shàng xié?dǐ.

First of all, 绱, pronounced as shàng in pinyin, is an adjective. Secondly, 绱 shoes are the process of sewing together the finished soles and the finished uppers. It is the craft of traditional handmade cloth shoes, but In modern shoemaking technology, this process is still called 绱 shoes, so the soles of 绱 shoes are sewn together according to the traditional craft method.

Today’s urbanites are probably very unfamiliar with the manual work of soles. Most of the cloth shoes sold on the market have plastic soles or tendon soles. There are not many purely handmade cloth soles anymore. See you. But before the 1940s and 1950s, the job of shoe soles was still widely spread among the people. Because at that time, most people wore shoes that were handmade.

In that era, everyone’s life was not rich, and it was expensive for children to wear shoes. How many of them were willing to buy shoes frequently? Many families have to make their own shoes.

Insulating soles is an important process in making cloth shoes. Whether the shoes are strong or not depends first on whether the soles are well made. Carve the pasted gauze according to the shoe pattern and stack it in several layers, along the edges, to hold the soles. The job of attaching shoe soles seems easier than it is done, and it is even harder to do it well.

Traditional handicraft process:

The first step: cutting the pattern. Handmade cloth shoes adopt traditional folk production techniques and use paper to cut shoe patterns.

Second step: fill in the phyllo base. When made of 100% pure cotton, it must be neat and clean, and the number of layers must be no less than 25. There must be no wrinkles between the layers. There must be 1.5cm of room for cutting at the bottom, and it must be smooth and not out of shape.

Third step: Sole placement is also one of the most important steps in production. Keep the soles clean when stitching. The lines must be crossed and not aliased when stitching. The stitches are arranged neatly and there should be no distortion. The horizontal and vertical intervals are even and the force should be appropriate when fitting the soles. There should be no unevenness on the surface of the soles, otherwise deemed unqualified.

Step 4: Cut the bottom edge. The first is to flatten the packed soles with a hammer. This is done to soften the soles and make the shoes more comfortable and comfortable to wear. The second is trimming. Take the remaining edge of the sole and cut it off with a special tool. The cutting needs to be smooth and no obvious knife marks should be left. The third is to use high-quality cotton and spread it on the soles. The fourth is to sew the lining cloth.

The fifth step: cutting the upper. Use high-quality upper lining as lining. The fabrics are cotton, satin, silk, embroidery, etc. First, cut the lining into a pattern, use glue to lay the fabric and lining together, and then glue the reverse side with a special lining cloth. After it is air-dried, you can proceed to the next step.

Step 6: Sewing the upper. After drying, cut off the excess part of the pattern and then sew it first. Sewing is very important. The stitch length should be in accordance with international standards, and the stitches should be straight when running in a straight line. When turning, the needle should be moved along the curve and should not be twisted. The rolling fabric and welt must be pressed tightly, and there should be no slack or wrinkles when sewing the edges. Also keep the welts clean.

The seventh path: silk shoes. Using traditional handmade needlework. When sewing the upper, you must grasp the matching dimensions of the upper and the sole. The stitch length must not be too large, the stitches must not be skewed, and the left and right sides of the upper must be aligned and must not exceed the edge of the shoe.

The eighth course: last shoes. Good adult shoes must be shaped using a shoe last. When lasting shoes, the specifications of the shoe last must be consistent with the size of the shoes, so that the lasted shoes will look beautiful and fit well.

Ninth way: trimming and wiping edges. Trimming is to cut off excess threads, remove foreign matter on the upper, and then use special materials to smooth the raw edges of the soles, and then inspect them after they are air-dried.