Essential knowledge for clothing pattern making

As a pattern maker, you should have three aspects of knowledge: human body knowledge, material knowledge and clothing technology knowledge.

Human body knowledge includes: human skeletal structure and human muscle tissue structure, body surface morphology of various parts of the human body and general characteristics of the human body in static state, human body movement patterns and general characteristics in dynamic state, and proportional changes in human growth and development. Laws, front-to-back balance laws of human body changes, gender differences in human body shape and special body shapes of human body shape variation, classification of size specifications and coverage of which types of people the size specifications are suitable for, and human body proportions.

The first thing to know about clothing materials is the difference in texture and performance of surface auxiliary materials. When making clothing panels, it is necessary to master the performance of the surface accessories so that appropriate adjustments can be made during panel making, such as adjusting according to their specific properties and values ??such as natural retraction rate, heating shrinkage rate, shrinkage rate, etc. during panel making. In order to ensure the requirements of finished product specifications, in addition, the yarn count, density, drape, texture, thickness, softness and hardness of the fabric should be treated differently in the board making.

Secondly, the surface differences of clothing fabrics, the front and back sides of the fabrics, and the different texture characteristics have a great impact on panel making, such as the inverse smoothness of the fabric, the inverse stripe, and the yarn-dyed weaving or printing. Floral patterns in fabrics, mandarin duck strips, etc.

Furthermore, the concepts of warp and weft of fabric. The main composition of fabric is made of warp and weft. The length of the cloth is along the edge of the cloth, which is usually called straight yarn. The width of the web is the weft yarn, commonly known as the horizontal yarn. Due to their different craftsmanship in the textile process, they have formed unique properties and have different applications in clothing.

Straight yarn has the characteristics of being strong and not easy to stretch and deform. It is suitable for the vertical direction of the human body, mainly reflected in the length of the garment. The horizontal yarn is soft and has a small twist, so it can be slightly stretched or contracted. It is suitable for use in the transverse direction of the human body, mainly showing the girth of the garment and the width of each part. Oblique yarn is used diagonally at the intersection of warp yarn and weft yarn. It is highly stretchable, elastic, has good plasticity, and is easy to bend and change. It is often used in many edge strips and other parts of clothing, and has full, round and natural curves. Excellent effect. In addition, it can also be used in dresses, coats and other large and bias-cut clothing to achieve smooth draping, round waves and free relaxation. There are two points to note when using bias yarns. First, take 45% of the warp and weft yarns of the fabric. The bevel angle is positive and has the best performance, which is greater than or less than 45. The angle has varying degrees of influence; secondly, it is necessary to consider that the direction of the oblique yarn is divided into horizontal oblique and vertical oblique, which are also called broken yarn and straight yarn.

Paper pattern makers must also understand the manufacturing methods of clothing. There must be close cooperation between plate making and sewing processes. The main points are as follows:

①Seam allowance structure , such as the back seam, side seam, sleeve seam, upper collar seam, etc. of the jacket. The crotch seam, waist seam, side seam, etc. of bottoms are also included. There are also ways to express seams, such as split seams and back seams. Backstitching can be divided into overlocking backstitching, overlocking backstitching, open-line backstitching, bobbin sewing, concealed sewing, open sewing and so on. All of these must leave the seam head when making the board to make Different situations differ.

② Seam structure, the edges of each part or component of the garment must have a fold or other separate form distinction, such as hem, cuffs, leg openings, stops, armholes, collars, etc. Etc., these structural treatments should be reflected when making boards.

③Differences in internal structure, including the structural relationship between the surface and lining of the clothes and other accessories. For example, whether the top is hung with a full lining or half a lining, or without a lining, the lining and production process must be changed. , different forms of changes must be made when making boards.

④The plastic surgery process aims at shortening or elongating certain parts to achieve bulges or depressions on the surface. The means include manual stretching or shrinking, plus pulling. The fixation of the strips and the shrinkage of the arch lines with hand needles, as well as the shaping, crotch pulling, breast ironing, etc. with professional equipment. These technological methods must be properly processed and adjusted during the board making.

Knowledge of clothing pattern making

1. Garment pattern design for garment production

The clothing design renderings are transformed into plane structure drawings and become rough samples for garment production ( Production paper pattern), that is, design renderings - determine the body shape and data - structural decomposition sketch - determine the drawing specification values ??of the main parts - clean sample of the plane structure diagram - rough sample. In such a pattern design process, the pattern designer must consider how to set up a better set of production patterns so that the garments can improve quality, reduce costs, and increase efficiency. Therefore, it is different from ordinary pattern production ( for personal and custom-made clothing).

1. According to the designed sewing process, all seams of the garment structure diagram should be shown on the sample. In addition to the various technical parameters and marks on the clean sample, the sewing method and requirements should be noted. ; Ironing parts and methods; requires process sequence, production patterns used for laying out materials, determining the laying out method and accurate material consumption must have the following review: (Take men's shirts as an example)

① For equipment Review of sizing. Measure each part of the pattern according to the customer's or given dimensions.

② Review the consistency of each suture line.

