Peach blossom has many branches, vigorous growth and early buds, and secondary branches can occur many times a year. If left to grow naturally, the branches tend to be higher and higher because of the top advantage, and the flowering parts move outward, which greatly reduces the ornamental effect; At the same time, it also increases the amount of pruning in winter and effectively consumes nutrition. Pruning in the growing season can not only reduce the position of hair branches, but also control ineffective growth, improve light, promote the growth of useful new shoots, which is conducive to the early formation and flowering of young trees and the rejuvenation of old trees. The period and times of pruning in the growing season vary with the age, variety, potential, soil conditions and working conditions of trees. Generally, the pruning times of young trees and flourishing trees are more than those of adult trees and old trees; Fertile land is not just barren land; Erect varieties need pruning more than open varieties. When the labor force is sufficient, the frequency can be more. Pruning in the growing season is mostly carried out during germination and new shoot growth. The main methods are as follows:

1, wiping buds to remove sprouting

When budding in early spring, the leaf buds that are easy to grow and disturb the tree shape after branching should be erased as soon as possible to save nutrients and promote growth. When shaping young trees, if the incision of extension branches is compound buds, we should choose tender branches with proper direction and vigorous growth as extension branches, and erase all remaining buds or new shoots. When an adult tree retracts its branches, it will sprout near the wound. If there is space, 1 ~ 2 shoots with good directivity and vigorous growth should be selected to fill the space, and all the redundant shoots should be erased to avoid disturbing the tree shape and affecting the growth. The sprouts on old trees, except those that are too dense, should be used as much as possible in order to renew, rejuvenate and strengthen the trees.

Step 2 pick your heart

After the new branches grow to the required length, coring in time can limit the elongation growth or promote them to grow secondary branches to speed up their formation. In order to ensure the growth potential of the main branches, the extension branches of the main branches and side branches are generally 40 ~ 50 cm away from the core, and the auxiliary branches on them should also be removed from the core. When the growth potential among the main branches is unbalanced, the growth potential of the strong main branches can be weakened by removing the core, so that the growth potential of the strong and weak main branches tends to be balanced. Generally, the new shoots on the lateral branches are left 30 cm away from the core, which can make the new shoots grow vigorously and the flower buds differentiate well. For the long branches on the crown, 6 ~ 8 buds can be left for coring from late May to early June. After the branches germinate, remove the strong branches, leave the middle branches, and cultivate the branches into branches. Generally, early enucleation can promote growth; Picking the heart in the later stage can promote development. Therefore, the time and frequency of coring should be determined according to the purpose of coring and the situation of tree potential and branches. Generally, the tops of lush trees are picked early and frequently; The weak branches of weak trees are picked late and the frequency is low.

Step 3 twist the tip

For vigorous and upright branches, when the base of new branches begins to lignify in the first half of May, hold the initial lignified part by hand and twist it in the direction of crown gap. When twisting, the damage of phloem will be reduced as much as possible. After several twists, the branches will extend horizontally or obliquely. This not only eased the growth potential of the top, prevented overgrowth, but also cultivated branches that could occupy effective space.