Steps:
Peeling: put the bird on the table, hold out the chest, separate the feathers on the chest, cut it from the depression in front of the chest keel, and cut it straight along the skin to the center of the chest keel. The length of the opening should be slightly larger than the chest width of the bird. The front end of the opening should be exposed to the neck, and then peeled off along the skin and muscles of the bird's chest with a scalpel, reaching the armpits on both sides of the chest. In the process of peeling, you should always sprinkle some gypsum powder on the inner side of skin and muscles to prevent feathers from being polluted by blood and fat. Use a scalpel to separate the crops from the skin of the bird and expose the neck. Hold the bird's head with your hands, bend the bird's neck to the ventral surface, and then cut the bird's neck, esophagus and trachea together with scissors near the chest. Then peel off the bird's back to reveal its shoulders. Continue to peel off the humerus on both wings. Remove the muscles from the humerus and separate the humerus from the bird at the shoulder joint. Continue to peel back the waist. When peeling the waist, the back and abdomen should be done at the same time. When exposing the leg, peel the skin all the way to the joint between the tarsometatarsal bones, remove the muscles on the tibia, cut off the upper end of the tibia, and separate the tibia from the bird. When the tail is peeled off, the rectal floor is cut with a knife when the cloacal hole is peeled off; When peeling the tail, the tail fat should be completely separated from the skin and cut off at the end of the tail heald with scissors. Be careful not to cut off the shaft root of the tail feather to prevent it from falling off. At this point, the body muscles and skin have been completely separated. Then peel the skin off the wings, pull out the humerus and peel it directly to the ulna. When you peel the ulna, because the root of the wing feather shaft is firmly born on the ulna, you should completely separate the wing skin from the ulna with your fingers close to the root of the feather shaft until you peel the wrist, and then remove all the muscles on the ulna and radius. When making specimens of spreading wings, the wings cannot be peeled off by the above method. Because the feather roots on the ulna are separated from the ulna, when the wings are spread, the flying feathers will droop and cannot be opened because there is no support. Therefore, when making specimens of spreading wings, the skin should be cut inside the ulna to remove the muscles attached to the ulna and radius, and then sutured along the skin incision. The wings are peeled off, and then the head is peeled off. Pull the neck first, so that the skin of the neck turns over to the head and gradually peels off, exposing the occipital bone. At this time, a taupe ear canal will appear on both sides of the occipital bone. Cut with a scalpel close to the base of the ear canal, or pull it out along the base of the ear canal with pointed tweezers. If you peel it forward, there will be dark parts on both sides, which are the eyeballs of birds. Use a scalpel to cut the eyelid limbal membrane, and use tweezers to take out the eyeball (be careful not to cut the eyeball and eyelid). At the same time, observe the color of iris when installing artificial eye, and color accordingly. Around the occipital hole, use scissors to enlarge the occipital hole and cut off the neck. At the same time, cut the muscles along the medial sides of the mandible, pull out the bird's tongue, and remove the head muscles. Use tweezers to extend into the cranial cavity from the enlarged occipital hole; Clamp the meninges and take out the brain. Then clean up the residual minced meat and fat on the bird skin. In this way, the whole stripping process is completed.
Anticorrosion: Anticorrosive pastes and powders are generally used as preservatives. The disinfection cream consists of arsenic trioxide, soap, camphor and water. According to the ratio of 5: 4: 1: 10, cut the soap into thin slices, put it in a beaker, soak it in water for several hours in proportion, then put it in a water bath pot (or aluminum pot) and heat it in water until it melts. Then, add arsenic trioxide and camphor, and then stir evenly with a glass rod to avoid arsenic trioxide precipitation. Finally, add a little glycerin and mix well. After cooling, it can be used as paste. It thickens after long use and can be diluted with warm water. Disinfecting powder is made of phenol, alum and camphor by mixing, grinding and stirring according to the ratio of1:3: 0.1. Apply antiseptic evenly to the cleaned bird skin and bones, and moisten for 10 minute.
