Selection of garden site

It is necessary to choose a natural environment that can meet the requirements of temperature, light, water and soil required for the growth and development of persimmon trees. In other words, the base must be in a suitable location for planting persimmon trees. district. Specifically, the temperature for producing high-quality astringent persimmons needs to be within the annual average temperature range of 11-20°C; the temperature for producing high-quality sweet persimmons needs to be within the annual average temperature range of 13-18°C, with an annual rainfall of more than 500mm and more than 1,400 hours of sunshine. There are more than 300 hours of sunshine in autumn, the soil should not be too heavy or not pure sand, and there should be no damage from disastrous weather such as strong winds or hail. In addition, the transportation is developed, and it is adjacent to or close to the main transportation lines, which facilitates the transportation of production materials and products; there are irrigation conditions; there is a relatively concentrated area for cultivation.

Selection of garden site

The quality of the garden is the key to success or failure. Although persimmons can be cultivated in suitable planting areas, whether on flat land or in mountains, in order to produce large-fruited and high-quality persimmons and improve market competitiveness, it is very necessary to select a garden site. The following aspects should be considered when choosing:

⒈Topography and topography

Do not cultivate in valleys or low-lying areas where cold air is easy to stay, and do not choose to build a garden in a wind outlet; the slope should not be too high Large, it is best to build a garden on a shallow mountain with a gentle slope of 5-15℃. Sweet persimmon likes light, and a sunny slope is preferred.

⒉Water source

Choose a place close to the water source to build the garden for irrigation during drought.

⒊Soil

Try to choose soil with a deep soil layer, rich organic matter content, good aeration, underground water level below 1 meter, good drainage, and no lack of alkali.

⒋Transportation

Choose to build a garden near a highway or trunk road.

Planting technology

⒈Planting time

There are two phases: autumn planting and spring planting. Autumn planting should be done in November-December after the seedlings have fallen leaves; spring planting should be done in March after the soil thaws. The climate in the south is warm, so the time for autumn planting can be postponed appropriately, and the time for spring planting can be appropriately advanced; the frozen soil layer in the north is thick, and if the seedlings planted in autumn are not cultivated, the above-ground parts will be easily drained, so spring planting is better, but in In spring drought areas, it is better to plant leaves after the autumn rainy season while the moisture is still there.

⒉Planting distance

Within 15 years after persimmon planting, the crown of the persimmon tree continued to expand every year, and it was basically stable after 20 years. The size of the tree crown is related to the variety and soil fertility, so the planting distance also varies. The reasonable planting distance should be: when the crown of the tree is stable, adjacent branches do not touch each other, and the whole tree has good ventilation and light transmission. In order to get more profits in the early stage, dense cultivation can be done between plants or rows. After 8-10 years of planting, the branches will be in contact and then thinned out at intervals. Generally, sweet persimmons are suitable for initial planting at 2.5×3 meters; astringent persimmons are suitable for planting at 2.5×4 meters.

⒊Planting method

⑴Dig the planting hole

The size of the planting hole should vary depending on the soil quality. Roots in fertile and loose soil are easy to grow. 0.8 meters square; in places where the soil is hard, barren or even with rocks, the root system is difficult to extend. The planting hole should be large, with a depth and width of more than 1 meter. If necessary, dig a larger hole. The planting hole should be dug before planting. For spring planting, it is best to dig it in the autumn of the first year so that the hole soil can weather in winter, which is beneficial to the growth of the tree after planting. When digging, place the inner soil and topsoil on both sides of the hole.

⑵Plant seedlings

When planting, first mix the soil with manure or compost and add a small amount of superphosphate and fill it into the hole until it is 20 cm from the surface of the hole. Put in the saplings, and vibrate the saplings while filling to make the soil flow into the gaps between the roots. After filling, build a soil ridge around the hole, and then water it fully. After the water seeps down, cover it with fine soil to prevent evaporation. The appropriate depth should be that the root neck of the seedling is flush with the ground or slightly deeper than 5-10 cm. If you find that the seedling is planted too deep during watering, you can lift the seedling slightly, add soil to the foundation immediately to protect it, and wait until the water has seeped out before planting again. Earth protection.

Measures to improve the survival rate of persimmon tree planting

⒈Select high-quality seedlings

It is best to use rootstocks that have undergone root removal treatment. The seedlings are strong and the joints heal well. The base diameter is more than 1 cm, the buds and eyes are full, the root system is more than 25 cm long, there are more than 5 lateral roots, and there are no major wounds.

