The dry height after planting is 60 ~ 70 cm. From spring to autumn, check regularly and wipe off all buds and shoots within 30 cm from the ground at any time to ensure the normal growth of small main branches at the base.

(2) Pruning in the first year after planting

In spring, the flower buds are smeared as in the previous year. In summer, only highly competitive branches are distorted or re-cored. In the first half of September, the new shoots of each small main branch are pulled out with an opening angle of 70 ~ 80. Overlapping branches, dense branches and twin branches should be thinned out. In winter, the central main branch should be cut 50 ~ 60cm, and 2 ~ 4 small main branches should be selected under it, and a certain distance should be set aside to avoid overlapping and crowding. Each branch should be cut 40 ~ 50cm, or 2/3 of the total length. Pay attention to cutting off buds, leaving outer buds or lateral buds to adjust the spacing or orientation of small main branches.

(3) Pruning in the second year after planting

The basic cut is the same as the first year. However, in summer, it is necessary to control the competitive branches on the main branch and the central leadership trunk and the upright branches on the back of the small main branch (twisting, re-pinching or thinning). When cutting in winter, the extension branch of the central main branch is cut 40-50 cm, and the small main branch is cut 30-40 cm; If the branches are particularly thick and lush, they can also be left uncut for a long time and germinate in the next spring to promote the branches and prevent polishing. When cutting each branch, adjust the direction of the branch with cutting buds.

(4) Pruning in the third year after planting

Cutting is the same as last year. In winter, the central leaders cut about 50 cm and the small main branches cut about 40 cm.

(5) pruning in the 4th to 5th year after planting.

Spring and summer pruning is the same as usual. In autumn, branches should be pulled, with the focus on the small main branches at the upper part, and the angle is about 20 larger than the base to prevent the upper part from being too strong. Pay attention to thinning the long branches in all parts. In winter, the crown of this period will soon occupy its nutritional space, the height of the tree can reach more than 3 meters, the crown diameter is 2 ~ 3 meters, and the plants will soon be connected together. Therefore, the head of the central leader can be replaced by the weak branches at the lower part, the moderate ones can be long and not cut, and the weak ones can be cut short when the buds are full, but there are no remaining strong branches at the upper part of the crown. The growth ability of each small main branch has been alleviated, and it is no longer necessary to cut short and long, but to adopt the method of slow and long release. If the angle is small, open it to 70 ~ 80. From bottom to top, the angle of the main branch should be gradually increased to balance the potential of the upper and lower trees. In order to improve the illumination in the canopy, attention should be paid to thinning the peripheral competition branches and upright branches. As the tree is about to enter the normal fruit-bearing period, attention should be paid to loosening the excessive large branches in the middle and lower parts (such as overlapping branches, phylum branches, bifurcations, tridentations, etc.). ) in order to facilitate ventilation and light transmission and produce high-quality apples.