The interconnection relationship between various parts of clothing, as shown in Figure (1-1), is the production pattern of a men's shirt. After the pattern is made, it is necessary to check whether the armhole arc and collar arc are round and smooth; check the hem and hem of the shirt foot. Check whether the cuff arc is rounded and smooth; check whether the sleeve arc and armhole arc are equal in length; check whether the collar arc and collar leg are equal in length; check the sleeve cuff arc (except pleats) and sleeve width. Whether they are equal; check whether the lengths of the front and rear side seams are equal.

③ Review each alignment mark. Men's shirts have fold marks and button gate marks on the front placket; alignment marks on the armhole arc of the shirt body and the sleeve mountain arc of the sleeves; button gate marks on the collar and alignment marks with the front center line; and welts on the exposed patch pockets. Fold marks, etc.; pleat marks on the cuff line of the sleeve, etc.

④ Review of cloth grain lines. Check the grain direction of the fabric when it is cut.

⑤ Review the seam allowance. Except for the placket and open patch pocket seam allowances (stops), the men's shirt production patterns have a 1CM seam allowance.

⑥ Review the total quantity of paper patterns. There are 11 patterns for men's shirts (including bottom collar and top collar).

⑦Recheck whether all information is complete. Including style name, cutting quantity, yardage, cut piece name, etc.

2. Cut the reviewed pattern into ready-made garments to check whether the pattern achieves the design intent. This pattern is called the "head board". Modify and adjust the unconfirmed pattern. It is even redesigned, then reviewed and made into a "duplicate" garment, and finally confirmed as a pattern for garment production.

2. The design of the paper pattern needs to consider the actual fabrics produced, the process structure used, the clothing style, and the quality requirements.

In the process of clothing pattern design, due to different styles of clothing; differences in fabric structure and thickness; limitations in clothing production and machine types; differences in quality and organizational structure of clothing, etc., all will It affects the actual production, so the production of clothing structure patterns also has different requirements.

1. According to the tightness of clothing fabrics, determine the different requirements for seam allowance for different sewing methods.

① According to the thickness of the fabric, the seam allowance can be divided into three types: thin, medium and thick. The seam allowance for clothing patterns of thin fabrics is generally 0.8cm, medium type is 1cm, and thick type is 1.5cm. .

② The seams should be narrowed in places with large seam arcs, such as armholes, collar lines, etc. Because of the arc problem, too much seam allowance will cause wrinkles. However, the seam design of the production pattern should be as small as possible. It may be neat and uniform, which will help improve production efficiency and also improve product quality standards. Therefore, the seam of the shirt collar and collar line is still 1cm. After sewing, the collar line is uniformly trimmed to 0 and 5cm, which can be used Keeping the arc of the collar flat can also avoid insufficient seams due to loosening of fabric. The seams should be wider in places where extra clothing is added, such as the seams on the back of trousers. The seams added at the back midline are 2.5cm (see Figure 2-1a). The front and rear side seams of the upper body can be added 1.5cm. 5cm, etc., can not only increase product sales but also meet the psychological requirements of customers.

③Different stitching methods have different requirements for the amount of additional stitching. For example, flat stitching is the most commonly used and simplest sewing method. The seam allowance for the closing seam is generally 0.8-1.2cm. For some loose and loose fabrics, fold the seams after sewing. 1cm is commonly used for overlocking together; 1 or 2cm is commonly used for dividing seams after sewing (see Figure 2-1b). Regarding the sewing methods used for folding the hems of clothing (skirt hems, cuffs, trouser cuffs, etc.), there are generally two situations: one is hemming and then hemming, and the other is direct hemming (see Figure 2-1c). ). The extra seam of the overlock hem seam is the width of the required hem. If it is a flat hem style, the summer top is generally 2 to 2, 5cm, the winter coat is 2, 5 to 3, 5cm, and the pants and suit skirts are generally 2 to 2, 5cm. 3~4cm, which is beneficial to the drape and stability of pants and skirts; if it is a curved hem and cuffs, it is generally 0.5~1cm, and for direct hemming, it is generally necessary to add 0.8~ The folding amount is 1cm. For the edges of larger round shirts, flared skirts, round table skirts, etc., make the folding as narrow as possible. Roll up the seam to make a seam, which is the rolled seam. The rolled width is 0.3~0.5cm, so the seam margin added to this edge is 0.5~1cm. If it is very thin and has a strong tissue structure, you can consider directly locking beads as the edge, or as decoration. The commonly used sewing method for side seams, inseams and back seams of jeans is overlock seaming. The advantage of this overlock seam method is its strong durability. When adding seams, you need to pay attention to whether the front seam covers the back seam or the back seam. Whether the front panel is wrapped in the front panel, the rear panel is wrapped in the machine head, or the machine head is wrapped in the back panel, the seam allowance is generally 1 or 2cm, but the actual seam allowances used in production are different. Hong Kong Rising Sun Group Huizhou Dajin Co., Ltd. has been producing jeans for a long time, and has obtained better results in practice. The best method is to add a seam allowance of 0.6cm to the wrapped piece and 1.6cm to the other piece (see Figure 2-1d). , because the specified size is calculated from the edge of the suture bone, the accuracy and uniformity of the size will not be affected after the finished product is completed.