The key to shaping is to complete the branching of each layer on the side branches and evenly match the bearing branches. Generally, branches above grade 4-6 will naturally form fruiting branches. For some vegetative branches that grow directly on the main branches, as long as the location is suitable and the light is good, they can be left as fruiting branches. If they grow strongly, they should be ringed or ringed to reduce their weak growth. Long branches that disturb trees should be removed in time.
Prune about three times a year, namely winter pruning, spring pruning and summer pruning. In winter, leaf cutting can start when the leaves fall, and early cutting is beneficial to the formation of mixed buds near the cutting mouth. The weather in the north is cold earlier, the flower buds stop differentiating earlier, and the pruning can be advanced.
First, cut the long branches in summer and autumn to avoid the branches being too long and the crown closing too fast. The incision should be at the junction of spring shoot and autumn shoot, because the upper end of spring shoot or summer shoot is easy to form mixed buds.
Another function of winter shears is to clear the garden, which can cut off the branches of pests and diseases, bury dead leaves deeply or burn them centrally, paint the trunk white, and spray 3-5 Baume lime-sulfur mixture on the crown of trees to remove the source of winter pests and diseases.
Spring pruning is carried out after spring germination and before flowering. There are five treatment methods: First, if the spring shoots and summer shoots of the fruiting mother shoots released last winter are sprouting fruiting branches, the upper summer shoots should be pruned as soon as possible, and the fruiting branches in the spring shoots should be kept. If summer shoots or autumn shoots are sprouting vegetative branches and spring shoots are sprouting fruiting branches, they should also be pruned as soon as possible. If the tender branches are weak in spring, summer and autumn, the sides of all vegetative branches should be shrunk to the spring shoots.
Second, if too many fruiting branches are extracted from the fruiting mother branches, resulting in dense and crowded fruiting branches, some fruiting branches can be loosened.
Third, for too many pruning branches in winter, it is found that the new buds are too crowded or disturb the branches in spring, and the branches can be thinned in spring, and the cuttings need to be coated.
Four, near flowering, fruit branches and vegetative branches that have not stopped growing are pitted. Generally, 6-8 leaves are left on the top flower to remove the core. Be careful not to leave too few leaves, which is not conducive to providing enough nutrition for fruit development in the future. If there are few fruits, the branches are still vigorous and will sprout in summer. After repeated denucleation of summer shoots, branches with fewer leaves in spring shoots have fewer buds when pruning in winter, which is not conducive to continuous fruiting in the next year. If the branches are naturally capped before flowering, there is no need to pick the top.
5. Spring shoots damaged by anthracnose should be cut off as soon as possible to reduce the infection of young fruits after flowering.
Summer pruning is done after flowering. First of all, before the leaves are displayed, 2-3 leaves of sprouted summer shoots are picked repeatedly to reduce nutrient consumption. Secondly, fruit thinning can be carried out after the first physiological fruit drop. Fruits generally depend on the load of branches, with 2-3 strong branches, medium branches 1-2, and weak branches 1.
Keep a certain distance between the two fruits on the same bearing branch to avoid the close extrusion after the fruit expands in the future. In order to prevent fruit drop caused by anthracnose, the amount of fruit left can be appropriately more than the planned output.
Only by doing the above pruning methods can persimmon trees achieve high and stable yield and produce greater economic benefits!