Fruit trees shoot out easily. If not pruned regularly, the branches and leaves will become longer and denser, which will hinder the penetration of sunlight and affect the growth of fruits. 1. Most of the weak branches are single-branch extension branches, and only shrinkage can make them stronger again. When shrinking, cut off the strong branches behind the scissors or raise the branches and leaves. 2. Shrinking bare-legged branches In the process of professional growth, some branches have branches at the front end but a long bald branch at the back. For this kind of branches, parallel branches should be left at the cutting mouth, and the cutting mouth should be large, which is beneficial to the stimulation and growth of buds on the bare-legged branches behind. 3. Pruning of flower branches For the flower branches that have been discarded for many years, they should be pruned according to the growth of the branches and the pruning reaction. If the fruit trees are too sensitive, moderate branches can be cut off by half. 4. The trunk branches will weaken after the full fruit period, especially for apple trees. In order to continue to grow and prolong life, the backbone branches should be pruned in time. 5. The crown expansion of fruit trees is formed by pruning the central branch, and then opening a new chamber to introduce light. The central branch must shrink to be happy. When pruning fruit trees that like light and are sensitive to pruning, 65,438+0 branchlets should be left under the cut. Three principles of fruit tree pruning in winter The principle of balancing tree potential The purpose of pruning is to balance tree potential and promote moderate tree health. Before pruning, we should observe the tree potential of the whole garden and each tree, and then decide whether to adopt the pruning method of dividing potential or combining potential. It should be emphasized that pruning is only a means, and it is best to combine it with underground application of organic fertilizer and fertility improvement to achieve ideal results. The principle of clearing the way Another purpose of winter pruning is to clear the way for fruit trees to occupy space reasonably. Trees need to take up a lot of space, so if they are covered too densely now, they should be reshaped and thinned if necessary, so that temporary plants have enough space for permanent plants to develop; Dwarf trees and short-branched trees grow relatively slowly, accumulate nutrients well and have relatively small space. Whether it is a tree or a dwarf tree, as long as the space is reasonable. No matter whether it is a tree or a dwarf tree, it is necessary to make rational use of space and achieve ventilation and light transmission when shaping and pruning, so as to bear good fruit. The principle of "light should not be heavy" Fruit trees bear fruit on short branches and branches. In order to have enough yield and produce high-quality fruit next year, we should strictly grasp the principle of light but not heavy when pruning in winter, and try to keep as much as possible to avoid too much damage. When trimming, the number of branches can be kept at 50,000 ~ 60,000. The branches left in this way can reach more than 80 fruits after fruit thinning and fruit setting in the second year, and they are all high-quality fruits. Too little or too much branches per mu will have the disadvantages of low yield or serious phenomenon of large and small years. In short, winter plastic surgery and pruning should be scientific and reasonable, suitable for trees, not mechanical dogma, and not eager to achieve once and for all. In addition, the shears after pruning should be protected with sealing oil in time to avoid the occurrence of the next year's decay caused by frostbite of scissors. Three problems of fruit tree pruning in winter 1. There is no oblique stubble. Many fruit farmers inadvertently left oblique stubble when pruning fruit trees, and some left a small tail on the stubble, which made the stubble difficult to heal. Not only is it easy to run away from water, get caught in the rain, and be infected by rot fungi, but nutrients can't be circulated here, which eventually leads to stubble hardening and dying. In fact, it is easy to eliminate stubble. The correct way is: for small oblique stubble, just turn the scissors upside down and cut them again. For larger oblique stubble, it should be leveled with a knife, and the cortex should not be longer than the wood. The cortex should be a little shorter, hold the xylem tightly, leave a long point, and then seal it with medicine to ensure comprehensive healing. 2. Strictly seal many orchard scissors and saws only seal the top, not the edge, which leads to black water rot. After shaking and pulling back and forth, the phloem around the kerf has been damaged or cracked, and rainwater is easy to flow in and germs are easy to invade. The correct way is to seal the top first and then the periphery, and wet the edge cracks with drugs, which will heal quickly. If cracks are found in the big saw and the small saw, they should be resealed. Check the sealing condition of the incision at any time until the wound heals. 3. Protect sick scars from decay. The pathogen is a weakly parasitic fungus. After the scraped wound is burned and buried deeply, people often only apply drugs to the treated scar. When the small scar is cured, the big one will turn black and rot. The correct method: after disinfection and sterilization with drugs, the lesion scar is closed with scar healing, and the standard is not to expose xylem. Never wrap it in plastic paper for a long time, which will lead to mildew of xylem.