⒉Moisturize after seedlings are raised

After the seedlings are graded and bundled, immediately dip them in mud mixed with rooting powder, wrap them with agricultural film, and fill the roots with wet sawdust to moisturize.

⒊Planting at the right time

Persimmon trees can be planted in spring and autumn. It is better to plant early in autumn (late September to early October) and late in spring. When the ground temperature is above 14°C, root wounds heal easily and seedlings return easily. Generally, they are planted in autumn in the south and in spring in the north. However, due to the spring drought in the north, it can also be planted with leaves during the autumn rainy season.

⒋Strictly control the quality of planting

The size of the planting hole should depend on the soil condition. The planting hole should be larger if the soil is hard, and the planting hole can be smaller if the soil is loose. However, sufficient organic fertilizer must be applied to improve the soil in the hole. When planting, smooth out the thick roots, straighten out the root system when burying, fill with solid soil, fill with sufficient water, and cover with agricultural film to protect moisture.

⒌Strengthen management

The soil moisture in the planting hole must not dry out within one year after planting. This is the key to survival and the hole must be kept moist. Protection from insects and cold is also crucial. For autumn planting in the north, soil must be built up at the base to prevent frost damage; in areas with rabbit damage, thorns should be tied for protection. Soil Management

Persimmon is a tree species with deep roots and a long life.

In order for the tree to grow normally and extend the fruiting period, the physical and chemical properties of the soil must be improved to make the soil loose, rich in organic matter, good in air permeability, strong in fertilizer and water retention, and prevent soil and water from being lost. This can increase the absorption capacity of roots, improve fertilizer efficiency, and avoid physiological obstacles.

⒈Cultivation and weeding

It can make the ground soft, rainwater can easily penetrate, increase ventilation and promote the decomposition of organic matter, which is conducive to the growth of trees. It is also convenient for various management and can reduce the places where pests and diseases lurk. However, too many times of cultivating and weeding will promote soil erosion, reduce soil humus, destroy the soil aggregate structure, and affect soil fertility. Therefore, the frequency of cultivating should not be too many, so as not to cause grassland.

⒉ Deep plow and expand the hole

As the tree age increases, before and after harvesting, combined with the application of basal fertilizer, the tree hole should be deeply plowed and expanded year by year outside the planting hole. The depth depends on the soil quality. If the soil is infertile and hard, the depth should be more than 80 cm. If the soil is deep, the depth should be about 60 cm.

Scientific fertilization

⒈Fertilization period

It should be applied before nutrients are needed most, and the advance time should include the decomposition time of fertilizer. That is to say, when quick-acting chemical fertilizers are applied, they can be applied closer to the time when fertilizer is needed; if slow-acting organic fertilizers are applied, the time is farther away; if unripe organic fertilizers are applied, they should be applied more frequently. morning. Generally, the base fertilizer is mainly organic fertilizer, which is applied before and after harvest (October-December). The top dressing is mainly chemical fertilizer. The first time is applied after physiological fruit drop, and the second time is applied during fruit expansion period. When the soil is fertile and the tree vigor is strong, the second top dressing can be omitted; on the contrary, if the soil is barren and the tree vigor is weak, top dressing is applied again when germination occurs in March-April. 60%-70% of the nitrogen fertilizer is applied in the base fertilizer, and the rest is applied as top dressing during the growth period; all phosphorus fertilizers are applied in the base fertilizer; potassium fertilizer is easy to lose, and it is a necessary fertilizer in the process of fruit enlargement, so the base fertilizer and top dressing are applied evenly As appropriate.

⒉ Fertilization method

⑴ Ring fertilization

At the edge of the crown, dig a circular trench with a depth of 30-40 cm and a width of 30-40 cm, and mix the fertilizer with The topsoil is mixed evenly and then buried. This method is mostly used on young trees.

⑵Radial trench application

With the tree trunk as the center, dig 20-40 cm deep, 30 cm wide, and 1-2 meters long (depending on the size of the crown). There are 4-8 deep and shallow radial trenches, which should be filled in after fertilizer is applied. This method is mostly used on mature trees.

(3) Furrow-shaped fertilization

This method can be used for both saplings and large trees. When labor and fertilizer are insufficient, trenches can be dug row by row or alternate rows, combined with deep plowing.