Support: before filling, a support should be installed in the bird to support the bird. The bracket is made of wire, and the thickness of the wire depends on the size of the bird. According to the spread wing and non-spread wing, take two iron wires, one is 8 cm longer than the body length (mouth to feet) and the other is 8 cm longer than the former. One end of the two wires is aimed at the other end, and the short end is aimed at the mouth. Make a right-angle bend in the bird's chest and tighten the wire with two wire cutters. Bend the long iron wire with uneven one end to the other end, align the two iron wires at one end and bend them vertically into a right angle, so that the three ends face the same direction. The other end penetrate into that neck, passes through the nostril in the cranial cavity of the bird, is pus out, aligns two heads from the rear side between the tibia and the tarsometatarsal joint of both feet, is inserted along the heel direction, passe through the sole of the foot, and penetrates the other end onto the tail. Spread your wings, take three wires, one of which is 8 cm longer than the body length (mouth to feet), one end is aimed at the mouth, and make a right-angle bend in the bird's chest. The other two sections are 8 cm more than the wings to the feet and 4 cm more than the wings to the chest. The three wires are tightly screwed together with two wire cutters, and three heads at one end pierce the neck and wings. At the other end, three heads penetrate the tail and legs. Bracket complete.
Stuffing: Put the bird skin with bracket on the table. Fill in the filler (cotton, bamboo, etc.) first. Under the bracket (between the bracket and the back skin), followed by the tail, waist and back. When filling the back, it is necessary to keep the filler flat, and the filling thickness is about 1/3 of the chest height (living body), so that the bird specimen made will not show traces of uneven back and lead wire support. When filling the back, you should also pay attention to the filling near the neck. If there is less filling, there will be depressions, and if there is more filling, it will be raised, which will affect the beauty of the specimen. A long piece of cotton should be used in the neck and sent directly to the bird's jaw with tweezers. One is to make the bird's neck oval, and the other is to supplement the vacancy of the tongue and mandibular muscles. Both sides of the neck should be properly filled with some fillers to replace the trachea. After filling the back and neck, pull out the bird's humerus and put it above the bracket (near the bird's abdomen). The humerus is approximately parallel to the central axis of the stent. Turn the bird over after putting it, and observe whether the wings are in place and whether the padding on the back is flat. After filling, the opening of the bird body should be stitched, and the filling work is completed.
Shaping: Shaping is the most important part in the whole specimen making process. How to make the specimen lifelike, lifelike and restore its original appearance are all in the process of forming. Comb the stitched bird feathers to make them basically smooth. Then turn your head to the left, pull up your right foot, pull your foot as far as possible to its original length, hold the joint between thigh and calf (femur and tibia) with your left hand, push your foot backwards and downwards with your right hand, then push your foot upwards (joint between tibia and tarsal bone), and push your thigh forward to its original position. The left leg is operated in the same way. ? Turn over, head forward, back up, hold your waist with your left hand from above, hold your right wing with your right hand, and pull back. Pinch the joint between the humerus and ulna with the middle finger of the right hand, push the ulna forward (secondary flying feather), pinch the joint between ulna and metacarpal bone, and pull the metacarpal bone backward (primary flying feather), and arrange the feathers of shoulder feather, secondary flying feather and primary flying feather in turn. Hold the tail with your left hand, turn the body, head and abdomen, and arrange the left wing in the same way. ? After finishing the legs and wings, the overall outline of the bird's body has been formed. Hold the tail with your hands and comb the feathers all over your body to make them as smooth and flat as possible. The head, eyes and face are the most important. If you find that feathers are missing, cover them with nearby feathers as much as possible. If you find that a certain part of your body is still awkward; When it is suitable to express the required plastic surgery, one can be inserted at the chest suture and corrected from the inside out until the goal is achieved. Head remodeling is very important. In order to show the dynamic and static effect of birds, that is, the length of the neck is determined by the lead wire sticking out of the mouth. After selecting the required length, bend the lead wire into a hook, cut off the excess part, then open the bird's beak and insert the lead wire into the upper jaw for fixation. Specimens fixed with lead wire on the head have been basically shaped, then a small amount of cotton is sent from the mouth to supplement the eyes, face, chin, throat and other parts to make them even on both sides, then the eye socket is rounded and pressed on the artificial eye (or pressed on the artificial eye after drying), the selected root carving is punched, the lead wire on the foot of the specimen is inserted into the hole, then the lead wire is fixed, and the shaped specimen feathers are rearranged with tweezers. The prepared specimens should be naturally air-dried, and the parts without feathers and the exposed areas with faded colors should be coated with oil paints. Generally, the parts that need to be colored are face, crown, neck, tarsal toes, feet and so on. In addition, the horny part of the beak, the tarsal toe part of the leg and the toe part should be coated with varnish for protection.