1。 Soil selection: select fertile and loose humus soil with good drainage, apply sufficient base fertilizer (mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer), and add plant ash 1 portion to the soil. The flowerpot is a big pot with a diameter of 50CM, because cherry seedlings grow fast.
2。 Sowing: Wash the pulp outside the stone with clear water, and then dry it in the shade for 1-2 days before sowing. When sowing, the seeds are directly sown in a pot with a depth of about 3-5CM, which is permeable to water. Germinate about 10-30 days after sowing. But you should be prepared. Some seeds produced by big cherry plants often lack viable embryos and the germination rate is not high. After 35 days of inactivity, it basically failed. Just buy a small cherry seedling!
3。 Young tree management: Young tree pruning is the key to ensure future results. In the young tree period, on the basis of shaping, the pruning degree of all kinds of branches should be light. In addition to properly thinning out some branches that are too dense, crossed and messy, we should also keep as many middle branches and branchlets as possible, and lightly cut the annual branches of/kloc-0 to promote the growth of backbone branches. For 3-4-year-old young trees, the shortening degree of main branch extension branches should be determined according to the growth intensity and branch position. Generally, the extended branches should be cut off by 40-50 cm, and the extended branches should generally leave external buds. Varieties with strong upright branches can also leave inner buds. When cutting in the winter of the following year, we should use external buds as extension branches, which can open corners and inhibit their overgrowth. Branchlets on all branches in the crown are basically motionless. Make it form fruit branches as soon as possible, so as to facilitate early fruiting and high yield.
4。 Pot changing: After three years, if it can be planted in the ground, if there are no conditions, only a large pot (cylinder) with 80- 100 cm can be changed. Pay attention to the drainage problem of the basin bottom!
5。 Watering: Big cherry is neither waterlogging tolerant nor drought resistant, so controlling watering is the key to its normal growth without rotting roots. Keep the soil moist in spring, summer and autumn, and the soil relative humidity should be controlled between 60% and 80%. Among them, from germination to early flowering, water can be poured once according to the soil humidity, so that the soil relative humidity is about 80%, and then the soil relative humidity is controlled between 60% and 70%. See dry pouring in late autumn and winter.
6。 Fertilization: The fertilization amount of big cherry should be determined according to tree age, tree potential, fruit yield and soil fertility level. Reference can be made to the following standards:
(1) Tree age: Generally, it starts from young trees, and with the increase of tree age, the amount of fertilization increases year by year. Nitrogen fertilizer is generally applied at about 1 annual tree 100g, about 200g for 2-3 years old trees, 2-3kg for 4-5 years old trees and 3-4kg for mature trees.
(2) Tree potential: usually measured by the length of peripheral new branches. The length of new shoots around young trees should be 60 ~ 100 cm, 40 ~ 60 cm for 4 ~ 5-year-old trees and 20 ~ 30 cm for fruiting trees. Too long means too much nitrogen fertilizer, so the application amount should be reduced appropriately; Too short means that the amount of nitrogen fertilizer is insufficient, and the amount of fertilizer should be increased accordingly.
7。 Pruning and fruit management: the content is very complicated, and it is not effective to say it on the spot. Summer pruning is mainly to relax the tree and promote the formation of flower buds. The main measures are as follows: (1) Branching: before summer or August-September, the main branches are open to avoid closing and the lower branches are dead. Pulling branches can improve the germination rate, increase the number of short branches, promote early flowering and fruiting, improve the ventilation and light transmission conditions in the crown, improve the quality of branches, prevent internal baldness and alleviate the outward migration of fruiting parts. Pulling strong branches can alleviate the growth of branches and balance the tree potential. The opening angle of the auxiliary branch should be about 80-90 degrees. (2) Bud carving: Before germination, cut a knife across the xylem on the buds and branches to promote the germination of new buds. Bud carving can improve the germination quality of lateral buds or foliage branches, increase the proportion of medium and long branches and the total number of branches, which is beneficial to plastic surgery and make up for the vacancy in the crown. (3) Picking: the strong branches on the tree can be picked continuously. When the length of sprouted long branches and middle branches is 15-20 cm, the middle branches are cultured by coring to increase the effective fruiting parts, promote early fruiting and improve yield. Excavating the core of flourishing branches can promote the growth of branches, increase the number of short branches, slow down the growth of the whole tree and achieve the goal of early fruiting. For vigorous branches, you can pick your heart 2-3 times a year. In order to improve the fruit setting rate, the coring time should be limited to 10- 15 days after flowering. Significantly reduce nutrient consumption, reduce physiological fruit drop, and fruit ripens early. The flowering rate of secondary branches germinated after enucleation is high. (4) girdling: girdling is an effective measure to control vegetative growth and promote early fruit. The girdling of big cherry is very time-sensitive, usually from flowering to late flowering 10 days, on the trunk or branch. The peeling width is slightly larger than the standard of apple. Because of the bark regenerated by xylem parenchyma cells, the peeling healing speed is faster than that of apple. (5) Thinning: Thinning over-dense, over-strong, bare and disordered perennial branches is very beneficial to adjust the tree structure, improve the light balance of the tree and promote flower bud differentiation. At the beginning of June, the branches became thinner and the wound healed easily. Strong branches in the crown that seriously affect ventilation and light transmission and have no reservation value can be drained from the base.
So much for writing, let's talk about it after planting!