⑷Spread the whole garden

In the fruiting period, the root system of the tree has covered the whole garden. At this time, some fertilizer can be spread in the tree tray and turned into the soil to make the fertilizer Combining dark and light, the effect is better. However, it can easily lead to root growth, so it should be used in conjunction with other methods.

⒊External fertilization

External fertilization is also called foliar spraying. It is a fertilization method in which quick-acting fertilizers are mixed into a solution of a certain concentration and sprayed on the leaves.

⑴Commonly used types and concentrations:

①Nitrogen fertilizer: urea 0.3%-0.7%.

②Phosphorus fertilizer: The leaching concentration of superphosphate and potassium dihydrogen phosphate is 0.3%-3%, and ammonium phosphate is 0.1%-0.5%.

③Potassium fertilizer: Mainly 3%-10% plant ash leachate, and other concentrations such as potassium chloride, potassium sulfate and potassium phosphate are 0.5%-1%.

④ Trace elements: generally 500ppm is appropriate.

⑵Spraying method

Generally, urea is sprayed every half month during the flowering period (mid-May) and physiological fruit drop period (late May to mid-June), and some can be sprayed later. Phosphorus and potash fertilizer.

Irrigation and Moisture Conservation

Generally in northern arid areas, 100-150 kilograms of water per adult tree and 60-100 kilograms for saplings. In years with more fruit, you should water more. In years with less fruit, you can relatively reduce the frequency and amount of watering. The irrigation period depends on soil drought conditions, soil moisture equivalent and climate conditions. In general, spring is dry, with little rain and windy weather. Watering should be done before budding and before and after flowering. Watering should also be done at the same time after fertilization to promote nutrients. be absorbed and utilized promptly. There are many methods of irrigation, including grid method, furrow irrigation method, and hole irrigation method:

⒈The grid method is mostly used in flat persimmon orchards with sufficient water sources, that is, each tree is surrounded by soil One grid or a tree tray can be built. During irrigation, water can be introduced from the water channel into the grid. After the water seeps into the soil, it should be covered with soil or grass to protect the moisture. Or, when the soil is slightly dry, cultivating can be carried out to protect the moisture.

⒉ Furrow irrigation method generally uses a plow to dig a ditch near the persimmon tree, and introduces water into the ditch until it is filled. Likewise, cover with soil after the water has soaked into the soil.

⒊ Hole irrigation method: Dig several 30-40 cm square holes under the canopy, pour water into the holes, and cover with soil after the water seeps into the soil. Principles of flower and fruit management

The purpose of flower and fruit management is to produce uniform, high-quality large fruits every year, supply them to the market, and prevent the occurrence of fruiting every other year. Therefore, the principles of adjusting tree vigor and controlling yield should be followed to maintain moderate to strong tree vigor, limit yield, and achieve the goal of high and stable yields.

Regulation technology of fruit quantity

⒈Saplings promote flowering and bear fruit early

Saplings are easy to grow but difficult to flower. They can be combined with summer pruning for pulling In addition to dehorning, girdling, and girdling, 1000-1500ppm pp333 solution can be sprayed twice in late April before the new shoots grow rapidly, with an interval of 10 days each time; soil application can also be carried out in autumn or early spring before sprouting, according to The standard application of 1 gram with a dry diameter of 1 cm can reduce the growth of new shoots by 30-40% and increase the flowering rate by 20-30%. Spraying 1500ppm rare earth + 30ppm gibberellin solution during the blooming period can increase the fruit setting rate to 90.7%.

⒉Limited results during the fruiting period

When entering the fruiting period, the amount of fruit increases greatly, and the contradiction between yield and quality is very prominent. Generally speaking, the higher the yield, the worse the quality. If you want to produce high-quality large fruits, you must limit the output per unit area to achieve stable production and avoid large and small years. China's current target output per mu is 1,500 kilograms to 2,500 kilograms.

