabbard base on the scabbard and promote the detachment of the scabbard.
Third, the method of correcting the skew of Clivia leaves:
1 Use a small clip with appropriate strength (such as a small bamboo clip for drying) to pad soft paper to directly clamp the crooked leaves and straight leaves together, and after a period of time, the crooked leaves can be corrected.
2 opaque tin foil paper or cardboard is folded into the width of 1/2 according to the length of the blade and fixed on the blade with hairpins or round needles. If the blade is skewed there, just fix it there and the blade will recover in a few days. In this process, we should pay attention to observation at any time to prevent overcorrection.
When viewed from the front of Clivia, some two leaves are spaced apart, and some two leaves are next to each other. Cardboard can be used to make a set of plates. According to the number of leaves, open some equally spaced grooves and carefully clip the leaves inside. After the treatment and shaping of the above methods, Clivia reached the ideal shape of looking at a line from the side and facing upwards like a fan.
Usually, we should pay attention to the placement direction of Clivia, point the top of the leaves in the north-south direction respectively, and rotate the flowerpot regularly by 180 degrees to change the north-south direction of the two groups of leaves in turn.
Clivia had better change soil in spring and autumn, because the temperature is suitable at this time, Clivia grows vigorously, and changing soil will not affect its growth. In the south, the vigorous growth period of Clivia is from March to June. At this time, the lowest temperature in southern China is generally 10℃~ 15℃, and the highest temperature is 20℃~28℃, and some areas may exceed 30℃, which is the suitable growth temperature for Clivia. According to the actual situation in this area, foster care personnel can turn over pots and change soil in March-April; The second is August-September, with warm and cold weather and moderate temperature, which is the second vigorous growth period of Clivia. According to the growth of plants, in mid-August, growers can turn over pots in autumn. It should be noted that it is best not to change the soil after Clivia shoots, or at the budding and flowering stage, because plants need more nutrients at this stage, and the implementation of soil changing operation will affect the continuous supply of nutrients. However, if it is necessary to change the soil because of poor soil quality, we should also be careful not to break up the lump to minimize the losses caused by changing the soil.
Tank changing operation
For flowerpots that need soil replacement, they must be watered once the day before soil replacement to make them permeable. When changing pots, put the potted flowers obliquely on the ground, hold the pseudobulb of the plant with one hand and the flowerpot with the other, turn it upside down slowly, and tap the edge of the pot on the wooden bench, and the plants will be exposed. If you want to change pots for an adult Clivia over 4 years old, it needs two people to operate, that is, one person holds the pseudobulb of the plant with both hands, and the other person holds the flowerpot with both hands, and gently taps the edge of the pot on the wooden bench to take out the plant. When clivia is taken out, be careful not to break the soil to avoid damaging the root system.
After plants come out of the pot, they should gently peel off the soil, and at the same time remove the decaying fleshy roots (but no rotting fleshy roots, no matter how long they are, can't be cut off, because these fleshy roots and their tops have many hairs, which can not only absorb water and nutrients, but also secrete various acids, dissolve insoluble nutrients in the soil and expand absorption. If it is cut down, although the plant will not die, it will definitely affect its growth. Then wash the roots with clear water (don't wash the seedlings for one or two years), air them for two or three hours, and then put them on the pot.
When replacing a new flowerpot, first cover half of the drainage hole at the bottom of the flowerpot with a piece of debris, and then put a piece of debris obliquely on the other half of the drainage hole, which is beneficial to ventilation and drainage. At the same time, the bottom of the flowerpot is padded with a layer of wood chips or slag particles to improve drainage and air permeability, and then filled with a layer of loose coarse-grained soil or large humus soil. In this way, the roots of Clivia are easy to stretch, and the ventilation and drainage are better, so as to avoid the fine soil blocking the holes at the bottom of the basin, causing excessive water accumulation and rotten roots. You can water it twice when loading soil. When the cultivated soil reaches half a pot, hold Clivia pseudobulb in your right hand and gently lift it upward to straighten the root system, and then water it for the first time 1 time. In this way, nutrient soil can smoothly enter the rhizosphere and avoid soil shortage in some rhizosphere. When the nutrient soil is 2~ cm away from the basin mouth, water is poured again to make the nutrient soil solid. Water it thoroughly twice.
Clivia, a new pot, should be placed in the shade for about 10 days to slow down the evaporation of water and make it gradually regain its vitality. This is called "serving pot". After 10, the light can be gradually increased.