⒊Thinning buds and fruits to maintain a certain leaf-to-fruit ratio

It starts when the first flower opens on the fruiting branch and ends when the second flower opens. During this period This is the optimum period for sparse buds. When thinning the buds, except for 1-2 of the 2-3 flowers from the base upward, all the late-flowering buds on the fruiting branches will be thinned out. For saplings that have just begun to bear fruit, thin out all the flower buds on the main and side branches to allow them to grow fully. Fruit thinning can increase fruit yield, and early fruit thinning makes it easier for the remaining fruits to grow. However, due to the serious physiological fruit drop of persimmon trees, fruit thinning should be carried out in early to mid-July when the physiological fruit drop is about to end. When thinning the fruit, attention should be paid to the leaf-to-fruit ratio. One fruit with 20-25 leaves is the most suitable fruit quantity; and attention should be paid to the quality of the remaining fruit. Remove stunted small fruits, upward-bearing fruits, injured sepals, deformed fruits, fruits with diseases and insect pests, etc. Principles of persimmon tree pruning

1. It must conform to the characteristics of the persimmon tree

It should be tangible and not die, and follow the shape of the tree; balance the tree vigor, and distinguish master and slave; focus on sparseness and suppress the strong Help the weak.

⒉Suitable for site conditions

The crown of fertile land is large and scattered, while the crown of barren land is small and compact; the crown of sloping land is high and low; the backbone branches should be sparse in areas with insufficient light, and the leaf curtain layer should be Be thin.

⒊The tree is strong but not leggy

The saplings will expand their crowns and bear fruit early; the mother branches will have a certain amount of fruit; the fruit will see light but will not be burned by the sun; the fruiting part will be close to the backbone branches.

Pruning methods

⒈Winter pruning (dormant period pruning)

⑴Sapling pruning

Saplings grow vigorously and stop growing. Late, the top advantage is strong, the branch angle is small, the new shoots are long, the layers are obvious, the hidden buds have strong germination ability, and 2-3 shoots can occur after topping the new shoots. Pruning principles: cultivate the skeleton, open the angle, and adjust the tree shape. And timely topping to promote the growth and fruiting of the mother branches; proper pruning to promote transformation and lay a solid foundation for early high yield. When pruning, select suitable branches as main branches and side branches according to the requirements of shaping. Thin out the branches in the same direction so that the extension heads of the backbone branches at all levels are in a dominant position. For other branches that do not hinder the growth of extended branches, thin out some that are too dense and retract those that are too long appropriately.

⑵Pruning of fruit-bearing trees

After the persimmon tree takes shape. Gradually entering the fruiting period, the tree vigor becomes stable, the yield increases, and the outward expansion of the tree body becomes slower and slower. As the number of trees increases, the inner branches gradually weaken and even die due to shade, and the fruiting parts move outward.

Pruning principles: Pay attention to ventilation and light transmission, strengthen the renewal of fruiting branches, and keep the fruiting parts as close to the backbone branches as possible.

Pruning the extension heads of main and side branches: The extension branches are in the leadership position of the main branches or side branches, and their subordinate relationship with other branches should be clear, and their extension direction should be consistent with the extension direction of the main and side branches, so that The skeleton is straight and nutrients can be transported quickly. If the extension branch is strong, cut it short above 1/3 of the full bud; if the main side branch is too strong, remove the strong one and replace it with a weak one; if the extension head is too weak, remove the weak one and keep the strong one; if the extension head is skewed horizontally, cut it again. Leave inner buds on the mouth buds to reduce curvature; if the main and side branches are too open, remove them flat and leave them at an angle; if the branch angle is too small, remove them straight and leave them at an oblique opening angle. Pruning of fruiting branch groups and fruiting mother branches: Whether the fruiting branch group is properly configured on the backbone branches is the key to high yield. When arranged, the small ones at the top and the large ones at the base make the main branches and side branches appear triangular both horizontally and vertically. The growth amount of the fruiting branch groups growing in different parts is different. The upper ones are too strong and the lower ones are too weak. The growth of the fruiting branch groups slightly upward is ideal.

The arrangement of the fruiting branch groups on the main and side should be staggered left and right, and updated every 4-5 years. Pruning of developing branches: Thin out the thin and weak branches in the inner chamber or the lower part of the large branches; for developing branches with 2-3 secondary shoots, the insufficient parts should be cut off; developing branches with a length of 20-45 cm are most likely to form fruiting mother branches. Therefore, it should be properly handled according to the specific situation. Generally, one-third can be cut off if it is too long, one-third can be cut off if it is too short, and some of it can be thinned out if it is too dense.

⒉ Summer pruning (pruning during the growth period)

⑴ Bud wiping

A large number of hidden buds will sprout near the saw cut of the branch or in the arched part, 5-7 Before the new shoots become lignified, wipe off the upward or downward shoots, leaving the lower shoots to cultivate into mother branches.

⑵Topping long branches

Generally, all branches should be thinned out, and those used to fill gaps should be topping at 30-40 cm to promote branch growth.

⑶ Pulling branches

Highly grafted trees grow vigorously and have upright branches, which can easily cause the crown to close, affecting shaping and early yield. Pulling branches can relax the tree, expand the crown, change the direction of the branches, and facilitate shaping. Whether you are cultivating main branches or side branches, when the direction of the new shoots is appropriate and the angle is small, in June, before the new shoots become lignified, pull the branches according to the ideal angle and direction. In July and August, wait until the new shoots grow to a certain length, and then press Pull the branch once at the ideal angle to make the branch grow as desired. You can also bend the branches with E-shaped wire clips before lignification to achieve a desired angle.

⑷Tip pruning

The growth of branches stops late and the apex is not full. From late August to early September, cut off the unfulfilled part of the apex of vigorous branches to reduce nutrient consumption, promote the development of lower buds or form fruiting line mother branches, and also lay the foundation for increasing the number of branches next year.

⑸Girdling

Girdling the main trunk of saplings during the flowering period (May) can lead to early fruiting, and the fruit setting rate of those that have already produced fruit can also be increased. The peeling width is positively related to the main thickness. Generally, the peeling width is about 0.5 cm. Ring, spiral, offset two semi-circles and other forms are acceptable. The harvesting period of persimmons varies according to requirements. Soft persimmons for fresh eating should be harvested when the peel turns from yellow to red; crisp persimmons for fresh eating should be harvested slightly earlier when the peel turns yellow; for cake making, the peel tips should turn red before the flesh softens. Harvesting makes it easy to peel, the cake making rate is high, and the quality of the persimmons made is also good. Persimmon fruits for storage should be harvested in advance when the green color on the fruit surface has faded and the flesh is hard and crisp.

When astringent persimmons are just picked, the fruits contain a large amount of soluble tannins, which have a strong astringency and are inedible. It must be artificially deastringent before it can be sold. To remove astringency from crispy persimmons, immerse the persimmon fruits in the cylinder with warm water at 40℃-50℃ or 1:10 lime water, and then seal the mouth of the cylinder to keep it warm. The astringency can be removed in 1-3 days. There are various ways to remove astringency from soft persimmons, such as smoking method, mixed leaves or pear fruit method, etc. At present, the most convenient and effective method to remove astringency is to use ethephon. Soak the entire basket of picked astringent persimmons with an ethephon solution of 400 parts per million to 500 parts per million (400PPm-500PPm) for 0.5-1 minute, or spray the fruit surface, and then place it indoors. After 3-5 days, the persimmon fruit will change color and become soft. This method can be processed in batches according to sales requirements. In addition, spray 75% alcohol or white wine on absorbent paper spread on the fruit surface, then place it in a plastic bag and seal it for 4-5 days, which can also remove astringency and delay softening.

The temperature in the Yangtze-Huaihe River Basin during the ripening period of persimmon is still high, making it unsuitable for long-term storage. If you choose to store it in a polyethylene bag with a silicon window and add 0.6 ml of sec-butylamine for preservation and keep the room temperature at 10℃-12℃, the persimmons can be stored for more than 50 days and the flavor of the persimmons will be normal. In order to delay the softening of persimmon fruits after removing astringency, the canopy can be sprayed with a gibberellin solution at a concentration of 200 parts per million (200 ppm) 3 days before harvest; or the fruit can be soaked with persimmon fresh chemicals after harvest. Let dry and seal.

Ripe persimmon fruits are rich in sugar, generally up to 14%-26%. Some defective fruits and crumbled fruits are most suitable for fermentation and wine making to increase the economic value. The method is to wash the persimmons with water and immerse them in warm water at 40°C for 24 hours to remove the astringency. Then remove the persimmon stems, crush the persimmon fruit, mash it, and pour it into the fermentation tank. Be careful to leave a 25%-30% gap to prevent the fermentation liquid from expanding and overflowing during fermentation. Stir in 5% wine yeast and 0.1% pectinase, stir thoroughly, and conduct main fermentation at 26°C-28°C. Stir up and down once a day to make the temperature of the fermentation liquid consistent and the fermentation uniform. After 5-7 days, clear water appears in the upper part and the wine smell is very strong. Press and filter to obtain fermented persimmon wine. The fermented wine is aged for half a year, post-fermented, and impurities are precipitated. After clarification and filtration, it can be bottled.